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Key fob programming

Cross Referenced.
I find post #3 interesting, add a couple of buttons and new cover to upgrade the your remote functions.

How difficult is it to solder in those buttons? What tools and skill level?

New cover for the remote is not that difficult and my replacement cost less than $14.

the buttons are
Cross Referenced.
I find post #3 interesting, add a couple of buttons and new cover to upgrade the your remote functions.

How difficult is it to solder in those buttons? What tools and skill level?

New cover for the remote is not that difficult and my replacement cost less than $14.

Here's a prospective on how smalls the buttons are. They measure 3mm x 3mm or 1/8 x 1/8. For me it's fairly easy to solider them, I use to fix circuit board traces. Not for the average user, as the point are smaller then most over the counter iron tips.

I soldiered the buttons on my remote and the remote start nor tailgate light didn't flash when I pushed them. iall other buttons still work fine.
i also but a button on the center location of another remote that i have for the truck with 4 button remotes, with same results.
Don't have tools to connect to truck yet, so I don't have remote start turned on yet. just doing what I can as I can. I also have new fobs on the way to compare.


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January 2023 I was quoted by a local "Payless Car Keys Corp" (paylesscarkeys.com) $350 for a Ram Key FOB.

Now $250 with certain requirements:
"Service includes AFTERMARKET smart key, programming service and mechanical service key and cutting service
Price is promotional and require prepayment from our website
If no keys at all or vehicle has issues price may vary
After payment is made, you must bring the car with all existing keys and proof of the purchase to our store
Dodge RAM 1500 2019+ smart key programming service | PAYLESS CAR KEYS CORP."
Note: No guarantee for me since I supplied the FOBS,

I also approached a key programmer outside my local Costco that would do my 2 ebay FOBS for $250 cash. So the cost with my 2 FOBS would be about $330. Again no guarantee as I supplied the FOBS.

My third option was via Ace Hardware and a buddy who works there after retiring to keep busy. He has done some FOBS but not the Ram and did not have the SGW bypass cable. I probably could have pursued this option if I chose to.

Held off and followed the progress and stories on this forum and made the necessary purchases and "reading comprehension".
OBDLink MX+ $159.66 Amazon
SGW bypass $17.27 Amazon
FOB $41.07 ebay
FOB $36.07 ebay
JScan app $27.21
2 keys cut $20.00 local locksmith

For a total of $301.28 (includes taxes)

THE INSTALL
The installation of the SGW bypass cable went pretty well, for a rookie. Took a little trial and error relying more on feel than visual to find the release clips.

Installed the OBDLink MX+ to the SGW bypass cable, connection all good and hit the pair button to link up with my phone.

Downloaded the Jscan app to my phone, paid the fee for 1 subscription and it became "All Systems Go" for programming the Key FOBS.

Getting the 5 digit pin went well. The next step I got side tracked a little bit with the on screen directions vs Jimmy 07's directions, despite having written them down and making note. What can I say - it was the last step.
Not bad for an analog guy living in the digital world.

The 2 FOBS and keys cut cost less than $100, (OBD Mx+, SGW bypass and Jscan a little over $200) and now I have additional abilities to read/clear codes and make some other adjustments if I so desire.

And hopefully saved and maybe even developed some new brain synapsis.

Thanks Jimmy 07
 
January 2023 I was quoted by a local "Payless Car Keys Corp" (paylesscarkeys.com) $350 for a Ram Key FOB.

Now $250 with certain requirements:
"Service includes AFTERMARKET smart key, programming service and mechanical service key and cutting service
Price is promotional and require prepayment from our website
If no keys at all or vehicle has issues price may vary
After payment is made, you must bring the car with all existing keys and proof of the purchase to our store
Dodge RAM 1500 2019+ smart key programming service | PAYLESS CAR KEYS CORP."
Note: No guarantee for me since I supplied the FOBS,

I also approached a key programmer outside my local Costco that would do my 2 ebay FOBS for $250 cash. So the cost with my 2 FOBS would be about $330. Again no guarantee as I supplied the FOBS.

My third option was via Ace Hardware and a buddy who works there after retiring to keep busy. He has done some FOBS but not the Ram and did not have the SGW bypass cable. I probably could have pursued this option if I chose to.

Held off and followed the progress and stories on this forum and made the necessary purchases and "reading comprehension".
OBDLink MX+ $159.66 Amazon
SGW bypass $17.27 Amazon
FOB $41.07 ebay
FOB $36.07 ebay
JScan app $27.21
2 keys cut $20.00 local locksmith

For a total of $301.28 (includes taxes)

THE INSTALL
The installation of the SGW bypass cable went pretty well, for a rookie. Took a little trial and error relying more on feel than visual to find the release clips.

Installed the OBDLink MX+ to the SGW bypass cable, connection all good and hit the pair button to link up with my phone.

Downloaded the Jscan app to my phone, paid the fee for 1 subscription and it became "All Systems Go" for programming the Key FOBS.

Getting the 5 digit pin went well. The next step I got side tracked a little bit with the on screen directions vs Jimmy 07's directions, despite having written them down and making note. What can I say - it was the last step.
Not bad for an analog guy living in the digital world.

The 2 FOBS and keys cut cost less than $100, (OBD Mx+, SGW bypass and Jscan a little over $200) and now I have additional abilities to read/clear codes and make some other adjustments if I so desire.

And hopefully saved and maybe even developed some new brain synapsis.

Thanks Jimmy 07

Well done, but you could have saved $100 by getting the vGate vLinker MC+ we've all been recommending for like over a year or so now.
 
Well done, but you could have saved $100 by getting the vGate vLinker MC+ we've all been recommending for like over a year or so now.
Thanks, ordered June 10th, 2024 via Amazon. Lot of info on the topic over the years. The 3 sons absorb those costs in their inheritance. I'm sure other members will pick up on the info and appreciate the savings.
 
Thanks, ordered June 10th, 2024 via Amazon. Lot of info on the topic over the years. The 3 sons absorb those costs in their inheritance. I'm sure other members will pick up on the info and appreciate the savings.
For those considering a purchase, some links and info.




 
I haven’t yet, and don’t know of anyone else that has tried. I just don’t have any spare brand new RF hubs to try it out on.
Curious to know if in the last 2 years you've seen anyone successfully program a new one. I haven't been able to find anything here or any of the other forums of folks even attempting on DT RAMs.

I have a 2019 1500 Limited and have the infamous rf hub damage from back lite leak. I was able to get a virgin rf hub off eBay (verified it shows empty in JScan, with a 5-digit PIN: 00000), but sadly have been unsuccessful.

JScan tells me to first pair with a fobik before the "replace rf hub" procedure. But keep getting a "key type error" when I attempt the programming.

Tried reaching out to the dev via FB and email few weeks ago but no response.
 
I would be curious if my key programmer could do a “all keys lost” program and then use jscan to program the hub?
 
Curious to know if in the last 2 years you've seen anyone successfully program a new one. I haven't been able to find anything here or any of the other forums of folks even attempting on DT RAMs.

I have a 2019 1500 Limited and have the infamous rf hub damage from back lite leak. I was able to get a virgin rf hub off eBay (verified it shows empty in JScan, with a 5-digit PIN: 00000), but sadly have been unsuccessful.

JScan tells me to first pair with a fobik before the "replace rf hub" procedure. But keep getting a "key type error" when I attempt the programming.

Tried reaching out to the dev via FB and email few weeks ago but no response.
have done several keys, never tried a new RFH, but I did try a new/virgin BCM and was not successful.
tried various procedures with jscan, alfaobd, cda6, witech2.0 (aftermarket account), and also a friend who is a locksmith with credentials tried with his tool, and we could not get the BCM replacement done. needed to pay dealer.

I did not try the "program a new fob" trick, as I did not know of it at this time.

are you certain you were using a good/new fob? ie. the ones for 2019+ 2500 trucks look the same, but are completely different and they do not interchange.
 
This afternoon I was going to try to add a new fobik to my 2019 Ram 1500 DT.
Went through Jimmy07's procedure (and several variations thereof) and could never grab a PIN. Always resulted in words to the effect of "Could not obtain PIN. Incorrect data". Or something like that.
I have the Z-Automotive SGW bypass, and a BAFX OBD2 connector. (I should add that I used JScan and the same BAFX adapter to grab a PIN for my JK, and to program two additional fobs for it, yesterday. I have also used the BAFX adapter to program lots of other stuff, using AlfaOBD, over the years.)
My internet connection, today, was supplying 100MBs data speeds, so I'm pretty sure that wasn't the issue, either.

Maybe I need to sacrifice a chicken or something, but I am open to suggestions.

Edit - I reread everything since Jimmy07's post, and have ordered a vLinker MC+, since everyone seems to be having success with those. (Even though I've been using the BAFX for six years with good success.)
Looks like all my chickens are safe, for the interim.
I'll post updates as I have them.
 
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This afternoon I was going to try to add a new fobik to my 2019 Ram 1500 DT.
Went through Jimmy07's procedure (and several variations thereof) and could never grab a PIN. Always resulted in words to the effect of "Could not obtain PIN. Incorrect data". Or something like that.
I have the Z-Automotive SGW bypass, and a BAFX OBD2 connector. (I should add that I used JScan and the same BAFX adapter to grab a PIN for my JK, and to program two additional fobs for it, yesterday. I have also used the BAFX adapter to program lots of other stuff, using AlfaOBD, over the years.)
My internet connection, today, was supplying 100MBs data speeds, so I'm pretty sure that wasn't the issue, either.

Maybe I need to sacrifice a chicken or something, but I am open to suggestions.

Edit - I reread everything since Jimmy07's post, and have ordered a vLinker MC+, since everyone seems to be having success with those. (Even though I've been using the BAFX for six years with good success.)
Looks like all my chickens are safe, for the interim.
I'll post updates as I have them.

Wise move. I have a BAFX, an MX+, and an MC+ and I would never trust the BAFX for more than (slow) monitor duties (certainly not data logging) or perhaps code clearing.

FWIW, a few years ago I had to reflow the solder joints on the BAFX after it started acting up a bit. It's just not a quality piece of kit.
 
Wise move. I have a BAFX, an MX+, and an MC+ and I would never trust the BAFX for more than (slow) monitor duties (certainly not data logging) or perhaps code clearing.

FWIW, a few years ago I had to reflow the solder joints on the BAFX after it started acting up a bit. It's just not a quality piece of kit.

Thanks for that comment. My BAFX still works, as far as it goes, but I don't have any trouble believing that it's inferior to others, when pressed hard. (I always had lots of "fun" setting up analog modems, back in the day. Easy to misconfigure. They would work - just not well.) I could imagine this one not being up to the task.

Perhaps there's a reason they are out of production, now. (Was looking for a link, for another thread. Crickets.)

The MC+ will be here tomorrow. As they say, we shall see...
 
Okay. So... baby steps? Or mis-steps.
I Installed the app that the MC+ required, except that my phone is an Android, but the only option in the "available" list was MC+ IOS. Even when I chose "Android" from the menu.
But... I let JScan connect, anyway. Was able to pull a PIN with very little difficulty. So I'm guessing that "something" is working correctly.
Entered the key program routine. went through all of that, including entering the PIN, and it went through the motions, but it's telling me that my key isn't blank. (To be fair, it's 3 years old, but it has never been programmed.) The brand is VOFONO, from Amazon.
So... Do I just need to buy a new fob? The whole point of this exercise was to add a fob that has a remote start function. I already have two working fobs.

Edit - My "working" fob was in the house. I also checked the battery in the new fob. It was good. 3.0V. I have to believe that it is, in fact, blank (which is not to say it's actually viable). Whenever I press any of the buttons, I don't get a flashing LED.

One again, thanks for any tips or suggestions.
 
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All I can offer is re: the MC+. It broadcasts BOTH BLE for iOS AND BT for Android. Don't try to use the BLE. At least that's been my experience. Use only the MC-Android device.



re: FOB, yea, I'd be looking at one of those jimmy07 and others have linked.
Good stuff. I'll have to explore the connection a bit further. It is odd that it still grabbed the PIN, though. Makes me wonder if it's working "acceptably enough", to accomplish what I want.
I'll read back through the thread for the fobs.
Much appreciated.
 
Okay. So... baby steps? Or mis-steps.
I Installed the app that the MC+ required, except that my phone is an Android, but the only option in the "available" list was MC+ IOS. Even when I chose "Android" from the menu.
But... I let JScan connect, anyway. Was able to pull a PIN with very little difficulty. So I'm guessing that "something" is working correctly.
Entered the key program routine. went through all of that, including entering the PIN, and it went through the motions, but it's telling me that my key isn't blank. (To be fair, it's 3 years old, but it has never been programmed.) The brand is VOFONO, from Amazon.
So... Do I just need to buy a new fob? The whole point of this exercise was to add a fob that has a remote start function. I already have two working fobs.

Edit - My "working" fob was in the house. I also checked the battery in the new fob. It was good. 3.0V. I have to believe that it is, in fact, blank (which is not to say it's actually viable). Whenever I press any of the buttons, I don't get a flashing LED.

One again, thanks for any tips or suggestions.
button press + no LED -----did you try a different battery for heck of it? even though it read 3.0 volts, if its 3 years old, it might just be a weak battery.
 
button press + no LED -----did you try a different battery for heck of it? even though it read 3.0 volts, if its 3 years old, it might just be a weak battery.
My original 2019 remotes still work with their original batteries.
I chose one of the vendors recommended above. My new remote should be here in a couple of days.
(Not discounting your suggestion about the new fob/battery. Just that it was an old "amazon" purchase, and I haven't heard much good about them - and lots "bad". Tired of screwing with it.)
Thanks, once again.
 

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