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Oil Preference?

I think I’m just going to use the pennzoil thatbthey useatthe dealer. I mean, conventional oil is way better nowadays than before. I’m sure it can stand 5,000 miles. I plan to change every 5,000 miles anyway. And it’s synthetic blend. So I’m sure even more it can stand 5,000 miles.
 
Amsoil, Wouldn't use any other. For a 60k truck. I'm gonna put the best oil there is in it.
Which Amsoil specifically? I’m going to go this route as well. That’s why I’m asking.
 
Also, do you guys use the mopar oil filter or another type? I see in the manual that the mopar is recommended. If we use another type of filter, will it be a problem? As in warranty being voided?
 
Read some oil filter studies after that you won’t use any Mopar filters and never a Fram. In almost all filter studies the M-1 and the RP filters are at the very top. That doesn’t mean the next six aren’t good filters too.
 
Read some oil filter studies after that you won’t use any Mopar filters and never a Fram. In almost all filter studies the M-1 and the RP filters are at the very top. That doesn’t mean the next six aren’t good filters too.

I get three free changes from the dealer, which includes Pennzoil Platinum and Mopar filter. I'm getting changed on Monday, at about 2,500 miles. After the free ones, I am likely going Redline and an M1 or RP filter. I figure the Mopar filter will be ok initially at the 5k intervals I plan on changing at.
 
^^^ good info. Thank you for that link. We will all beat up this topic and others like it. The bottom line is any higher end oil and filter that is oem spec approved will do great for our trucks. It’s what the individual plans on for maintenance will answer the call for what they may use.
Reality is most to all of us here, will have no issues with what ever we may use related to what oil and filter. Why? Because we are focused on doing the best for our trucks and being mindful of what’s going on with it.

The real world tests are out there every day, people not like us that are way continuously late on oil change, over heated from a cooling system issue,Ect , Ect.
Been around long enough and seen a lot. This aspect with some bulk conventional oil and 2$ filters all its life and real world added in to the mix. Still hitting 150-200k miles on engines with no issues related to oil and/or filter other then neglected or other unforeseen mechanical issues. Just my 2cents
 
Brings back memories of the ol Datsun we had growing up. Odometer stopped working at around 200k miles. Speedometer broke. Driver door handle broke. Mirror. Clutch was finicky as all hell. But that engine had to run for over 300k before we finally upgraded it..to a Toyota that had 175k on it when we bought it!

Mobil1 seems like a nice choice. There is some scuttlebutt that it isn't a true synthetic, but that might be just another internet rumor

I love the word scuttlebutt. Don't know why.

That is all.





Almost. If you have an extended warranty, I would make sure the oil you choose meets the requirements of the engine in your truck. If it doesn't meet MS-6395 you could be running the risk of having them deny engine related warranty claims. I'm sure they will comb through maintenance records with a fine toothed comb to try and find ways to deny liability.

In my head I see the following scenario play out:

"We're really sorry, but you used the wrong oil in your truck. We think that caused the bearing issue that destroyed your bottom end. Good luck!"
 
In all of my previous daily drivers I would use whatever is on sale at Walmart, Autozone, etc. but, none of them were under warranty. In my wife's 2017 Hyundai Tucson Sport, and now my Ram, they get the dealer treatment since they are under warranty. Easier for me to keep records that way and not have to worry about it. I couldn't care less what the dealer puts in them as I won't own them after the warranty expires.

I do enough oil changes in my Camaro throughout the nice months anyway. I get tired of having to drop the used oil off too. I have a few 5 gallon buckets full of oil I need to get rid of still...
 
I love the word scuttlebutt. Don't know why.

That is all.





Almost. If you have an extended warranty, I would make sure the oil you choose meets the requirements of the engine in your truck. If it doesn't meet MS-6395 you could be running the risk of having them deny engine related warranty claims. I'm sure they will comb through maintenance records with a fine toothed comb to try and find ways to deny liability.

In my head I see the following scenario play out:

"We're really sorry, but you used the wrong oil in your truck. We think that caused the bearing issue that destroyed your bottom end. Good luck!"

As long as you are using an API certified oil and the correct SAE rating, you are within the requirements of the owners manual, as it says if it doesn't have those two things then it "should not be used." So if you are throwing an API certified oil and correct SAE rating in, I highly doubt they have any leg to stand on at all in attempting to tie engine failure to your oil choice.

It then gives a recommendation (not a requirement) of "For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends
engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395."

I would generally follow that recommendation as well. But if you are considering some of the other so-called "premium" oils out there, most will certainly already fall into meeting this recommendation. Redline, for example, notes that it is a suitable replacement for Mopar MS-6395L, M under OEM compatibility.

I also plan on having my dealer put it in for me still. I spoke with the service dealer for 30 minutes or more about oil, lol. He gave me his opinion on all the oils and never once suggested it would cause a warranty issue. I'd consider using PUP as well, but I'd have to buy it and bring it in as well.
 
As long as you are using an API certified oil and the correct SAE rating, you are within the requirements of the owners manual, as it says if it doesn't have those two things then it "should not be used." So if you are throwing an API certified oil and correct SAE rating in, I highly doubt they have any leg to stand on at all in attempting to tie engine failure to your oil choice.

It then gives a recommendation (not a requirement) of "For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends
engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395."

I would generally follow that recommendation as well. But if you are considering some of the other so-called "premium" oils out there, most will certainly already fall into meeting this recommendation. Redline, for example, notes that it is a suitable replacement for Mopar MS-6395L, M under OEM compatibility.

I also plan on having my dealer put it in for me still. I spoke with the service dealer for 30 minutes or more about oil, lol. He gave me his opinion on all the oils and never once suggested it would cause a warranty issue. I'd consider using PUP as well, but I'd have to buy it and bring it in as well.

Oh sure, go ahead and give a complete and thorough reply why don't you. ;)
 
I also plan on having my dealer put it in for me still. I spoke with the service dealer for 30 minutes or more about oil, lol. He gave me his opinion on all the oils and never once suggested it would cause a warranty issue. I'd consider using PUP as well, but I'd have to buy it and bring it in as well.
I thought about this as well. It would cost me just over $40 to supply the oil (PUP) and filter (M1 EP). But...then I'd have to leave the garage. :)
 
Read some oil filter studies after that you won’t use any Mopar filters and never a Fram. In almost all filter studies the M-1 and the RP filters are at the very top. That doesn’t mean the next six aren’t good filters too.
I always used Fram filters and never ad any problems with Castrol oil
 

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