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For those with 6 speaker base stereo who have upgraded-What speaker did you use?

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Hi - what a great topic and detailed, helpful, discussion! I think I read through almost every post - but my question anyway - can someone please provide a link to the exact speaker & source for these Faital speakers? I'm asking as I've done several Amazon/Google searches and I am consistently getting returns for only a 4ohm speaker. I've yet to find a link to a store that I can buy an 8ohm.

Also, the questions about the CDT 6x9 speakers. Are these to upgrade the front door speakers? Anything specific why these are better "paired/suited" than say any of the Kicker 6x9s?

I've had Ram's before, and I know the front door mounting is very shallow and I've put in Kicker's previously. However those trucks all had the Alpine system (bleh).

This is my first 6 speaker setup. Anyway, the CDT 6x9's, are these the correct ones: CDT Audio Subwoofer CL-69S

Thank you!
Those CDT 6x9's in your link are the correct ones, and I JUST finished installing them in the REAR doors. I have the Infinity Reference in the front doors and dash. I listened to a few tunes in the driveway, and man what a difference! The bass is really brought to life, but not in a thumpy pound-your-chest kinda way. Perfect addition when you don't want to add a sub-woofer. I still have the ANC hooked up, so the next test will be to see how it sounds driving down the highway tomorrow. If something sounds off, I'll unhook the pins for the mics on Saturday and make another highway drive. This is with the Base Stereo system with the 8.4" screen.

Dash Speakers:
Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX 3-1/2" 2-Way Car Speakers

Front Door Speakers:
Infinity Reference REF-9633IX 6x9 3-Way Coaxial Speakers

Rear Door Speakers:
CDT Audio CL-69S SLIM 6X9” Mix Carbon Fiber/Fiber glass mid-bass woofer

UPDATE!

After hearing the horrible drone noise the entire length of my 2 hour drive on Friday night, I pulled the pins for the mics on the ANC unit on Saturday morning. Drove again on Saturday night, and the drone was completely gone and the stereo sounded great! Super happy this mod worked out!!!

Here is a link for a good video for pulling the pins on the ANC.
 
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UPDATE!

After hearing the horrible drone noise the entire length of my 2 hour drive on Friday night, I pulled the pins for the mics on the ANC unit on Saturday morning. Drove again on Saturday night, and the drone was completely gone and the stereo sounded great! Super happy this mod worked out!!!

Here is a link for a good video for pulling the pins on the ANC.
 

Brocktologist

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So I am going to put these speakers (below) into mine (everything Crutchfield ordered). Nowhere near an audiophile here, I just want something better than the crap in the base system. I don't have ANC, just checked under my seat.

My question, how hard would it be to add a small amp? And would I want a 4 channel amp, or 6 channel amp? Can the 3.5's just run off the head and the other 4 door speakers off the amp? I need something better but not crazy, was thinking something that could just power the doors up maybe 2-3 times what the headunit does. I don't understand a thing about amps, so just looking for a clue what to shop for, probably have the amp professionally installed.

Kicker 46CSC354 for the 3.5 Dash [30 watt RMS, 4 OHM]
Kicker 43DSC69304 for the 6x9 Front Doors [90 watt RMS, 4 OHM]
Kicker 46CSC6934 for the 6x9 Rear Doors [150 watt RMS, 4 OHM]
 

Krusty

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So I am going to put these speakers (below) into mine (everything Crutchfield ordered). Nowhere near an audiophile here, I just want something better than the crap in the base system. I don't have ANC, just checked under my seat.

My question, how hard would it be to add a small amp? And would I want a 4 channel amp, or 6 channel amp? Can the 3.5's just run off the head and the other 4 door speakers off the amp? I need something better but not crazy, was thinking something that could just power the doors up maybe 2-3 times what the headunit does. I don't understand a thing about amps, so just looking for a clue what to shop for, probably have the amp professionally installed.

Kicker 46CSC354 for the 3.5 Dash [30 watt RMS, 4 OHM]
Kicker 43DSC69304 for the 6x9 Front Doors [90 watt RMS, 4 OHM]
Kicker 46CSC6934 for the 6x9 Rear Doors [150 watt RMS, 4 OHM]
I am very much in the same boat as you Brocktologist! (I don't understand a thing about amps) I recently replaced my 2x dash speakers with the Infinity 3032 and they sound amazing. I'm thinking of changing out the doors with the Infinity 9633's however, it's my understanding the base system does not have an amp, and I'm wondering if I need to install one? If so, is there one that is a easy plug and play and small enough to hide behind factory head unit? I will not be adding a sub to the system. Lastly if I add an amp (again, hopefully something real simple since I have no clue about amps) do I also need to bypass the ANC? Thanks in advance!
 

Krusty

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I am very much in the same boat as you Brocktologist! (I don't understand a thing about amps) I recently replaced my 2x dash speakers with the Infinity 3032 and they sound amazing. I'm thinking of changing out the doors with the Infinity 9633's however, it's my understanding the base system does not have an amp, and I'm wondering if I need to install one? If so, is there one that is a easy plug and play and small enough to hide behind factory head unit? I will not be adding a sub to the system. Lastly if I add an amp (again, hopefully something real simple since I have no clue about amps) do I also need to bypass the ANC? Thanks in advance!
I should have also mentioned I do have the Hemi, and I replaced the dash speakers after watching several videos where it seemed extremely easy, which it turned out to be. This is why I'm now considering changing the 4 door speakers but I'm a little nervous pulling it off.
 

Shives

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First off, what exact year make a model.

Like me, a 2019 Bighorn night edition. 8.4 non-navi.

Under the drivers seat has the ANC on these trucks. (Which I thought most came with this) 2500 and 3500 are different. Under that seat you will have a harness available for your speakers an a easy tie in spot. You will have to take one side (feed side) an feed that to an amp, being very careful not to confuse the polarity.. positive an negative… other wise you’ll get speakers out of phase and sound hallow. (Out of phase meaning: you send a signal to all speakers, but one speaker will push out, while another will pull in to make the same sound. You want all speakers working together, meaning all push out an in at the same time)

They DO make small 4-ch amps… where I would advise running the doors off the amp at this point an front speakers off the head unit.

Picking speakers you do want something of quality, but making sure they are super efficient speakers for that dash. This is the whole 1watt gets you what SPL. Higher That number, more efficient speaker, meaning it takes less power to run them. Our factory decks only have so much power.

Something to consider… crossover settings. Your amp will have high and low pass, an it will cut the speakers at some point. You want to try an match this with your dash speakers. Being the 3.5 can only handle so much bass, running them full band would be bad. I advise getting base blockers or a simple cross over to keep the lows away from them. In the instructions for the 3.5’s you’ll also find a useable frequency range. Example 80hz-20hz. So, I’m essence you would want a quality capacitor to block 80Hz an lower frequencies. Or they will distort pop an fart. My guess is that they cut the lowers at around 250 or some place. I could be wrong. I don’t think these decks have internal networks (cross overs) to make this happen.

The factory deck should have enough power, an this way i mention is more easy then using 6ch amp an active stuff. But up to you. Using an active network like Rockfords DSR1. Which may not be a bad choice. Just saying.

Small foot print amps. Kicker makes some, Rockford fosgate makes some, wet sounds, honestly so many make small foot print amps. I personally have a 800 @ 2 ohm amp under my drivers seat, an it does not interfere with my seat at all. Base 6 does not have a subwoofer. So, I opted for the factory box! Yup, works great!!

Just need to match the ohm’s with the amp! In this case, at the 6 ohm load, I end up having about 190 watts. Which is more the. That sun will see off the factory amp. I do plan to install a custom subwoofer box when I find the time to make mine.

I can try my best to help, feel free to message me.

Three options… keep it stock, keep it simple, or go all out. I’m trying to keep it simple side of things for you. Audio file or not, Good sound is what we all are trying to achieve on our beast’s!
 
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Krusty

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First off, what exact year make a model.

Like me, a 2019 Bighorn night edition. 8.4 non-navi.

Under the drivers seat has the ANC on these trucks. (Which I thought most came with this) 2500 and 3500 are different. Under that seat you will have a harness available for your speakers an a easy tie in spot. You will have to take one side (feed side) an feed that to an amp, being very careful not to confuse the polarity.. positive an negative… other wise you’ll get speakers out of phase and sound hallow. (Out of phase meaning: you send a signal to all speakers, but one speaker will push out, while another will pull in to make the same sound. You want all speakers working together, meaning all push out an in at the same time)

They DO make small 4-ch amps… where I would advise running the doors off the amp at this point an front speakers off the head unit.

Picking speakers you do want something of quality, but making sure they are super efficient speakers for that dash. This is the whole 1watt gets you what SPL. Higher That number, more efficient speaker, meaning it takes less power to run them. Our factory decks only have so much power.

Something to consider… crossover settings. Your amp will have high and low pass, an it will cut the speakers at some point. You want to try an match this with your dash speakers. Being the 3.5 can only handle so much bass, running them full band would be bad. I advise getting base blockers or a simple cross over to keep the lows away from them. In the instructions for the 3.5’s you’ll also find a useable frequency range. Example 80hz-20hz. So, I’m essence you would want a quality capacitor to block 80Hz an lower frequencies. Or they will distort pop an fart. My guess is that they cut the lowers at around 250 or some place. I could be wrong. I don’t think these decks have internal networks (cross overs) to make this happen.

The factory deck should have enough power, an this way i mention is more easy then using 6ch amp an active stuff. But up to you. Using an active network like Rockfords DSR1. Which may not be a bad choice. Just saying.

Small foot print amps. Kicker makes some, Rockford fosgate makes some, wet sounds, honestly so many make small foot print amps. I personally have a 800 @ 2 ohm amp under my drivers seat, an it does not interfere with my seat at all. Base 6 does not have a subwoofer. So, I opted for the factory box! Yup, works great!!

Just need to match the ohm’s with the amp! In this case, at the 6 ohm load, I end up having about 190 watts. Which is more the. That sun will see off the factory amp. I do plan to install a custom subwoofer box when I find the time to make mine.

I can try my best to help, feel free to message me.

Three options… keep it stock, keep it simple, or go all out. I’m trying to keep it simple side of things for you. Audio file or not, Good sound is what we all are trying to achieve on our beast’s!
Wow, that you very much for all the great information!!!
I apologize, I should have mentioned I have the 2020 1500 with the base 6 speaker system and the Hemi engine. It's my understanding that my truck will have the ANC due to the engine. (I haven't checked as of yet) I also believe the base system does not come with an amp? If that is correct that is why I was looking at possibly installing something but it has to be really simple since as mentioned, I'm not electrician. Also, I have no intention of adding a sub woofer. With no sub do I need an amp if I'm just replacing the 6 stock speakers and if so, does that mean I have to disconnect the ANC? If so, I may just leave it as it is with the replacement dash speakers but not replacing the doors. (I just thought the dash replacements made such a big difference, I'm assuming replacing the doors will also make a huge difference?)

Thank you again and I may message you if/when I purchase the amp. (I just want to make sure it's not to tough of a task for me to undertake)
 

Shives

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Listen, you can always just start by changing out the factory door speakers and seeing how you like it.

No, base system does not have an amp. Yes, you will have ANC under your seat. I advise to get the bypass harness an elimination of this unit. Won’t throw any codes on dash. That harness if you decide to install the amp, will be your input to amp and output. Your amp will need a high level input.

Welcome to message me of course. An Remember to hit that like button. Thanks
 

Krusty

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Listen, you can always just start by changing out the factory door speakers and seeing how you like it.

No, base system does not have an amp. Yes, you will have ANC under your seat. I advise to get the bypass harness an elimination of this unit. Won’t throw any codes on dash. That harness if you decide to install the amp, will be your input to amp and output. Your amp will need a high level input.

Welcome to message me of course. An Remember to hit that like button. Thanks
Thank you! This makes sense and the ANC bypass looked very easy to do, and I'm really glad to hear no codes appear.

Thanks again, I really appreciate all the advice,
Dave
 

Brunzca

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Wow, that you very much for all the great information!!!
I apologize, I should have mentioned I have the 2020 1500 with the base 6 speaker system and the Hemi engine. It's my understanding that my truck will have the ANC due to the engine. (I haven't checked as of yet) I also believe the base system does not come with an amp? If that is correct that is why I was looking at possibly installing something but it has to be really simple since as mentioned, I'm not electrician. Also, I have no intention of adding a sub woofer. With no sub do I need an amp if I'm just replacing the 6 stock speakers and if so, does that mean I have to disconnect the ANC? If so, I may just leave it as it is with the replacement dash speakers but not replacing the doors. (I just thought the dash replacements made such a big difference, I'm assuming replacing the doors will also make a huge difference?)

Thank you again and I may message you if/when I purchase the amp. (I just want to make sure it's not to tough of a task for me to undertake)
In your scenario (not wanting a sub, just more power/upgrades to the doors), it’s good that you just have the base system! With the Alpine system (and I believe the HK), the crossover settings of the amp that comes “built in”, send only bass to the front door speakers, so even when you change them out, you don’t get much, if any improvement from the mids and highs, unless you bypass or replace that amp all together. But, with the 6 speaker base, upgrading the doors should actually make a big difference (esp the front), if you decide to do so, since the full range of frequencies is sent, and a better 6x9 will add clarity and definition.
 

Krusty

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In your scenario (not wanting a sub, just more power/upgrades to the doors), it’s good that you just have the base system! With the Alpine system (and I believe the HK), the crossover settings of the amp that comes “built in”, send only bass to the front door speakers, so even when you change them out, you don’t get much, if any improvement from the mids and highs, unless you bypass or replace that amp all together. But, with the 6 speaker base, upgrading the doors should actually make a big difference (esp the front), if you decide to do so, since the full range of frequencies is sent, and a better 6x9 will add clarity and definition.
Thank you Brunzca! If I do replace the doors with the Infinity 9633 will I need to add an amp? Will I need to disconnect the ANC if the amp is not needed? (I saw a post about a drone sound?) As mentioned in a earlier post I have already changed the 2 dash with the infinity 3032 and that's what is driving my thought of changing the 4 door speakers since the replacement dash speakers sound so much better than the stock.
 

Brunzca

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Thank you Brunzca! If I do replace the doors with the Infinity 9633 will I need to add an amp? Will I need to disconnect the ANC if the amp is not needed? (I saw a post about a drone sound?) As mentioned in a earlier post I have already changed the 2 dash with the infinity 3032 and that's what is driving my thought of changing the 4 door speakers since the replacement dash speakers sound so much better than the stock.
I’m not sure about the ANC, but, I don’t think you need to bypass/worry about that unless you add an amp. (I didn’t have the ANC in mine, so didn’t have to deal with it).

The 9633 is rated at 100 RMS /300max. I’m not sure what the HU alone puts out, but it should be more than sufficient to drive those speakers @ 3 ohms Resistance. If you want to upgrade- I’d put the speakers in first, and see if you are happy with the results. You can always add a small amp later for more power.
 

Shives

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Disconnect the ANC. It’s advised. It can mess with your speakers an sound quality. This system uses the door speakers an microphone built into the headliner, and vibration units under the truck. These counteract road noise with some algorithm they came up with. So, if your listening to X song, an it picks up a noise from the body or microphones which shares your noise in the song, counteraction is known to happen. You’ll find a slew of posts about it. This won’t effect Bluetooth mics.

Also, short term fix for more power… if you never have people in the back, fade your speakers more towards the front. Try it! You maybe amazed at the difference in sound up front. Radio amp can push two better then 6. Once that thing heats up, it’s starts to numb the bass notes. Again, worth a try!

The ANC bypass harness is 16.99.
 

Krusty

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Thanks guys!
I'm going to take your advice and will disconnect the ANC and then only install the 9633s without an amp since I have them. I will see how everything sounds and hopefully I won't need an amp since I really don't want to try to tackle that beast! I'll also mess around with fading them from the back forward since very rarely does anybody since in the back.
Thanks again for all the help, it's very much appreciated!
Dave
 

2wheelsonly

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@brian42

Dumb question...

Since the metra connectors for the dash speakers are wired in reverse and since we are mostly using bass blockers can't we just wire the metra up to the stock harness (and then to the BB) and then flip the wires on the bass blocker when connecting to the speaker (+ to - )? Wouldn't that be easier than swapping pins?

So stock wires ---> Metra (assuming reversed) ----> Bass blocker ----> aftermarket dash speakers but flipping + and - terminals? (BB - to speaker +)
 

Shives

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Really just have to note what one is positive. An connect. So, how ever you do it. It’s fine, flip them, twist them, it don’t matter. Just put the blocker on the right leg, an hook them all the same. Honestly you can run all 6 speakers out of phase!! As long as they all are doing the same thing. Some vehicles we need to do this to address time alignment and more. Heck, a ton of your home speakers an the ones I build will in fact take the tweet an shove that out of phase from the rest. This will make those highs sound further away. Anyways, without confusing… Yes… the color of wire don’t matter ****. Enjoy! Happy Turkey day
 

Shives

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Thanks guys!
I'm going to take your advice and will disconnect the ANC and then only install the 9633s without an amp since I have them. I will see how everything sounds and hopefully I won't need an amp since I really don't want to try to tackle that beast! I'll also mess around with fading them from the back forward since very rarely does anybody since in the back.
Thanks again for all the help, it's very much appreciated!
Dave
No problem at all! Happy to help anyone and all! Happy Turkey day guys an gals!

Once I start moving forward on my audio, I’ll post up. Still trying to decide…. Keep simple, go balls out. Lol.
 

Kendig83

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I just picked up a pair of CDT CL-69S 6x9s on sale from their website. I’m going to be putting them in the front doors, but they are supposed to give a decent mid/bass response. What you may want to consider, that would help even more, is add some sound deadening treatment to all 4 doors (if you haven’t already). That should help with what you are looking for

Was just looking these up to swap into my truck. Did you purchase the 2 ohms or 4 ohms? Already swapped the dash to the infinity and looking for the best route for the doors. Thinking of doing the infinity 9633 for the other set of doors.
 

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