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Connect subwoofer amp with 8.4 screen and 6 speaker system

Atvdinner said:
I'm back! Just got done replacing all the speakers all the way around. They sound nice but, as others have said there is a huge problem with my anc. I was looking back at the other threads and I lost where it went over how to disable it. I don't have an amp or one of the things like the dsr1. It's it possible to disable it without cutting so it's not permanent?
Click to expand...

Yes you can disable it without cutting. I recommend you not cut it. You have a few options. See below.

1.) ANC stays connected: Go back and install your stock speakers and check the polarity of each one before removing it. Then reinstall the new speakers and be sure to match the polarity that the stock speakers had. In some cases you might have to reverse the polarity of the metra harness, either by releasing the pins and swapping them or by cutting the wires on the metra, flipping/resoldering. This is the most work but also your best shot at getting the speakers to work and not interfere with the ANC.

2.) Bypass ANC: you can unpin the ANC mic wires in the large white wiring harness. There is a thread explaining this if this is the route you want to take I can point you to it. Unlike cutting the wires you can easily reconnect.

3.) Bypass ANC: purchase the harness below and connect to the anc. It simply doesn’t have the anc mic wires connected in the harness so it is essentially unpinning them for you.
 
Patsy1099 said:
Yes you can disable it without cutting. I recommend you not cut it. You have a few options. See below.

1.) ANC stays connected: Go back and install your stock speakers and check the polarity of each one before removing it. Then reinstall the new speakers and be sure to match the polarity that the stock speakers had. In some cases you might have to reverse the polarity of the metra harness, either by releasing the pins and swapping them or by cutting the wires on the metra, flipping/resoldering. This is the most work but also your best shot at getting the speakers to work and not interfere with the ANC.

2.) Bypass ANC: you can unpin the ANC mic wires in the large white wiring harness. There is a thread explaining this if this is the route you want to take I can point you to it. Unlike cutting the wires you can easily reconnect.

3.) Bypass ANC: purchase the harness below and connect to the anc. It simply doesn’t have the anc mic wires connected in the harness so it is essentially unpinning them for you.
Click to expand...

Dumb question. Is unpinning something from the harness just yanking it out of the thing? I haven't done anything like that. I found the thread thread that has a wiring diagram on it, it doesn't seem to go over the process of unpinning it? maybe you could point me in the right direction, please.


edit* found a youtube video explaining how to unpin, now i just need to find the right wires.
 
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Alright, I tried to Unpin but I couldn't figure it out. I'm pretty sure I know what wires are coming out (useing a diagram). I can't figure out how get the actual wire out.
 
Atvdinner said:
Alright, I tried to Unpin but I couldn't figure it out. I'm pretty sure I know what wires are coming out (useing a diagram). I can't figure out how get the actual wire out.
Click to expand...

Give me a minute. I’ll find it. I believe @YoAdrian covers it. It requires: releasing the locking bar, using a small pin to release the pin while simultaneously pulling on the wire from behind. Kind of a pain but once you get the hang of the first one, the others are easy.
 
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Atvdinner said:
Alright, I tried to Unpin but I couldn't figure it out. I'm pretty sure I know what wires are coming out (useing a diagram). I can't figure out how get the actual wire out.
Click to expand...

Ok here ya go. Just had to scroll thru the first 9 pages or so o_O you would think after reading all 38 pages like 5 times I would have it memorized by now!

Just make sure that after you release the locking bar, you are gently pulling the wire you are attempting to release from behind the harness while at the same time using the pin to release the pin.

5thgenrams.com

5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

Did check to see if the dash was out of phase as well? I didn't. I changed them before I did the doors. Their sound gave me no reason to check them. They only take about 5 minutes to get out so I may do it tomorrow.
5thgenrams.com 5thgenrams.com
 
Well... It sounds good. However I have run into my first problem.

The ANC is shutting down. Sometimes on initial power on, sometimes during regular music play.

I dont know why that is happening...

Any clues from any one?
 
Whiskey_tango said:
Okay, I pulled the trigger on a Kenwood Excelon 5 channel amp to push the 4 door Kicker 6x9s and now I have 500W @ 2ohm for a sub.

I think I've narrowed it down to either a JL 8W3 in their factory ported box OR a 10W1 in a small sealed box. Anyone have an opinion on those two options?
Click to expand...
That is an excellent amp. I have 2 of them. I do believe the subwoofer channel is 600w not 500w
 
craulston said:
Well... It sounds good. However I have run into my first problem.

The ANC is shutting down. Sometimes on initial power on, sometimes during regular music play.

I dont know why that is happening...

Any clues from any one?
Click to expand...

What do you mean the anc is ****ting down? How do you know?

Are you getting loud reverberations through your speakers at rpms around 1500-2000? If so it’s not the anc shutting down it’s the anc causing problems.
 
Patsy1099 said:
What do you mean the anc is ****ting down? How do you know?

Are you getting loud reverberations through your speakers at rpms around 1500-2000? If so it’s not the anc shutting down it’s the anc causing problems.
Click to expand...

Nothing through the speakers...

All music signal going through the ANC stops. The only this that play is the Subwoofer.
Shut the truck down, connect it without the sub, wait.... And regular operation is resumed.

I have heard of others adding resistors to let the deck know there is a certain expected load but all this is doing is grabbing the signal from the deck.
 
craulston said:
Nothing through the speakers...

All music signal going through the ANC stops. The only this that play is the Subwoofer.
Shut the truck down, connect it without the sub, wait.... And regular operation is resumed.

I have heard of others adding resistors to let the deck know there is a certain expected load but all this is doing is grabbing the signal from the deck.
Click to expand...

Apologies if you stated this already but I can’t easily read the thread back because I’m on the road. Have you done any mods/upgrades to the system? Besides swapping speakers that is. Did you change amps/subs?

If your anc is still physically connected then it doesn’t have anything to do with loads/resistors because you are still going through the anc/amp and therefore the head unit will see the load. If you’ve introduced an in-line amp and/or removed the anc then that’s a different story. Otherwise it sounds like something is causing your head unit to stop putting out a signal or your amp to go into protected mode (if you have an alpine/hk). Different things can cause that. A short, overload, bad ground, bad speaker, software glitch. Best way to resolve that is to let the dealer fix it since they will be able to test and isolate faster and easier than you. Plus why go down that rabbit hole.
 
Patsy1099 said:
Apologies if you stated this already but I can’t easily read the thread back because I’m on the road. Have you done any mods/upgrades to the system? Besides swapping speakers that is. Did you change amps/subs?

If your anc is still physically connected then it doesn’t have anything to do with loads/resistors because you are still going through the anc/amp and therefore the head unit will see the load. If you’ve introduced an in-line amp and/or removed the anc then that’s a different story. Otherwise it sounds like something is causing your head unit to stop putting out a signal or your amp to go into protected mode (if you have an alpine/hk). Different things can cause that. A short, overload, bad ground, bad speaker, software glitch. Best way to resolve that is to let the dealer fix it since they will be able to test and isolate faster and easier than you. Plus why go down that rabbit hole.
Click to expand...

The ANC Resistors thought was just an idea... I have heard of some others having that issue.

I do not have the Alpine system, only 6 speaker standard and my equipment is not shutting down, the subs continue to play which leads me to believe the radio is putting out a signal.

It could be a bad connection, I have checked them all several times and they have all checked out.
 
Does ANC have to be disconnected? Why is it involved in adding an amp?

I'm very experienced in custom car audio but know nothing about ANC. I want to amplify all the stock speakers and a sub that I'll build via my JL 900/5. I want to integrate via the PAC piece (or the RF/Maestro piece if it had better reviews) and run my JL amp outputs to the stock speaker plug at the stock amp (not running new speaker wire and can always put everything back to stock). And of course I want all the chimes and systems to still work as designed and not be too loud. Is this possible or a pipe dream?

Thanks!
 
I'm getting close! I have a detailed set of question out to PAC – awaiting answers.
 
Couple questions?

- do you need this at all? Cant you just connect an amp since there isn't one there? How does this help?
- is this better/different than the jl fix86?
 
Patsy1099 said:
There’s a lot of info to process for sure. Doesn’t help that Ram has made upgrading audio especially tricky. Here’s my two cents. Take things in steps:

- first upgrade your two dash 3.5’s (middle one is blank on the base setup). Popular choices are Infinity, JL Audio, Kicker, JBL. You will need metra harnesses. If you purchase your speakers from Crutchfield they will include for free.
- next you can upgrade you door 6x9’s. The door panels are in tight. First one is a huge pita. After that you will get the hang of it. Check these audio threads for how to remove door panels. If you can’t find the info let us know and we will point you to it. Speakers choices are largely same as above.
This is also where the anc drone is most likely to creep up. You can try matching the phase of the stock speakers by: checking the phase, then making sure metra harness and new speaker match, if not, swap the metra pins/wires.....otherwise you can just choose to disconnect/bypass the anc completely (see below). Keep in mind that if you add an amp you will have to verify/correct phase of certain speakers by swapping polarity....this can be check and done at the amp. No biggie.
- when deciding to bypass/disconnect the anc you have a couple of options. 1.) Follow the instructions for unpinning the anc mics 2.) purchase a $20 anc bypass harness or 3.) purchase a new wiring harness adapter (link below) for $40 that will allow you to easily connect an amp(s)/subs and then you can either unpin/cut the anc wires in this harness (doesn’t matter if you cut since you can simply remove this harness down the road and return to stock).

If you tackle it in pieces like this it won’t seem as overwhelming and things will make more sense as you go along. Ask questions along the way. Keep us posted. Here’s the harness which allows simple connections for your speaker ins/outs so you can connect a sub/amp. It connects right into your anc harness under the driver’s seat.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wjp3g...C-APH-CH01-AmpPro-Harness.html?omnews=2795447
Click to expand...
So with this amppro harness, you wont need a LOC?
 
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