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Front end clunk while turning - FIXED - TSB # 23-047-18

Hey y'all ... well a few weeks in and about 1,000 miles and low and behold ... I have the "clunk" in the front driver's footwell area when making turns, happens a few times a day. Bummed.

7-18 build date.

I can say with a fair confidence that mine has finally been resolved. Let me know if you want to schedule a service appointment with your dealer and I can provide part numbers
 
Everyone should try what 19Ramlimited and I did that work before they waste their time with the dealer. It will take no more than 30 mins of your time compared to the time wasted with multiple trips to the dealer.
 
Now the reason the noise exists in my opinion is if you look at the pic I posted the threaded plate is basically metal to metal. It is spot welded in a few spots. What’s happening is as the isolator compresses it pushes the bolt up thus pushing on the threaded bracket. The threaded bracket is moving up and down hitting the metal making the noise.

The increased torque creates more pressure on the bracket and causing less potential isolator compression.

I have been quiet for a week or so to avoid getting caught up in debates. Everyone seems to have their own opinions and that should be allowed. I'll say this -----------your explanation is what I would tell anyone the issue truly is (for me). Yes, I did go to the dealer and I got new absorbers, isolators and screw hex flange heads. I shared those part numbers pages ago. Immersivenc had those same parts installed and his clunk has been fixed.

But here was the kicker for mine. My tech added some foam tape of some sort. He said the metal on metal was the biggest issue, in his opinion on mine. Said it was being pushed up and making contact and that's what I was hearing. Seems you addressed the issue by snugging things up good enough to stop that contact. For me, he addressed the same issue .........but by way of adding foam first. I'm not sure if he torqued more than specified afterwards.

All of that to say, if I had to explain the clunk to anyone I personally know ............I'd tell them to address the contact that's happening. Great job 19RamLimited on you tracking down the issue.

I feel badly for those who have service departments telling them that there is no issue or no known issue. Mine is constantly talking to Star folks discussing this very issue and different ways to fix it. My tech comes out and actually talks to me and explains things.

Again............thanks for sharing your fix 19RamLimited. So far, I'm clunk free but truthfully ---------if it comes back, I'm not worried about it. Mine is so low and infrequent and I can't even hear it if I just turn the music up a tad bit.
 
I have been quiet for a week or so to avoid getting caught up in debates. Everyone seems to have their own opinions and that should be allowed. I'll say this -----------your explanation is what I would tell anyone the issue truly is (for me). Yes, I did go to the dealer and I got new absorbers, isolators and screw hex flange heads. I shared those part numbers pages ago. Immersivenc had those same parts installed and his clunk has been fixed.

But here was the kicker for mine. My tech added some foam tape of some sort. He said the metal on metal was the biggest issue, in his opinion on mine. Said it was being pushed up and making contact and that's what I was hearing. Seems you addressed the issue by snugging things up good enough to stop that contact. For me, he addressed the same issue .........but by way of adding foam first. I'm not sure if he torqued more than specified afterwards.

All of that to say, if I had to explain the clunk to anyone I personally know ............I'd tell them to address the contact that's happening. Great job 19RamLimited on you tracking down the issue.

I feel badly for those who have service departments telling them that there is no issue or no known issue. Mine is constantly talking to Star folks discussing this very issue and different ways to fix it. My tech comes out and actually talks to me and explains things.

Again............thanks for sharing your fix 19RamLimited. So far, I'm clunk free but truthfully ---------if it comes back, I'm not worried about it. Mine is so low and infrequent and I can't even hear it if I just turn the music up a tad bit.
Thank you. I appreciate it.

I honestly never was trying to say anyone is wrong. I just say the common denominator of all instances is the removal of the bolts and re-torque. So is it a coincidence that the noise is gone with parts being replaced? Because the bolt is being torqued. The Bolt part number to be clear is non revised. AA is the first version. AB is a revision. So the Isolators are revised.

Either way I just wanted a fix that we knew was a fix. Not pissing match. because there are people that live HOURS away from a dealer and do not have access to other cars to drive while theirs is at the dealer.

Good luck to all in their search for a fix and I hope you get it resolved.
 
Thank you. I appreciate it.

I honestly never was trying to say anyone is wrong. I just say the common denominator of all instances is the removal of the bolts and re-torque. So is it a coincidence that the noise is gone with parts being replaced? Because the bolt is being torqued. The Bolt part number to be clear is non revised. AA is the first version. AB is a revision. So the Isolators are revised.

Either way I just wanted a fix that we knew was a fix. Not pissing match. because there are people that live HOURS away from a dealer and do not have access to other cars to drive while theirs is at the dealer.

Good luck to all in their search for a fix and I hope you get it resolved.

Probably a coincidence in my case.........I think it had more to do with re-torqued. But I'm quiet as a mouse and resolved. Things are good. I've jumped my truck off of 10 curves at 100 angles, and no clunk (just kidding) lol

hey what was the original torque specification ...I notice you did 90 and said you 'increased' .........prob what my tech did too
 
Probably a coincidence in my case.........I think it had more to do with re-torqued. But I'm quiet as a mouse and resolved. Things are good. I've jumped my truck off of 10 curves at 100 angles, and no clunk (just kidding) lol

hey what was the original torque specification ...I notice you did 90 and said you 'increased' .........prob what my tech did too
Just 2 foot pounds. I said it because some may not have a super accurate torque wrench. Mine is digital snap on so I can do torque to angle and all kinds of things. I was just rounding it up basically for those that may have a less precise torque wrench. I did 90 on mine. It’s fine.
 
@19RamLimited When putting them back in you have said you used lube and thread lock. Are you lubing the whole bolt and locking the whole bolt?
 
@19RamLimited When putting them back in you have said you used lube and thread lock. Are you lubing the whole bolt and locking the whole bolt?
Honestly not sure how well the thread lock will work because I am sure I got wd40 on threads. So not sure how well thread lock will cure in that situation. I still haven't had a noise though. I drove it a lot today too.
 
Honestly not sure how well the thread lock will work because I am sure I got wd40 on threads. So not sure how well thread lock will cure in that situation. I still haven't had a noise though. I drove it a lot today too.
Hope they dont fall out :X
 
Has anyone completed a nice write up with pictures yet?
 
Has anyone completed a nice write up with pictures yet?
All the info is here. Find the isolaters (pics are in the thread) everything else should be common sense.. Back out, clean, lube, install, torque to 90. I got under the truck earlier and the isolaters are easily identified.

Amazing how 4 bolts can cause so much headache. Then I look at my kids and remember how much trouble 2 nuts got me into.
 
Take pics. I'm trying to find someone around here that sells torque lube... Not much luck so far.
If you use wd40 should be fine.. Some kind of lubricant where the head and washer meet. ARP bolts makes it and it's 3.99 summit racing has it.
 
Is that a subtle critique of post # 556, or did you just not catch up on reading yet? ;) This is admittedly a really long thread.


:LOL::ROFLMAO: You crack me up Ed.

It's on my next nice day list!
 
If you use wd40 should be fine.. Some kind of lubricant where the head and washer meet. ARP bolts makes it and it's 3.99 summit racing has it.

Yeah. I just realized I don't have an 18mm socket. and my torque wrench isnt strong enough. /sigh
 
Just did the one on the driver's side underneath driver's feet. Mine was definitely not torqued to 90 ft/lbs. It had the stickiness of the locktite but was nowhere near hard enough to remove for 90. I cleaned it all off and put red locktite back on it and torqued to 90 ft/lbs. Much more torque than was required to remove it.
I'll report back after driving.
 
My clunk is totally unaffected by the removal, cleaning, and proper re-torquing of the bolt, even though I'm convinced it was not properly torqued to begin with. So the only real difference between what I tried and what @19RamLimited did was the thorough lubrication. Frankly, I didn't see how that would make a difference but either it must or there is some other variable at play.
 
My clunk is totally unaffected by the removal, cleaning, and proper re-torquing of the bolt, even though I'm convinced it was not properly torqued to begin with. So the only real difference between what I tried and what @19RamLimited did was the thorough lubrication. Frankly, I didn't see how that would make a difference but either it must or there is some other variable at play.
Well I believe the dealers are replacing the isolators and bolts. It’s a hardware issue
 

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