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DIY Oil Change Shopping list for the 5.7

drsubie

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It's on the rack at my local NAPA for $28.95. If you guys think it's the better fit, $30 one-time doesn't bother me considering the convenience!

I would go for it then... I think there is enough clearance from the sway bar; if it doesn't fit, then return it and go for the long nipple version...
 

ExcursionDiesel

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I bought the F106FX valve. I think the swivel action and side discharge will work better on the 4x4 with that huge stabilizer bar in the way. I bought the quick connect fitting to attach a tube. The skid plates on the Off Road Group protect the pan well enough not to worry about damaging the valve as long as it's aimed to the side a bit. It'll go on with the next oil change. I don't think I'll do the filter relocation due to 10% oil pressure drop.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H...1543383489&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
 

Edwards

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Ok, this is not DIY but took it in to dealer for first oil change (we get 4 free ones in Tx) and HOLY MOLY they made a mess! Was dripping oil all over my garage from the "wash out engine compartment with dirty oil" party they had.
Ok, it wasn't that bad but they obviously took no precautions removing the oil filter so the steering gear was covered and bonus! The front skid plate is perfectly positioned to get covered in oil so it can slowly drip out through the 3-4 holes in it.

Trucks are supposed to leak oil, right?
</sarcasm>
 

Jordan2929

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Ok, this is not DIY but took it in to dealer for first oil change (we get 4 free ones in Tx) and HOLY MOLY they made a mess! Was dripping oil all over my garage from the "wash out engine compartment with dirty oil" party they had.
Ok, it wasn't that bad but they obviously took no precautions removing the oil filter so the steering gear was covered and bonus! The front skid plate is perfectly positioned to get covered in oil so it can slowly drip out through the 3-4 holes in it.

Trucks are supposed to leak oil, right?
</sarcasm>
Free rust protection, there’s always a positive side.
 

Gman

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Maybe they were just trying to help you out with a little free additional 'rust-proofing' with that coat of oil? :p

ETA: I was too slow typing on this damn phone...but great minds think alike.

I had a car that had a conveniently located cross member that would do the same thing after oil changes. Sounds like a convenient excuse to go for a nice drive and blow out that excess oil.
 

BoBosarge

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I just completed my first oil change on my 2019 Ram Laramie. It has 1056 miles on it. I just wanted to throw out a few tidbits of information in case anyone was curious.

1. 1/2 inch standard wrench for the drain plug. I was really surprised to find out it was not metric.

2. I wound up using a gallon size Ziploc bag around the oil filter and it worked great. I only had about a cup full of oil run into the bag.

3. I cut my oil filter open with a buck knife and found one large speck of metal and another area where there were 4 or 5 tiny specs. All in all the filter was extremely clean which eased my mind. I read on the forum where people have been finding metal shavings in their oil filter and this really had me concerned. I just wanted to check this one out since it was a topic of discussion on the forum. I am pleased with how clean it was.

4. The tip of the drain plug, where there is a magnet located, had absolutely no metal shavings on it.

I went back with Mobil 1 full synthetic and a Mobil 1 filter. 00DD0EC6-40D4-465D-8546-C90CA20EFBE8.jpeg 13ED2C78-695F-4245-BE18-76120C9B2F1E.jpeg
 

SpeedyV

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Ok, this is not DIY but took it in to dealer for first oil change (we get 4 free ones in Tx) and HOLY MOLY they made a mess! Was dripping oil all over my garage from the "wash out engine compartment with dirty oil" party they had.
Ok, it wasn't that bad but they obviously took no precautions removing the oil filter so the steering gear was covered and bonus! The front skid plate is perfectly positioned to get covered in oil so it can slowly drip out through the 3-4 holes in it.

Trucks are supposed to leak oil, right?
</sarcasm>
I’ve been worried about this and wonder if I should do the first change myself, install a drain valve, and then collect on those 4 free changes later...
 

Edwards

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I’ve been worried about this and wonder if I should do the first change myself, install a drain valve, and then collect on those 4 free changes later...

Also, keep in mind that the free TX oil changes are restricted to the first two years. You should see a different warranty date on Mopar.com that expires two years after you took delivery.
 

Gatornation9999

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This is going to be a stupid question and I apologize in adance....

Does anyone know the shelf life of oil? I have Royal Purple 5w-20 I bought back in February or March for one of my other cars but I didn’t end up opening or using it. It’s been sitting out in my shed since. Any issues in using it on my truck? Its in unopened bottle, but has been out in the shed that’s not climate controlled through summer and part of winter.
 

ExcursionDiesel

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This is going to be a stupid question and I apologize in adance....

Does anyone know the shelf life of oil? I have Royal Purple 5w-20 I bought back in February or March for one of my other cars but I didn’t end up opening or using it. It’s been sitting out in my shed since. Any issues in using it on my truck? Its in unopened bottle, but has been out in the shed that’s not climate controlled through summer and part of winter.
In a sealed bottle....it should be good for years.
 

Jtr

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Found this on the youtube for those guys needing visuals to do the DIY change. As you can see he would have benefited from using a bag trick over the filter.

 

VictoriaFarm

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This is going to be a stupid question and I apologize in adance....

Does anyone know the shelf life of oil? I have Royal Purple 5w-20 I bought back in February or March for one of my other cars but I didn’t end up opening or using it. It’s been sitting out in my shed since. Any issues in using it on my truck? Its in unopened bottle, but has been out in the shed that’s not climate controlled through summer and part of winter.

The oil will still be good but the additives will settle. Make sure that you shake it thoroughly before use.
 

rrlorentzen

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I usually punch a few holes in the filter with an awl and let it drain before taking it off, almost no mess at all.
 

NYRAM

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Why doesn’t anyone use the molar filters, I never had any issues with them? I always like to use the OEM stuff. Mopar on my mopars. Ac delco in my GMs.
 

19BH

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I usually use Bosch premium on all my vehicles.
 

stevj

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I think I am going to try one of these.
https://www.nospillsystems.com/
View attachment 9045 View attachment 9046 View attachment 9047

I am not sure which one yet though. I like the compact, but I think it drains slower than the others. The quick disconnect version seems excellent as long as it is not too big. My truck does go off road often, but for farm use, not hardcore off-roading or rock crawling that is why I have my Jeeps. Any of the options look smaller than the valve type drains.

I think you'll find the front sway bar gets in the way of that because of the orientation and location of the oil pan drain.
I put a Fumoto 106SX on mine and it wedges between the oil pan and front sway bar quite nicely.

Steve
 
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stevj

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I think you'll find the front sway bar gets in the way of that because of the orientation and location of the oil pan drain.
I put a Fumoto 106SX on mine and it wedges between the oil pan and front sway bar quite nicely.

Steve


Just double-checked under the beast and the sway bar was clear of the drain plug area with my air suspension set to NORMAL. Seems, because of the sway bar shape and proximity to the oil pan, it only really gets in the way when the Ram is lifted by the frame (which is how I set up my vehicle for oil change), causing the front suspension to be at full droop. That's what causes the sway bar to be in the way.
What that means is, triple-check that sway bar motion, especially with your vehicle raised, will not impact and damage whatever you replace the stock drain plug with, because, well....you know.

Steve
 

Cudapower

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In a sealed bottle....it should be good for years.
Oil has been in the ground since the dinosaurs. Virtually no shelf life and additives are made to be stable. I would use oil 5 years old and not bat an eye even 10 years old if it was a current number.
 

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