Anyone done the big 3 yet?

[fartsonunicorns]

Yeah I’m heading back home now, outta be able to take some tomorrow


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[ZombieSlayer]

How many feet of wire have you guys used to do this?

 

[fartsonunicorns]

any pics? I am going to do this weekend. Good idea. but a picture is worth a ton to me.

Pictures as promised.

So first wire runs from the back of the alternator to battery positive. Measure to fit, but it’s about 3’

Second wire runs from battery negative to frame. You can use the ground spot right there, but I ran it to a different one forwards because reasons. 1-3’

Third wire runs from engine block (alternator negative) to frame. I used a bolt on the front of the water pump since it was convenient. The alternator mounting bolt is also fine, but I already have a lot going on on that side of the engine bay and it was easier to hide it away on the left side. 4’

Make sure you leave enough slack for drip loops and zip tie the wires in place.

It helps to sand/wire wheel the contact points and then spray with corrosion inhibitor for extra connectivity.

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[fartsonunicorns]

How many feet of wire have you guys used to do this?

I used about 10’. But I would order 15’ cause you never know. If you’re gonna color coordinate order 5’ for positive and 10’ for ground.

I bought huge rolls of red and black though cause I’ve been rewriting my boat.


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[805myth1]

I set mine up with the ground from the alternator bolt, and I fused my power wire for future upgrades. Currently with about 2400 watts rms and voltage from 13.8 - 14.3v. Plan is for a 300 amp h/o alternator and a D4S lithium battery to run about 4200 watts

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[fartsonunicorns]

I set mine up with the ground from the alternator bolt, and I fused my power wire for future upgrades. Currently with about 2400 watts rms and voltage from 13.8 - 14.3v. Plan is for a 300 amp h/o alternator and a D4S lithium battery to run about 4200 watts

.View attachment 129340

IMHO while the fuse is certainly a good idea, it does increase resistance/voltage drop. And since the whole point of this upgrade is to decrease voltage drop, that kinda defeats the purpose of the Big 3 upgrade.

From what I’ve seen online people are split 50/50 on the fuse.

If you do wanna use a fuse, it should be as close as possible to the battery post (within 12”), and make sure the fuse (and wiring!) is rated for at least 20% over alternator output. I think our alternator maxes out at 180 amps, so use a 220 amp fuse, and appropriate wire.

And I would highly recommend using drip loops on all wiring. Basically just allow the wire to droop between connections, which prevents water from running down the wire to the connection point.

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[805myth1]

I could always just got direct lead without the fuse since it is a stock upgrade to a 220 amp, replaced my stock 180 to a used 220. But when I do eventually upgrade to a 300+, I will be adding a second power fused wire.

 

[FLiPMaRC]

I could always just got direct lead without the fuse since it is a stock upgrade to a 220 amp, replaced my stock 180 to a used 220. But when I do eventually upgrade to a 300+, I will be adding a second power fused wire.

Just curious, do BigHorns and Tradesman come with 180amp alternators? My Laramie came with a 220. I'm going to assume Limiteds also come with 220.

 

[805myth1]

Not sure, I just know my big horn came with a 180 amp alternator.

 

[fartsonunicorns]

Just curious, do BigHorns and Tradesman come with 180amp alternators? My Laramie came with a 220. I'm going to assume Limiteds also come with 220.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBLlfm4cGB%2BoE%0A

I couldn't find any info on why one alternator is spec'd over another one, but I would assume trucks with upgraded stereo systems or whatever come with the 220 amp alternator.

BAD is the sales code for 180 amp, BAJ for 220.

 

[Superslow]

Just curious, do BigHorns and Tradesman come with 180amp alternators? My Laramie came with a 220. I'm going to assume Limiteds also come with 220.

My BigHorn came with a 220A. You can check your build sheet using this tool. Just populate your VIN . FCA RAM

 

[Souths1der]

What is your preferred rust inhibitor that you sprayed on the areas you prepped with the wire wheel?

 

[fartsonunicorns]

What is your preferred rust inhibitor that you sprayed on the areas you prepped with the wire wheel?

I borrowed a bottle of this from work

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-060...866157?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1148

But I’ve heard good things about the rustoleum and WD-40 products. And those might be easier to find in a store


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[805myth1]

I took out the fuse and re ran the alternator power wire. While driving, voltage goes up to 14.5v now. Also found a mounting location for the isolator relay, just need to buy the secondary battery.

 

[ekaz]

I took out the fuse and re ran the alternator power wire. While driving, voltage goes up to 14.5v now. Also found a mounting location for the isolator relay, just need to buy the secondary battery.

What were you getting before? I'm around that voltage without the big 3 upgrade. I have the wiring and stuff to do it, not sure if I want to yet of there isn't a benefit.

 

[805myth1]

With the fuse, was up to 14.3v. Not sure I remember before big 3. Might have been up to 14.1v. But that was also with the 180 alternator not this 220 I have now.

 

[fartsonunicorns]

I took out the fuse and re ran the alternator power wire. While driving, voltage goes up to 14.5v now. Also found a mounting location for the isolator relay, just need to buy the secondary battery.


View attachment 129768

Where are you planning on mounting the second battery? I’ve been thinking about a second one for a while. So far my plan is to switch to a ram air intake and then mount a battery in the stock air box location


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[805myth1]

The battery I’m planning to get is a lithium battery so it’s only 7”x4.75”x3.5,” planning to mount it under the rear seat

 

[Shives]

So, just being MECP…. And doing this from back in the day with VW, Audi and some others where it actually came from, oh… Honda too…

Normally we took off the stock wires, and replaced them with larger wires…

Why??

In essence if you add a large ground wire with one already In place, going to the same spot, you make an antenna.. or a ground loop… that may pick up noise! We don’t want added noise to our audio, no?

Was practice that we always made new grounds, and not reusing factory ground location.. just was what we did. With so many ready ground spots on the new DT’s I get what some are doing. An sometimes I would reuse spots.

But, if anyone had any type of noise, try removing one of the grounds if you double up in the same spot.

Like, we would replace the small *** 8awg ground wire with a 1/0! Crimped and solder correctly. Also scrape away any paint and **** around the mounting spot. Add some copper paste.

220 amp is prime for 1/0. But no larger with the short distance. Ground wires should be no more then a 2-3 Ft and that’s pushing it. Don’t forget your fuse. Should be within 12-18 in of battery. (Memory recall)

Times have changed, audio install gotten more complicated… but the path of least resistance is still the same!

I’ll stop here

 

[therealsalty1]

Has anyone figured out how to upgrade the “big 3” on an eTorque Ram? Starting on my audio upgrade next week and wouldn’t dream of installing everything without upgrading the electrical, but where to even start on an eTorque?