Jeffjad
Ram Guru
Looks like the tech logged 1.9 hours for replacement of my passenger side just to give you a reference. I'm sure their was a smoke break or two in there
.
Sorry can't help with torque specs.
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Exhaust Manifold Leak
- Thread starter scudda
- Start date
Looks like the tech logged 1.9 hours for replacement of my passenger side just to give you a reference. I'm sure their was a smoke break or two in there
.Sorry can't help with torque specs.
Nails
Ram Guru
Unfortunately, until they change the material the manifolds or heads are made of . To heating/cooling cycles closer in ratio, this will continue to happen.
Maybe ceramic would help idk. At that point, might as well port them out before coating. Longevity... same who knows. Still to new
Neurobit
RAM Sorcerer
Birdman_2000
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I am not 100%, but i think i am about to join in on this issue. I swear my truck cold start has gotten louder. Just haven't had time to jump out and listen. 2019 with 28k. Seems like even the 2021 still have this issue to right?
Neurobit
RAM Sorcerer
Correct. It's been an issue for years, and the reason it's so frustrating.
Birdman_2000
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Makes me glad i did the extended warranty, just sucks cause i got 200k out of 2 Toyota's each literally doing general maintenance. You would think they could get this resolved.
My1stHemi
Well-Known Member
Driver side manifold is cracked. More to come. Dealer can eat humble pie on Monday.
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Jeffjad
Ram Guru
Last edited:
My1stHemi
Well-Known Member
So this Saturday morning I took the plunge and dove into the manifold replacement project.
In preparation for this work I nosed my truck into the garage and had the front end suspended on jack stands.
I then removed the negative terminal of the battery and removed the front wheels and fender liners. The only other item I had to remove for access was the y-pipe and disconnecting the 4 connections for the o2 sensors.
With all of that out of the way, removal of the stock manifolds was very easy with air tools.
If you were to perform a manifold replacement only, I can see how this would be a 4 hour job. Swapping out headers added another factor of pain and suffering.
Problem #1: Fasteners
When my AFE headers shipped, I only received 10 grade 8 bolts out of 16. Originally this wasn’t a big concern because I planned to upgrade with ARP fasteners. When I opened my ARP fasteners and tried installing them on the headers before installation I found out that 5 of them would not fit in the holes due to interference with the tubes. MAJOR disappointment. So now I had to use the grade 8 hardware supplies by AFE. I ran down to my local hardware store and of course they were out of the bolts that I needed to make up the shortage of bolts not provided by AFE so this meant more time on the road looking for bolts.
The second fastener related issue I found was that on two of the holes at the back side of the headers, the bolts provided by AFE don’t fit. Nowhere in the instructions is this mentioned.
So I stopped, and amazingly refrained from cursing and thought about my options. One, notch the holes and use the ARP bolts, or two, use a combination of grade 8 bolts and run back to the store and buy some studs and nuts. I opted for #2.
As I mentioned before, 12pt bolts are wonderful in tight conditions, and as I installed the grade 8 6pt bolts I was imagining how nice it would have been to have the 12pt heads to work with. Installing the headers and following the torqueing sequence is a pain, more so on the driver’s side. This is all hand work, with probably 40% use of sockets(no air) and the rest being ratcheting box-end wrenches. And therein lies a problem. You are to torque these bolts to 18ft-lb but getting a torque wrench on most of these bolts is near impossible. With this in mind, it’s a matter of feel, comparing the spec-torqued bolts with those torqued by hand.
In all, with weekend distractions, hours of driving to and from stores looking for fasteners, this took about 12 hours, wheels up to wheels down. Without fastener issues I’d say 8 hours would be a realistic time frame to set aside for this project.
I’ve got a very slight leak that I need to fix at the collector and y-pipe connection but its minor and goes away 20 seconds after starting the engine. I’ll make this repair once I drive the truck for a week and recheck all bolts for torque again.
Driving impressions are... I can’t honestly tell a difference beside the fact that the truck doesn’t have a bad exhaust leak from the factory manifolds any longer. I saw more seat-of-the-pants change using my pedal commander than I did these headers. I’ll monitor fuel use over the next two weeks to see if there are any gains there. If I ever pair my headers with some aftermarket exhaust, perhaps it will sound nice, but at this point I’m not interested in dropping any more coin into my truck for some time.
Would I recommend AFE headers? I can’t say that I could without reservation. I’d like to hold a set of JBA’s to compare the quality but for the same price you can get them factory ceramic coated. I’m not sure if JBA’s have the bolt clearance issues either. That fastener debacle was pretty frustrating and cost me many hours of my life.
In preparation for this work I nosed my truck into the garage and had the front end suspended on jack stands.
I then removed the negative terminal of the battery and removed the front wheels and fender liners. The only other item I had to remove for access was the y-pipe and disconnecting the 4 connections for the o2 sensors.
With all of that out of the way, removal of the stock manifolds was very easy with air tools.
If you were to perform a manifold replacement only, I can see how this would be a 4 hour job. Swapping out headers added another factor of pain and suffering.
Problem #1: Fasteners
When my AFE headers shipped, I only received 10 grade 8 bolts out of 16. Originally this wasn’t a big concern because I planned to upgrade with ARP fasteners. When I opened my ARP fasteners and tried installing them on the headers before installation I found out that 5 of them would not fit in the holes due to interference with the tubes. MAJOR disappointment. So now I had to use the grade 8 hardware supplies by AFE. I ran down to my local hardware store and of course they were out of the bolts that I needed to make up the shortage of bolts not provided by AFE so this meant more time on the road looking for bolts.
The second fastener related issue I found was that on two of the holes at the back side of the headers, the bolts provided by AFE don’t fit. Nowhere in the instructions is this mentioned.
So I stopped, and amazingly refrained from cursing and thought about my options. One, notch the holes and use the ARP bolts, or two, use a combination of grade 8 bolts and run back to the store and buy some studs and nuts. I opted for #2.
As I mentioned before, 12pt bolts are wonderful in tight conditions, and as I installed the grade 8 6pt bolts I was imagining how nice it would have been to have the 12pt heads to work with. Installing the headers and following the torqueing sequence is a pain, more so on the driver’s side. This is all hand work, with probably 40% use of sockets(no air) and the rest being ratcheting box-end wrenches. And therein lies a problem. You are to torque these bolts to 18ft-lb but getting a torque wrench on most of these bolts is near impossible. With this in mind, it’s a matter of feel, comparing the spec-torqued bolts with those torqued by hand.
In all, with weekend distractions, hours of driving to and from stores looking for fasteners, this took about 12 hours, wheels up to wheels down. Without fastener issues I’d say 8 hours would be a realistic time frame to set aside for this project.
I’ve got a very slight leak that I need to fix at the collector and y-pipe connection but its minor and goes away 20 seconds after starting the engine. I’ll make this repair once I drive the truck for a week and recheck all bolts for torque again.
Driving impressions are... I can’t honestly tell a difference beside the fact that the truck doesn’t have a bad exhaust leak from the factory manifolds any longer. I saw more seat-of-the-pants change using my pedal commander than I did these headers. I’ll monitor fuel use over the next two weeks to see if there are any gains there. If I ever pair my headers with some aftermarket exhaust, perhaps it will sound nice, but at this point I’m not interested in dropping any more coin into my truck for some time.
Would I recommend AFE headers? I can’t say that I could without reservation. I’d like to hold a set of JBA’s to compare the quality but for the same price you can get them factory ceramic coated. I’m not sure if JBA’s have the bolt clearance issues either. That fastener debacle was pretty frustrating and cost me many hours of my life.
Last edited:
Nails
Ram Guru
Thanks for update, sounds disappointing on the $$ to fun ratio.
HemiDude
Spends too much time on here
Thanks for the post! Looks like the rear holes would work best with studs, if I ever decide to go this route.
Birdman_2000
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Confirmed, both manifolds are cracked on my truck. Parts are on back order. 28k miles on a 2019. Dealer tried to act like this was not a common issue, but when i came back to pick it up another guy acknowledged that it was a common issue.
My1stHemi
Well-Known Member
So after about two weeks with the AFE headers I have no more leaks. I have not had to re-torque any of the fasteners.
I can’t say that I notice any power differences, but that’s not to say there aren’t any additional ponies or torques. Also, mileage does not seem to have improved or diminished.
I would recommend biting the bullet and swapping out the cast iron manifolds for quality aftermarket shorties to avoid continued problems with the OEM parts.
I can’t say that I notice any power differences, but that’s not to say there aren’t any additional ponies or torques. Also, mileage does not seem to have improved or diminished.
I would recommend biting the bullet and swapping out the cast iron manifolds for quality aftermarket shorties to avoid continued problems with the OEM parts.
To be fair, FCA did improve or change the design, as its not the exact same problem. The manifolds on the 4th gens (2009-2018, and probably Ram Classics 2019+) would warp/bend at the collector end, breaking off the last stud(s)/bolt(s) in the process. On the 5th gens, they seemed to have made them more rigid and less prone to bending, so now they crack under the strain. 
From what I see and read, the GMCs have this issue as well with their factory log-style manifolds. I wonder if the finance/accounting penny-pinchers are responsible, reducing the specs on OEM manifolds from what the engineers called for to save a few pennies.
From what I see and read, the GMCs have this issue as well with their factory log-style manifolds. I wonder if the finance/accounting penny-pinchers are responsible, reducing the specs on OEM manifolds from what the engineers called for to save a few pennies.
Rebel 12
Active Member
Glad to here it all worked out for you. I have the same problem. It sounds like a better way to go instead of the same stock problem. Is there any interior sound difference (loader ) have you towed with it yet? I don't want to listen to it roar when I'm pulling my travel trailer
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Jeffjad
Ram Guru
Just curious how many of us with cracked manifolds tow regularly? Wandering if the excessive heat from towing is causing these cracks. I tow pretty regularly and have had both manifolds crack with less than 25k.....
INVISBLE
Well-Known Member
Mines at the dealership for it too 17k miles, been there 2 weeks already, still no part. They are doing the a/c TSB, changing the oil and messing with my radio again too. What was the timeframe for lemon law in service in texas? Lol
