HELP! - Limited DRL LED Accent Light Not Working Only On Drive Side

[Jimmy07]

(I have not yet verified the 15 degree movement of the headights when cornering, but I will. )

If this picture in the product description is correct, then that headlight does not have the steering directed headlamp movement feature, because the circled missing pin is what controls that feature:

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

If this picture in the product description is correct, then that headlight does not have the steering directed headlamp movement feature, because the circled missing pin is what controls that feature:
View attachment 171575

I mean really is that feature necessary lol I never notice it working. But I do notice daily my headlight drl off .

 

[55Trucker]

The picture in that ad is apparently wrong. The first connector picture below is the one on my original. The second is on the Dashbecan knock off I just put in. Maybe they just put the pin in

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

The picture in that ad is apparently wrong. The first connector picture below is the one on my original. The second is on the Dashbecan knock off I just put in. Maybe they just put the pin in

View attachment 171578
View attachment 171579

Can you post a pic of the light installed? No issues with turn signal hyper flashing or anything Ike that? Auto high beam works as expected??

 

[55Trucker]

I will this weekend. When the flashers are on both top LEDs are the same color/brightness of yellow, flashing in sync. When used as a directional, it flashes at the identical rate as the right one. The brightness and color of all LEDs including headlights is indistinguishable from the right one.

 

[55Trucker]

I will this weekend. When the flashers are on both top LEDs are the same color/brightness of yellow, flashing in sync. When used as a directional, it flashes at the identical rate as the right one. The brightness and color of all LEDs including headlights is indistinguishable from the right one.

Here's the DRLs:


Here's the headlights with DRLs:


Here's my best attempt at catching the flasher at it's brightest (couldn't see how to attach a video):

 

[55Trucker]

Here's the DRLs:
View attachment 171700

Here's the headlights with DRLs:
View attachment 171701

Here's my best attempt at catching the flasher at it's brightest (couldn't see how to attach a video):
View attachment 171702

One more thing: this is the only physical difference I see compared to the OEM one: this chrome around the outer headlight does not say "RAM".

 

[E’s 2019 longhorn]

Any updates on this or anyone else having the same issue? My drivers side accent light is doing the same thing. It will flash and then turn off while the passenger side works fine. Dealer declined to cover it under warranty since I had just passed my mileage limit even though the issue happened prior to going out of warranty.

Yes, I’m having the same issue in my 2019 Laramie Longhorn. Drivers side accent light. To LED will light initially then go out. Bottom never lights. The right side is perfect! Dealer quoted me $1600 to do the job. Considering doing it myself. Boy they don’t give these things away do they!

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

One more thing: this is the only physical difference I see compared to the OEM one: this chrome around the outer headlight does not say "RAM".
View attachment 171703

Thank you for sharing those pics!

 

[anmut]

First time post - I also have a 5th gen 2019 Limited with a non-working LED strip on the drivers side. Really annoying for the cost of this truck. Has RAM been involved at all in helping us with an obvious part failure?

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

First time post - I also have a 5th gen 2019 Limited with a non-working LED strip on the drivers side. Really annoying for the cost of this truck. Has RAM been involved at all in helping us with an obvious part failure?

Nope.

 

[anmut]

Well that's BS. Time to call Mopar I guess...

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

Well that's BS. Time to call Mopar I guess...

Go for it and let us know how your discussion went.

 

[luciferlimited]

Hi guys, first post.

2021 Limited. Driver side DRLs not working anymore, it flickers when I turn it on but goes out immediately after. Dealer saying they can't do anything since it's a "bulb". Any recommendations? I don't want to spend $2K on a new assembly since it makes no sense. @RamCares

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

Hi guys, first post.

2021 Limited. Driver side DRLs not working anymore, it flickers when I turn it on but goes out immediately after. Dealer saying they can't do anything since it's a "bulb". Any recommendations? I don't want to spend $2K on a new assembly since it makes no sense. @RamCares
View attachment 172158

Get the housings @55Trucker got!

 

[55Trucker]

In luciferlimited's case it looks like power is getting to the DRL. The LEDs are on the small module on the side of the assembly. The part is 6002TZ0303. I found one on ebay, but it in my case it wasn't my problem. My non-Mopar assembly continues to function great, by the way. I found my replacement on Amazon.

When I have a chance I'll post pictures of both modules. I need to drill out the rivets on the larger one to open it up. The larger one has the stamping "LED Driver" on it, and the smaller one has the LEDs. Also, I noticed when I lost my DRL that I had a tiny bit of condensation inside the lens. Water kills electronics, and since pretty much everyone posting about the issue here has the problem with the driver assembly, I have to wonder if the problem is a sealant or other mechanical drainage issue with only the driver assembly. Did others also find condensation inside of theirs?

I can accept a flaw or two on a $70k truck if the manufacturer admits it and fixes it. This is hardly a wear and tear "bulb problem" issue, and one that should be covered by FCA. But if FCA can mark up an assembly that I can get on Amazon by $1000 and then the dealer charge $500 or more to put it in, I guys it's a pretty profitable defect for them.

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

In luciferlimited's case it looks like power is getting to the DRL. The LEDs are on the small module on the side of the assembly. The part is 6002TZ0303. I found one on ebay, but it in my case it wasn't my problem. My non-Mopar assembly continues to function great, by the way. I found my replacement on Amazon.

When I have a chance I'll post pictures of both modules. I need to drill out the rivets on the larger one to open it up. The larger one has the stamping "LED Driver" on it, and the smaller one has the LEDs. Also, I noticed when I lost my DRL that I had a tiny bit of condensation inside the lens. Water kills electronics, and since pretty much everyone posting about the issue here has the problem with the driver assembly, I have to wonder if the problem is a sealant or other mechanical drainage issue with only the driver assembly. Did others also find condensation inside of theirs?

I can accept a flaw or two on a $70k truck if the manufacturer admits it and fixes it. This is hardly a wear and tear "bulb problem" issue, and one that should be covered by FCA. But if FCA can mark up an assembly that I can get on Amazon by $1000 and then the dealer charge $500 or more to put it in, I guys it's a pretty profitable defect for them.

how are u determining that power is getting to the DRL? The side marker (amber) light is passing through the accent lighting.

My issue is with my passenger assembly lower accent light. I have not noticed moisture in the lens either.

 

[55Trucker]

I'm sorry, I misinterpreted the picture. When mine failed the only LED lighting I had was when I turned the turn signal on, and got the yellow blinking light. From the pic I jumped to the conclusion that the DRL went yellow. My son's Audi A3 has a yellow DRL on the driver's side. In his case it turns out that the LEDs can overheat and burn the end of the light pipe that sends the light into the lens, making it look yellowish before the LEDs burn out entirely.

 

[lisandroravizzini]

I solved the problem!!! A few days ago I detected that the upper DRL light came on and the second it went off and the lower one did not come on in the driver's side headlight. I quoted it at the RAM dealer and here in Chile the Price is US$3,600. We are a motorcycle workshop and with the technician we decided to try to repair it before buying it new.
After searching for information and many tests I solved the problem.
First I tried the headlight from one side to the other and the problem remained in the headlight, therefore it was not a problem with the truck and it was just something with the headlight. Then I tried replacing the balarts from one bulb to another and the problem remained in the bulb, therefore it wasn't the balarts either.
With this information, it was already clear that something was causing the system to detect an electrical short inside the headlight and that is why the upper DRL light came on and immediately went off, and that the lower one did not come on directly.
I removed the module from the side seen in the photo to see if the LEDs worked and there I saw that underneath there was another plate that controlled the light below. We saw that it was screwed as seen in the photo. Therefore we made a hole in the plastic so we could put a torx screwdriver through it and loosen that bolt. Then with a small pliers we extracted the bolt, we took out the little plate that turns on the lower light and we found a loose cable in the white card that connects it, as can be seen in the photo.
This explains that since there is less consumption by not turning on the lower LED, it will cut off the upper one as protection.
What we did was loosen a cable tie that can be seen in one of the photos, which is attached above, and we took the tab outside to repair the cut cable. To work more comfortably, I lengthened the cable and to avoid disassembling the card, I soldered it to the contact of the card without any problems.
Then we reassembled the bottom plate already connected to the tab and put the bolt that holds it. We assembled the module and tested it...and it worked perfectly.
Clearly the problem is with the way the wires go to the plug that connects the lower DRL light plate, which becomes loose and causes this problem.
Good luck with the repair.

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

I solved the problem!!! A few days ago I detected that the upper DRL light came on and the second it went off and the lower one did not come on in the driver's side headlight. I quoted it at the RAM dealer and here in Chile the Price is US$3,600. We are a motorcycle workshop and with the technician we decided to try to repair it before buying it new.
After searching for information and many tests I solved the problem.
First I tried the headlight from one side to the other and the problem remained in the headlight, therefore it was not a problem with the truck and it was just something with the headlight. Then I tried replacing the balarts from one bulb to another and the problem remained in the bulb, therefore it wasn't the balarts either.
With this information, it was already clear that something was causing the system to detect an electrical short inside the headlight and that is why the upper DRL light came on and immediately went off, and that the lower one did not come on directly.
I removed the module from the side seen in the photo to see if the LEDs worked and there I saw that underneath there was another plate that controlled the light below. We saw that it was screwed as seen in the photo. Therefore we made a hole in the plastic so we could put a torx screwdriver through it and loosen that bolt. Then with a small pliers we extracted the bolt, we took out the little plate that turns on the lower light and we found a loose cable in the white card that connects it, as can be seen in the photo.
This explains that since there is less consumption by not turning on the lower LED, it will cut off the upper one as protection.
What we did was loosen a cable tie that can be seen in one of the photos, which is attached above, and we took the tab outside to repair the cut cable. To work more comfortably, I lengthened the cable and to avoid disassembling the card, I soldered it to the contact of the card without any problems.
Then we reassembled the bottom plate already connected to the tab and put the bolt that holds it. We assembled the module and tested it...and it worked perfectly.
Clearly the problem is with the way the wires go to the plug that connects the lower DRL light plate, which becomes loose and causes this problem.
Good luck with the repair.

This is great news and thank you for sharing but unfortunately I’m not following. The pictures are not really helping me any way you took video of this process?