Ok maybe I missed something but how do the lights come on?? There not tapped into the reverse lights right? Is there a switch??
For me it was the ease of just plugging into the Curt, instead of cutting wires. Much cleaner solution in my opinion, and for 8 bucks, a no brainer.I just ordered my LPR. The LPR15 code worked for 15% off. Thanks to you all that have added to this pool of knowledge!
Now, I have some questions:
- I am totally on board with wanting to keep my mods where they can be removed without a trace. So, the link to the Curt T-adapter is awesome. But, why are y'all spending more money on a 5-wire pigtail? Why not just use the Posi-taps that are included with the LPR to tap into the Curt adapter directly? Why care about modding the Curt adapter? Or, if you don't like Posi-taps, why not just cut the 5-pin connector off and connect directly to the wires that go into that connector?
I'm having a REALLY hard time imagining myself ever having ANY other use for the Curt adapter that would make me regret tapping into it or cutting the 5-pin off and connecting the LPR wire directly to it. I mean, it's only $29. Am I really going to spend another $8 on another part just to save from modding the $29 part?
- Has anybody considered putting 2 of the LPRs on? One at the top of the plate and one at the bottom? Is the one at the top really bright enough that you truly would have no interest in a second one?
I'm particularly wondering about a situation of backing up at night with the tailgate down. Will the tailgate block some of the light such that a second strip at the bottom of the plate might be desirable for throwing a bit more light out in an upward direction?
- I have seen some really cool butt connectors before that are weatherproof and have solder built into the middle. You put a wire in from each end and then hit it with a heat gun and the solder melts to make the electrical connection and the outer jacket shrinks, to make it all waterproof. But, now I cannot remember what they are called. Before I spend a bunch of time trying to figure out the right search terms, do any of y'all know off the top of your head what I'm talking about and where I can order some?
Thanks!!
- I have seen some really cool butt connectors before that are weatherproof and have solder built into the middle. You put a wire in from each end and then hit it with a heat gun and the solder melts to make the electrical connection and the outer jacket shrinks, to make it all waterproof. But, now I cannot remember what they are called. Before I spend a bunch of time trying to figure out the right search terms, do any of y'all know off the top of your head what I'm talking about and where I can order some?
Thanks!!
Look at my pics. That’s exactly what I’ve used for this project.Okay, never mind on this. I found what I was looking for on the first try.
Amazon.com: NRC&XRC 50PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice: Sports & Outdoors
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I've been looking for an excuse to buy some of these, and I think this is it.
For me it was the ease of just plugging into the Curt, instead of cutting wires. Much cleaner solution in my opinion, and for 8 bucks, a no brainer.
Regarding the two LPRs, I can’t see needling any more than one. For me at least, if I ever back up with the tailgate down, the stock lights will have to do.
Cheers,
Post or PM if you run into any issues. Doubt it as it’s a pretty straightforward mod.Was bummed to find out that I couldn't upgrade my OEM LED reverse lights but this looks like this will solve that problem. Ordered all of the parts. I will provide an update when installed. Thanks for everyone that has taken the time to share this information!
I don't think anyone has done that, so you'll be the first. Let us know how it turns out.I'm planning on running mine thru a relay so I can have it on it's own switch and come on automatically with the reverse lights. I'll probably put diodes inline so it when one (own switch or reverse power) is activated it doesn't back feed anything. I doubt I'd have any problems but just in case. Have any of you set yours up this way?
Nice job.And another 30 minutes or so futzing around at the back and underneath of my truck and I have working lights with, I think, a nice, fairly tidy job of the wiring. Woohoo!!!
Question for those that have done this before: The wires from the LPR light itself have a small grommet on them. I didn't really see any way to utilize that. No hole in the bumper to run the wires through. I just ran them up and over the top of the bumper to the back side. Anybody that looks at the license plate area closely will see the wires coming out of the top right corner from behind the plate and going over the bumper. It would be nice if the wires were totally 100% hidden, but I didn't see a way to do that - other than possibly drilling a hole through the bumper behind the license plate.
Is there a better way to do that?
Side note: Now that I see how it all goes together, I wish I had cut the power cord lead that came with the LPR light. It must be 8' long. The ends were already stripped, so I just used it like it came. But, I could have cut it to be more like 6" and it would have been perfect. If I ever have to take it back off for any reason, maybe I'll redo it like that. Have one simple coil of wiring under there instead of 8' coiled up....
View attachment 30368
And another 30 minutes or so futzing around at the back and underneath of my truck and I have working lights with, I think, a nice, fairly tidy job of the wiring
Question for those that have done this before: The wires from the LPR light itself have a small grommet on them. I didn't really see any way to utilize that. No hole in the bumper to run the wires through. I just ran them up and over the top of the bumper to the back side. Anybody that looks at the license plate area closely will see the wires coming out of the top right corner from behind the plate and going over the bumper. It would be nice if the wires were totally 100% hidden, but I didn't see a way to do that - other than possibly drilling a hole through the bumper behind the license plate.
Is there a better way to do that?
Side note: Now that I see how it all goes together, I wish I had cut the power cord lead that came with the LPR light. It must be 8' long. The ends were already stripped, so I just used it like it came. But, I could have cut it to be more like 6" and it would have been perfect. If I ever have to take it back off for any reason, maybe I'll redo it like that. Have one simple coil of wiring under there instead of 8' coiled up....
View attachment 30368