Anyone wanna help me with this mystery?

[Detroitmikeb]

OK I will try to make this detailed but short. My truck has 5,000 miles on it. No issues at all. 20’ wheels 275/55/20 tires.

Suspension wise it was all stock and I added a hellwig sway bar and ran it on the middle setting for a while but didn’t drive much.

I saw some people use CORE 4X4 end links and they looked cooler than stock so I got them (bushings not the joints). The ride got a little rougher and didn’t really improve handling more than the hellwig alone but they looked sweet.

Then I was getting my tires rotated and discount tire scraped all of my wheels up. Without any argument they offered me any wheels I wanted that they sold. So I got a set of fuel Rebel 6’s +1 and I paid for 275/60/20 toyo AT3’s (SL).

So the hellwig, core end links, +1 wheels and slightly larger tires all happened within like 50 miles on the OD. Now I feel everything. Every bump, in fact my rear end feels really bouncy. The suspension as a whole just feels squirrelly.

So far, I have put the stock sway bar back on with the core end links. Same thing. Handling sucked lol comparatively.

I got the tires road force balanced (two were really off but it still didn’t fix it). Alignment all checked out on a hunter machine.

I have tried 35,36,37,38 psi in the tires. I like 38 the best but it still doesn’t feel like the RAM ride quality we love.

Do you think going to 275/60/20 could make that much difference? Would going to a +1 wheel screw up the ride? Should I try the stock end links again? I don’t know the torque specs for those so that’s stopping me.

I know this is impossible for anyone to know for sure but I’m just looking for ideas. Thanks!

 

[Wirerat]

This sounds counter intuitive but try raising the psi up to around 45. Then see how it rides.

 

[Ready Go]

Do you still have the original OEM tire setup? Putting those back on would tell you the most about the new setup. The sway bar/endlinks don't sound like the issue..especially if you went back to OEM sway bar and still have the problem.

 

[HSKR R/T]

90% it's the tires making you feel the road more. You are running an off-road tire with stiffer sidewalls. You can adjust it a little bit by tire pressure, but it's still going to be stiffer than your factory tires

 

[Ready Go]

You can get a full set of Eibach Pro-Truck Sport struts & shocks until midnight tomorrow for $455.60
Your off-road ATs and +1 wheels are possibly overwhelming the OEM set..the Eibachs will totally tame that down..and give you a more factory level ride quality.

 

[Detroitmikeb]

Thanks for the tips! I’ll try more PSI today. I still have to try original links too. I really think it might be the links.

I don’t have the oem wheels/tires

 

[Ready Go]

Thanks for the tips! I’ll try more PSI today. I still have to try original links too. I really think it might be the links.

I don’t have the oem wheels/tires

I was thinking that was probably the case.

 

[Detroitmikeb]

I was thinking that was probably the case.

I’ve never had aftermarket wheels on any car I’ve owned, so obviously I have no experience with offset. I figure these guys with the -44 offset giant tires sticking out don’t complain then +1 should be fine. I’m starting to worry I made a mistake.

 

[Ready Go]

I’ve never had aftermarket wheels on any car I’ve owned, so obviously I have no experience with offset. I figure these guys with the -44 offset giant tires sticking out don’t complain then +1 should be fine. I’m starting to worry I made a mistake.

You've only pushed the wheel out ~0.75" and that isn't a deal breaker.
It's probably the chosen tire that you have.
OEM wheel is ~34lbs and the tire is ~38lbs, so basically ~72lbs total.
My ballpark guess is that your new wheel is ~40ish and that tire is ~50ish, so ~90lbs...close to 20% increase in unsprung weight. Plus that tire will have a stiffer sidewall. Think about a strut/shock upgrade.

I'm struggling with the same exact situation..I'm thinking to change to a 275/60/20 Cooper Discovery AT3 (44lbs) on my OEM 5-spokes..only 6lbs extra weight per corner (not that I really like that even). I just ordered the Eibach Pro-Truck Sports and will do a 1.2"F/0"R with them.
In the future, I plan to do the Eibach Pro-Truck Stage-2 CO or the Icon 2-3" Stage-4 CO set and then a 20x9" (Blink has one that's 33lbs advertised on this Forum) 0 to +2mm with 275/60/20 Falken Wildpeaks AT3Ws (50lbs), so 11lbs heavier..not bad for a "big-boy look". Not 35x12.5s, but those are HEAVY!

It's all a matter of comprise!
Plus, once you modify, you HAVE to modify more..cause and affect!

 

[Rickyrocket]

When you go from the factory soft tires this happens

 

[Detroitmikeb]

Makes sense thanks! I’m going to play with pressure today and put the stock end links on and see if that helps at all.

 

[PurpleRT]

Yep try messing with air pressure first it’s not going to be Oem soft ride with AT but most modern day AT tires ride pretty damn good. I have no experiences with Toyos but I know my Wildpeaks have also rode close if not better than Oem tires for me. Worst case Discount has a pretty good exchange program but that could also be store dependent. Doubt endlinks have anything to do with it.


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[Detroitmikeb]

So here’s what’s weird. I swapped the the end links and the ride is noticeably better. The stock end links have a joint on them. The Core’s only have poly bushings on each end. So I lost articulation I guess going over rough roads (MI has some of the worst).

I put my PSI up to 40 and that helped too. The max is 44 since they are only SL

I am going to talk to core about swapping my end links for their version with Johnny Joints.

 

[Detroitmikeb]

You've only pushed the wheel out ~0.75" and that isn't a deal breaker.
It's probably the chosen tire that you have.
OEM wheel is ~34lbs and the tire is ~38lbs, so basically ~72lbs total.
My ballpark guess is that your new wheel is ~40ish and that tire is ~50ish, so ~90lbs...close to 20% increase in unsprung weight. Plus that tire will have a stiffer sidewall. Think about a strut/shock upgrade.

I'm struggling with the same exact situation..I'm thinking to change to a 275/60/20 Cooper Discovery AT3 (44lbs) on my OEM 5-spokes..only 6lbs extra weight per corner (not that I really like that even). I just ordered the Eibach Pro-Truck Sports and will do a 1.2"F/0"R with them.
In the future, I plan to do the Eibach Pro-Truck Stage-2 CO or the Icon 2-3" Stage-4 CO set and then a 20x9" (Blink has one that's 33lbs advertised on this Forum) 0 to +2mm with 275/60/20 Falken Wildpeaks AT3Ws (50lbs), so 11lbs heavier..not bad for a "big-boy look". Not 35x12.5s, but those are HEAVY!

It's all a matter of comprise!
Plus, once you modify, you HAVE to modify more..cause and affect!

Not to get off topic but I had a terrible experience with Brink. I ordered a set of wheels from them in the summer and when they arrived the paint job on them was horrendous and one of them had a bent lip. They offered me 15% off and said I had to buy another set since I waited 3 days to take them out of the packaging. I ended up arguing via PayPal and they sent me return labels. I would never buy from them again. Just letting you know.

 

[Ready Go]

Not to get off topic but I had a terrible experience with Brink. I ordered a set of wheels from them in the summer and when they arrived the paint job on them was horrendous and one of them had a bent lip. They offered me 15% off and said I had to buy another set since I waited 3 days to take them out of the packaging. I ended up arguing via PayPal and they sent me return labels. I would never buy from them again. Just letting you know.

Thanks for that info!

 

[Ready Go]

So here’s what’s weird. I swapped the the end links and the ride is noticeably better. The stock end links have a joint on them. The Core’s only have poly bushings on each end. So I lost articulation I guess going over rough roads (MI has some of the worst).

I put my PSI up to 40 and that helped too. The max is 44 since they are only SL

I am going to talk to core about swapping my end links for their version with Johnny Joints.

Interesting! Certainly possible!

 

[HSKR R/T]

So here’s what’s weird. I swapped the the end links and the ride is noticeably better. The stock end links have a joint on them. The Core’s only have poly bushings on each end. So I lost articulation I guess going over rough roads (MI has some of the worst).

I put my PSI up to 40 and that helped too. The max is 44 since they are only SL

I am going to talk to core about swapping my end links for their version with Johnny Joints.

Could be you just over tightened them? The Johnny joints do seem like a better option though

 

[Ready Go]

Could be you just over tightened them? The Johnny joints do seem like a better option though

According to Progress Technologies, when using their poly endlinks (almost identical to Core design), they suggest 52-55 ft/lbs for upper & lower endlink bolts.

 

[Detroitmikeb]

According to Progress Technologies, when using their poly endlinks (almost identical to Core design), they suggest 52-55 ft/lbs for upper & lower endlink bolts.

Core says 65 so maybe they were just too tight?

I took advantage of their Black Friday sales (today) and got the next step up end link with Johnny joint and a trackbar with Johnny joints.

1.) I love the way the blue end links look so I want to have them! Stupid I know.

2.) Since I was ordering I wanted to add the track bar anyway.

3.) My last chance to do any monkeying with the truck before winter hits.

4.) Core support is pretty good I have a feeling they will let me return my entry level end links.

 

[Ready Go]

Let us know how it works out for you..and pics too.