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H/K audio upgrade - VAST Improvment

JustCallMeD

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For what it's worth, the factory sub can be made to sound pretty good by driving it from a different amp.

I installed a factory alpine sub in my 21 rebel with the base 6 speaker system. From my research both the alpine and HK sub are very similar if not the same. They are both three 2.2 ohm voice coils. The difference is the alpine system has a separate channel for each voice coil on the oem amp while the HK system runs the coils in parallel into a single channel on the amp.

I am running mine from a Kicker CXA 400.1 with the 3 coils in parallel. This allows the bass to be lowered on the head unit eq to clear up the muddy sound on the other speaker locations. Then you can adjust the bass boost on the amp itself so the sub fills in the lows to your liking. It would be very easy to do if you already have the HK or alpine since you could feed the additional separate amp high level inputs from the factory amp.

My setup will not shake any house windows or set off car alarms. But it surpassed what the B&O system sounded like in the 18 F150 I traded in.
Did you run a new power line or use something that was already there? I'm planning on the system now and wondering if there is available power behind the seats possibly from the etorque system if not being used?
 

Kdixer

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Did you run a new power line or use something that was already there? I'm planning on the system now and wondering if there is available power behind the seats possibly from the etorque system if not being used?
I ran dedicated power from a stud on the fuse box under the hood. Ran ground to one of the existing studs near the rear wall.
 

Ramtrx

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I installed the dsr1 in place of factory amp. I have the alpine 9 speaker set up. I added two amps, 3 dash,4 door and 2 rear headliner. Also two subs. All new wire. I’m very happy.
 

392DCGC

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Does your setup allow you to keep ANC?
Yes, only for the 6x9 door speakers, but it still works well. I ran this same frankenstein factory sub setup for awhile, but just put a 10" Rockford Fosgate powered sub under the seat which can be easily removed if I need the space.
 

Diamondback

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For anyone reading this thread that doesn't want to go the extra mile like some are, if you just unplug your sub on the stock H/K system it's like a 100% improvement in sound. With the POS sub out of the picture the door 6x9's have plenty of bass and you can actually use the bass slider on your EQ. Just sayin.
- Yeah, if you had read my test posts, I agree and said the same thing .. Even the HIGHs came in so loud I had to readjust the EQ.

For what it's worth, the factory sub can be made to sound pretty good by driving it from a different amp.
- Or even wrapping with some nice sound deadener ..
 

jastevenson

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I didn’t have to in my limited. There is a string behind the seat, close to the door. Pull it down and the seat can be pulled forward. Look fo other threads I have posted in and you will find details(not mine). Pull the back carpet down. This terrified me as I am not very good at this stuff. Again, see other posts. You will pull the carpet down the side about 1/2 down, you should be able to get to the plug now. Don’t pull the carpet all the way out, evidently there is a clip that is a b*tch to put back in. Took me about 20 minutes because of my nerves. Hope this helps.
I hear you about the nerves! I am trying to do this now but am terrified of hurting my brand new vehicle!

Two questions:
1) How many of the circular black plastic pushpin-type “buttons” did you have to pull out before getting to the sub? I’ve pulled out one, not sure if I need to pull out more.

2) Do I need to detach the passenger side edge of the back wall carpet from the C pillar trim on the passenger side of the car (so that I can pull down the entire corner of the carpet?)

I have read the other threads but this part is unclear to me and I don’t want to damage anything!
 

William1034

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I hear you about the nerves! I am trying to do this now but am terrified of hurting my brand new vehicle!

Two questions:
1) How many of the circular black plastic pushpin-type “buttons” did you have to pull out before getting to the sub? I’ve pulled out one, not sure if I need to pull out more.

2) Do I need to detach the passenger side edge of the back wall carpet from the C pillar trim on the passenger side of the car (so that I can pull down the entire corner of the carpet?)

I have read the other threads but this part is unclear to me and I don’t want to damage anything!
I did have to pull the carpet part way down the C pillar. I only went as far as I needed to. I don’t remember how many buttons I removed. I just pulled carpet down a little at a time until I could unplug the sub.
Good luck.
 

Ramtrx

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The carpet is basically set in there. You can pull it back and push it right back where it was when you started. Also you can remove the whole back panel with removing 4 clips I believe. Makes it easier to access.
 

texasaftermath76

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I just got done doing some upgrades to my audio system and figured I'd throw the info out there in case there was interest.

To start, I have a 2020 Limited with H/K. I can't believe they would put a system in that level of truck that sounded that bad. The subwoofer is a piece of garbage - and the tuning of it is no better. The engineers should be ashamed of themselves. A testament to marketing - 19 speakers my rear. The rest of the system is ok at best.

The items I installed are:
Pac AP4-CH41
7 Ea. Faital Pro 3FE22 - 3" wide band driver
4 CDT Audio CL69S - 6x9 Midbass
2 JL 13TW5 subs
JL 1200/1 amp
MTI Sub box - The first stage one box built by them - mine is the actual box on their website.

I am currently using the factory amp to run the mids / highs. The factory sub was unplugged. I took alot of time to reasearch speakers and found the Faital Pro's to be a great match for the factory amp. They are very efficient and 4 ohm. I had to cut one of the tabs off and adjust the screw holes to make them fit right, but not alot of work. They sound great!

I added the subs and amp next. I probably would not have done anything this big, but since I already had the equipment it worked out perfect. Needless to say - I have plenty of bass. Box is VERY well made and worth the money. I somehow managed to get 0 ga into the cab and hidden under carpet to under the back seat.

The last thing I added were the CDT 6x9's. These made a HUGE difference in the sound. Tons of midbass. Music has impact now that it never did before. They dropped right in without issue.

Overall, I am very happy with the stereo now. It sounds REALLY good. By using the factory amp, I have kept all of the functionality of the original system and improved the sound immensely. The efficiency of the Faital's actually make the system louder. At some point I will probably do a DSP and upgrade further, but for now the stereo is perfect.
What did you do about the highs? Did you keep the factory tweeters?
 

Nsm42

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Anyone know if the Metra 72-7902 harness that’s used for the front dash speakers will also work on the rear headliner speakers? Thanks so much.
 

patriot_tech

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What did you do about the highs? Did you keep the factory tweeters?
Sorry, just saw this - The faital's are playing full range on the upper end. There are no tweeters. i'm probably missing some 'sparkle' on the top end, but it sounds very good to me as is.
 

Rmazzei

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I just got done doing some upgrades to my audio system and figured I'd throw the info out there in case there was interest.

To start, I have a 2020 Limited with H/K. I can't believe they would put a system in that level of truck that sounded that bad. The subwoofer is a piece of garbage - and the tuning of it is no better. The engineers should be ashamed of themselves. A testament to marketing - 19 speakers my rear. The rest of the system is ok at best.

The items I installed are:
Pac AP4-CH41
7 Ea. Faital Pro 3FE22 - 3" wide band driver
4 CDT Audio CL69S - 6x9 Midbass
2 JL 13TW5 subs
JL 1200/1 amp
MTI Sub box - The first stage one box built by them - mine is the actual box on their website.

I am currently using the factory amp to run the mids / highs. The factory sub was unplugged. I took alot of time to reasearch speakers and found the Faital Pro's to be a great match for the factory amp. They are very efficient and 4 ohm. I had to cut one of the tabs off and adjust the screw holes to make them fit right, but not alot of work. They sound great!

I added the subs and amp next. I probably would not have done anything this big, but since I already had the equipment it worked out perfect. Needless to say - I have plenty of bass. Box is VERY well made and worth the money. I somehow managed to get 0 ga into the cab and hidden under carpet to under the back seat.

The last thing I added were the CDT 6x9's. These made a HUGE difference in the sound. Tons of midbass. Music has impact now that it never did before. They dropped right in without issue.

Overall, I am very happy with the stereo now. It sounds REALLY good. By using the factory amp, I have kept all of the functionality of the original system and improved the sound immensely. The efficiency of the Faital's actually make the system louder. At some point I will probably do a DSP and upgrade further, but for now the stereo is perfect.
Where did you install the Faital Pro 3FE22? I assume three dash and two rear headliner. Where are the other two? Upper front doors?
 

Rmazzei

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I just got done doing some upgrades to my audio system and figured I'd throw the info out there in case there was interest.

To start, I have a 2020 Limited with H/K. I can't believe they would put a system in that level of truck that sounded that bad. The subwoofer is a piece of garbage - and the tuning of it is no better. The engineers should be ashamed of themselves. A testament to marketing - 19 speakers my rear. The rest of the system is ok at best.

The items I installed are:
Pac AP4-CH41
7 Ea. Faital Pro 3FE22 - 3" wide band driver
4 CDT Audio CL69S - 6x9 Midbass
2 JL 13TW5 subs
JL 1200/1 amp
MTI Sub box - The first stage one box built by them - mine is the actual box on their website.

I am currently using the factory amp to run the mids / highs. The factory sub was unplugged. I took alot of time to reasearch speakers and found the Faital Pro's to be a great match for the factory amp. They are very efficient and 4 ohm. I had to cut one of the tabs off and adjust the screw holes to make them fit right, but not alot of work. They sound great!

I added the subs and amp next. I probably would not have done anything this big, but since I already had the equipment it worked out perfect. Needless to say - I have plenty of bass. Box is VERY well made and worth the money. I somehow managed to get 0 ga into the cab and hidden under carpet to under the back seat.

The last thing I added were the CDT 6x9's. These made a HUGE difference in the sound. Tons of midbass. Music has impact now that it never did before. They dropped right in without issue.

Overall, I am very happy with the stereo now. It sounds REALLY good. By using the factory amp, I have kept all of the functionality of the original system and improved the sound immensely. The efficiency of the Faital's actually make the system louder. At some point I will probably do a DSP and upgrade further, but for now the stereo is perfect.
few questions on your 6X9 choice. Do you need the sub 3" mounting depth is that that why you went with a slim speaker? I was thinking of using the HD-690CFX which needs 3.5". IF sub 3" is needed did you consider the HD-690CFS which is more mid/low as I assume the upper door 3" would handle the mid/high? Thanks
 

Schwartz36

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I read in one forum on this board that lining the factory sub with a polyfill or something like that helped with the bass. Would you also recommend as an inexpensive mod?

patriot_tech: Polyfill helps by making the speaker act as though it is in a bigger enclosure. I think the HK sub is worthless, but I did not try the polyfill. Try it and let us know your

I stuffed my sub box pretty full with polyfill this week. Also coated it front and back with 80mil sound deadening sheets.

There “is” (channeling Bill Clinton here) an audible difference but I wouldn’t say that it sounds any better. Sill the same awful boost as described in this thread. Just a little bit quieter. I’d best describe it as moving the bass EQ about 4 or 5 clicks. Definitely not a fix by any means.

From everything I’ve been reading on this site and my personal experience in my truck, I believe this is a DSP/EQ issue. Anything we do to improve the sub SQ is limited unless the factory amp is bypassed. My $0.02.

For my ear, disconnecting the sub has been the best low/no cost solution. Looking at the CDT door speakers next. Would love to hear more from other members that have installed CDT’s with no sub. Thanks!
 

Buz

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I stuffed my sub box pretty full with polyfill this week. Also coated it front and back with 80mil sound deadening sheets.

There “is” (channeling Bill Clinton here) an audible difference but I wouldn’t say that it sounds any better. Sill the same awful boost as described in this thread. Just a little bit quieter. I’d best describe it as moving the bass EQ about 4 or 5 clicks. Definitely not a fix by any means.

From everything I’ve been reading on this site and my personal experience in my truck, I believe this is a DSP/EQ issue. Anything we do to improve the sub SQ is limited unless the factory amp is bypassed. My $0.02.

For my ear, disconnecting the sub has been the best low/no cost solution. Looking at the CDT door speakers next. Would love to hear more from other members that have installed CDT’s with no sub. Thanks!
LOL. I did the same thing overstuffing the sub with polyfil. Made it worse actually.
Just unplug your sub, be done with it, and enjoy the best sound that HK is ever going provide without expensive modifications.
Once the sub is unplugged set your EQ to roughly +4 Bass, 0 Mid, +4 Treble and enjoy.
 
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