Installing Factory Trailer Brake Controller and DIY Software Update

[LoudHogRider]

Thanks it’s not there. I guess they didn’t do it. Hooked up my trailer too and nothing recognized.

Did your dealer or your vehicle ever resolve to show the trailer? I did the installation myself, but had the software flash done at a local area dealer yesterday ($69) over the lunch hour and so far I have absolutely no sign of the update at all, either on the main uConnect or in the cluster gauges. I checked several times yesterday afternoon and nothing.

About 8 last night, I went out and disconnected the negative battery terminal for a few moments, reconnected. Pulled the screen from the dash, unplugged and reconnected the trailer brake plug to ensure it was securely attached. Nothing. I did turn on the vehicle headlights to ensure that the "lights" on the brake unit came on (they did), so I know it's connected and receiving power. So I thought I may have one of the blonde Rams that needs to sit overnight to think about the software update. Fine, I'll sleep on it and hope it resolves itself overnight.

Just checked again this morning. Nothing. Me, coming in from the garage right now:

 

[LoudHogRider]

Minor update: still no sign of a successful electronic trailer brake flash on my vehicle. I've detached all three of the new connections, double-checked that there are no bent pins, reconnected (with that satisfying "click" sound when they're fully seated) and nothing. I have an appointment at the same dealership on Thursday afternoon to do a re-flash of the system software. Fingers crossed.

 

[dspec_s550]

I just added the trailer brake programming to my 2021 ram 1500 bighorn. Used the bafx obd2 dongle, the obdgenie security bypass, my daughters lenovo tablet, and jscan! Thanks y'all for the instructions! My options showed up after first restart of the truck after removing the security gateway bypass. Works great!

I was quoted $220 from the dealership to do just the programming, so I got and installed the module kit, purchased from ebay link, and the rest of the bits.

 

[LoudHogRider]

Minor update: still no sign of a successful electronic trailer brake flash on my vehicle. I've detached all three of the new connections, double-checked that there are no bent pins, reconnected (with that satisfying "click" sound when they're fully seated) and nothing. I have an appointment at the same dealership on Thursday afternoon to do a re-flash of the system software. Fingers crossed.

Yes - I'm quoting myself.

Final update, Captain's Log 04/01/2021: I'm back from the dealership and the software "flash" has been successfully resolved. The Service Manager brought me the joyous news himself, and apologized for the code entry error on their behalf that required a second trip to their dealership to have the item resolved. $69+tax was their fee, which was 1/2 of what any other dealer in the metro area was willing to do the work for.

 

[KrustyKush]

First post here: New 1500 Laramie, breaking it in, just passed 500 miles.

Anyways, I installed the factory ITBM myself. Bought the kit at the dealer parts shop the day after driving the truck home. $350 tax/title. Service dept said they want $170 to program. I hated doing that. But I need the truck soon to do some towing, and can't afford to be dicking around with programming problems. Install took me better part of a day, because I am super careful, quadruple check every step. Also 'cause I am 72 and it is really hard to bend into the positions this install required.

So I paid the $170, and the truck recognizes the controller. Still haven't hooked up the actual trailer to it. Fingers crossed. Maybe I will consider this an investment in a relationship with the dealer shop. Always done most of my own work. Now old, it is getting old.

 

[Simplman]

Found this thread awhile back, installed the factory trailer brake controller the other day. Super easy thanks to the great write up. Also have an appointment to get the truck flashed for $50. Thanks for the write up!

 

[Ken2021Etorque]

Just installed oem brake controller turn on all 4 steps with alfaobd everything seem working except still displaying trailer braker not connected

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[rutledj]

I installed the factory controller and used alfaodb to enable it. The brakes do not come on when I press the brake pedal. They will with the squeeze pedals but even with a setting of 10, they don't really stop the trailer. Everything seems to be working software wise. Any ideas?

 

[Ken2021Etorque]

I installed the factory controller and used alfaodb to enable it. The brakes do not come on when I press the brake pedal. They will with the squeeze pedals but even with a setting of 10, they don't really stop the trailer. Everything seems to be working software wise. Any ideas?

Did you check make sure the trailer brakes are activating?

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[rutledj]

Did you check make sure the trailer brakes are activating?

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If I go down the road and squeeze the paddles I can feel and hear the camper brakes come on but just a little. Not enough force to even slow my truck down. Pressing just the brake pedal does nothing even though the cluster shows the brakes being applied.

 

[tyromeo55]

I’d ohm at the trailer plug while detached. Then do a voltage and current test while attached and another person holding the peddle / squeezing the controller slider

does the trailer work properly in another truck?

 

[rutledj]

Yes. The trailer worked fine with our old truck using a after market controller. Can voltage be checked coming out of the truck connector? Unfortunately, the camper was sold and just picked up. Going to get a new one on Sat. Not sure how to guarantee that the brakes work before we go.

 

[Ken2021Etorque]

Yes. The trailer worked fine with our old truck using a after market controller. Can voltage be checked coming out of the truck connector? Unfortunately, the camper was sold and just picked up. Going to get a new one on Sat. Not sure how to guarantee that the brakes work before we go.

I know there is a plug test for the hitch


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[Ramster]

What's it set on?

 

[rutledj]

I went from 5 to 10. I put a voltage meter on the trailer plug and could measure voltage between ground and the brake out pins. Changing the level (with the buttons) also changes the voltage out. So I'm hoping it is working since I'm going to pick up a new camper next Sat.

 

[tyromeo55]

Yes. The trailer worked fine with our old truck using a after market controller. Can voltage be checked coming out of the truck connector? Unfortunately, the camper was sold and just picked up. Going to get a new one on Sat. Not sure how to guarantee that the brakes work before we go.

Yes. If set to full output you should get a full voltage at the corresponding trailer terminal to ground. If not then Id start with the under hood fuses. The fancy new fuses are hard to tell if they are blown unless you test them. Just getting voltage does not necessarily mean that it can supply the proper current. To test that you'll need a load of some kind or have the trailer hooked up during the test. Test is done via a DC clamp-meter or with the meter in series. At full tilt the controller should be able to supply somewhere around 3A-4A per brake (single axle with brakes = x2 --- Double axle with brakes all around = x4)

Another thing to test is the trailer brakes at the trailer. unplugged... From the brake wire to ground you should have 3-4 ohms (ish) per brake. They are wired in parallel so you'll have to multiply whatever reading you get by the number of brakes and see if you get close to that 3-4 ohm number per.

clear as mud?

 

[rutledj]

Makes perfect sense. I'm wondering what size resister I could put across the output terminals to test current. 3-4 ohms may be the DC resistance reading of the brakes but I suspect it is a reactive load more on the order of a few hundred ohms. As stated earlier, we have sold the camper, so I don't have anything to plug into it.

 

[KMach]

Installed mine last week and towed 500 miles this past weekend. I had about 7500lbs behind me and preferred the trailer set on heavy electric with gain around 6. The trailer brake controller is a smart module. It may not apply if you are expecting it to while stopped on level ground it takes in account the vehicles pitch and roll angles as well as brake pressure and vehicle speed as well as steering angle. It will also help with the trailer making noise stopping and going.

 

[tyromeo55]

Makes perfect sense. I'm wondering what size resister I could put across the output terminals to test current. 3-4 ohms may be the DC resistance reading of the brakes but I suspect it is a reactive load more on the order of a few hundred ohms. As stated earlier, we have sold the camper, so I don't have anything to plug into it.

For our purpose we can treat the mags / e-brake as a resistive load.

If I wanted to test the output from the truck I would want to load it up to the max current the controller would see. If I had 2 tires with brakes I might load it up to 6-8 amps. If there were 4 tires that had brakes I would want to do more. If you are fearful of pulling too much current then look at the book to see what the fuse size for the "trailer brakes" and stay under 80% of that value.

What to use as a load? The size of the resistor would depend on the current you are trying to pull. Take the applied volts (lets say 14 if the truck is running) and divide by the current you are wanting to pull (volts/Amps=OHM).
Here is the kicker.. The load needs to be able to dissipate the energy produced as heat. A little 4 ohm 1/4 watt resistor is going to pop when you ask it to soak up almost 50 watts of heat. 100Watt versions can be had on amazon for about $5 each. If your in a real pinch or just a cheapskate (like me) AND KNOW WHAT YOUR GETTING INTO.. you could try to make a load out of bailing wire or some coathangers

 

[rutledj]

I actually found a tapped wirewound 100 watt resistor (used when building tube amps as an attenuator) . I hooked that up with the meter in series to measure amps. The resistor tap was set to 5 ohms. Most I could get out, on heavy electric setting and gain on 10 was about 1 amp. So is KMach's theory coming into play here? That the truck needs to be moving for it to work properly (or to test)?