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License Plate Reverse light

Repsol69

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Ok maybe I missed something but how do the lights come on?? There not tapped into the reverse lights right? Is there a switch??


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cra1g

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Ok maybe I missed something but how do the lights come on?? There not tapped into the reverse lights right? Is there a switch??

Someone has to ride in the bed and hook up the wires when you want light. From what I read in the first post, I think his name is Curt.
 
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BSea

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Anyone tried these?

https://www.vleds.com/shop-application/reverse-back-up/7440-led/7440-6-ho-c.html

I know the VLEDS site doesn't include 2019 models yet, but thought these might be a good alternative to the method the OP used. I used a similar bulb on my 2016 Sierra, and it was a big improvement over the stock bulb. However, I do like the method the OP used.(y)

EDIT:
OOOOPS. I saw in another post that the stock lights can't be replaced. I don't know why though. I admit that I haven't looked.
 
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StuartV

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I just ordered my LPR. The LPR15 code worked for 15% off. Thanks to you all that have added to this pool of knowledge!

Now, I have some questions:

- I am totally on board with wanting to keep my mods where they can be removed without a trace. So, the link to the Curt T-adapter is awesome. But, why are y'all spending more money on a 5-wire pigtail? Why not just use the Posi-taps that are included with the LPR to tap into the Curt adapter directly? Why care about modding the Curt adapter? Or, if you don't like Posi-taps, why not just cut the 5-pin connector off and connect directly to the wires that go into that connector?

I'm having a REALLY hard time imagining myself ever having ANY other use for the Curt adapter that would make me regret tapping into it or cutting the 5-pin off and connecting the LPR wire directly to it. I mean, it's only $29. Am I really going to spend another $8 on another part just to save from modding the $29 part?

- Has anybody considered putting 2 of the LPRs on? One at the top of the plate and one at the bottom? Is the one at the top really bright enough that you truly would have no interest in a second one?

I'm particularly wondering about a situation of backing up at night with the tailgate down. Will the tailgate block some of the light such that a second strip at the bottom of the plate might be desirable for throwing a bit more light out in an upward direction?

- I have seen some really cool butt connectors before that are weatherproof and have solder built into the middle. You put a wire in from each end and then hit it with a heat gun and the solder melts to make the electrical connection and the outer jacket shrinks, to make it all waterproof. But, now I cannot remember what they are called. Before I spend a bunch of time trying to figure out the right search terms, do any of y'all know off the top of your head what I'm talking about and where I can order some?

Thanks!!
 

StuartV

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Oh, and one last question: If I go with cutting the 5-wire connector off of the Curt harness and then connecting wires directly, is it feasible that I could actually cut those wires WAY back? Just from the pictures, it looks like I might could cut a good 12 inches off of that wiring from the T.
 

Neurobit

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I just ordered my LPR. The LPR15 code worked for 15% off. Thanks to you all that have added to this pool of knowledge!

Now, I have some questions:

- I am totally on board with wanting to keep my mods where they can be removed without a trace. So, the link to the Curt T-adapter is awesome. But, why are y'all spending more money on a 5-wire pigtail? Why not just use the Posi-taps that are included with the LPR to tap into the Curt adapter directly? Why care about modding the Curt adapter? Or, if you don't like Posi-taps, why not just cut the 5-pin connector off and connect directly to the wires that go into that connector?

I'm having a REALLY hard time imagining myself ever having ANY other use for the Curt adapter that would make me regret tapping into it or cutting the 5-pin off and connecting the LPR wire directly to it. I mean, it's only $29. Am I really going to spend another $8 on another part just to save from modding the $29 part?

- Has anybody considered putting 2 of the LPRs on? One at the top of the plate and one at the bottom? Is the one at the top really bright enough that you truly would have no interest in a second one?

I'm particularly wondering about a situation of backing up at night with the tailgate down. Will the tailgate block some of the light such that a second strip at the bottom of the plate might be desirable for throwing a bit more light out in an upward direction?

- I have seen some really cool butt connectors before that are weatherproof and have solder built into the middle. You put a wire in from each end and then hit it with a heat gun and the solder melts to make the electrical connection and the outer jacket shrinks, to make it all waterproof. But, now I cannot remember what they are called. Before I spend a bunch of time trying to figure out the right search terms, do any of y'all know off the top of your head what I'm talking about and where I can order some?

Thanks!!
For me it was the ease of just plugging into the Curt, instead of cutting wires. Much cleaner solution in my opinion, and for 8 bucks, a no brainer.

Regarding the two LPRs, I can’t see needling any more than one. For me at least, if I ever back up with the tailgate down, the stock lights will have to do.

Cheers,
 

StuartV

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- I have seen some really cool butt connectors before that are weatherproof and have solder built into the middle. You put a wire in from each end and then hit it with a heat gun and the solder melts to make the electrical connection and the outer jacket shrinks, to make it all waterproof. But, now I cannot remember what they are called. Before I spend a bunch of time trying to figure out the right search terms, do any of y'all know off the top of your head what I'm talking about and where I can order some?

Thanks!!

Okay, never mind on this. I found what I was looking for on the first try.


I've been looking for an excuse to buy some of these, and I think this is it. :D
 

Neurobit

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Okay, never mind on this. I found what I was looking for on the first try.


I've been looking for an excuse to buy some of these, and I think this is it. :D
Look at my pics. That’s exactly what I’ve used for this project.
Also used them for my dashcam install last month. They work as advertised.

Cheers,
 

StuartV

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For me it was the ease of just plugging into the Curt, instead of cutting wires. Much cleaner solution in my opinion, and for 8 bucks, a no brainer.

Regarding the two LPRs, I can’t see needling any more than one. For me at least, if I ever back up with the tailgate down, the stock lights will have to do.

Cheers,

Hmmmm.... Spend 8 bucks, have one extra electrical connection in the circuit.

Or, save 8 bucks, spend 10 seconds using a pair of wire cutters, have 1 less electrical connection, and, possibly, have a much smaller mass of wiring hidden up behind the bumper.

I think we have different definitions of a "clean solution". Myself, I always like to cut out the middle man, where I can. :D

But, I reckon that's why my grandmother used to tell me (frequently) "that's why there's chocolate and vanilla." LOL
 

faithwalker

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Was bummed to find out that I couldn't upgrade my OEM LED reverse lights but this looks like this will solve that problem. Ordered all of the parts. I will provide an update when installed. Thanks for everyone that has taken the time to share this information!
 

Neurobit

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Was bummed to find out that I couldn't upgrade my OEM LED reverse lights but this looks like this will solve that problem. Ordered all of the parts. I will provide an update when installed. Thanks for everyone that has taken the time to share this information!
Post or PM if you run into any issues. Doubt it as it’s a pretty straightforward mod.

Cheers,
 

firemedic10584

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I'm planning on running mine thru a relay so I can have it on it's own switch and come on automatically with the reverse lights. I'll probably put diodes inline so it when one (own switch or reverse power) is activated it doesn't back feed anything. I doubt I'd have any problems but just in case. Have any of you set yours up this way?
 

Neurobit

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I'm planning on running mine thru a relay so I can have it on it's own switch and come on automatically with the reverse lights. I'll probably put diodes inline so it when one (own switch or reverse power) is activated it doesn't back feed anything. I doubt I'd have any problems but just in case. Have any of you set yours up this way?
I don't think anyone has done that, so you'll be the first. Let us know how it turns out.

Cheers,
 

StuartV

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And another 30 minutes or so futzing around at the back and underneath of my truck and I have working lights with, I think, a nice, fairly tidy job of the wiring. Woohoo!!!

Question for those that have done this before: The wires from the LPR light itself have a small grommet on them. I didn't really see any way to utilize that. No hole in the bumper to run the wires through. I just ran them up and over the top of the bumper to the back side. Anybody that looks at the license plate area closely will see the wires coming out of the top right corner from behind the plate and going over the bumper. It would be nice if the wires were totally 100% hidden, but I didn't see a way to do that - other than possibly drilling a hole through the bumper behind the license plate.

Is there a better way to do that?

Side note: Now that I see how it all goes together, I wish I had cut the power cord lead that came with the LPR light. It must be 8' long. The ends were already stripped, so I just used it like it came. But, I could have cut it to be more like 6" and it would have been perfect. If I ever have to take it back off for any reason, maybe I'll redo it like that. Have one simple coil of wiring under there instead of 8' coiled up....

30368
 

Neurobit

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And another 30 minutes or so futzing around at the back and underneath of my truck and I have working lights with, I think, a nice, fairly tidy job of the wiring. Woohoo!!!

Question for those that have done this before: The wires from the LPR light itself have a small grommet on them. I didn't really see any way to utilize that. No hole in the bumper to run the wires through. I just ran them up and over the top of the bumper to the back side. Anybody that looks at the license plate area closely will see the wires coming out of the top right corner from behind the plate and going over the bumper. It would be nice if the wires were totally 100% hidden, but I didn't see a way to do that - other than possibly drilling a hole through the bumper behind the license plate.

Is there a better way to do that?

Side note: Now that I see how it all goes together, I wish I had cut the power cord lead that came with the LPR light. It must be 8' long. The ends were already stripped, so I just used it like it came. But, I could have cut it to be more like 6" and it would have been perfect. If I ever have to take it back off for any reason, maybe I'll redo it like that. Have one simple coil of wiring under there instead of 8' coiled up....

View attachment 30368
Nice job.

Cheers,
 

J4U

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My light is being held for shipment until the bracket comes in stock.

If I hadn't already put the wiring together and secured it in preparation, I would for sure do what you came up with!

I agree about cutting the wire to reduce coil. I will still do that when I actually install the light but will still have the huge bundle already secured. Nice job!
 

StuartV

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I sat at the end of my driveway and stuck my phone out the window to take pictures of behind me. One with a thick blanket over the LPR light.

I’d say the LPR light kicks major ***.

38adf19b6d7eff85208bbcf7cbbdd302.jpg

359e3070c9f2a388ca5a7763e691da44.jpg
 

sergetexan

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And another 30 minutes or so futzing around at the back and underneath of my truck and I have working lights with, I think, a nice, fairly tidy job of the wiring
Question for those that have done this before: The wires from the LPR light itself have a small grommet on them. I didn't really see any way to utilize that. No hole in the bumper to run the wires through. I just ran them up and over the top of the bumper to the back side. Anybody that looks at the license plate area closely will see the wires coming out of the top right corner from behind the plate and going over the bumper. It would be nice if the wires were totally 100% hidden, but I didn't see a way to do that - other than possibly drilling a hole through the bumper behind the license plate.

Is there a better way to do that?

Side note: Now that I see how it all goes together, I wish I had cut the power cord lead that came with the LPR light. It must be 8' long. The ends were already stripped, so I just used it like it came. But, I could have cut it to be more like 6" and it would have been perfect. If I ever have to take it back off for any reason, maybe I'll redo it like that. Have one simple coil of wiring under there instead of 8' coiled up....

View attachment 30368

Behind plate there are two push pins with no function , I removed one reamed it out (plastic) with screw driver and ran wite thru hole pulled grommet flush against. I have bighorn maybe yours is different?
 

sergetexan

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I want to thank everyone who posted step by step pics for this mod. Received my LPR today, installed and ready to go. Backing out of my drive at night has been a guessing game and now I will be able to see!!! waiting for sundown! Also waiting on VLeds license plate bracket which is on back order. This my favorite mod so far, lots of walkers and kids in neighborhood, now I don’t have to back in drive. Thanks again !
 

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