Air Ride with DAYSTAR and REVEL Links!

[D.Sull]

Will the Mopar UCAs work with air ride?

I've seen a few different places on the forum where people recommend the Mopar UCAs from the 2" lift kit in order to keep the geometry in good shape. I'll let you know. I have part numbers if needed. They come from the 2" lift kit and you can buy them individually, so I assume they are dropped in some manner to keep the UCAs from contacting anything when the truck is at full OR2 mode.

 

[Checkmate251]

I've seen a few different places on the forum where people recommend the Mopar UCAs from the 2" lift kit in order to keep the geometry in good shape. I'll let you know. I have part numbers if needed. They come from the 2" lift kit and you can buy them individually, so I assume they are dropped in some manner to keep the UCAs from contacting anything when the truck is at full OR2 mode.

I have seen that people using those ones from Mopar lift!
I can’t find it but somewhere someone thought that the ones from the Mopar kit are the same ones that come on the off-road package trucks as they are 1 inch higher from the factory but no one can confirm that that’s what I’m trying to figure out because my truck will have the off-road package maybe it already has those ones on it?

 

[D.Sull]

I have seen that people using those ones from Mopar lift!
I can’t find it but somewhere someone thought that the ones from the Mopar kit are the same ones that come on the off-road package trucks as they are 1 inch higher from the factory but no one can confirm that that’s what I’m trying to figure out because my truck will have the off-road package maybe it already has those ones on it?

I'll let you know once I get mine in. I'll snap some comparison pictures. Don't let me forget.

 

[19TXLimited]

I've seen a few different places on the forum where people recommend the Mopar UCAs from the 2" lift kit in order to keep the geometry in good shape. I'll let you know. I have part numbers if needed. They come from the 2" lift kit and you can buy them individually, so I assume they are dropped in some manner to keep the UCAs from contacting anything when the truck is at full OR2 mode.

Do the offroad edition vehicles even have OR2? I thought they were just programmed to ride in what would be OR1 for a normal air truck and then could go up only 1" from there.

 

[D.Sull]

Do the offroad edition vehicles even have OR2? I thought they were just programmed to ride in what would be OR1 for a normal air truck and then could go up only 1" from there.

I think you are correct. I believe the Rebel rides normally in what would be the equivalent of the OR1 mode in the Limiteds.

 

[Chache1313]

2020 Laramie Limited Eco-Diesel W/ORP. Daystar Spacers, Revel Links (front only) & 285/65/R20 BFG KO2. No rubbing, clunking, error codes, etc.

 

[19TXLimited]

2020 Laramie Limited Eco-Diesel W/ORP. Daystar Spacers, Revel Links (front only) & 285/65/R20 BFG KO2. No rubbing, clunking, error codes, etc.

What are your measurements from center of wheel hub to fender?

To confirm, your truck started an inch higher in the front and rear than a normal truck, correct?

Can you get pictures of how close the control arm is to the air strut in normal, OR1 and OR2 (if you have OR2...I think the ORP trucks don't have OR2).

Thanks, I think this is the closest I'll get to knowing whether I can take mine up 1/2-3/4-1" in the rear and still level the front without complications.

 

[NJC1684]

What are your measurements from center of wheel hub to fender?

To confirm, your truck started an inch higher in the front and rear than a normal truck, correct?

Can you get pictures of how close the control arm is to the air strut in normal, OR1 and OR2 (if you have OR2...I think the ORP trucks don't have OR2).

Thanks, I think this is the closest I'll get to knowing whether I can take mine up 1/2-3/4-1" in the rear and still level the front without complications.

I ran mine lifted 1" in the rear for about a week w/o issue. Didn't look at any of the front geometry though.

 

[19TXLimited]

I ran mine lifted 1" in the rear for about a week w/o issue. Didn't look at any of the front geometry though.

So my idea would be to do a 2.5/0.5 F/R level using the links. Would really like to do a bit more, but I know the front angles won't look good going much higher...or at least that's my guess. I did have a 3/1 level on my Tundra in the past and everything looked ok, but the control arm made contact at full extension. I don't want that to happen here. Seems the only way around this is to add the upper control arms from ReadyLIFT and custom add the ball for links. Not sure the extra 0.5" is worth the $500 for those control arms though.

 

[Chache1313]

What are your measurements from center of wheel hub to fender?

To confirm, your truck started an inch higher in the front and rear than a normal truck, correct?

Can you get pictures of how close the control arm is to the air strut in normal, OR1 and OR2 (if you have OR2...I think the ORP trucks don't have OR2).

Thanks, I think this is the closest I'll get to knowing whether I can take mine up 1/2-3/4-1" in the rear and still level the front without complications.

Front wheel hub to fender ~24.75” in OR1 which is OR2 in non ORP. ORP Trucks come an inch higher so only one OR setting.

picture is in normal setting.

 

[19TXLimited]

Front wheel hub to fender ~24.75” in OR1 which is OR2 in non ORP. ORP Trucks come an inch higher so only one OR setting.

picture is in normal setting.

Are ORP trucks 1" higher front and rear, or only front?

My truck is currently at about 23.75" front in normal mode which would say 24.75 in OR1 and higher in OR2.

Are you completely level, or did you leave a lot of rake?

 

[Chache1313]

What are your measurements from center of wheel hub to fender?

To confirm, your truck started an inch higher in the front and rear than a normal truck, correct?

Can you get pictures of how close the control arm is to the air strut in normal, OR1 and OR2 (if you have OR2...I think the ORP trucks don't have OR2).

Thanks, I think this is the closest I'll get to knowing whether I can take mine up 1/2-3/4-1" in the rear and still level the front without complications.

Front wheel hub to fender ~24.75” in OR1 which is OR2 in non ORP. ORP Trucks come an inch higher so only one OR setting.

Are ORP trucks 1" higher front and rear, or only front?

My truck is currently at about 23.75" front in normal mode which would say 24.75 in OR1 and higher in OR2.

Are you completely level, or did you leave a lot of rake?

I think it’s 1” all the way around and yes my truck still has about 1” of rake. You can always mess with the adjustments of the links but I wouldn’t do links without daystar spacers so you retain ride quality

 

[19TXLimited]

Front wheel hub to fender ~24.75” in OR1 which is OR2 in non ORP. ORP Trucks come an inch higher so only one OR setting.

I think it’s 1” all the way around and yes my truck still has about 1” of rake. You can always mess with the adjustments of the links but I wouldn’t do links without daystar spacers so you retain ride quality

Yea, I already have links and 285/55R22 Nitto Grapplers installed. Daystars and control arms hopefully beginning of May. Ride isn't too bad, but I'm sure will be better once everything is installed.

 

[NJC1684]

Yea, I already have links and 285/55R22 Nitto Grapplers installed. Daystars and control arms hopefully beginning of May. Ride isn't too bad, but I'm sure will be better once everything is installed.

I only got about 2" of lift with mine but it retains the factory ride and all settings still work. It's ~1/4" lower than the rear stock.

 

[Chache1313]

Yea, I already have links and 285/55R22 Nitto Grapplers installed. Daystars and control arms hopefully beginning of May. Ride isn't too bad, but I'm sure will be better once everything is installed.

Sounds good brother.... look forward to seeing the pics. LMK if you have any more questions or need additional pics of anything. You willl be happy with the outcome!!

 

[D.Sull]

Got my links and spacers finished up tonight. I did it over the course of two days. Wasn't the easiest lift I've ever done, but certainly wasn't the hardest. I replaced my UCAs with the Mopar 2" lift kit UCAs so, naturally, getting the factory ball joint to separate from the knuckle was a b*tch. I hit the thing enough times and hard enough I was afraid I was going to smash that aluminum knuckle. I also had a hard time getting the Dayster stud extenders threaded all the way down flush to the top of the strut, even though I did trim about a half inch or more off the factory strut studs. As someone mentioned previously, a set of ratcheting wrenches is a MUST. Made life way easier. I also used the video floating around of the guy doing this on his Rebel, though almost none of my bolt/nut sizes matched his and the torque specs he quoted seemed way high compared to the ease my bolts/nuts came off...

I ended up setting my front links to 60mm center to center. I added 5mm to the factory link length on the rear (per Revel, lengthening the rear links 5mm should add 3/4" to 1" lift). After the initial heart attack I had from all my apps being gone including Sirius, my surround camera, my suspension settings, etc. I finally got around to measuring. The front, on the stock 20s and stock rubber, is 38" ground to center fender arch. The rear is 40". I am going to have to tweak it tomorrow. All ride height settings work with no errors.

I did end up taking a comparison picture of the factory UCA and the Mopar lift kit UCA. They are IDENTICAL in every facet with the exception of the max ball joint angle. The Mopar UCA ball joint can extend to a tighter angle than the factory UCA. See the picture attached.

Couple final questions for anyone with knowledge: do I need to disconnect the battery each time I want to adjust the links or will tire jack mode keep the truck from making any air adjustments with the truck off and the links removed? Also, if I want to dial up the links to where the truck is basically maxed out in Normal mode and throws errors in OR1 and OR2 mode, is this fine? If I'm sitting on a slope, for example, will the truck just not attempt to level itself beyond Normal mode or will it cause issues for the air suspension in its attempt to level itself?

 

[familyman]

Got my links and spacers finished up tonight. I did it over the course of two days. Wasn't the easiest lift I've ever done, but certainly wasn't the hardest. I replaced my UCAs with the Mopar 2" lift kit UCAs so, naturally, getting the factory ball joint to separate from the knuckle was a b*tch. I hit the thing enough times and hard enough I was afraid I was going to smash that aluminum knuckle. I also had a hard time getting the Dayster stud extenders threaded all the way down flush to the top of the strut, even though I did trim about a half inch or more off the factory strut studs. As someone mentioned previously, a set of ratcheting wrenches is a MUST. Made life way easier. I also used the video floating around of the guy doing this on his Rebel, though almost none of my bolt/nut sizes matched his and the torque specs he quoted seemed way high compared to the ease my bolts/nuts came off...

I ended up setting my front links to 60mm center to center. I added 5mm to the factory link length on the rear (per Revel, lengthening the rear links 5mm should add 3/4" to 1" lift). After the initial heart attack I had from all my apps being going including Sirius, my surround camera, my suspension settings, etc. I finally got around to measuring. The front, on the stock 20s and stock rubber, is 38" ground to center fender arch. The rear is 40". I am going to have to tweak it tomorrow. All ride height settings work with no errors.

I did end up taking a comparison picture of the factory UCA and the Mopar lift kit UCA. They are IDENTICAL in every facet with the exception of the max ball joint angle. The Mopar UCA ball joint can extend to a tighter angle than the factory UCA. See the picture attached.

Couple final questions for anyone with knowledge: do I need to disconnect the battery each time I want to adjust the links or will tire jack mode keep the truck from making any air adjustments with the truck off and the links removed? Also, if I want to dial up the links to where the truck is basically maxed out in Normal mode and throws errors in OR1 and OR2 mode, is this fine? If I'm sitting on a slope, for example, will the truck just not attempt to level itself beyond Normal mode or will it cause issues for the air suspension in its attempt to level itself?

Did it today as well. UCA ball joints are the worst I’ve ever encountered. None of my forks did crap.... neighbors likely thought I was forging a damn sword with all the metal strikes from my 3lber. Ended up only getting one out, said forget this and kept the stock one on the other side.

Might take it to a place and let them have a go at it.

Anybody have any tips for those in the future? Atrocious. It’s a shame there are still zero turnkey UCA options for air rides, it really does sit right on the air ride sensor and touch the shock tower.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[19TXLimited]

Got my links and spacers finished up tonight. I did it over the course of two days. Wasn't the easiest lift I've ever done, but certainly wasn't the hardest. I replaced my UCAs with the Mopar 2" lift kit UCAs so, naturally, getting the factory ball joint to separate from the knuckle was a b*tch. I hit the thing enough times and hard enough I was afraid I was going to smash that aluminum knuckle. I also had a hard time getting the Dayster stud extenders threaded all the way down flush to the top of the strut, even though I did trim about a half inch or more off the factory strut studs. As someone mentioned previously, a set of ratcheting wrenches is a MUST. Made life way easier. I also used the video floating around of the guy doing this on his Rebel, though almost none of my bolt/nut sizes matched his and the torque specs he quoted seemed way high compared to the ease my bolts/nuts came off...

I ended up setting my front links to 60mm center to center. I added 5mm to the factory link length on the rear (per Revel, lengthening the rear links 5mm should add 3/4" to 1" lift). After the initial heart attack I had from all my apps being going including Sirius, my surround camera, my suspension settings, etc. I finally got around to measuring. The front, on the stock 20s and stock rubber, is 38" ground to center fender arch. The rear is 40". I am going to have to tweak it tomorrow. All ride height settings work with no errors.

I did end up taking a comparison picture of the factory UCA and the Mopar lift kit UCA. They are IDENTICAL in every facet with the exception of the max ball joint angle. The Mopar UCA ball joint can extend to a tighter angle than the factory UCA. See the picture attached.

Couple final questions for anyone with knowledge: do I need to disconnect the battery each time I want to adjust the links or will tire jack mode keep the truck from making any air adjustments with the truck off and the links removed? Also, if I want to dial up the links to where the truck is basically maxed out in Normal mode and throws errors in OR1 and OR2 mode, is this fine? If I'm sitting on a slope, for example, will the truck just not attempt to level itself beyond Normal mode or will it cause issues for the air suspension in its attempt to level itself?

tire jack mode is all you need to adjust links. Adjusted mine a few times this way.

 

[D.Sull]

Did it today as well. UCA ball joints are the worst I’ve ever encountered. None of my forks did crap.... neighbors likely thought I was forging a damn sword with all the metal strikes from my 3lber. Ended up only getting one out, said forget this and kept the stock one on the other side.

Might take it to a place and let them have a go at it.

Anybody have any tips for those in the future? Atrocious. It’s a shame there are still zero turnkey UCA options for air rides, it really does sit right on the air ride sensor and touch the shock tower.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might could find a ball joint separator (not the tuning fork style) that will fit the Ram. The one I bought from Advance was too small but the one from Harbor Freight looks larger. This seems like a MUCH safer way to do it. I seriously hit mine hard enough with a claw hammer enough times that I thought I was going to break something before it just popped loose. Probably not the safest way to do it but oh well.

 

[Checkmate251]

Got my links and spacers finished up tonight. I did it over the course of two days. Wasn't the easiest lift I've ever done, but certainly wasn't the hardest. I replaced my UCAs with the Mopar 2" lift kit UCAs so, naturally, getting the factory ball joint to separate from the knuckle was a b*tch. I hit the thing enough times and hard enough I was afraid I was going to smash that aluminum knuckle. I also had a hard time getting the Dayster stud extenders threaded all the way down flush to the top of the strut, even though I did trim about a half inch or more off the factory strut studs. As someone mentioned previously, a set of ratcheting wrenches is a MUST. Made life way easier. I also used the video floating around of the guy doing this on his Rebel, though almost none of my bolt/nut sizes matched his and the torque specs he quoted seemed way high compared to the ease my bolts/nuts came off...

I ended up setting my front links to 60mm center to center. I added 5mm to the factory link length on the rear (per Revel, lengthening the rear links 5mm should add 3/4" to 1" lift). After the initial heart attack I had from all my apps being going including Sirius, my surround camera, my suspension settings, etc. I finally got around to measuring. The front, on the stock 20s and stock rubber, is 38" ground to center fender arch. The rear is 40". I am going to have to tweak it tomorrow. All ride height settings work with no errors.

I did end up taking a comparison picture of the factory UCA and the Mopar lift kit UCA. They are IDENTICAL in every facet with the exception of the max ball joint angle. The Mopar UCA ball joint can extend to a tighter angle than the factory UCA. See the picture attached.

Couple final questions for anyone with knowledge: do I need to disconnect the battery each time I want to adjust the links or will tire jack mode keep the truck from making any air adjustments with the truck off and the links removed? Also, if I want to dial up the links to where the truck is basically maxed out in Normal mode and throws errors in OR1 and OR2 mode, is this fine? If I'm sitting on a slope, for example, will the truck just not attempt to level itself beyond Normal mode or will it cause issues for the air suspension in its attempt to level itself?

Thanks for the info on the lift, way above my level of mechanics, I’m going to a shop to do mine! I just like to have all the info to relay to them as they don’t do many air suspension, every tip I can get them makes it easier for them!
Is your truck a Rebel or a truck with the ORP? I can’t seem to find a definite answer on if the UCA’s on a ORP truck are the same as the Mopar lift ones you installed?