Air Ride with DAYSTAR and REVEL Links!

[Squidward]

Got the daystar spacer and links installed on my 2019 limited with the air ride. After about a week I noticed some grinding/rubbing noise. Took a look and found the lower arm rubbing against notch on the back of the wheel
Not entirely sure what the area is called. It’s happening on both sides. Occurs when I take a hard turn left or right. Rechecked all of my connections and everything seems solid.

Anyway, has anyone else experienced this.. what could be the cause of this? I imagine it will just rub a groove in that area but will that cause significant damage to be concerned about ?

 

[Chippy]

I have same on each side I’m not concerned just try to not go to steering lock as much

 

[clazer]

Anyone with a significantly leveled nose has that, whether they know or not. With the level, you changed the contact point for the steering stop.

 

[frostymug]

Did it make the rear end bouncy like it does the front?

Does it screw up the ride quality badly?

 

[Ellisstrong]

Does it screw up the ride quality badly?

Does what?

 

[frostymug]

Does what?

Sorry the daystar level with revel links

 

[Ellisstrong]

Sorry the daystar level with revel links

It rides the same for me in the front

 

[Ryancassidy]

So I installed the Daystar leveling kit... and some links from Airlinks... But i'm not achieving the level (FYI Airlinks has been great to respond and provide thoughts), but from reading this thread folks are using the same link measurements side to side. Mine are way off.... Like 68.5mm drivers and 78mm passengers and there is still a 1/2 difference between the sides.

I have a 2021 4x4 with the ORP and KO2's in the 275/65/R20 flavor.

Technically I think I need to go down to 66 on the drivers side and up to 82 on the passengers side to get them level side to side and the rake about 1/4-3/8" back to front.

Does that seem off? I am measuring the links outside top to outside bottom. Alignment is being done tomorrow, but not having disconnected either the upper or lower control arm, I can't imagine it's that bad....

Any thoughts/guidance?

 

[NewTruckWhoDis]

So I installed the Daystar leveling kit... and some links from Airlinks... But i'm not achieving the level (FYI Airlinks has been great to respond and provide thoughts), but from reading this thread folks are using the same link measurements side to side. Mine are way off.... Like 68.5mm drivers and 78mm passengers and there is still a 1/2 difference between the sides.

I have a 2021 4x4 with the ORP and KO2's in the 275/65/R20 flavor.

Technically I think I need to go down to 66 on the drivers side and up to 82 on the passengers side to get them level side to side and the rake about 1/4-3/8" back to front.

Does that seem off? I am measuring the links outside top to outside bottom. Alignment is being done tomorrow, but not having disconnected either the upper or lower control arm, I can't imagine it's that bad....

Any thoughts/guidance?

I'm no expert, but here are some things to keep in mind or check:
-The shorter the link, the greater the lift. If you need to make one side higher, make that link shorter.

-The suspension auto levels.
Are you on level ground?
Is there anything heavy adding weight to one side?

-Does the sensor arm appear to move smoothly/freely?

Another member posted the other day that they were having issues with a link style solution on a truck with the ORP. You might try adjusting the links out to their longest setting (shortest lift) and see if things level out. That extra inch the ORP gives you could be causing issues.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Ryancassidy]

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I've got the shorter the length the greater the lift thing. I just know that the stock links are the exact same length...(unfortunately I didn't measure the height stock) so would have expected it lifted to be the same.

I'm on level ish ground.. parking pad. I tried it at my house and a neighbors and I get different measurements at both. LOL At my neighbors house I have them where I want it (1/4-3/8" rake) except the passengers rear which is showing a full inch taller than anything else (stock links).

Arms are all moving freely, I even put some grease on the ball joints when I installed.

Interesting you mention the ORP. I was considering getting the rear links and just setting the ride height at 40" all the way around. IE lower the rear a bit to compensate for having to crank up the front.

Its going to the alignment shop today but i don't expect anything major to change. Will look to see if I can find a dead level pad to test it on too.

This is my procedure for adjusting the links and measuring..

Turn Jack Mode On
Make adjustments on links
Turn Jack Mode Off
Go to Entry Exit
Go to Off Road
Go to Normal
Measure

Ryan

 

[Crotalus]

Installed the home made links and new wheels/tires yesterday. Minor rubbing on the little mud flaps behind the front wheels. Thinking about leaving as is and pretending it's baseball cards in my spokes. j/k. I will probably remove and trim today.
Please disregard the dirty truck, it has been very rainy lately.
Haven't installed the daystar spacers yet, and ride quality seems pretty OK actually. Used the same link length as Samson recommended. Ended up 1/8th inch higher in the back and I am good with that. Ground to fender is right around 40 3/4".
Wheels: 20x10 Fuel Militia
Tires: Atturo Trailblade XT 35x12.5R20

Sweet looking truck dude. Love the wheels, very unique.

 

[ADK Ram]

Got my links and spacers finished up tonight. I did it over the course of two days. Wasn't the easiest lift I've ever done, but certainly wasn't the hardest. I replaced my UCAs with the Mopar 2" lift kit UCAs so, naturally, getting the factory ball joint to separate from the knuckle was a b*tch. I hit the thing enough times and hard enough I was afraid I was going to smash that aluminum knuckle. I also had a hard time getting the Dayster stud extenders threaded all the way down flush to the top of the strut, even though I did trim about a half inch or more off the factory strut studs. As someone mentioned previously, a set of ratcheting wrenches is a MUST. Made life way easier. I also used the video floating around of the guy doing this on his Rebel, though almost none of my bolt/nut sizes matched his and the torque specs he quoted seemed way high compared to the ease my bolts/nuts came off...

I ended up setting my front links to 60mm center to center. I added 5mm to the factory link length on the rear (per Revel, lengthening the rear links 5mm should add 3/4" to 1" lift). After the initial heart attack I had from all my apps being gone including Sirius, my surround camera, my suspension settings, etc. I finally got around to measuring. The front, on the stock 20s and stock rubber, is 38" ground to center fender arch. The rear is 40". I am going to have to tweak it tomorrow. All ride height settings work with no errors.

I did end up taking a comparison picture of the factory UCA and the Mopar lift kit UCA. They are IDENTICAL in every facet with the exception of the max ball joint angle. The Mopar UCA ball joint can extend to a tighter angle than the factory UCA. See the picture attached.

Couple final questions for anyone with knowledge: do I need to disconnect the battery each time I want to adjust the links or will tire jack mode keep the truck from making any air adjustments with the truck off and the links removed? Also, if I want to dial up the links to where the truck is basically maxed out in Normal mode and throws errors in OR1 and OR2 mode, is this fine? If I'm sitting on a slope, for example, will the truck just not attempt to level itself beyond Normal mode or will it cause issues for the air suspension in its attempt to level itself?

Got the part numbers handy for those UCAs?

 

[ErikWayne]

Got the part numbers handy for those UCAs?

Upper control arms from factory 2” lift kit:

68323530AA

68323531AA

I put on the daystar spacers and revel links last weekend, only took about an hour and a half. I plan on getting the UCA’s from the factory lift. Also, got some 295/55/r22 Ridge Grapplers put on. I really like the look now.

 

[Jordan3206]

Nobody has read my posts clearly.... The MOPAR or OEM upper control arms will hit the air strut before the ball joint binds. If your buying The Mopar as an upgrade your wasting your money. This is super easy to test by jackings up the truck. You need a high clearance control arm. like the ReadyLift I modified.

Air Ride with DAYSTAR and REVEL Links!

The factory arms on the air ride will impact the air strut before the ball joint will bind. Thats why im looking at an aftermarket alternative. The Mopar UCA will not solve this. Thanks! Suspension is definitely not my most knowledgeable area for vehicles. All the help is always appreciated...

5thgenrams.com

 

[Chippy]

Nobody has read my posts clearly.... The MOPAR or OEM upper control arms will hit the air strut before the ball joint binds. If your buying The Mopar as an upgrade your wasting your money. This is super easy to test by jackings up the truck. You need a high clearance control arm. like the ReadyLift I modified.

Air Ride with DAYSTAR and REVEL Links!

The factory arms on the air ride will impact the air strut before the ball joint will bind. Thats why im looking at an aftermarket alternative. The Mopar UCA will not solve this. Thanks! Suspension is definitely not my most knowledgeable area for vehicles. All the help is always appreciated...

5thgenrams.com

You are correct with the Mopar UCA’s I installed they did touch the outer can however it wasn’t enough to even make a dent. So all good

 

[db252]

Weird, I couldn’t get mine to touch at all in off-road 2 and full suspension droop. Very close but still an air gap. I will recheck when I get the chance.

 

[CaptainCJ35]

Could the contact with the air strut be related to the link settings, amount of desired lift, and mode? So different for everybody?

​

 

[GratefulDenglish]

So I have read through most of the responses and I guess I need further explanation. I have a 2019 1500 Longhorn with air ride suspension. I have the Daystar spacers and front Revel links on the way. I would like to switch out the UCAs with the proper units that offer the UBJ with additional articulation to ensure geometry/stresses are optimized. I also want to ensure I do not have an issues with the UCA contacting air ride sensor/strut housing at full drop. What is the best UCA to serve this purpose? I do not mind tapping and adding the ball on the side of the UCA from a none air ride UCA if that is the best way to get the job done. I just want to make sure the clearances are accounted for in the replacement. Sounds like the Mopar Arms are little more than what I have with a better UBJ, but still have issues with clearance to the sensor. Was thinking BDS was a solid option, but would like everyone’s thoughts.

 

[d15nonvtec]

So I have read through most of the responses and I guess I need further explanation. I have a 2019 1500 Longhorn with air ride suspension. I have the Daystar spacers and front Revel links on the way. I would like to switch out the UCAs with the proper units that offer the UBJ with additional articulation to ensure geometry/stresses are optimized. I also want to ensure I do not have an issues with the UCA contacting air ride sensor/strut housing at full drop. What is the best UCA to serve this purpose? I do not mind tapping and adding the ball on the side of the UCA from a none air ride UCA if that is the best way to get the job done. I just want to make sure the clearances are accounted for in the replacement. Sounds like the Mopar Arms are little more than what I have with a better UBJ, but still have issues with clearance to the sensor. Was thinking BDS was a solid option, but would like everyone’s thoughts.

I used KSP upper control arms. I had an M6 nut welded on (KSP just gives you a hole) to attach a SS 8mm ball stud for my air links. I had them powercoated blue to match my sway bar and the logos match my paint.

 

[VaBeachRam]

Get the full set of links, front and back. Then you can raise the rear a smidge if needed. Not sure why revel would say that. The ride height of the truck is solely controlled by the links. Spacers just affect the stiffness of the Springs to get to said height.

What would be the advantage of raising the rear a smidge to level it out vs not raising the front as much? I never understood that, as i thought you adjusted the front until it was level to the rear