How often do you change your engine oil?

[Willwork4truck]

Some say it doesn't need to be changed early, but I did my first at about 2500 kms, second one 5000 after that, then moved to my regular oil change schedule. Oil is like 80 bucks for high quality, less if you're just pouring off the shelf oil in, and I like the peace of mind.

My oil changes and views on all this is centered around keeping the truck until the wheels fall off (at least, I maintain it as if that's the goal and it looks more and more like that's the case for me), if you don't plan to drive it forever then I wouldn't worry about it in the slightest.

On my 19 I changed the original factory fill at 1500 miles then every 3-4 thou afterwards. Excessive some will say but I only used the dealers “50 gallon barrel shop oil” and usually got $30-35 coupons. It wasn’t even semi-synthetic, whatever blend percentage that is…
Never heard a peep from the engine for the 24K miles we had it.

Now my neighbor has a 16 hemi that he changes “faithfully” at the 0 percent on the oil indicator. It rattles and ticks like hell. It has 110K on it. Ive got to believe his long change intervals have made the situation much worse.

Oil is cheap. YMMV

 

[jmr]

You got that right oil is cheap and engines are not. I change it every 5K with 5W-30 synthetic oil the lifters and camshaft will thank you.

 

[barrak]

So here's a different question... When should you do your FIRST oil change?

Did mine at 2,320 miles. Out of curiosity after reading about others having issues with filter replacement on the 4x4 5.7L combo.

 

[6of36]

I’ll watch some of his videos… anyone can learn from anyone.

Point being…to be clear. You parroted all his ideas…and based it on race engines, to tell me I basically wasn’t worthy and didn’t know as much as someone else, while placing all your faith in knowledge in someone else.

I find it amusing that you mentioned Amsoil in the city department squad vehicles.. Amsoil is one of the biggest snake oil out there, both by their sales marketing and dealer distro model.

He doesn't only work on race engines. I only stated that part, to show his experience, that he has worked with engines his entire life, starting with his famous Nascar racing father. He also has videos about changing the oil in his daughter's Toyota. I am a former master certified mechanic, and before seeing his videos, I used to go by the computer, because it takes into account, things like load, and temperature. The only thing the computer can't take into account, is dirt in the air. After watching the guy with the degree in lubrication, explaining everything, my opinion changed. The factory only worries about the engine lasting as long as the warranty.

 

[dajogejr]

He doesn't only work on race engines. I only stated that part, to show his experience, that he has worked with engines his entire life, starting with his famous Nascar racing father. He also has videos about changing the oil in his daughter's Toyota. I am a former master certified mechanic, and before seeing his videos, I used to go by the computer, because it takes into account, things like load, and temperature. The only thing the computer can't take into account, is dirt in the air. After watching the guy with the degree in lubrication, explaining everything, my opinion changed. The factory only worries about the engine lasting as long as the warranty.

So the factory computer can take into account everything except dirt in the air.
Can you provide what that formula would be? Does a closed (note, closed, not sealed) system have much dirty air to intake other than via the air filter?
If I never drive a dirt road, construction, etc. I’m good to go then? We’ll I’m in MIchigan and we have none of those (especially the construction) so I should be good to go…(dripping sarcasm obviously)

Honestly, powertrain warranty is 60K. If the factory only cared about that you’d see more failures and more often.
But frankly, I could care less. I purchase the extended warranty (My 08 laramie had lifetime powertrain, which of course they did away with years later).. so I change it by the EVIC, at a dealer, and call it done.

I’ll drive and spend my money how I see fit. Feel free to spend yours the same.
And neither one of us has to agree with how the other does just that.
I’ve worked on cars, bikes, small engines, boats…anything with a motor for over 40 years.
I’ve been to seminar after seminar on oil in years past.
I’m not as pedigreed in the least as him. But I’m not a fool who believes everything they see/hear/are told either.
The internet is full of experts…just ask any of them. LOL.

 

[silver billet]

I used to go by the computer, because it takes into account, things like load, and temperature. The only thing the computer can't take into account, is dirt in the air.

It also can't account for oil oxidation, the drop in viscosity, the fuel dilation, the TBN left, the amount of wear metals in your oil, how bad the filter is; nor is that system programmed to account for minimizing hemi tick etc etc.

The entire idea of blackstone labs and other UOAs are to tell you what the computer can't.

 

[azzx]

Full synthetic, @ 5K.
oil is cheaper than premature engine failure!

 

[Papi4baby]

I don’t, oil will last forever, I just switch the filter once a year and then top it off.

 

[skynyed]

Just did my 1st @1022mi. on my 23 5.7. Installed fumoto valve, Mopar filter, Mobil 1 5w20.
When reinstalling the oil fill cap I noticed it says 0w20. Owners manual also says use 0w20.
Currently debating on whether or not I should do it again with 0w20.
Opinions anyone?

 

[Jako]

Just did my 1st @1022mi. on my 23 5.7. Installed fumoto valve, Mopar filter, Mobil 1 5w20.
When reinstalling the oil fill cap I noticed it says 0w20. Owners manual also says use 0w20.
Currently debating on whether or not I should do it again with 0w20.
Opinions anyone?

My 2019 manual and cap say 5w20. I believe it was changed in 2021.
There is more info in the "oil change compilation" thread.

 

[barrak]

Just did my 1st @1022mi. on my 23 5.7. Installed fumoto valve, Mopar filter, Mobil 1 5w20.
When reinstalling the oil fill cap I noticed it says 0w20. Owners manual also says use 0w20.
Currently debating on whether or not I should do it again with 0w20.
Opinions anyone?

I would... in 5,000 miles
I put on the Fumoto F106SX and got a 3/8" ID clear tubing for future oil changes, to bypass the sway bar and the Skeerdy Cat shield.

 

[Dewey]

Just did my 1st @1022mi. on my 23 5.7. Installed fumoto valve, Mopar filter, Mobil 1 5w20.
When reinstalling the oil fill cap I noticed it says 0w20. Owners manual also says use 0w20.
Currently debating on whether or not I should do it again with 0w20.
Opinions anyone?

Your motor is now destroyed. Never gonna run again.

Don’t worry it won’t hurt a thing. I have a bunch of 5w20 left over from my last truck and plan on using it up over the next few oil changes.

 

[SD Rebel]

Just did my 1st @1022mi. on my 23 5.7. Installed fumoto valve, Mopar filter, Mobil 1 5w20.
When reinstalling the oil fill cap I noticed it says 0w20. Owners manual also says use 0w20.
Currently debating on whether or not I should do it again with 0w20.
Opinions anyone?

Nope, fine since it was just a oil spec change, not a engine spec change.

Though I'm wondering if I should switch to 0W-20 as well since all our other vehicles (Chevy Tahoe 6.2L & Toyota C-HR 2.0L) both spec 0W-20, I can just bulk up and use the same PUP 0W-20 across the garage. The Tahoe & RAM have oil left over after buying two 1-gallon jugs, I can use the left over to completely change the oil on our C-HR.

Otherwise I have 3 quarts left over that will just sit there unused since it will be another year before I need to change the oil on my RAM. Not sure I want to use 1 year old oil from a previously opened container that won't be changed again for another year further after that.

 

[skynyed]

Yeah I've decided I'm just going to leave it in.
Probably change it to 0w20 over the summer/fall. Might have 3k miles by then.
Short 5 mi. commute to work and my summer ride is a 2019 Challenger with the 5.7 that takes 5w20. Might do 6kmi between the 2 of them in a year. Oil changes are a yearly thing.
If anyone's interested, Walmart has the 12 qt boxes of oil (Mobil one) for $60. I use a 2 qt. dedicated pitcher for measuring. $10. for a Mopar filter, ziplock baggie and a cold brew. Easy peasy.

 

[Raydar]

Interesting thread.
I used to go by the oil life monitor, until I started hearing about the cam and lifter failures, as applies to our trucks.
I'm going to start changing at ~50%, regardless of miles. (In the past, the monitor has worked out to ~10,000 miles, but I drive a lot less now, and quite a few short trips, so...)
I'm at 44,000 miles. I use Royal Purple full synthetic and good filters. Mobil 1 or Wix, if I can find them.
I have had no cam or lifter issues - or exhaust manifold issues, as far as THAT goes. Knocking on wood.

Edit - For those who want to experiment with thicker oil, I'll mention that in another vehicle I used to own (2004 Trailblazer), I decided to try 10W40 instead of 10W30. (5W30 was recommended, but not widely available at the time.) The oil-pressure-operated VVT solenoid did not like the thicker oil. Actually triggered a Check Engine light for a Cam Phaser Malfunction. Went away when I changed back to the thinner oil. Of course, YMMV.

 

[stevj]

Every 3000 - 5000 miles with Rotella T6 5W-40 and Motorcraft FL-1A filters.


Steve

 

[barrak]

Every 3000 - 5000 miles with Rotella T6 5W-40 and Motorcraft FL-1A filters.
View attachment 173811

Steve

They come in pairs!

 

[Scram1500]

Something's in the coffee, seeing double this morning

 

[1923bob]

I've always changed the oil and filter in my year 2000 Golf TDI every 6 months (approx 5000miles) , always using the correct VW spec oil and OEM filters. Recently I read a couple of threads where folks stated that changing the oil so frequently was unnecessary and that the interval could be pushed to 8000 miles without any additional engine related wear.

So am I overdoing the oil changes and therefore spending money for no good reason? or should I stick with my regime in the knowledge that my engine should last past 100K?

I go every 5,000 it's a 2021 and only have 8.716 on it,