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Engine shutting down while driving

BobbyZ

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I never thought my "fancy" truck could nearly kill me from malfunction.
I came here for research and Im shocked to see how many people have had this issue. Unfortunately, add me to the list. I experienced the slow right hand turn stall a few weeks ago, and again after that but there is no fix from the dealer. I’ve had my eye on the volt gauge ever since watching it creep down to low voltage. Reminds me of being a teenage girl watching gauges in whatever sh** box i was driving so that I didn’t break down.
Well today while at 75MPH on the freeway, attempting to pass a semi my 2022 Rebel GT 24k miles lost acceleration and shut off, same as the times before.
>low voltage warning>red battery symbol>clicking lights>complete shut off!! I was ready for the whole truck to lock up right there on the freeway becuase it usually engages the ebrake!
After a few seconds it re started itself!! while at 75mph!!! then the transmission slips like its going to lock up-im assuming because of the e-brake engagement it usually does and the fact that i was going 75mph?!! It then engaged to "normal operation" with a 13.1 voltage, so I sped back up and I got my as* to the dealership that was fortunately only 2 miles down the road trying not to panic.
My service lady came out and hooked it up for codes, what did she find?.... "nothing but B233C00 which is a random code" she said. Which means (as we all should be l familiar with by now) that they cannot do anything without data.
My husband asked for a call back from the service manager because of the severity of the danger this poses now. I'm too scared to drive it (not kidding). My dealership booked me for an appointment on Monday to open a case for the Chrysler engineers to review. In the driveway it will sit until then.

***Thanks to this forum, I have an entire list of things ya'll have suggested and tried for the mechanics to go through.***
-Test alternator output range -is amperage and output different at low and higher RPM?
-Check all ground connections -fuse box, battery, alternator etc.
-eTorque battery- power pack 48v dc>dc converter operational?
-MGU
-Fuse box terminals
-TSB 18-091-22? and update HCP, PCM and TCM if available
-Inspect RFH / replace RF hub (leaky window/ water damage)
-Running too rich? -Jerky take offs with major delay in acceleration, sometimes bogs down lower RPM while trying to accelerate at speeds above 55mph

Am I missing anything guys?
Of course, ill give my dealership a chance but Im close to raising hell if nothing is done. This is the first vehicle Ive EVER purchased from a dealership and we spent a lot of money on it. I'm so upset about this! I now have a $60k paperweight in my driveway.
-Corrie
Anything new on this Corrie?
 

outdoor7or24

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Well to follow up on my 2023 v6 (3.6l) etorque issues. The dealer replaced etorque back in February due to the low speed stalls and shut offs. No issues until last week I have had 3 low speed stalls.
I drove once with the low battery warning (11.9v) and within a few minutes the voltage on the dash was 9.5 volts. I thought well I will stop, shut down and restart. Not enough juice in the battery so I hooked up battery jump pack and off we go.
Back to the dealer again.
 

BobbyZ

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Any more information on what is causing this? I have had this happen while towing our travel trailer on two different occasions. Major safety concern when you stall while driving through an intersection.
Local dealer has had our truck for two weeks now and no contact with us. Guess they just forgot about us.
 

outdoor7or24

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@BobbyZ - I hear you. The first time it took me 4 visits to the dealer to get the diagnosis and fix. I am wondering if the dealer has no experience, or they do not have a solution from FCA (corporate).
 

outdoor7or24

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Well dealer just called and said they are unable to replicate the issue, no codes present that is no active or no pending codes present. They started a STAR case on it and have logged information. Service manager said since they have replaced the generator once they do not want to just through parts at it.
I asked, so I just need to drive it to you once it has performed the issue? He said unfortunately yes that is the only way.

So, the 2023 1500 3.6 v6 motor with e-torque seems to have low speed shut off issue just like the 5.7.

This is the 5th time I have been to dealer for this.
 

DVaughn22

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Just chiming in to say I've had something similar happening as well. I've got a 2020 Ram 1500 Limited 5.7 eTorque w/ 27k on it.

I've had it happen to me 4 times over the past ~90 days. Although my issues seem to be slightly different than most in that my truck shuts off entirely and I can coast down to a stop and then it shifts itself into park. When it dies, it shuts off my dash and center screen and then the dash boots back up as I'm coasting to a stop as if I had just opened a door and it's telling me to push the brake and ignition button to start it. But the key fob is 100% unresponsive. Can click lock, unlock, etc. with zero response. Even after testing the battery in the key fob and changing it to be safe, it has happened several time since. Even going as far as swapping to my second key fob and even putting a brand new battery in that one as well.

The first time it was like many are saying, slow, taking a right hand turn and as I was accelerating out of the turn it died. Then on the same day, about an hour later. As I was going to go buy a new battery for my key fob, thinking that was it. It did it while I was driving 30, straight line, dies.

Third time, about 8 weeks from the first incident. Driving 60 down a straight stretch of road. Had gotten a car wash about 10 minutes prior, dies. This time I started looking for anything telling whatsoever. The only things I found were some relays and fuses not being seated super well. Figured that was it and called it a day. Started back up and all was fine.

Fourth time, today, about 3 weeks since the third incident. Driving 70 down the freeway. Went to plug in my phone to the #1 USB-C hub. Truck died almost instantly. Whether that was coincidence or caused it, no clue. Just stating for information sake. This time it shut off and I wasn't able to get it started for nearly an hour. I checked all the relays and fuses, all seated. I checked my key fob battery was working, perfect. I checked my battery terminals, clean and holding great. Checked my battery voltage, 13.9v. Couldn't figure out for the life of me what was wrong. Called RAM service and they had no ideas for me. Basically just said that they might need to replace the eTorque generator. Ended up just holding my brake and having the key fob pushed into the ignition button for ~5s and then my dash and center screen lit up like normal. Put my key in my pocket where it normally is and was able to start and drive the rest of the day with next to zero issue. The only other thing that happened today was that on my drive home, my center screen rebooted itself while driving, totally unprompted. But didn't affect the driving at all.

With all my issues, all signs point towards the RF transmitter (?) but my local dealers are all booked solid for the next ~33 days. And they won't order one in advance at my request. They want to take a look at it. Even though they will almost assuredly say that they can't reproduce it and then tell me there's nothing they can do anyways.

Thinking of joining the many frustrated owners and unfortunately just trade it away for something else that won't leave me stranded.

Making a late follow-up to this. I did end up tearing out the back seat and finding my Wireless Control Module Receiver (WCMR) was fried from water getting in. You can see the fried components on the rear photo at the top center and slightly down and left of that. The rear window leak was coming down the back wall and filling the bottom of the WCMR box and fried some electronics. It wasn't enough to completely kill the board at first, it was just making it super intermittent to where my truck had no key fob signal so it shut itself off in the middle of driving.

I bought a replacement WCMR for $205 after tax/shipping. Took out the rear seats and pulled the old one out. Received and installed the new one. Got my expensive paperweight towed to the dealership and got my key fobs programmed to the new WCMR for ~$45. I was able to drive out of there and haven't had any issues since. Although I will say I bought a 3rd party third brake light gasket and also ran caulk all the way along the top of my rear windshield as well. But that unfortunately hasn't 100% stopped my water issues. I do still have a very slight leak, but barely enough to dampen a napkin when going through a car wash. I will likely be running caulk all the way around my third brake light before winter. And if the leak still persists, I'm going to pull the entire headliner to get a better look at the leak.

I did all of this around the end of March '24. Haven't had any issues since. But the original one lasted 3-1/2 years with the leaks before it went to ****.

For future reference, if anyone needs the part number, it was: 68583952AA Wireless Control Module Receiver
 

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Roxmo6b

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I never thought my "fancy" truck could nearly kill me from malfunction.
I came here for research and Im shocked to see how many people have had this issue. Unfortunately, add me to the list. I experienced the slow right hand turn stall a few weeks ago, and again after that but there is no fix from the dealer. I’ve had my eye on the volt gauge ever since watching it creep down to low voltage. Reminds me of being a teenage girl watching gauges in whatever sh** box i was driving so that I didn’t break down.
Well today while at 75MPH on the freeway, attempting to pass a semi my 2022 Rebel GT 24k miles lost acceleration and shut off, same as the times before.
>low voltage warning>red battery symbol>clicking lights>complete shut off!! I was ready for the whole truck to lock up right there on the freeway becuase it usually engages the ebrake!
After a few seconds it re started itself!! while at 75mph!!! then the transmission slips like its going to lock up-im assuming because of the e-brake engagement it usually does and the fact that i was going 75mph?!! It then engaged to "normal operation" with a 13.1 voltage, so I sped back up and I got my as* to the dealership that was fortunately only 2 miles down the road trying not to panic.
My service lady came out and hooked it up for codes, what did she find?.... "nothing but B233C00 which is a random code" she said. Which means (as we all should be l familiar with by now) that they cannot do anything without data.
My husband asked for a call back from the service manager because of the severity of the danger this poses now. I'm too scared to drive it (not kidding). My dealership booked me for an appointment on Monday to open a case for the Chrysler engineers to review. In the driveway it will sit until then.

***Thanks to this forum, I have an entire list of things ya'll have suggested and tried for the mechanics to go through.***
-Test alternator output range -is amperage and output different at low and higher RPM?
-Check all ground connections -fuse box, battery, alternator etc.
-eTorque battery- power pack 48v dc>dc converter operational?
-MGU
-Fuse box terminals
-TSB 18-091-22? and update HCP, PCM and TCM if available
-Inspect RFH / replace RF hub (leaky window/ water damage)
-Running too rich? -Jerky take offs with major delay in acceleration, sometimes bogs down lower RPM while trying to accelerate at speeds above 55mph

Am I missing anything guys?
Of course, ill give my dealership a chance but Im close to raising hell if nothing is done. This is the first vehicle Ive EVER purchased from a dealership and we spent a lot of money on it. I'm so upset about this! I now have a $60k paperweight in my driveway.
-Corrie
Has anyone noticed the amount of fuel in the tank when it stalls?
They have changed the generator kept it at multiple times for multiple weeks all recall updates are complete.
However, and this is truely messed up.......I have noticed that my stalling issue seems to occur when my fuel tank hits 1/4 tank mark. If I don't let it drop below that mark it seems to run fine. Could be an extremely wierd coincidence but I went on a week long trip drove all over never let my tank get to a 1/4 tank good to go. Before I left tank got just below 1/4 mark it stalled. Came home let it drop, truck stalls, last 5 or 6 times it has had issues all were below 1/4 tank.
So just wondering if this is something anyone has noticed
 

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