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FINALLY INSTALLED! 2019 BIGHORN w/ Readylift 3.5" Kit with Bilstein 5100's front and 5160 Resi's in the rear.

I am in a debate between the Mopar 2" lift and Readylift SST w/ Bilstein shocks.

I see Bilstein list 5100 (0" to 1") for the rears, $143cdn and 5160 (0" to 2") rears for $292cdn.

Is there a specific reason you went with the 5160 for the rears over the 5100?

As far as the pricing I am getting right now, it looks like the Mopar will be cheaper for me unless I just go the Bilstein which would cost me about $600 (I assume all 4).

I have another thread on here, but can anyone explain what the differences are between Readylift SST 3.5" vs Mopar 2" with ORP front springs vs Readylift SST with Bilstein 5100s. Mopar is sold as a lift kit, where Readylift is promoted as a leveling kit. So confused lol.
Whoever is promoting the SST lift as a leveling kit is incorrect. Some may call it a Level Lift as it uses spacers but is also a No Cut Kit (no differential drop) The RL 3.5" SST Kit is a lift kit (3.5" front and 2.0" rear lift.) ....Leveling kits are Front only, RL does make a 2" leveling kit w' UCA's.

As for why 5160's....no great reason but they were the Best available from Bilstein, great value for a Resi. So far back end of the truck has felt so stable on some back roads. 5100's In front are tuned for the added preload so they feel great in the front and the spacer just gives it the extra lift. RL also in my opinion comes with a better UCA.

If i could compare the feeling of stock shocks to my Bilstein setup, I feel the road more now but I'd say 75% of the is from the F Load Tires. I will also add that none of what I feel is harsh to me at least. Biggest difference that I feel is that on medium to big compressions, the Bilsteins recover faster. where the stock shocks resonate (bounce) back and forth a bit before leveling out, the Bilsteins compress then level out quickly making the ride to me more stable. An example of this would be when I pull in to a friends driveway, when my truck was stock the truck would rock back and forth 3-4 times (driveway has a big depression on right side) before leveling out, now it rocks to one side then recovers.
 
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I am in a debate between the Mopar 2" lift and Readylift SST w/ Bilstein shocks.

I see Bilstein list 5100 (0" to 1") for the rears, $143cdn and 5160 (0" to 2") rears for $292cdn.

Is there a specific reason you went with the 5160 for the rears over the 5100?

As far as the pricing I am getting right now, it looks like the Mopar will be cheaper for me unless I just go the Bilstein which would cost me about $600 (I assume all 4).

I have another thread on here, but can anyone explain what the differences are between Readylift SST 3.5" vs Mopar 2" with ORP front springs vs Readylift SST with Bilstein 5100s. Mopar is sold as a lift kit, where Readylift is promoted as a leveling kit. So confused lol.
Just read your other post. If I were you I'd go Mopar. The only reason I went with my setup is that I already had the RL SST kit sitting in my Garage for over a year and the Bilsteins took away my hesitations of ride Quality. If I was starting from scratch Mopar route would have been easier w/ similar results although i'm completely satified with my setup. Sorry my last post way too long LOL..... edit. I just read people are having traction control issues w/ Mopar/ORP set up. I don't seem to have that issue in the rear with the 5160's.
 
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Just read your other post. If I were you I'd go Mopar. The only reason I went with my setup is that I already had the RL SST kit sitting in my Garage for over a year and the Bilsteins took away my hesitations of ride Quality. If I was starting from scratch Mopar route would have been easier w/ similar results although i'm completely satified with my setup. Sorry my last post way too long LOL

I appreciate your feedback. Your last post was informative so that you for some of the explanations. Yes I see the SST kit is considered a lift kit, I don’t know why I was thinking leveling kit.

I originally never had even considered the ReadyLift kit because I was reading that It provided a rough kind of ride. Then I started digging around here and seen people like yourself putting the Bilstein 5100 on and seen that it provided a nicer ride. Would you say it’s similar to stock, better or worst?

I will probably end up with the Mopar kit, as it seems like this will be cheaper than putting together the SST kit and the Bilstein shocks. The quote I got was $600 for the Bilstein 5100 but that may be all the way around. I heard you really only need the front with the SST kit to get a better ride. So I could probably save a little money not doing the back.

I am more leaning towards Mopar considering the prices I have gotten so far. If I do find a shop around me with a good price on both the Readylift and Bilstein as some type of package I may do that. I have narrow my decision down to these 2 anyhow.

BDS 4” would be nice, but it’s double the price too and I don’t need that type of height.

I also see you have the 35” tires with the 3.21 gears. That is another debate I am having with myself. I don’t want the truck to be sluggish, I only commute so I don’t mind a little power loss. If I tow it’s once in a while and it’s nothing more then 3000lbs or less.
 
Well I've been sitting on my RL Kit for over a tear trying to decide on what I wanted to do. Well here she is, looks great. rides great so far. Slightly firmer but not near as firm as my BMW X5. Road perfect through some winding roads, held corners well, less sway than the ride to the shop this morning. Decided to go with setting #4 on the 5100's and of course I didn't have the preload spacer installed, just the tophat spacer. Won't know how it will feel offroad until I go MTBing again. Measured 25" in front and 25.5" in the rear from center of the hub to the fender. Just have to decide on tires now. Just trying to decide on tires, leaning towards a Milestar Patagonia MT 295/60r20 or 275/65r20, Radar Renegade XT 35x11.5 or 275/62r20, and Kunati Trail Hog 275/65r20. Here are some pics, I forgot to take one before install so the last one is an older pic.

View attachment 59834View attachment 59835View attachment 59836View attachment 59838View attachment 59839View attachment 59840View attachment 59841
Looks awesome I’m glad somebody finally has some good info about running the billsteins with the ready lift kit
 
I appreciate your feedback. Your last post was informative so that you for some of the explanations. Yes I see the SST kit is considered a lift kit, I don’t know why I was thinking leveling kit.

I originally never had even considered the ReadyLift kit because I was reading that It provided a rough kind of ride. Then I started digging around here and seen people like yourself putting the Bilstein 5100 on and seen that it provided a nicer ride. Would you say it’s similar to stock, better or worst?

I will probably end up with the Mopar kit, as it seems like this will be cheaper than putting together the SST kit and the Bilstein shocks. The quote I got was $600 for the Bilstein 5100 but that may be all the way around. I heard you really only need the front with the SST kit to get a better ride. So I could probably save a little money not doing the back.

I am more leaning towards Mopar considering the prices I have gotten so far. If I do find a shop around me with a good price on both the Readylift and Bilstein as some type of package I may do that. I have narrow my decision down to these 2 anyhow.

BDS 4” would be nice, but it’s double the price too and I don’t need that type of height.

I also see you have the 35” tires with the 3.21 gears. That is another debate I am having with myself. I don’t want the truck to be sluggish, I only commute so I don’t mind a little power loss. If I tow it’s once in a while and it’s nothing more then 3000lbs or less.
Personally I wouldn't just go with front only Bilstein 5100's and Readylift just because it's cheaper. Front will be better (than standard Readylift 3.5"kit) but rear will have a different shock tune so they may react differently to the same terrain. I would honestly say it's not better or worse than stock, It's different. I'd say not as smooth (you feel the road more) but much more composed through bigger bumps......For me I think it's better but It depends on what you want in suspension feel. What I like better, someone else may think is worse. That's why I say it's different.

As for 3.21's and 35's, I think I was a bit nervous about nothing. Keep in mind the Ridge Grapplers 35x12.5's are really only 34.76"x 12.5s" yet their 295/65 is 35.1"x 11.8....so other brands 35's may be taller which could have more negative affect . I have no issue with the truck shifting in to 8th gear. When you go uphill it does downshift to accelerate but not sure if it's any more than before, I just pay attention to it now since i was looking for the truck to be "chasing between 7/8" (I don't think it does). It does accelerate a bit slower but by no means slow. Still a ton of power. I did get my speedo calibrated within the first few days but didn't notice any issues prior to that either.
 
Personally I wouldn't just go with front only Bilstein 5100's and Readylift just because it's cheaper. Front will be better (than standard Readylift 3.5"kit) but rear will have a different shock tune so they may react differently to the same terrain. I would honestly say it's not better or worse than stock, It's different. I'd say not as smooth (you feel the road more) but much more composed through bigger bumps......For me I think it's better but It depends on what you want in suspension feel. What I like better, someone else may think is worse. That's why I say it's different.

As for 3.21's and 35's, I think I was a bit nervous about nothing. Keep in mind the Ridge Grapplers 35x12.5's are really only 34.76"x 12.5s" yet their 295/65 is 35.1"x 11.8....so other brands 35's may be taller which could have more negative affect . I have no issue with the truck shifting in to 8th gear. When you go uphill it does downshift to accelerate but not sure if it's any more than before, I just pay attention to it now since i was looking for the truck to be "chasing between 7/8" (I don't think it does). It does accelerate a bit slower but by no means slow. Still a ton of power. I did get my speedo calibrated within the first few days but didn't notice any issues prior to that either.

Hey thanks for the info again. My guy quoted me $600 cdn for Bilstein shocks all around. I am not sure if it's all 5100 all around (which I am pretty sure it probably is) or 5100 front and 5160 back, I have asked him to verify. $600 for Bilstein all around, $1000 for Readylift kit puts me at $1800 with taxes unless there is anything else I need. The Mopar kit looks like it's going to cost me $1900 with taxes and then whatever the cost is for the front ORP springs. The eBay seller put the price up a few hundred on the kit so now it's going to cost me more. As for install, since this is a basic swap from shocks/struts I can install myself without any issue I have all the tools an know how so I will probably just do the lift myself.

With all that being said, I am ok going with Mopar or Readylift/Bilstein they would will achieve the same height I assume. Are there any advantages going with the Mopar kit where the shocks are extended over the Readylift that is an adjustable shock/strut. I guess the nice thing about the Mopar one is that it's warranty, but I think the UCA is probably better on the Readylift. Not worried about height as it's a mild lift, and my deliver already told me small lifts of like 2" or so will be overlook usually.

As for the 35's, I have read a few post here and there about 35's. I think if your just driving the truck around not pulling heavy loads/trailers then that power loss wouldn't be bad. I do plan in the future to get a CAI (Vararam or S&B is what I have decided) and maybe a pedal commander (or equivalent) and maybe a tune not too sure. For now, I'd rather get what I really want my Borla S-Type and the lift kit (I was debating on CAI, but I think I'd rather put that money towards lift/tires).

If all of my plans pan out, I should have my Lift and Tires done pretty close together, I may need to run around with the stockers for a bit but not to long. I plan on getting tires and getting mine removed and selling them. I was going to power coat my rims black, but I'd rather put the money towards the tires right now and then in September/October I will get them powder coated. The powder coaters are busy right now anyhow, so it will work out better.

Tires I plan on getting Wrangler Duratracs 35x12.5x20. I think because I want to use the stock rims, they are 19mm offset. From my understanding I will probably need wheel spacers if I go with a 12.5 wide. The Duratracs measure 34.8 and are 63lbs (E rated) and 68lbs (F rated). I also am interested in the Nitto Ridge Grappler like you have, they measure 34.76 and are 73.5lbs (F rated). So I may go with the Duratracs as I have had them before and like them, plus I could save 42lbs (E rated) or 22lbs (F rated)

Sorry for the long winded post lol.. I talk a lot can you tell!!!
 
Also, I will eventually end up with the Hellwig sway bar or something similar down the road as well. Just not right away, only so much money to go around haha..
 
Hey thanks for the info again. My guy quoted me $600 cdn for Bilstein shocks all around. I am not sure if it's all 5100 all around (which I am pretty sure it probably is) or 5100 front and 5160 back, I have asked him to verify. $600 for Bilstein all around, $1000 for Readylift kit puts me at $1800 with taxes unless there is anything else I need. The Mopar kit looks like it's going to cost me $1900 with taxes and then whatever the cost is for the front ORP springs. The eBay seller put the price up a few hundred on the kit so now it's going to cost me more. As for install, since this is a basic swap from shocks/struts I can install myself without any issue I have all the tools an know how so I will probably just do the lift myself.

With all that being said, I am ok going with Mopar or Readylift/Bilstein they would will achieve the same height I assume. Are there any advantages going with the Mopar kit where the shocks are extended over the Readylift that is an adjustable shock/strut. I guess the nice thing about the Mopar one is that it's warranty, but I think the UCA is probably better on the Readylift. Not worried about height as it's a mild lift, and my deliver already told me small lifts of like 2" or so will be overlook usually.

As for the 35's, I have read a few post here and there about 35's. I think if your just driving the truck around not pulling heavy loads/trailers then that power loss wouldn't be bad. I do plan in the future to get a CAI (Vararam or S&B is what I have decided) and maybe a pedal commander (or equivalent) and maybe a tune not too sure. For now, I'd rather get what I really want my Borla S-Type and the lift kit (I was debating on CAI, but I think I'd rather put that money towards lift/tires).

If all of my plans pan out, I should have my Lift and Tires done pretty close together, I may need to run around with the stockers for a bit but not to long. I plan on getting tires and getting mine removed and selling them. I was going to power coat my rims black, but I'd rather put the money towards the tires right now and then in September/October I will get them powder coated. The powder coaters are busy right now anyhow, so it will work out better.

Tires I plan on getting Wrangler Duratracs 35x12.5x20. I think because I want to use the stock rims, they are 19mm offset. From my understanding I will probably need wheel spacers if I go with a 12.5 wide. The Duratracs measure 34.8 and are 63lbs (E rated) and 68lbs (F rated). I also am interested in the Nitto Ridge Grappler like you have, they measure 34.76 and are 73.5lbs (F rated). So I may go with the Duratracs as I have had them before and like them, plus I could save 42lbs (E rated) or 22lbs (F rated)

Sorry for the long winded post lol.. I talk a lot can you tell!!!
Between the Extended Fox Strut on the Mopar kit vs. The Bilstein/Tophat Spacer from my Setup, I can't imagine too much of a difference. That is only If the Fox are extended length but have the same trave as the Bilsteins. lf thats the case, then there is no real difference except tuning. Suspension angles of the upper and lower control arms are pretty much the same between the two setups.. I am having a 1/4" spacers added to the front to clear the UCA's completely. Don't think I'll need any more room than that. Only other mods I plan on doing is a Vararam or Mopar CAI, then probably just a Direct fit muffler replacement I just can't decide on which since I haven't heard any in person. Flowmaster Outlaw sounds great in the videos but unsure if it will be too loud in person....
 
Between the Extended Fox Strut on the Mopar kit vs. The Bilstein/Tophat Spacer from my Setup, I can't imagine too much of a difference. That is only If the Fox are extended length but have the same trave as the Bilsteins. lf thats the case, then there is no real difference except tuning. Suspension angles of the upper and lower control arms are pretty much the same between the two setups.. I am having a 1/4" spacers added to the front to clear the UCA's completely. Don't think I'll need any more room than that. Only other mods I plan on doing is a Vararam or Mopar CAI, then probably just a Direct fit muffler replacement I just can't decide on which since I haven't heard any in person. Flowmaster Outlaw sounds great in the videos but unsure if it will be too loud in person....

Yes it looks like both kits would achieve similar results and maybe close to similar ride quality. The Mopar might have the edge because of warranty but I don't think the ReadyLift would cause warranty problems either but the change would be there. It pretty much comes down to price for me at this point, and I believe the Mopar will come out a little more expensive but not by much.

As for the tires, Readylift suggest 18mm offset min/max with 35"x12.5"x20" tires. Since the stock rims are 19mm, that would bring the rims in closer to the UCA. Are you not touching the UCA right now with that setup or was ReadyLift just saying 18mm because they want to make sure tires are not hitting the UCA.

I figure a spacer 1/4 to 1/2 would be more then enough. I don't want my tires coming way out on my fenders, I have no fender flares and have no plans on getting fender flares. Maybe down the road I may, but right now that is the last thing on my radar. I have an issue with fender flares, I had them on my last truck and they from rubbing (even with a rubber seal) that wear at the paint.

I heard people going with Bora spacers, I think anything made in USA and CANADA (no Chinese aluminum) they should be good. Especially if you're a road warrior and not an off-road warrior.
 
Looks like you need 1.25" spacers if you don't want to grind off any of the factory lug nuts.

If I do with the spacers, I think I will go 1.25" to 1.5" with the factory Sport wheels.
 
Looks like you need 1.25" spacers if you don't want to grind off any of the factory lug nuts.

If I do with the spacers, I think I will go 1.25" to 1.5" with the factory Sport wheels.
1/4"slip on spacers will be fine on factory lugs. I just ordered Rough Country spacers for now, if spacing is OK I'll order 2 BORA pairs for front and rear so they are even. Currently the big side lugs of the R. Grapplers rub just a little bit at full lock on the UCA's. So slighty that you can't feel it when it rubs but there are light rub marks on the UCAs.
 
I am debating if the 5100’s are ok with the 2” spacer on the rear fo the Readylift kit. It says 0-1” for the rear yet the ReadyLift kit as far as I know deosn’t even require new shocks so the factory are ok. Is the 0-1” for the 5100 good for the ORP package, if so then I should be ok without the ORP packager as it would only put me 1” high over ORP?

I am looking at the 5160’s but the price per shock is double the price of the rear 5100s. That an extra $240 for the 5160’s over the 5100 which is a nice sum of money. Also 5100 front/5160 rear put me close to the same price as the Mopar 2” with ORP at.
 
I am debating if the 5100’s are ok with the 2” spacer on the rear fo the Readylift kit. It says 0-1” for the rear yet the ReadyLift kit as far as I know deosn’t even require new shocks so the factory are ok. Is the 0-1” for the 5100 good for the ORP package, if so then I should be ok without the ORP packager as it would only put me 1” high over ORP?

I am looking at the 5160’s but the price per shock is double the price of the rear 5100s. That an extra $240 for the 5160’s over the 5100 which is a nice sum of money. Also 5100 front/5160 rear put me close to the same price as the Mopar 2” with ORP at.
The spacer isn't part of the lift Bilstein is talking about. 5100's accomodate the stock spring and the 1" lifted orp spring. 0-1"
 
The spacer isn't part of the lift Bilstein is talking about. 5100's accomodate the stock spring and the 1" lifted orp spring. 0-1"

What I meant is, if the 5100 accommodate the ORP springs. The ReadyLift comes with a 2“ spacer for the rear, since I don’t have the ORP package on my truck would that mean this spacer is only 1” over the ORP package? Would the 5100 work?

The reason I ask is because the ReadyLift doesn’t say you need to even change out the stock shock with the 2” coil spacer.

Another question - The Mopar Kit comes with the track bar relocation bracket which also lifts the rear 2”. Why is this part not required on the ReadyLift kit?
 
What I meant is, if the 5100 accommodate the ORP springs. The ReadyLift comes with a 2“ spacer for the rear, since I don’t have the ORP package on my truck would that mean this spacer is only 1” over the ORP package? Would the 5100 work?

The reason I ask is because the ReadyLift doesn’t say you need to even change out the stock shock with the 2” coil spacer.

Another question - The Mopar Kit comes with the track bar relocation bracket which also lifts the rear 2”. Why is this part not required on the ReadyLift kit?
Yes 5100's would work fine w/ RL Spacer, as for the track bar relocation brackets......for that i'm not sure.
 
...Won't know how it will feel offroad until I go MTBing again...
Hey, any update or thoughts on this setup? Really wanting to hold out on some bilstein 6112s for the front to do this, but no idea when those are coming so that may just be a down the road upgrade.
 
BigJZ74- I am doing the same set up as you, except using Timbergrove rear airsprings- I tow regularly. What did you use for alignment? OEM setting or some other?

thanks
 
Hey, any update or thoughts on this setup? Really wanting to hold out on some bilstein 6112s for the front to do this, but no idea when those are coming so that may just be a down the road upgrade.
After 1500 miles on the setup, the truck feels close to stock. I would really prefer a firmer tune on the 5100's but still good. Definitely gonna add a helliwig swaybar for more stability. Can be bouncy, but no different than it was stock. I Still do like it a lot. I'd only change from this setup if I went to Fox 2.5 3" Coilovers w/ .5" Top hat Spacers up front with their 2.5 resi's in the rear, w/ DSC adjusters of course. I'm sure I could tune out the side to side bounce with the Compression Adjustments which is the only quality I don't like, but I didn't like that aspect from the stock set up either..
 
BigJZ74- I am doing the same set up as you, except using Timbergrove rear airsprings- I tow regularly. What did you use for alignment? OEM setting or some other?

thanks
Alignment? Shop did the aligment, so I am not sure about the settings.....but it's straight.
 
After 1500 miles on the setup, the truck feels close to stock. I would really prefer a firmer tune on the 5100's but still good. Definitely gonna add a helliwig swaybar for more stability. Can be bouncy, but no different than it was stock. I Still do like it a lot. I'd only change from this setup if I went to Fox 2.5 3" Coilovers w/ .5" Top hat Spacers up front with their 2.5 resi's in the rear, w/ DSC adjusters of course. I'm sure I could tune out the side to side bounce with the Compression Adjustments which is the only quality I don't like, but I didn't like that aspect from the stock set up either..
I actually already have done this setup before you responded. Same setup but different tires, toyo open country at3 295/65r20. Very much like it. Perfect height, ride is still really good i'd say.
 

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