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H/K audio upgrade - VAST Improvment

How long have you had your limited? It took mine almost a month and a half to break in. I unplugged my sub a week after I got it.
Is it necessary to remove the rear seat to unplug the sub? Unfortunately my Rebel has non-reclining seats. Thanks so much.
 
How long have you had your limited? It took mine almost a month and a half to break in. I unplugged my sub a week after I got it.
I've only had it for a few days but I'll be amazed if time makes it sound any better. I had the Subaru Ascent for over two years and there was never any improvement even after several infotainment system updates.

I just can't believe this terrible HK system is sold to multiple car brands as "premium", it's the worst sounding system I've owned. I really can't stand listening to it. The sound is so hollow and harsh. I was so happy to get rid of it on my Ascent only to find it again in my new RAM.
 
I've only had it for a few days but I'll be amazed if time makes it sound any better. I had the Subaru Ascent for over two years and there was never any improvement even after several infotainment system updates.

I just can't believe this terrible HK system is sold to multiple car brands as "premium", it's the worst sounding system I've owned. I really can't stand listening to it. The sound is so hollow and harsh. I was so happy to get rid of it on my Ascent only to find it again in my new RAM.
I’m also an audiophile with a similar sound goal as you. I was surprised when it broke in. There was another thread about the abnormally long break in time. No, it doesn’t make it what it should be, but it is more palatable. As I save my nickels and dimes I will slowly upgrade the system. PAC-AmpPro to get a clean signal from the head and a iDataLink maestro for the DAC (I think that is what it is called)
 
Is it necessary to remove the rear seat to unplug the sub? Unfortunately my Rebel has non-reclining seats. Thanks so much.
I didn’t have to in my limited. There is a string behind the seat, close to the door. Pull it down and the seat can be pulled forward. Look fo other threads I have posted in and you will find details(not mine). Pull the back carpet down. This terrified me as I am not very good at this stuff. Again, see other posts. You will pull the carpet down the side about 1/2 down, you should be able to get to the plug now. Don’t pull the carpet all the way out, evidently there is a clip that is a b*tch to put back in. Took me about 20 minutes because of my nerves. Hope this helps.
 
I've only had it for a few days but I'll be amazed if time makes it sound any better. I had the Subaru Ascent for over two years and there was never any improvement even after several infotainment system updates.

I just can't believe this terrible HK system is sold to multiple car brands as "premium", it's the worst sounding system I've owned. I really can't stand listening to it. The sound is so hollow and harsh. I was so happy to get rid of it on my Ascent only to find it again in my new RAM.
I feel your pain and have been equally disappointed in the way the HK system was tuned, the sub, and the 3 band EQ.
Do yourself a favor and unplug the sub immediately. You won't really miss it and it does open up some mid range because you can finally get your bass slider above '0'. It's not perfect, but it's so much better than with the sub connected. Anyone who doesn't like the boomyness needs to immediately unplug their sub. You'll be glad you did.

I'm thinking the 3 band EQ was done more for a safety measure than cost. Messing with 7 band EQ while driving could be pretty dangerous.

The best sound I can get out of this HK system is by doing the following:
-Unplug Sub
-Fader slightly front
-Surround (hit or miss, I prefer it on)
EQ Settings (roughly)
-Bass +4
-Mid -1
-Treble +4
 
Has anyone tried the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 to replace the Harmon Kardon amp? It sure looks like a viable option and Crutchfield has approved it for the new RAM 1500 with the 12" UConnect and the HK system.


It looks too good to be true. It replaces the HK amp and allows you to completely reprogram the equalization in minute detail. This looks like the answer to me but I'd sure like to know if anyone's tried it before I order one.
 
Has anyone tried the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 to replace the Harmon Kardon amp? It sure looks like a viable option and Crutchfield has approved it for the new RAM 1500 with the 12" UConnect and the HK system.


It looks too good to be true. It replaces the HK amp and allows you to completely reprogram the equalization in minute detail. This looks like the answer to me but I'd sure like to know if anyone's tried it before I order one.
So do you also need to install an aftermarket amp in tandem with this product or does it simply replace the existing amp and wattage?
 
I’m also an audiophile with a similar sound goal as you. I was surprised when it broke in. There was another thread about the abnormally long break in time. No, it doesn’t make it what it should be, but it is more palatable. As I save my nickels and dimes I will slowly upgrade the system. PAC-AmpPro to get a clean signal from the head and a iDataLink maestro for the DAC (I think that is what it is called)
i decided to save myself some headache.and just use the "AmpPro"(but thats me).i just used a 5ch amp.and added a "HomeMade"sub box.dont why ppl have to disconnect the stock sub.i didnt.i just use the amp to power my "HomeMade"sub.IMHO;)
 

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I have a 2021 Rebel and for the life of me, I can't figure how to access the sub behind the rear passenger seat. I would greatly appreciate any help I can get.
 
I have a 2021 Rebel and for the life of me, I can't figure how to access the sub behind the rear passenger seat. I would greatly appreciate any help I can get.
Since our rear seats don’t recline i believe complete unbolting is the only option.
 
Has anyone tried the Rockford Fosgate DSR1 to replace the Harmon Kardon amp? It sure looks like a viable option and Crutchfield has approved it for the new RAM 1500 with the 12" UConnect and the HK system.


It looks too good to be true. It replaces the HK amp and allows you to completely reprogram the equalization in minute detail. This looks like the answer to me but I'd sure like to know if anyone's tried it before I order one.
Thanks for posting this! It's triggered me to do some research into this new age car audio as the last time I did anything it was RCA cables out of the head unit and that's it.

So it seems this unit combines a idatalink Maestro unit with a PAC AMP pro to provide RCA outputs directly out of the unit and also have DSP built in. From my quick hour read so far the reason to get this would be if you're planning on running an amp without DSP built into it (Only RCA level inputs).

I think I'm looking for exactly what you're looking for. Meaning before I start changing out speakers I want to get the existing speakers to sounds as good as they can with proper tuning.

So it looks like I am leaning towards:

- Maestro AR (Provides clean Datalink signal to DSP aftermarket amp)
- New DSP Aftermarket amplifier (The amp allows to tune all the parameters for each speaker output with software)

Use these to replace the factory amp and hopefully be able to fit everything in the existing location of the factory amp and also not have to cut any factory wiring with the proper harnesses thsmat are available.

Any up to date audio heads can chime in on if this looks like a solid planand maybe some amp/part recommendations?
 
Since our rear seats don’t recline i believe complete unbolting is the only option.
Search the HK threads to find out how to get to your sub.
Your seatbacks do unlock and come forward. There's a string behind each one that if you pull it away from you (toward the outside of the truck) it releases the latch.
 
Search the HK threads to find out how to get to your sub.
Your seatbacks do unlock and come forward. There's a string behind each one that if you pull it away from you (toward the outside of the truck) it releases the latch.
Only the reclining seats have this easy access pull loop. Standard seats do not.
 
So do you also need to install an aftermarket amp in tandem with this product or does it simply replace the existing amp and wattage?
With the Rockford Fosgate/Maestro AR system, you have to replace the amp. See my next post below.
 
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Thanks for posting this! It's triggered me to do some research into this new age car audio as the last time I did anything it was RCA cables out of the head unit and that's it.

So it seems this unit combines a idatalink Maestro unit with a PAC AMP pro to provide RCA outputs directly out of the unit and also have DSP built in. From my quick hour read so far the reason to get this would be if you're planning on running an amp without DSP built into it (Only RCA level inputs).

I think I'm looking for exactly what you're looking for. Meaning before I start changing out speakers I want to get the existing speakers to sounds as good as they can with proper tuning.

So it looks like I am leaning towards:

- Maestro AR (Provides clean Datalink signal to DSP aftermarket amp)
- New DSP Aftermarket amplifier (The amp allows to tune all the parameters for each speaker output with software)

Use these to replace the factory amp and hopefully be able to fit everything in the existing location of the factory amp and also not have to cut any factory wiring with the proper harnesses thsmat are available.

Any up to date audio heads can chime in on if this looks like a solid planand maybe some amp/part recommendations?
The Rockford Fosgate/Maestro AR system is not quite like the PAC Amp Pro. The PAC Amp Pro does not include a DSP and allows you to use the factory amp and/or an external amp if you want. The Rockford Fosgate/Maestro AR system does include a highly configurable DSP but you have to provide your own external amp(s). So, you select one or the other depending upon your overall goals.

This excellent video better explains the differences:

 
For what it's worth, the factory sub can be made to sound pretty good by driving it from a different amp.

I installed a factory alpine sub in my 21 rebel with the base 6 speaker system. From my research both the alpine and HK sub are very similar if not the same. They are both three 2.2 ohm voice coils. The difference is the alpine system has a separate channel for each voice coil on the oem amp while the HK system runs the coils in parallel into a single channel on the amp.

I am running mine from a Kicker CXA 400.1 with the 3 coils in parallel. This allows the bass to be lowered on the head unit eq to clear up the muddy sound on the other speaker locations. Then you can adjust the bass boost on the amp itself so the sub fills in the lows to your liking. It would be very easy to do if you already have the HK or alpine since you could feed the additional separate amp high level inputs from the factory amp.

My setup will not shake any house windows or set off car alarms. But it surpassed what the B&O system sounded like in the 18 F150 I traded in.
 
guess i'm in the minority, cuz I think the H/K system sounds great. Of course I only turn the volume to 12, maybe 14 at most. my EQ is set at -3 bass, +3 mid and +3 treb
 

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