Front end clunk while turning - FIXED - TSB # 23-047-18

[MopaRAMan]

Oddly, my truck hasn't made the clunk for a couple weeks now. Over the first couple weeks I heard it half a dozen times. To me it sounded and felt like the bottom of a metal gas can that pops when it cools down at the end of the day.

For those that hear it often, will driving over an uneven surface very slowly at an angle produce the thunk?

Thinking about the possibility that the no load isolator is by design, this frame could flex quite a bit and then stiffen back up quickly. If the body mount on the cab isn't reinforced properly, the frame could be pulling down on the cab which could create a senerio similar to the bottom of a gas can popping back to the relaxed state after the weight of the frame releases tension on the body. It could be the mount isolator has too little free play or the cab has too little reinforcement around the mount. If it happens when there is very slow movement of the cab, that would potentially point to the possibility that stored energy was released at once verse the cab slamming back down. Sound plausible to anyone?

 

[MopaRAMan]

One possible test for this theory would be at add a few thick washers in between the lower bushing that fit inside the lower bushing. This would allow more free play.

 

[SpeedyV]

Mine has this clunk (I think), but it's not loud at all and doesn't happen all the time for me. Ironically, my old GMC has a similar behavior...but in that case, it's because a cross brace in the frame was bolted instead of welded at the factory, allowing too much flex (according to an ancient TSB). The issue in the Ram is much quieter, so I can be patient until this issue has been fully sorted out with our new trucks.

 

[ExcursionDiesel]

Because it’s not a part issue. It’s a stamping of the body problem. There’s a couple spots where parts of the body get spot welded together and it leaves a high spot in the channel. Causing contact with the reinforcement bracket.

Sounds like the hammer method is the best fix. Pound those high spots flat. End of story.

 

[Delmonico_19]

I looked at mine and didn’t see any witness marks. There was no paint rubbed or anything.

I don’t know if you can get your hands on the revised isolators or not and if you can see which ones they suggest get replaced. Because they have revised the isolators as evidence from the AB part numbers

The paint is not rubbing off the bracket side. It’s on the body side. Sometimes it’s just discoloration in the spot. Also if it hasn’t done it long enough it won’t be as noticeable. I can’t get the isolators without a customers vehicle needing them. Our parts department won’t just stock a part like that. The isolators of concern for this noise is the a-pillar ones.

 

[immersivenc]

I have just received my truck back from a lengthy stay at the dealership to repair my oil leak and revisit the clunking. Service ticket for the clunk indicates 2x isolators and 2x absorbers as well as 2x bolts were replaced. I have been clunk free since picking it up and will report back if I do hear anything.

 

[19RamLimited]

Well guys here is my input on it. I had been still having the noise occasionally. So once delmonico19 gave me torpid specs of 88 ft pounds I tightened all 4 to that. Noise is gone. So what this leads me to believe you can take it for what it’s worth is it’s all a coincidence. Because when you replace the isolator you and the noise is gone I thinks it’s actually from tightening the isolator bolt properly.

This was mentioned in a post before but I think they just are not tightening the bolts enough.

Call me crazy but I have not replaced anything and once I torqued the four bolts my noise is gone.

So that’s my finding for what it’s worth. So since they have red lock tight and are next to impossible to get out you’ll have to take them out and then run them back in to be able to torque them correctly

I honestly have done so much and have been open about what I’ve done and this actually took care of it .

I’d like to see if anyone else would be willing to try it ..

 

[Grinnin]

Oddly, my truck hasn't made the clunk for a couple weeks now. Over the first couple weeks I heard it half a dozen times. To me it sounded and felt like the bottom of a metal gas can that pops when it cools down at the end of the day.

For those that hear it often, will driving over an uneven surface very slowly at an angle produce the thunk?

Thinking about the possibility that the no load isolator is by design, this frame could flex quite a bit and then stiffen back up quickly. If the body mount on the cab isn't reinforced properly, the frame could be pulling down on the cab which could create a senerio similar to the bottom of a gas can popping back to the relaxed state after the weight of the frame releases tension on the body. It could be the mount isolator has too little free play or the cab has too little reinforcement around the mount. If it happens when there is very slow movement of the cab, that would potentially point to the possibility that stored energy was released at once verse the cab slamming back down. Sound plausible to anyone?

I think your description is similar to how I view the situation, maybe minus the stored energy piece.

IMHO the clunk occurs when the load on the frame is high relative to one of the corners of the cab. Which when you think about it puts a lot of pressure on one of the four isolators. Which is why for me I’ll hear the clunk when going over a bump (like the curb going into my driveway) while turning or at an angle. But won’t hear it when hitting it straight.

So I guess I think of it kind of like those isolators are like the suspension, just between the frame and cab instead of frame and road.

As a result, to your point, driving very slowly over a bump that normally causes the clunk doesn’t cause it, as this isn’t fast enough to “bottom out” the cab to frame suspension (isolators).

 

[TurdFerguson]

Well guys here is my input on it. I had been still having the noise occasionally. So once delmonico19 gave me torpid specs of 88 ft pounds I tightened all 4 to that. Noise is gone. So what this leads me to believe you can take it for what it’s worth is it’s all a coincidence. Because when you replace the isolator you and the noise is gone I thinks it’s actually from tightening the isolator bolt properly.

This was mentioned in a post before but I think they just are not tightening the bolts enough.

Call me crazy but I have not replaced anything and once I torqued the four bolts my noise is gone.

So that’s my finding for what it’s worth. So since they have red lock tight and are next to impossible to get out you’ll have to take them out and then run them back in to be able to torque them correctly

I honestly have done so much and have been open about what I’ve done and this actually took care of it .

I’d like to see if anyone else would be willing to try it ..

Throw some pics and directions.. I may take a crack at it.

 

[19RamLimited]

Throw some pics and directions.. I may take a crack at it.

Ok.

Just more to my reasoning . The noise I believe is being made from the nut built into the body for the isolator bolt. What is happening is as the body flexes during a turn the nut is moving causing the noise. As you tighten the bolt it applies more pressure to the nut keeping it in place not moving. The nut is free in there for easy replacement if a body bolt were to rust or break for service you place a new one in and off you go.

I have been driving my truck all day today and not one clunk. I would had easily had it over the road I’ve been driving and turning onto.

I really think the fix is to torque the bolts to proper spec. The 4 of them that are 18mm

 

[iceorphen]

Ok.

Just more to my reasoning . The noise I believe is being made from the nut built into the body for the isolator bolt. What is happening is as the body flexes during a turn the nut is moving causing the noise. As you tighten the bolt it applies more pressure to the nut keeping it in place not moving. The nut is free in there for easy replacement if a body bolt were to rust or break for service you place a new one in and off you go.

I have been driving my truck all day today and not one clunk. I would had easily had it over the road I’ve been driving and turning onto.

I really think the fix is to torque the bolts to proper spec. The 4 of them that are 18mm

This is what they told me they did to fix mine, although my truck is still in for the rough start issue so I cant confirm its fixed.

 

[Delmonico_19]

I 100% know that tr

Ok.

Just more to my reasoning . The noise I believe is being made from the nut built into the body for the isolator bolt. What is happening is as the body flexes during a turn the nut is moving causing the noise. As you tighten the bolt it applies more pressure to the nut keeping it in place not moving. The nut is free in there for easy replacement if a body bolt were to rust or break for service you place a new one in and off you go.

I have been driving my truck all day today and not one clunk. I would had easily had it over the road I’ve been driving and turning onto.

I really think the fix is to torque the bolts to proper spec. The 4 of them that are 18mm

I can say 100% certain that just a torque would not have fixed mine because I did torque mine and it never changed. So I kindly disagree that it is the fix just to torque them. I’m certain the star publication I performed on my truck corrected my truck.

 

[iceorphen]

I 100% know that tr
I can say 100% certain that just a torque would not have fixed mine because I did torque mine and it never changed. So I kindly disagree that it is the fix just to torque them. I’m certain the star publication I performed on my truck corrected my truck.

You have the # for that so I can inform my service guys?

 

[Delmonico_19]

You have the # for that so I can inform my service guys?

Go up in the comments.

 

[cc_ram_limited]

Local Dealer said they can’t look up a star report unless it was done by local dealer???? One tech advised that info made sense, other not so sure. Advised they needed at least a day but would figure out problem when I printed out and showed them forum info and they said they couldn’t order parts until they were sure that’s what it was. Said they would put me in a rental charged to warranty so hope they can fix it quickly!

 

[Polaris Man]

I 100% know that tr
I can say 100% certain that just a torque would not have fixed mine because I did torque mine and it never changed. So I kindly disagree that it is the fix just to torque them. I’m certain the star publication I performed on my truck corrected my truck.

Torquing mine hasn't helped at all either.

 

[Polaris Man]

Local Dealer said they can’t look up a star report unless it was done by local dealer???? One tech advised that info made sense, other not so sure. Advised they needed at least a day but would figure out problem when I printed out and showed them forum info and they said they couldn’t order parts until they were sure that’s what it was. Said they would put me in a rental charged to warranty so hope they can fix it quickly!

Good luck, I have had 3 rentals without being even 1% closer (by my dealer) to having the problem figured out.

 

[MopaRAMan]

I think your description is similar to how I view the situation, maybe minus the stored energy piece.

IMHO the clunk occurs when the load on the frame is high relative to one of the corners of the cab. Which when you think about it puts a lot of pressure on one of the four isolators. Which is why for me I’ll hear the clunk when going over a bump (like the curb going into my driveway) while turning or at an angle. But won’t hear it when hitting it straight.

So I guess I think of it kind of like those isolators are like the suspension, just between the frame and cab instead of frame and road.

As a result, to your point, driving very slowly over a bump that normally causes the clunk doesn’t cause it, as this isn’t fast enough to “bottom out” the cab to frame suspension (isolators).

Can you tell if the clunk is during compression of the isolator while still on the bump or immediately after while the isolator is decompressing?

 

[Delmonico_19]

Local Dealer said they can’t look up a star report unless it was done by local dealer???? One tech advised that info made sense, other not so sure. Advised they needed at least a day but would figure out problem when I printed out and showed them forum info and they said they couldn’t order parts until they were sure that’s what it was. Said they would put me in a rental charged to warranty so hope they can fix it quickly!

They can see a star publication. They can’t see a star case.

 

[19RamLimited]

If you tried to torque without taking them out then you aren’t retorting them because the red lock tite. You really need to take them out and use a torque lube on the head.

If you didn’t break the red loctite you didn’t do anything