Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
will do
You might still be able to. I never talked to my dealership, only called the Stellantis warranty line. They asked why I didn't take it to the dealership and I told them it was after hours on a Saturday and it would have to be towed and wouldn't be seen until Monday when they opened. Surprised they didn't need me to verify my mileage at all... Just was told check in the mail today, so we'll see if it is real or not
That is low, equates to a battery charge level of app. 40% when not charging. Just checked my truck while idling, 14.1 volts (seen it down to 13 something when battery fully charged) my Fluke 87 IV says 14.12 VDC, none e-torque here, should not make a difference.
Yeah I don't think it's charging at all, taking it to the dealer Friday
14.20-14.30
5thgenrams.com
that is a small battery@RamCares 2021 Laramie hemi etorque built 7/21, with a battery date of 2/21. ~2,500 miles. 12” screen if that matters with the H/K stereo.
Did a couple hour drive on 10/16. Truck sat from 10/18 to 10/23, took a 2 mile trip, then sat until 10/27. Electronics came on, loud pop from the speakers like a fuse was blowing, several spark sounds under the hood. Tried it a few times, then everything went dead. Brought just the battery to Ziegler in Schaumburg. They ran a quick test, but said they couldn’t check it until it was charged. Then said I would need to have the truck towed in for them to investigate further. They wouldn’t arrange for a tow, I would have to call roadside assistance or another company they gave me. The attitude felt like they couldn’t have cared less that my new truck was dead already and didn’t offer to charge it for me.
I did get it charged at the local O’Reilly, but haven’t driven the truck yet. Electronics did come back on, but I didn’t start it since I wasn’t going to drive it right then.
Given the need for the thread and all of the comments here and the Facebook group, sounds like I need to buy an aftermarket AGM battery to have it operate properly. Such a waste and a shame.
www.interstatebatteries.com
that is a small battery
Interstate Batteries - Product Detail
if you look above you will see a pic of my battery and a volt meter.did you take a reading when its on "Load"
that why you can see if its the alternator.if you look above again you will see what my voltage reading while its "UnderLoad".we all here made sure when we upgraded that not only it would be a "AGM"but the next size bigger..H8.but we are following when you do
Yes I've done so many tests during the last year with both the stock battery and the Odyssey H7 that I bought. First off, I kept my stock battery around and it's still fine when I thought it was the issue. That didn't bother me though as I was quite willing to replace it with an AGM battery. I actually put 2 different meters on the battery terminals on several occasions and compared it to the readings on the instrument cluster and can confirm that the cluster is accurate. What I also found was inconsistency on the alternator voltage. I've seen it as high as 14.8V and as low as 14. 2V which I thought was rather odd. That includes both long and short commutes. One day it would go to 14.4V for example and the next day it could goto 14.6V it was all over the place. I also measured the battery current while the truck was off with both a clamp on meter and a multi-meter (first time was to test the accuracy of the clamp meter). What I found was the truck has a mind of its own. The short version: sometimes the current dropped in the 20-50mA range right away and sometimes it remained over 500mA for over an hour. It was so random that I just gave up!if you look above you will see a pic of my battery and a volt meter.did you take a reading when its on "Load"
hey brother i know what you mean.i am presently using that"Curt trailer"harness for my lightbar under the tailgate("LOF")and running a 800watt amp.but still able to maintain my voltage.maybe the H8 might work.i mean what do you got to loose now.got to try another battery anyway.no you letter was not to long.
at least now we have a better understanding of what is going on now ....P.s look at all the junk i got going on in my truck(Lights,amp,etc)
Haha yeah you're definitely worse than me!hey brother i know what you mean.i am presently using that"Curt trailer"harness for my lightbar under the tailgate("LOF")and running a 800watt amp.but still able to maintain my voltage.maybe the H8 might work.i mean what do you got to loose now.got to try another battery anyway.no you letter was not to long.
If you have replaced with an Odyssey 94R H7 and still have issues, a larger battery won’t solve this problem imho. Odyssey batteries are top of the line. In July I replaced the 9 year old Odyssey 34/78 1500DT in my drag car that is very close to the same specs as a 94R H7. This cranks a 14-1 SBC and uses an alternator for charging. I never charge it. Not even during the winter when it’s sitting in the car for 4-5 months. I gave the 9 yr old Odyssey battery to a friend that put it in his old chevy pickup. Still works.
With all of your accessories I think you should consider adding a dual battery setup.
I have a CTEK battery charger and put it on the Odyssey when I got home that day and left it on the entire night. Drove to work the following morning and when I arrived I thought about putting the charger on during my shift (I work 12 hour shifts) but I decided not to and see what happens. After my shift I remote started the truck when I was about 20ft away from it (so I could hear it good) and it fired right up without issue, meaning the Odyssey is still ok. The day in question was the first time the truck wouldn't start and I had to boost it. Prior to that the issue was strictly with remote starting where the battery voltage wasn't high enough to remote start but the truck would fire up manually no problem.
