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Limitations on mods, etorque vs non?

Brunzca

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Tire are more important then drivetrain on regular roads in the United States.
You are taking a very particular scenario and twisting what I said.

Off-roading performance has nothing to do with a vehicle that is sold for on road usage for performance.
You can tweak your truck for off-roading but my above statement is still correct for the intended use of vehicles.


What does 4x2 have to do with a lift???

Maybe he likes the way it looks.

correct. I love the way my truck looks now. but, I may go with a smaller lift on My next truck, like I said, 4” maybe. Zone/BDS have a great kit. The 7/4 Maxtrac lift on my 2wd still provides a great ride (w/ Fox coilovers And shocks).
I may have found a 22 Laramie, 4x4, non-etorque, with basically everything I want.
 

Darksteel165

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I’m not twisting anything. You were commenting on Eighty and his ice event and his driveway, and your experience with snow covered roads. And you said tires are more important than drivetrain.

You commented specifically on “not getting stuck”. Not getting stuck ( snow, ice, mud, water) is more dependent on drivetrain than tires. Much better off not getting stuck, and getting unstuck with 4WD or AWD. Witnessed it many times, like I said.

Now you say regular roads…
No one here is talking about driving off-roads.
The OP is talking about performance mods to a possible new truck.
I don't know where you keep getting offroad from here.

Not getting stuck on snow or ice IS more depending on tires then drivetrain.
4WD will do you nothing for you with bad tires, all 4 of your tires will spin.

Your comments might be valid on another thread, but it means nothing to OP for what he is looking for.
 

Darksteel165

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correct. I love the way my truck looks now. but, I may go with a smaller lift on My next truck, like I said, 4” maybe. Zone/BDS have a great kit. The 7/4 Maxtrac lift on my 2wd still provides a great ride (w/ Fox coilovers And shocks).
I may have found a 22 Laramie, 4x4, non-etorque, with basically everything I want.
I highly recommend you find a GT truck and test drive it.
You might fall in love with the shifters as it has essentially manual shifting.
The non-GT trucks can't shift manually, only set a maximum allowed gear.
You get a lot more performance control out of the GT because of it.
 

Brunzca

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I highly recommend you find a GT truck and test drive it.
You might fall in love with the shifters as it has essentially manual shifting.
The non-GT trucks can't shift manually, only set a maximum allowed gear.
You get a lot more performance control out of the GT because of it.
I looked quite a bit, but don’t see any 22’s or 23’s within 250miles of me, per the ram site. I’ll keep looking though, would love to check one out, if I can find it.
 

Ramroo

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No one here is talking about driving off-roads.
The OP is talking about performance mods to a possible new truck.
I don't know where you keep getting offroad from here.

Not getting stuck on snow or ice IS more depending on tires then drivetrain.
4WD will do you nothing for you with bad tires, all 4 of your tires will spin.

Your comments might be valid on another thread, but it means nothing to OP for what he is looking for.

You talked about off roading, but should not have. I’m just calling BS when I see it.

My suggestion to you is never get off the road in your truck.

You actually said earlier about “ properly off roading with a 2WD and a winch“ and the winch needing to attach to something and 2 wheels spinning.

Most trucks with 2WD have only 1 wheel that spins (most 2WD vehicles do not come with limited slip diffs) and YES YES you are correct - a winch does need to attach to something. But Ain’t nothing “properly” about a 2WD off roading.

And no, 4 wheels spinning is better than 1, any day on ice or snow when stuck. I don’t care what kind of tire you have on your 1 spinning wheel.
Put it in a hole or incline … think again.

I don’t care if your stuck on your “regular road” or stuck on the back 40. Same principles apply.
 

Darksteel165

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You talked about off roading, but should not have. I’m just calling BS when I see it.

My suggestion to you is never get off the road in your truck.

You actually said earlier about “ properly off roading with a 2WD and a winch“ and the winch needing to attach to something and 2 wheels spinning.

Most trucks with 2WD have only 1 wheel that spins (most 2WD vehicles do not come with limited slip diffs) and YES YES you are correct - a winch does need to attach to something. But Ain’t nothing “properly” about a 2WD off roading.

And no, 4 wheels spinning is better than 1, any day on ice or snow when stuck. I don’t care what kind of tire you have on your 1 spinning wheel.
Put it in a hole or incline … think again.

I don’t care if your stuck on your “regular road” or stuck on the back 40. Same principles apply.
I never talked about offroading.
You must be reading someone else's posts. No one talked about off-roading here except for you.
Snow on some ones driveway (or road) is not off-roading.
 

Ramroo

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I never talked about offroading.
You must be reading someone else's posts. No one talked about off-roading here except for you.
Snow on some ones driveway (or road) is not off-roading.

😑 I think we might be married.
 

Darksteel165

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😑 I think we might be married.
I just reread every post I had on this thread.
The only time I said off-road was comparing a Laramie to a Rebel. A Rebel comes with AT tires and a Laramie with all-seasons, that you could run in the summer, and switch to snow tires if you lived up north (but not for OP since he is in FL).

Rebel
1673749685483.png

Laramie
1673749753390.png
If OP doesn't plan on driving off-road would be better served with a Laramie GT, if OP wants to go off-roading then could do a Rebel GT.
I think your spouse might have better memory then you if this is any way to gauge it.
 

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Ramroo

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Not once did I talk about going off-road, you are making that assumption which would contradict everything I posted.

You can't properly go off-road with 2wd unless you have a winch and have something to attach it to everything you get stuck and there's nothing you can do because half of your wheels don't move.

As far as traction is concerned tires are a much bigger impact then drivetrain. Obviously you should of been able to figure out what I meant because I reference snow tires and you wouldn't use snow tires to go off-roading as they are not nearly as durable and the mattery is way softer when compared against any other tire type such as all-seasons or AT tires.

Also the problem with your friends getting stuck after it rains, sounds like lack of knowing how to drive up a driveway or again, using the incorrect tires.
AT tires are meant to drive through mud, not summer or all-season tires or snow as it's a completely differnet tread and texture of tire... Again showing how important the right tire for the right kind of driving is.

You talked about “properly go off road with a 2WD” in this post. Is this not you?

I was going to leave it alone with a little light humor.

You were stating something that I think is simply not true ( tires are more important than drive train ) and I was giving real world examples about, how to not get stuck and disproving you with my experience and examples. You were specifically talking about ”not getting stuck”.
Not getting stuck applies to on road or off road.
 

Darksteel165

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You talked about “properly go off road with a 2WD” in this post. Is this not you?

I was going to leave it alone with a little light humor.

You were stating something that I think is simply not true ( tires are more important than drive train ) and I was giving real world examples about, how to not get stuck and disproving you with my experience and examples. You were specifically talking about ”not getting stuck”.
Not getting stuck applies to on road or off road.
You don't need 4wd to not get stuck on road.
Fwd or rwd with proper tires will not get you stuck on a snowy road.

The only time I talked about offroading was what I quoted and responding to you quoting and warping what I am saying.

You might want to do some research and come back on how tires and rubber compounds work since it seems you don't understand tires and think it doesn't matter.
 

Ramroo

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You don't need 4wd to not get stuck on road.
Fwd or rwd with proper tires will not get you stuck on a snowy road.

The only time I talked about offroading was what I quoted and responding to you quoting and warping what I am saying.

You might want to do some research and come back on how tires and rubber compounds work since it seems you don't understand tires and think it doesn't matter.
 

Ramroo

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I never, ever said tires are not important. I say DRIVETRAIN is MOOOOOOORE Important that TIRES when talking about NOT GETTING STUCK or UNSTUCK. You said the opposite. I think we may have to disagree, but I have seen your theory proven wrong many many times.

Good and proper rated tires are better than bad tires on any type of vehicle in all situations. Can’t make a 2WD better that 4WD when stuck!

No research needed about tires or rubber compounds, that won’t help pull my hard headed poor friends with 2WD trucks “with new mud tires” up the hill.
 

joshfishtail

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I'd love to join in on all of your arguments, but instead I'm going to address OPs question :ROFLMAO:

I have a 2021 5.7 with e-torque and have seen zero limitations of bolt on performance parts due to e-torque. I have the following -
  • Vararam Cold Air Intake
  • MBRP Exhaust
  • 87mm Ported Throttle Body
  • 1-5/8" Shorty Headers
  • Custom Tuning through Jay Greene
I've basically exhausted all of my options at this point besides cam/supercharging. From the research I've done there are several supercharger options as well that work with e-torque.

In summary - Don't intentionally avoid an e-torque Ram due to concerns about aftermarket part compatibility. Any limitations that exist I haven't found yet.
 

Bt10

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I'd love to join in on all of your arguments, but instead I'm going to address OPs question :ROFLMAO:

I have a 2021 5.7 with e-torque and have seen zero limitations of bolt on performance parts due to e-torque. I have the following -
  • Vararam Cold Air Intake
  • MBRP Exhaust
  • 87mm Ported Throttle Body
  • 1-5/8" Shorty Headers
  • Custom Tuning through Jay Greene
I've basically exhausted all of my options at this point besides cam/supercharging. From the research I've done there are several supercharger options as well that work with e-torque.

In summary - Don't intentionally avoid an e-torque Ram due to concerns about aftermarket part compatibility. Any limitations that exist I haven't found yet.
Looks good from a bolt on perspective. What supercharger systems do you remember that fit, besides centrifugal? Has anyone assembled a kit with a passenger side drive twin screw? Does the 6.4 intake fit?

Has anyone removed and reflashed back to a standard alternator? leaving or removing the support systems in place?
 

Ohsobad

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I'd love to join in on all of your arguments, but instead I'm going to address OPs question :ROFLMAO:

I have a 2021 5.7 with e-torque and have seen zero limitations of bolt on performance parts due to e-torque. I have the following -
  • Vararam Cold Air Intake
  • MBRP Exhaust
  • 87mm Ported Throttle Body
  • 1-5/8" Shorty Headers
  • Custom Tuning through Jay Greene
I've basically exhausted all of my options at this point besides cam/supercharging. From the research I've done there are several supercharger options as well that work with e-torque.

In summary - Don't intentionally avoid an e-torque Ram due to concerns about aftermarket part compatibility. Any limitations that exist I haven't found yet.
Hey Josh, have you noticed any gains with all that you have, fuel, pep?
 

joshfishtail

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Hey Josh, have you noticed any gains with all that you have, fuel, pep?
I started with just intake and exhaust and don't think I noticed too much of a difference.

Getting a custom tune was the game changer that is a day and night difference in power and overall driving feel. The firm and quick shifts of the transmission tune are amazing in addition to the extra power. When I switch the ECU back to my stock one to take it in for service it feels like a complete dog in comparison.

I think a small seat of the pants difference from the throttle body and headers, but I don't have a Dragy or other timer to actually compare 0-60 times or anything.

For the biggest noticeable power gain the custom tune is the way to go.
 

joshfishtail

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Looks good from a bolt on perspective. What supercharger systems do you remember that fit, besides centrifugal? Has anyone assembled a kit with a passenger side drive twin screw? Does the 6.4 intake fit?

Has anyone removed and reflashed back to a standard alternator? leaving or removing the support systems in place?
Everything that I have looked into have been centrifugal, either Procharger or Ripp.
 

RebelliousGt

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I started with just intake and exhaust and don't think I noticed too much of a difference.

Getting a custom tune was the game changer that is a day and night difference in power and overall driving feel. The firm and quick shifts of the transmission tune are amazing in addition to the extra power. When I switch the ECU back to my stock one to take it in for service it feels like a complete dog in comparison.

I think a small seat of the pants difference from the throttle body and headers, but I don't have a Dragy or other timer to actually compare 0-60 times or anything.

For the biggest noticeable power gain the custom tune is the way to go.
Does the dealership flag your truck for a P1400 code when you go in? Because switching back to the stock ECU won’t hide the fact that you have a custom tune.
 

Darksteel165

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Does the dealership flag your truck for a P1400 code when you go in? Because switching back to the stock ECU won’t hide the fact that you have a custom tune.
No such code.
Do you have a picture showing that on a 2019+ Ram?
I have a tune and an unlocked unit and it clearly shows it as the original non-aftermarket unit.
 

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