Keep in mind that I'm actually measuring the flow of current through a load, not the voltage.
I understand. I don't have any power resistors that get me low enough to do the testing on my truck. The point of the load test is to see if it is required for the controller to give full output. In the interest of help, fun, community I'll get some coming and see what measurements I get off a known working truck. Hopefully that will give everyone here a solid baseline for troubleshooting
Current is only half of the equation. You want to see proper current at the proper voltage. If your only getting 2A with a 2.5 ohm resistor (cold) then there is only 5V at the plug. That is not enough if your sending a 10.0Gain and full pedal. What you should be seeing is about 1V less than charging system volts
Full tilt on a 2.5 ohm resistor id expect near 5AMPS (67watts)
Your seeing 2AMPS (10watts)
That is a LOT LESS power sent to the brakes (nearly 7 times as less)
My voltage reading are in line with yours
No load voltage can seem good when there is no load. As you apply load bad connections take their toll. That is why I suggested it after your initial testing seemed to turn up nothing
when I had a camper attached it didn't feel like the camper brakes were engaging, and pressing the slide buttons together, even with a power level of 10, didn't lock up the camper brakes.
Empty utility trailers aside I would not think you could lock them up anyway. Could you on your last truck setup?
So my concern is not enough current was getting to the brake magnets. But now that both factory and 3rd party controllers have the same amp reading, I'm assuming it is working. Pick up the new camper on Sat. Will know for sure then
I still think something is wrong