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Changed Dash Speakers To Kickers...WOW!

Brobee

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How did they turn out?
I think it's like the OP said - much clearer. I did have to turn down the treble and mid-range in the radio settings though, like many said they had to do. I've only taken a very short drive since installing them though.
 

Johno

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I think it's like the OP said - much clearer. I did have to turn down the treble and mid-range in the radio settings though, like many said they had to do. I've only taken a very short drive since installing them though.
How hard is it to change the dash speakets?
 

grooves12

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I'm not surprised. Essentially with the door and dash in parallel you have created a current divider with close to equal resistance for both loops, meaning both speakers see equal amounts of power where the factory is 8 ohm in the dash and 2 ohm in the door sending 4 times the power to the door sensitivty of the factory speakers is unknown. The GX302s have a sensitivy of 89 db and the CDT 6x9s you used have a sensitivty of 89.4. So an even power split isn't quite right for the matching sensitivity. The difference if you use a JBL GX962 or 963 in the door with a 302 in the dash is that the sensitivty on the JBL 6x9 is 94 db versus 89 db in the dash. A 3 db difference in sensitivity translates to about double the output for the same power input and here we have a 5 db difference so even with equal power distribution the 6x9 is going to perform more efficiently. One of the reasons mixing and matching brands isn't always a good idea unless things like sensitivity are accounted for, manufactures design there speakers to work together across a model line so mixing them with something else might not have the desired results so even swapping to a 4 ohm speaker might not improve things if the sensitivity on it is significantly higher than the GX302 you're replacing. you may want to consider the CDT 2 inch hybrids that come with cross overs and volume control to dial in the highs to your liking.

Thanks. You explanation makes total sense and I didn't consider that when I made my purchases. I thought about going with the JBL 6x9s, but didn't want the sound stage too low and have had good results with CDT in the past.

I ended up getting JL Audio C2-350x and swapped them in for the JBLs. It made a huge improvement. The JL Audios aren't as harsh on the highs as the JBLs and they are much better balanced with the CDT 6x9s... once I tweaked the EQ a bit the sound is really crisp and clean and stays that way throughout the volume range. It sounds lightyears ahead of stock and has enough bass that I'm questioning whether I really need the JL 10" sub I ordered (But I'm gonna put it in anyways. :))

I probably could have saved some money if I went JBL all around... but I'm extremely happy with my setup now.
 

Chippy

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The JL Audio are a real sweet upgrade to the alpine system for sure..I’m done it’s good enough.
 

fotomatt1

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Metra 72-7902 for the dash
Metra 72-6514 for the doors, one thing to note if you do the doors, they are reverse polarity so the wires on the adapter need to be swapped. + to - , - to +.

Everything you want to know about upgrading your factory speakers whether base 6 system, Alpine or HK is all in this thread.
I've replaced all the factory Alpine speakers with JBL GX series. Just an FYI the Alpine system uses the same speakers in the doors as the base 6 speaker system. The only only difference is that the Alpine has a Factory amp pushing more power to them.

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/5th-gen-stock-stereo-upgrade-options.926/
How hard is it to take the door panels off to do the door speakers?
 

fotomatt1

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The JL Audio are a real sweet upgrade to the alpine system for sure..I’m done it’s good enough.

Did the JL's drop right in and fit under the speaker grills with no modifications?
 

Billet1500 4x4

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How hard is it to take the door panels off to do the door speakers?
The rear doors are the easiest start with those first to get comfortable with the process. Drivers door is the hardest depending on what trim level truck you have, if you have the memory function, that switch makes it a little tricky I have noted it on the walk through, it has an odd connector and very little slack in the wiring. I have attached the manufacture instructions for removal. you will notice the one for the front door has a bunch of notes in red. These were notes I added for another member on here that wanted to remove his driver side door panel. Most of the notes in red that are on the front panel removal walk through apply to the rear doors as well. I have removed all 4 doors panels multiple times, really not too bad, just make sure you have the proper trim tools. You'll want both a plastic set of trim removal tools and metal set. The barbed connectors around the outside edge of the panel are really tight and the plastic tools just are not strong enough to get them to release. The right tools make the job a lot easier and will prevent scratching and damage to the panels.

Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Re...ic+trim+tools&qid=1554910294&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A set of picks is handy as well
https://www.amazon.com/Zengi-Stainl...rds=pick+set&qid=1554910688&s=gateway&sr=8-21
 

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  • Front Door - Door Trim Panel - Removal walkthrough.pdf
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  • Rear Door - Door Trim Panel - Removal and Installation.pdf
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VaderRebel

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Ordered a pair of Infinity 3.5". Couldn't pass up this little upgrade that everyone says makes a big difference. It can't be worse!
 

fotomatt1

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The rear doors are the easiest start with those first to get comfortable with the process. Drivers door is the hardest depending on what trim level truck you have, if you have the memory function, that switch makes it a little tricky I have noted it on the walk through, it has an odd connector and very little slack in the wiring. I have attached the manufacture instructions for removal. you will notice the one for the front door has a bunch of notes in red. These were notes I added for another member on here that wanted to remove his driver side door panel. Most of the notes in red that are on the front panel removal walk through apply to the rear doors as well. I have removed all 4 doors panels multiple times, really not too bad, just make sure you have the proper trim tools. You'll want both a plastic set of trim removal tools and metal set. The barbed connectors around the outside edge of the panel are really tight and the plastic tools just are not strong enough to get them to release. The right tools make the job a lot easier and will prevent scratching and damage to the panels.

Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Removal-Fastener-Removers-Strong/dp/B01KXN7LE6/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=174220605252&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9031866&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11467415473670469487&hvtargid=aud-676677759484:kwd-13146294036&keywords=plastic+trim+tools&qid=1554910294&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A set of picks is handy as well
https://www.amazon.com/Zengi-Stainl...rds=pick+set&qid=1554910688&s=gateway&sr=8-21

Thank you! Will I notice a big difference from changing just the dash speakers?
 

fotomatt1

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Absolutely...that's what this whole post started as! Lol

Thanks! now I just have to figure out of the JL's actually drop right in since Crutchfield says they don't fit. I don't have to switch polarity of the dash speakers?
 

fotomatt1

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Ordered a pair of Infinity 3.5". Couldn't pass up this little upgrade that everyone says makes a big difference. It can't be worse!

How do these compare to the JL's? I was going to get the JL's, but these are on a pretty nice sale right now.
 

wildh24

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How do you like these? I'm probably going to order a pair.
I like them quite a bit but have always like Infinity. Very well balanced speaker without harsh highs.

I've not heard the JLs but my guess is that they would be similar. Both use similar materials for the tweeters which is textile based vs a metal. In my experience, that tends to soften them up a bit in sound. It's somewhat personal preference, but I like that sound better.

Amazon had the infinity reference series very cheap. Gotta order harnesses, but nonetheless....
 

fotomatt1

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I like them quite a bit but have always like Infinity. Very well balanced speaker without harsh highs.

I've not heard the JLs but my guess is that they would be similar. Both use similar materials for the tweeters which is textile based vs a metal. In my experience, that tends to soften them up a bit in sound. It's somewhat personal preference, but I like that sound better.

Amazon had the infinity reference series very cheap. Gotta order harnesses, but nonetheless....

Which harnesses do I need to order? Amazon has them in stock at a low price.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

fotomatt1

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Metra 72-7902 for the dash
Metra 72-6514 for the doors, one thing to note if you do the doors, they are reverse polarity so the wires on the adapter need to be swapped. + to - , - to +.

Everything you want to know about upgrading your factory speakers whether base 6 system, Alpine or HK is all in this thread.
I've replaced all the factory Alpine speakers with JBL GX series. Just an FYI the Alpine system uses the same speakers in the doors as the base 6 speaker system. The only only difference is that the Alpine has a Factory amp pushing more power to them.

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/5th-gen-stock-stereo-upgrade-options.926/

Amazon doesn't seem to have the 72-7902. Is there another option for these?
 

Neokane

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And how's the HK in this debate?

I have the HK system, I don't think it's a drop-in considering there's supposed to be 2 speakers in each grill, no?


I would be interested in this as well..

and to answer your question, I think the 19 speaker is a marketing ploy.. they are counting each tweeter, woofer, and sub as individual speakers.
 

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