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Key fob programming

Jako said:
Cross Referenced.
I find post #3 interesting, add a couple of buttons and new cover to upgrade the your remote functions.

How difficult is it to solder in those buttons? What tools and skill level?

New cover for the remote is not that difficult and my replacement cost less than $14.

D

Post in thread 'Remote Tailgate Button'

The points are on the BH remote all you have to do is solder the momentary switches in place, here a pic of the board
T/g tailgate, r/s remote start.

These switch will work I'll be soldiering in the 3x3.5x2 tomorrow
Amazon.com

Also order this case
Keyecu Replacement Remote Car Key... Amazon.com
1000064635.jpg
  • Like
Click to expand...
the buttons are
Jako said:
Cross Referenced.
I find post #3 interesting, add a couple of buttons and new cover to upgrade the your remote functions.

How difficult is it to solder in those buttons? What tools and skill level?

New cover for the remote is not that difficult and my replacement cost less than $14.

D

Post in thread 'Remote Tailgate Button'

The points are on the BH remote all you have to do is solder the momentary switches in place, here a pic of the board
T/g tailgate, r/s remote start.

These switch will work I'll be soldiering in the 3x3.5x2 tomorrow
Amazon.com

Also order this case
Keyecu Replacement Remote Car Key... Amazon.com
1000064635.jpg
  • Like
Click to expand...
Here's a prospective on how smalls the buttons are. They measure 3mm x 3mm or 1/8 x 1/8. For me it's fairly easy to solider them, I use to fix circuit board traces. Not for the average user, as the point are smaller then most over the counter iron tips.

I soldiered the buttons on my remote and the remote start nor tailgate light didn't flash when I pushed them. iall other buttons still work fine.
i also but a button on the center location of another remote that i have for the truck with 4 button remotes, with same results.
Don't have tools to connect to truck yet, so I don't have remote start turned on yet. just doing what I can as I can. I also have new fobs on the way to compare.


1000064909.jpg
 
January 2023 I was quoted by a local "Payless Car Keys Corp" (paylesscarkeys.com) $350 for a Ram Key FOB.

Now $250 with certain requirements:
"Service includes AFTERMARKET smart key, programming service and mechanical service key and cutting service
Price is promotional and require prepayment from our website
If no keys at all or vehicle has issues price may vary
After payment is made, you must bring the car with all existing keys and proof of the purchase to our store
Dodge RAM 1500 2019+ smart key programming service | PAYLESS CAR KEYS CORP."
Note: No guarantee for me since I supplied the FOBS,

I also approached a key programmer outside my local Costco that would do my 2 ebay FOBS for $250 cash. So the cost with my 2 FOBS would be about $330. Again no guarantee as I supplied the FOBS.

My third option was via Ace Hardware and a buddy who works there after retiring to keep busy. He has done some FOBS but not the Ram and did not have the SGW bypass cable. I probably could have pursued this option if I chose to.

Held off and followed the progress and stories on this forum and made the necessary purchases and "reading comprehension".
OBDLink MX+ $159.66 Amazon
SGW bypass $17.27 Amazon
FOB $41.07 ebay
FOB $36.07 ebay
JScan app $27.21
2 keys cut $20.00 local locksmith

For a total of $301.28 (includes taxes)

THE INSTALL
The installation of the SGW bypass cable went pretty well, for a rookie. Took a little trial and error relying more on feel than visual to find the release clips.

Installed the OBDLink MX+ to the SGW bypass cable, connection all good and hit the pair button to link up with my phone.

Downloaded the Jscan app to my phone, paid the fee for 1 subscription and it became "All Systems Go" for programming the Key FOBS.

Getting the 5 digit pin went well. The next step I got side tracked a little bit with the on screen directions vs Jimmy 07's directions, despite having written them down and making note. What can I say - it was the last step.
Not bad for an analog guy living in the digital world.

The 2 FOBS and keys cut cost less than $100, (OBD Mx+, SGW bypass and Jscan a little over $200) and now I have additional abilities to read/clear codes and make some other adjustments if I so desire.

And hopefully saved and maybe even developed some new brain synapsis.

Thanks Jimmy 07
 
Jako said:
January 2023 I was quoted by a local "Payless Car Keys Corp" (paylesscarkeys.com) $350 for a Ram Key FOB.

Now $250 with certain requirements:
"Service includes AFTERMARKET smart key, programming service and mechanical service key and cutting service
Price is promotional and require prepayment from our website
If no keys at all or vehicle has issues price may vary
After payment is made, you must bring the car with all existing keys and proof of the purchase to our store
Dodge RAM 1500 2019+ smart key programming service | PAYLESS CAR KEYS CORP."
Note: No guarantee for me since I supplied the FOBS,

I also approached a key programmer outside my local Costco that would do my 2 ebay FOBS for $250 cash. So the cost with my 2 FOBS would be about $330. Again no guarantee as I supplied the FOBS.

My third option was via Ace Hardware and a buddy who works there after retiring to keep busy. He has done some FOBS but not the Ram and did not have the SGW bypass cable. I probably could have pursued this option if I chose to.

Held off and followed the progress and stories on this forum and made the necessary purchases and "reading comprehension".
OBDLink MX+ $159.66 Amazon
SGW bypass $17.27 Amazon
FOB $41.07 ebay
FOB $36.07 ebay
JScan app $27.21
2 keys cut $20.00 local locksmith

For a total of $301.28 (includes taxes)

THE INSTALL
The installation of the SGW bypass cable went pretty well, for a rookie. Took a little trial and error relying more on feel than visual to find the release clips.

Installed the OBDLink MX+ to the SGW bypass cable, connection all good and hit the pair button to link up with my phone.

Downloaded the Jscan app to my phone, paid the fee for 1 subscription and it became "All Systems Go" for programming the Key FOBS.

Getting the 5 digit pin went well. The next step I got side tracked a little bit with the on screen directions vs Jimmy 07's directions, despite having written them down and making note. What can I say - it was the last step.
Not bad for an analog guy living in the digital world.

The 2 FOBS and keys cut cost less than $100, (OBD Mx+, SGW bypass and Jscan a little over $200) and now I have additional abilities to read/clear codes and make some other adjustments if I so desire.

And hopefully saved and maybe even developed some new brain synapsis.

Thanks Jimmy 07
Click to expand...

Well done, but you could have saved $100 by getting the vGate vLinker MC+ we've all been recommending for like over a year or so now.
 
Brutal_HO said:
Well done, but you could have saved $100 by getting the vGate vLinker MC+ we've all been recommending for like over a year or so now.
Click to expand...
Thanks, ordered June 10th, 2024 via Amazon. Lot of info on the topic over the years. The 3 sons absorb those costs in their inheritance. I'm sure other members will pick up on the info and appreciate the savings.
 
Jako said:
Thanks, ordered June 10th, 2024 via Amazon. Lot of info on the topic over the years. The 3 sons absorb those costs in their inheritance. I'm sure other members will pick up on the info and appreciate the savings.
Click to expand...
For those considering a purchase, some links and info.

www.fastcar.co.uk

Best Bluetooth OBD2 Scanners In 2025

I’ve picked 7 of the best Bluetooth OBD2 scanners and put them against each other in a mega test of diagnostics. Here are the results.
www.fastcar.co.uk www.fastcar.co.uk

www.fastcar.co.uk

vLinker MC+ OBD2 Scanner Review

We get to grips with the VLinker MC+ OBD2 scanner to see how well the Bluetooth device can diagnose car issues.
www.fastcar.co.uk www.fastcar.co.uk


www.obdlink.com

OBDLink MX+

The OBDLink® MX+ is the top-of-the-line OBD II scan tool to use with forscan and comes with bluetooth. Get one here today and gain access to your vehicle!
www.obdlink.com www.obdlink.com
 
Jimmy07 said:
I haven’t yet, and don’t know of anyone else that has tried. I just don’t have any spare brand new RF hubs to try it out on.
Click to expand...
Curious to know if in the last 2 years you've seen anyone successfully program a new one. I haven't been able to find anything here or any of the other forums of folks even attempting on DT RAMs.

I have a 2019 1500 Limited and have the infamous rf hub damage from back lite leak. I was able to get a virgin rf hub off eBay (verified it shows empty in JScan, with a 5-digit PIN: 00000), but sadly have been unsuccessful.

JScan tells me to first pair with a fobik before the "replace rf hub" procedure. But keep getting a "key type error" when I attempt the programming.

Tried reaching out to the dev via FB and email few weeks ago but no response.
 
I would be curious if my key programmer could do a “all keys lost” program and then use jscan to program the hub?
 
sean2 said:
Curious to know if in the last 2 years you've seen anyone successfully program a new one. I haven't been able to find anything here or any of the other forums of folks even attempting on DT RAMs.

I have a 2019 1500 Limited and have the infamous rf hub damage from back lite leak. I was able to get a virgin rf hub off eBay (verified it shows empty in JScan, with a 5-digit PIN: 00000), but sadly have been unsuccessful.

JScan tells me to first pair with a fobik before the "replace rf hub" procedure. But keep getting a "key type error" when I attempt the programming.

Tried reaching out to the dev via FB and email few weeks ago but no response.
Click to expand...
have done several keys, never tried a new RFH, but I did try a new/virgin BCM and was not successful.
tried various procedures with jscan, alfaobd, cda6, witech2.0 (aftermarket account), and also a friend who is a locksmith with credentials tried with his tool, and we could not get the BCM replacement done. needed to pay dealer.

I did not try the "program a new fob" trick, as I did not know of it at this time.

are you certain you were using a good/new fob? ie. the ones for 2019+ 2500 trucks look the same, but are completely different and they do not interchange.
 
This afternoon I was going to try to add a new fobik to my 2019 Ram 1500 DT.
Went through Jimmy07's procedure (and several variations thereof) and could never grab a PIN. Always resulted in words to the effect of "Could not obtain PIN. Incorrect data". Or something like that.
I have the Z-Automotive SGW bypass, and a BAFX OBD2 connector. (I should add that I used JScan and the same BAFX adapter to grab a PIN for my JK, and to program two additional fobs for it, yesterday. I have also used the BAFX adapter to program lots of other stuff, using AlfaOBD, over the years.)
My internet connection, today, was supplying 100MBs data speeds, so I'm pretty sure that wasn't the issue, either.

Maybe I need to sacrifice a chicken or something, but I am open to suggestions.

Edit - I reread everything since Jimmy07's post, and have ordered a vLinker MC+, since everyone seems to be having success with those. (Even though I've been using the BAFX for six years with good success.)
Looks like all my chickens are safe, for the interim.
I'll post updates as I have them.
 
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Raydar said:
This afternoon I was going to try to add a new fobik to my 2019 Ram 1500 DT.
Went through Jimmy07's procedure (and several variations thereof) and could never grab a PIN. Always resulted in words to the effect of "Could not obtain PIN. Incorrect data". Or something like that.
I have the Z-Automotive SGW bypass, and a BAFX OBD2 connector. (I should add that I used JScan and the same BAFX adapter to grab a PIN for my JK, and to program two additional fobs for it, yesterday. I have also used the BAFX adapter to program lots of other stuff, using AlfaOBD, over the years.)
My internet connection, today, was supplying 100MBs data speeds, so I'm pretty sure that wasn't the issue, either.

Maybe I need to sacrifice a chicken or something, but I am open to suggestions.

Edit - I reread everything since Jimmy07's post, and have ordered a vLinker MC+, since everyone seems to be having success with those. (Even though I've been using the BAFX for six years with good success.)
Looks like all my chickens are safe, for the interim.
I'll post updates as I have them.
Click to expand...

Wise move. I have a BAFX, an MX+, and an MC+ and I would never trust the BAFX for more than (slow) monitor duties (certainly not data logging) or perhaps code clearing.

FWIW, a few years ago I had to reflow the solder joints on the BAFX after it started acting up a bit. It's just not a quality piece of kit.
 
Brutal_HO said:
Wise move. I have a BAFX, an MX+, and an MC+ and I would never trust the BAFX for more than (slow) monitor duties (certainly not data logging) or perhaps code clearing.

FWIW, a few years ago I had to reflow the solder joints on the BAFX after it started acting up a bit. It's just not a quality piece of kit.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that comment. My BAFX still works, as far as it goes, but I don't have any trouble believing that it's inferior to others, when pressed hard. (I always had lots of "fun" setting up analog modems, back in the day. Easy to misconfigure. They would work - just not well.) I could imagine this one not being up to the task.

Perhaps there's a reason they are out of production, now. (Was looking for a link, for another thread. Crickets.)

The MC+ will be here tomorrow. As they say, we shall see...
 
Okay. So... baby steps? Or mis-steps.
I Installed the app that the MC+ required, except that my phone is an Android, but the only option in the "available" list was MC+ IOS. Even when I chose "Android" from the menu.
But... I let JScan connect, anyway. Was able to pull a PIN with very little difficulty. So I'm guessing that "something" is working correctly.
Entered the key program routine. went through all of that, including entering the PIN, and it went through the motions, but it's telling me that my key isn't blank. (To be fair, it's 3 years old, but it has never been programmed.) The brand is VOFONO, from Amazon.
So... Do I just need to buy a new fob? The whole point of this exercise was to add a fob that has a remote start function. I already have two working fobs.

Edit - My "working" fob was in the house. I also checked the battery in the new fob. It was good. 3.0V. I have to believe that it is, in fact, blank (which is not to say it's actually viable). Whenever I press any of the buttons, I don't get a flashing LED.

One again, thanks for any tips or suggestions.
 
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Brutal_HO said:
All I can offer is re: the MC+. It broadcasts BOTH BLE for iOS AND BT for Android. Don't try to use the BLE. At least that's been my experience. Use only the MC-Android device.



re: FOB, yea, I'd be looking at one of those jimmy07 and others have linked.
Click to expand...
Good stuff. I'll have to explore the connection a bit further. It is odd that it still grabbed the PIN, though. Makes me wonder if it's working "acceptably enough", to accomplish what I want.
I'll read back through the thread for the fobs.
Much appreciated.
 
Raydar said:
Okay. So... baby steps? Or mis-steps.
I Installed the app that the MC+ required, except that my phone is an Android, but the only option in the "available" list was MC+ IOS. Even when I chose "Android" from the menu.
But... I let JScan connect, anyway. Was able to pull a PIN with very little difficulty. So I'm guessing that "something" is working correctly.
Entered the key program routine. went through all of that, including entering the PIN, and it went through the motions, but it's telling me that my key isn't blank. (To be fair, it's 3 years old, but it has never been programmed.) The brand is VOFONO, from Amazon.
So... Do I just need to buy a new fob? The whole point of this exercise was to add a fob that has a remote start function. I already have two working fobs.

Edit - My "working" fob was in the house. I also checked the battery in the new fob. It was good. 3.0V. I have to believe that it is, in fact, blank (which is not to say it's actually viable). Whenever I press any of the buttons, I don't get a flashing LED.

One again, thanks for any tips or suggestions.
Click to expand...
button press + no LED -----did you try a different battery for heck of it? even though it read 3.0 volts, if its 3 years old, it might just be a weak battery.
 
mike_ct said:
button press + no LED -----did you try a different battery for heck of it? even though it read 3.0 volts, if its 3 years old, it might just be a weak battery.
Click to expand...
My original 2019 remotes still work with their original batteries.
I chose one of the vendors recommended above. My new remote should be here in a couple of days.
(Not discounting your suggestion about the new fob/battery. Just that it was an old "amazon" purchase, and I haven't heard much good about them - and lots "bad". Tired of screwing with it.)
Thanks, once again.
 
So... another swing and a miss. Got my new (as recommended) fob a couple of days ago. Just went out to try to program it. JScan grabbed the PIN just fine (same PIN that it gave me a few days ago.)
Tried to do the programming procedure. Got through the point where I had to enter the PIN, which I did. Held the fob against the start button (pressed) and pressed the unlock button every second. Eventually failed every attempt with "Conditions not met", or words to that effect. At least it's not telling me my fob is not blank, this time.
Maybe I need to sacrifice a chicken, or something.
 
Raydar said:
So... another swing and a miss. Got my new (as recommended) fob a couple of days ago. Just went out to try to program it. JScan grabbed the PIN just fine (same PIN that it gave me a few days ago.)
Tried to do the programming procedure. Got through the point where I had to enter the PIN, which I did. Held the fob against the start button (pressed) and pressed the unlock button every second. Eventually failed every attempt with "Conditions not met", or words to that effect. At least it's not telling me my fob is not blank, this time.
Maybe I need to sacrifice a chicken, or something.
Click to expand...
You only press the button once.

Review your procedures and try again. Make sure the OE fobs are not in range.

Look at post #52.

J

Post in thread 'Key fob programming'

Frankf300 said:
So that’s where I got stumped actually. My cluster refused to go to sleep I think because my fob was in the truck. I waited around 10 mins and it would not turn off. Remained on the screen that said to push the brake to start. I did do the hazards when instructed though.
Click to expand...
Looks like he did another update yesterday, but here’s what I just did to successfully pull it:
Close door, ign in run, connect to DJ, select 2017-21 target, hit go.
Turn on the hazards and turn the ignition off when the prompt pops up, but ignore opening/closing door and letting the cluster go to sleep. Just hit...
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Review these posts also.

I believe the instructions to press the start button in with the FOB are incorrect (just hold the FOB against it),

And repeatedly pressing the unlock is incorrect, just press it once after touching to the start button.

@Jimmy07

J

Post in thread 'Key fob programming'

Alright…
Finally grabbed a handful of fobs from eBay and successfully programmed to 2019+ 5th GEN Ram 1500 using only JScan.
All steps were done without ever putting the ignition in ACC or RUN position, and all working fobs were left in the house (so I could verify that JScan can program for an “all fobs lost” situation).
Connect to Ram DT 1500, then go to adaptation > radio frequency hub settings > RFH pin reading beta > target value = ram 2019-2023 > go.
When the following screen pops up, just turn the hazards on. Don’t bother opening and closing the door and don’t worry about the...
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J

Post in thread 'Key fob programming'

Molonlabemike said:
My only thought on the reader was that it would allow me to access the pin, so it would make sense that it should allow it to program. Might need to try a different reader, I guess.

The truck was off as it wouldn't allow it to move forward with the truck in the ACC or run position.

Do the hazards need to be on when programming the key fobs? I saw that for the pin, but nowhere about it in the key programming.
Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
I’m not too sure about that vepeek, but a couple things to make sure for the HD Rams:
- Try making sure there is no other valid fob near the truck, only...
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