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Air conditioning Hack

The quality of the shutoff valve you use for this mod is crucial to say the least and a point that can fail and leave you stranded on the side of the road, better get the best you can find.

I might have a solution to try today, will post preliminar results in a few hours.

Thanks all for you very valuable info.

JC
 

Can't find the second item, the hose section, at Adv Auto, including online. Can you assist me in finding a suitable replacement at Adv Auto online? I can't seem to find good 5/8 tubing. Really want to give this a shot! Thanks for the help in advance and for the effort in sharing this trick with us, KCRay.
 
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Can't find the second item, the hose section, at Adv Auto, including online. Can you assist me in finding a suitable replacement at Adv Auto online? I can't seem to find good 5/8 tubing. Really want to give this a shot! Thanks for the help in advance and for the effort in sharing this trick with us, KCRay.
Maybe just hit up a local parts store for some 5/8 heater hose, they had to sell me a foot. I used about 4 in of it
 
I’m trying out this ground clamp. Turned the bottom piece upside down and tightened it fairly tight but I think it might still let some flow thru. Gonna take a ride to my favorite pub in a bit for few cold ones and I’ll see if its lowered the temp out the vent. Lowest the driver’s side vent will blow is about 52 degrees. If it’ll get down to 45 degrees, I’ll likely be satisfied.
 

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Does this line also feed water to the transmission for quicker warm-up and also remove excess heat from the transmission? In other words, is the flow exclusive to the heater core?
 
I’m trying out this ground clamp. Turned the bottom piece upside down and tightened it fairly tight but I think it might still let some flow thru. Gonna take a ride to my favorite pub in a bit for few cold ones and I’ll see if its lowered the temp out the vent. Lowest the driver’s side vent will blow is about 52 degrees. If it’ll get down to 45 degrees, I’ll likely be satisfied.
That looks scary! ESP the barbs/sharp areas on the elec clamp. I would be Leary of puncturing the hose,esp if left on for long periods etc!!
If I go this route,I’ll use a globe valve. Was is vehicles years ago,where peeps would move manual levers to control flow and doors lol.
 
That looks scary! ESP the barbs/sharp areas on the elec clamp. I would be Leary of puncturing the hose,esp if left on for long periods etc!!
If I go this route,I’ll use a globe valve. Was is vehicles years ago,where peeps would move manual levers to control flow and doors lol.
Yeah. If this lowers my vent temps, I’ll likely go with what KcRay devised. A valve and a short piece of heater hose so I don’t have to cut the OEM hose.
 
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We're definitely testing all kinds of clamps here! ;-)

I’m trying out this ground clamp. Turned the bottom piece upside down and tightened it fairly tight but I think it might still let some flow thru. Gonna take a ride to my favorite pub in a bit for few cold ones and I’ll see if its lowered the temp out the vent. Lowest the driver’s side vent will blow is about 52 degrees. If it’ll get down to 45 degrees, I’ll likely be satisfied.
 
Looks like that clamp might dig into the hose a bit (with its barbed design). I wrapped a sock around the hose before I put my home made clamp on, sorta cushions it a little, yet restricting flow.

I’m trying out this ground clamp. Turned the bottom piece upside down and tightened it fairly tight but I think it might still let some flow thru. Gonna take a ride to my favorite pub in a bit for few cold ones and I’ll see if its lowered the temp out the vent. Lowest the driver’s side vent will blow is about 52 degrees. If it’ll get down to 45 degrees, I’ll likely be satisfied.
 
KCRAY, I have been following your thread since the beginning. A good one, with a sensible solution to a problem. I haven't been in any extreme heat just yet, mid 80's only. Even at that the AC is a little weak, especially compared to my other cars and trucks present and past. I have a valve on the way and will cut it into the heater core line as you have. Us old time truck driver's used to shut off the heater cores all the time before AC was required in the cabs.

What I noticed today when I was under the hood struck me as odd. The AC compressor is on the left side of the truck instead of the right side. The suction line, and return is routed all the way across the front of the motor and down the right side above the wheel well and then into the firewall. In addition most of the length of suction line is uninsulated except where it goes around the front corner and then in thru the firewall. Seems to me, we are losing a lot of the cold from the freon, on the way to the AC core in the cab. If you look at the photo you will see the condensation on the top line, which is the suction line.

What I'm wondering is what material can we use to wrap this line to shield it from the engine heat, that will take the heat and environment of the engine bay when it gets extreme. Is there a reason NOT to wrap it.

If one of the Ram Cares reps sees this. Please forward it on to the powers that be. I would like to understand why it was designed like it is. What's the reasoning?

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KCRAY, I have been following your thread since the beginning. A good one, with a sensible solution to a problem. I haven't been in any extreme heat just yet, mid 80's only. Even at that the AC is a little weak, especially compared to my other cars and trucks present and past. I have a valve on the way and will cut it into the heater core line as you have. Us old time truck driver's used to shut off the heater cores all the time before AC was required in the cabs.

What I noticed today when I was under the hood struck me as odd. The AC compressor is on the left side of the truck instead of the right side. The suction line, and return is routed all the way across the front of the motor and down the right side above the wheel well and then into the firewall. In addition most of the length of suction line is uninsulated except where it goes around the front corner and then in thru the firewall. Seems to me, we are losing a lot of the cold from the freon, on the way to the AC core in the cab. If you look at the photo you will see the condensation on the top line, which is the suction line.

What I'm wondering is what material can we use to wrap this line to shield it from the engine heat, that will take the heat and environment of the engine bay when it gets extreme. Is there a reason NOT to wrap it.

If one of the Ram Cares reps sees this. Please forward it on to the powers that be. I would like to understand why it was designed like it is. What's the reasoning?

View attachment 26492
That's a good question. Will look at wife's Subaru tomorrow and see what it looks like for comparison.
 
Ford has the same issues with the F150 (well, it was the previous generation refrigerant before R1234yf-----was it R134?) Debating whether or not to wrap the a/c lines.
Some did it, Some didn't. its about a 50/50.
I can't remember whether it was wrapping the low side or the high side.....Obviously, the one that gets cold and sweats. As I recall, there was no significant difference in temps wrapping them.

What I'm wondering is what material can we use to wrap this line to shield it from the engine heat, that will take the heat and environment of the engine bay when it gets extreme. Is there a reason NOT to wrap it.



View attachment 26492
 
The big temp drop should be through the phase change as the compressed liquid freon is converted to a gas at the expansion valve before the evaporator coil. Once the expanded gas has left the evaporator and is headed back to the compressor (as in the photo above), it wouldn't need any insulation. You won't receive any benefit.
 
That was the explanation i was looking for that the Ford guys were saying (just could not find the thread over there).

The consensus was no real benefit.

The big temp drop should be through the phase change as the compressed liquid freon is converted to a gas at the expansion valve before the evaporator coil. Once the expanded gas has left the evaporator and is headed back to the compressor (as in the photo above), it wouldn't need any insulation. You won't receive any benefit.
 
What I'm wondering is what material can we use to wrap this line to shield it from the engine heat, that will take the heat and environment of the engine bay when it gets extreme. Is there a reason NOT to wrap it.

If one of the Ram Cares reps sees this. Please forward it on to the powers that be. I would like to understand why it was designed like it is. What's the reasoning?

View attachment 26492
Wrap the line that sweats not the other one. The type of insulation you want to use is Armaflex/Armacell Rubber (not Polyethylene) Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation for AC. lines. Must go all the way around the AC. line and it is self sealing with peel and stick tape. You can purchase it at Home Depot or Lowes or any plumbing/heating supply. Comes in 6 foot lengths and costs < $7.00
Do not get or use the closed cell cheap
Polyethylene foam insulation or fiberglass insulation.
 
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