Connect subwoofer amp with 8.4 screen and 6 speaker system

[Whiskey_tango]

If you bypass the ANC completely by removing mic wires, besides the speaker wires do you need to connect together the other wires for the canbus etc? You’re using a harness but if I just wanted to jumper it by hand I’m trying to figure out what I need to do besides connecting the speaker wires. What other wires need to be connected?

Other than speaker wires I left the CAN wires and Crank position wires connected. I have no idea if that makes any difference. I contemplated eliminating the ANC altogether, because I think my amp will fit there. For simplicity I left it in for now.

 

[Patsy1099]

Other than speaker wires I left the CAN wires and Crank position wires connected. I have no idea if that makes any difference. I contemplated eliminating the ANC altogether, because I think my amp will fit there. For simplicity I left it in for now.

Yeah tried eliminating the anc completely and connected just the speaker wires with no luck. I have tried both going thru a new amp and just connecting the speaker wires from the white harness (c2) to c3, without luck. So I’m thinking the CAN wires need to be connected. I am going to try that.

 

[Conch007]

Has anyone connected a subwoofer amp to the standard 8.4, 6 speaker system?
If so, where did you get the signal from?

I just purchased my sub box and am getting everything lined up to install.

http://www.foxacoustics.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DCC-212-V-19

I have just did it this week although it’s not as easy as just buying the speaker. I do suggest you get the factory speaker then you will need another amp for the sub I had it done at an audio place. While there is a loose plug behind the seat it is not for the stereo at least there is no lead under there with the stock stereo that will work. I had a 6 channel vx600/61 jbl installed along with a xd 300 mono amp for the sub. I also replaced the factory speakers with focal. Ps165 front and rear. Makes a hell of a difference they mounted the speaker in factory spot and made a panel for the amps and installed it on the opposite side behind the seat on the wall turned out nice you don’t see it it’s behind the seat and I don’t loose my storage under seat in my quad cab

 

[Conch007]

Maybe I grabbed the wrong part number? I started by searching for parts for my DT truck and saw the subwoofer cabinet. I'll have to do it again and double check, but now when I try to search for it again, it's not showing up. LOL

I was about to put that factory jbl 8 in and the guy saw I had the factory speaker he said it’s a better speaker he could make it work just switching out the end and adding an amp

 

[Conch007]

I have just did it this week although it’s not as easy as just buying the speaker. I do suggest you get the factory speaker then you will need another amp for the sub I had it done at an audio place. While there is a loose plug behind the seat it is not for the stereo at least there is no lead under there with the stock stereo that will work. I had a 6 channel vx600/61 jbl installed along with a xd 300 mono amp for the sub. I also replaced the factory speakers with focal. Ps165 front and rear. Makes a hell of a difference they mounted the speaker in factory spot and made a panel for the amps and installed it on the opposite side behind the seat on the wall turned out nice you don’t see it it’s behind the seat and I don’t loose my storage under seat in my quad cab

 

[Thatsme06]

Nice! I ended up going with an Alpine Type R 8. Made a small (.33 ft3) box to fit inside the storage under the passenger back seat. Amp is mounted on the hump under the middle of the back seat.

I bought this harness

PAC APH-CH01 AmpPro Harness

Works with PAC's AmpPro module to install a new amplifier in select 2007-2018 Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and RAM vehicles with factory amp

www.crutchfield.com

And it worked out perfectly. Left the ANC mics unconnected. The labels on the harness don't match up because it's for a different make/year, but you have access to all 22 pins and 16 pins. Took the ANC output to RCAs to the amp and the output from the amp goes back to speaker harness at the ANC unit. All plug and play, ZERO cutting or tapping of factory wiring. I could have the whole thing back to factory in a few minutes.

I'll post some pics after I carpet the enclosure and clean up the wires.

So this harness plugs right into the DT body ANC module with no issues? Same connectors, wiring, etc. It shows for 07-18 so just want to make sure.

 

[Whiskey_tango]

So this harness plugs right into the DT body ANC module with no issues? Same connectors, wiring, etc. It shows for 07-18 so just want to make sure.

Yes. You get get a male and female plug for both the 22 pin (ANC input) and 16 pin (ANC output).

 

[Thatsme06]

Yes. You get get a male and female plug for both the 22 pin (ANC input) and 16 pin (ANC output).

Perfect! Just what I was looking for.

 

[Whiskey_tango]

Finished up the carpet.

 

[Anthony1017]

Finished up the carpet.

Did you connect all your speaker to the amp also?

 

[Whiskey_tango]

Did you connect all your speaker to the amp also?

Yes, 50W@ 4ohm each to the kicker 6x9's in the front and rear doors. 500W @ 2ohm to the sub.

 

[mpgenaw]

Nice! I ended up going with an Alpine Type R 8. Made a small (.33 ft3) box to fit inside the storage under the passenger back seat. Amp is mounted on the hump under the middle of the back seat.

I bought this harness

PAC APH-CH01 AmpPro Harness

Works with PAC's AmpPro module to install a new amplifier in select 2007-2018 Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and RAM vehicles with factory amp

www.crutchfield.com

And it worked out perfectly. Left the ANC mics unconnected. The labels on the harness don't match up because it's for a different make/year, but you have access to all 22 pins and 16 pins. Took the ANC output to RCAs to the amp and the output from the amp goes back to speaker harness at the ANC unit. All plug and play, ZERO cutting or tapping of factory wiring. I could have the whole thing back to factory in a few minutes.

I'll post some pics after I carpet the enclosure and clean up the wires.

What would it cost for me to have you build me a harness?

 

[Patsy1099]

What would it cost for me to have you build me a harness?

Whiskey purchased the harness he referenced in the Crutchfield link

 

[Atvdinner]

I have information overload. Between the this thread and the other I'm lost as to what my options are.
I have the base six speaker set up with five inch head unit. My gaol is to swap speakers in the doors and add a amp for a sub. The plan includes keeping the stock head unit for now.
My basic understanding is I will have to disable the anc by Unpinning the mic wires, this is not a problem for me.

What is killing me is the harnesses, what I need, what works with what. The dsr1, the lc2i, loop back harness. It's all new to me, I don't understand how it works or what I need to achieve my goals.

I think i understand I need to get the signal from the anc to the amp some how and this is achieved via dsr1 or the lc2i. Do you need both or do they even do the same thing? I guess I just don't understand how it works fundamentally and the more I read the less I understand. My last install was in my 2016 ram 1500 and was easier.

I'm sorry if this is redundant but I have read both threads over the past three days and I'm paralyzed with information. Any light shed on my situation would be much appreciated.

 

[Patsy1099]

I have information overload. Between the this thread and the other I'm lost as to what my options are.
I have the base six speaker set up with five inch head unit. My gaol is to swap speakers in the doors and add a amp for a sub. The plan includes keeping the stock head unit for now.
My basic understanding is I will have to disable the anc by Unpinning the mic wires, this is not a problem for me.

What is killing me is the harnesses, what I need, what works with what. The dsr1, the lc2i, loop back harness. It's all new to me, I don't understand how it works or what I need to achieve my goals.

I think i understand I need to get the signal from the anc to the amp some how and this is achieved via dsr1 or the lc2i. Do you need both or do they even do the same thing? I guess I just don't understand how it works fundamentally and the more I read the less I understand. My last install was in my 2016 ram 1500 and was easier.

I'm sorry if this is redundant but I have read both threads over the past three days and I'm paralyzed with information. Any light shed on my situation would be much appreciated.

There’s a lot of info to process for sure. Doesn’t help that Ram has made upgrading audio especially tricky. Here’s my two cents. Take things in steps:

- first upgrade your two dash 3.5’s (middle one is blank on the base setup). Popular choices are Infinity, JL Audio, Kicker, JBL. You will need metra harnesses. If you purchase your speakers from Crutchfield they will include for free.
- next you can upgrade you door 6x9’s. The door panels are in tight. First one is a huge pita. After that you will get the hang of it. Check these audio threads for how to remove door panels. If you can’t find the info let us know and we will point you to it. Speakers choices are largely same as above.
This is also where the anc drone is most likely to creep up. You can try matching the phase of the stock speakers by: checking the phase, then making sure metra harness and new speaker match, if not, swap the metra pins/wires.....otherwise you can just choose to disconnect/bypass the anc completely (see below). Keep in mind that if you add an amp you will have to verify/correct phase of certain speakers by swapping polarity....this can be check and done at the amp. No biggie.
- when deciding to bypass/disconnect the anc you have a couple of options. 1.) Follow the instructions for unpinning the anc mics 2.) purchase a $20 anc bypass harness or 3.) purchase a new wiring harness adapter (link below) for $40 that will allow you to easily connect an amp(s)/subs and then you can either unpin/cut the anc wires in this harness (doesn’t matter if you cut since you can simply remove this harness down the road and return to stock).

If you tackle it in pieces like this it won’t seem as overwhelming and things will make more sense as you go along. Ask questions along the way. Keep us posted. Here’s the harness which allows simple connections for your speaker ins/outs so you can connect a sub/amp. It connects right into your anc harness under the driver’s seat.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wjp3g...C-APH-CH01-AmpPro-Harness.html?omnews=2795447

 

[Atvdinner]

There’s a lot of info to process for sure. Doesn’t help that Ram has made upgrading audio especially tricky. Here’s my two cents. Take things in steps:

- first upgrade your two dash 3.5’s (middle one is blank on the base setup). Popular choices are Infinity, JL Audio, Kicker, JBL. You will need metra harnesses. If you purchase your speakers from Crutchfield they will include for free.
- next you can upgrade you door 6x9’s. The door panels are in tight. First one is a huge pita. After that you will get the hang of it. Check these audio threads for how to remove door panels. If you can’t find the info let us know and we will point you to it. Speakers choices are largely same as above.
This is also where the anc drone is most likely to creep up. You can try matching the phase of the stock speakers by: checking the phase, then making sure metra harness and new speaker match, if not, swap the metra pins/wires.....otherwise you can just choose to disconnect/bypass the anc completely (see below). Keep in mind that if you add an amp you will have to verify/correct phase of certain speakers by swapping polarity....this can be check and done at the amp. No biggie.
- when deciding to bypass/disconnect the anc you have a couple of options. 1.) Follow the instructions for unpinning the anc mics 2.) purchase a $20 anc bypass harness or 3.) purchase a new wiring harness adapter (link below) for $40 that will allow you to easily connect an amp(s)/subs and then you can either unpin/cut the anc wires in this harness (doesn’t matter if you cut since you can simply remove this harness down the road and return to stock).

If you tackle it in pieces like this it won’t seem as overwhelming and things will make more sense as you go along. Ask questions along the way. Keep us posted. Here’s the harness which allows simple connections for your speaker ins/outs so you can connect a sub/amp. It connects right into your anc harness under the driver’s seat.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wjp3g...C-APH-CH01-AmpPro-Harness.html?omnews=2795447

First off, I'd like to thank you for the information and advice, It's definitely helpful. A few questions pop up when looking to swap speakers. The dash ones are pretty straight forward. The door speakers in the front and back. Crutchfield said 6x9's don't fit in the front. I have read that they should work for both front and back, is this the case? Also, I was talking to an advisor and said I needed two ohm speakers in the front doors becusse if I messed with the ohms it could cause issues. Is this true? What ohms should I be going with. I don't plan on adding an amp to them, at least in the near future. Any suggestions?

 

[Patsy1099]

First off, I'd like to thank you for the information and advice, It's definitely helpful. A few questions pop up when looking to swap speakers. The dash ones are pretty straight forward. The door speakers in the front and back. Crutchfield said 6x9's don't fit in the front. I have read that they should work for both front and back, is this the case? Also, I was talking to an advisor and said I needed two ohm speakers in the front doors becusse if I messed with the ohms it could cause issues. Is this true? What ohms should I be going with. I don't plan on adding an amp to them, at least in the near future. Any suggestions?

Most welcome. Not sure why Crutchfield would say that. You have 6x9’s in there now and 6x9’s fit just fine. Maybe they are saying that because of the depth? It’s a bit shallow because of the window but you will be just fine. I am very happy with my Infinity’s for dash and doors but it is a matter of preference and price point. When you install the doors I suggest doing it with the window down. This way you can see the depth you are dealing with. Make sure to zip tie the metra harness nice and tight so it doesn’t snag on the window as it goes up/down. Keeping the speakers close to 3ohm and you will be fine. It’s a combination of ohm/dB so your overall impedance and output can match up. Also nice to keep dash and doors the same if possible so they play nicely together. Not necessary though. Again, I’m happy with the infinity but you have the other options I mentioned as well.

 

[craulston]

Wow... A lot's been happening here since I first posted... Glad to see all the progress!
I also finally got mine completed.

I used 2 of the PAC APH-CH01 AmpPro Harness's to make one that I could pull a signal from.
I did not remove the ANC.
1 Audio Control LC-1.1500 and two custom 12's in a FOXBOX.

Pics attached.

 

[Atvdinner]

I'm back! Just got done replacing all the speakers all the way around. They sound nice but, as others have said there is a huge problem with my anc. I was looking back at the other threads and I lost where it went over how to disable it. I don't have an amp or one of the things like the dsr1. It's it possible to disable it without cutting so it's not permanent?

 

[Thatsme06]

Wow... A lot's been happening here since I first posted... Glad to see all the progress!
I also finally got mine completed.

I used 2 of the PAC APH-CH01 AmpPro Harness's to make one that I could pull a signal from.
I did not remove the ANC.
1 Audio Control LC-1.1500 and two custom 12's in a FOXBOX.

Pics attached.

Nice setup how's it sound?