KcRay
Well-Known Member
We're all on the same team here, and we all want very much to enjoy our expensive trucks. Even if we have to do a little tweak here and there. Welcome aboard!
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Air conditioning Hack
- Thread starter KcRay
- Start date
U
User_3336
Guest
Following this thread because my a/c seems to really suck! I just used some clamps after putting sock around the hose to prevent damage during my experiment. What do you know. very nice a/c temps. Still a small flow thru the line (the heater still worked).
Not sure I want to keep the clamps on..maybe test different ones. Don't want any damage to the hose from pinching it (not totally).
Not sure I want to keep the clamps on..maybe test different ones. Don't want any damage to the hose from pinching it (not totally).
James Cole
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Guys just want to double check, are we sure that the flow is not required for something else in the engine besides the heater core?
Like putting too much stress on overall system pressure ?
Like putting too much stress on overall system pressure ?
KcRay
Well-Known Member
Negative, you have what is called "bypass hose"coming out of the thermostat housing that goes to the engine block. If you did not have that, you would need to put a U hose on your water pump inlet and outlet to connect the two.
KcRay
Well-Known Member
this is what's behind your dash that we are stopping from getting heat. Sealed and isolated system.
James Cole
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So the bypass basically is whats letting us close the valve completely without problems.
Jhill
Ram Guru
I believe KcRay said 5/8" and valve needs to be same. Pex valves measure different....3/4" works perfect I am told. Don't forget clamps
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Some Amazon links if it's already too hot to drive the truck somewhere:
clamps: https://smile.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-Micro-Miniature-Stainless/dp/B002086E3W/
hose: https://smile.amazon.com/Gates-28491-Heater-Hose-Polybagged/dp/B000C2WEIC/
valve: https://smile.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-84706-Shut-Valve/dp/B000CNJ66E/
different valve: removed, was max 200
clamps: https://smile.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-Micro-Miniature-Stainless/dp/B002086E3W/
hose: https://smile.amazon.com/Gates-28491-Heater-Hose-Polybagged/dp/B000C2WEIC/
valve: https://smile.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-84706-Shut-Valve/dp/B000CNJ66E/
different valve: removed, was max 200
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Ickabod
Well-Known Member
This one is only rated for 200* F Max.
Whoops. That's what I get for going by their recommendations.
Went to Harbor Freight and bought their fluid line clamp set with the ubiquitous 20% off coupon and installed it in literally 30 seconds. Six bucks. Even with residual 200F coolant in the heater core it brought the right vent temp down. I saw as low as 40F during a 20 minute drive. Low 90s ambient here today. Cheap fix. 30 seconds to reverse with no tools.
FWIW, Ram is never going to fix this problem, so why wait. How could they really fix it? What are they going to do... redesign the HVAC system on a million trucks in service?
What puzzles me is that this blocking-the-heater-core solution is not uncommon (looking at all the reviews on these valves and clamps being used just like this: to cut-off flow to heater cores for lots of vehicles). You'd think there'd be a universal design approach after 100 years of liquid cooled thermal-engined vehicles to get the heat or even the heater core out of the cabin when cabin heating is not needed. And who among us a half century old or older hasn't faced the issue of heater core problems or inaccessible heater cores leaking in history. Sorry, for the mini rant. At least the AC is cool now! Not quite in the upper 30s as I've noted in my other cars, but close.
FWIW, Ram is never going to fix this problem, so why wait. How could they really fix it? What are they going to do... redesign the HVAC system on a million trucks in service?
What puzzles me is that this blocking-the-heater-core solution is not uncommon (looking at all the reviews on these valves and clamps being used just like this: to cut-off flow to heater cores for lots of vehicles). You'd think there'd be a universal design approach after 100 years of liquid cooled thermal-engined vehicles to get the heat or even the heater core out of the cabin when cabin heating is not needed. And who among us a half century old or older hasn't faced the issue of heater core problems or inaccessible heater cores leaking in history. Sorry, for the mini rant. At least the AC is cool now! Not quite in the upper 30s as I've noted in my other cars, but close.
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Jhill
Ram Guru
In reading reviews about these "four season" and similar looking coolant shutoff valves, they apparently have a history of leaking from the adjuster screw....some are from china, others better made from USA. I am considering putting in a real brass/stainless ball valve from Grainger or other quality product supplier. Their specs have wide temp/pressure range and ball valves rarely leak. May have to buy threaded female to female threaded valve and add 5/8" male barbed fittings to get it to fit. Maybe 1/3 more money than the regular one that members are getting but I will feel at ease with no leaks. .....A little OCD and I hate murphy's law 
****update**** I found this valve with 3/4" Pex barbed ports that others in reviews have used for heater core control. It is an Everflow 615P034-NL and is available with free shipping on Amazon! It has a compact handle. I just ordered a pair so will see if it seems like a good alternative.Another member verified that 3/4 Pex fits 5/8" heater hose. Check out pics.......If you decide to do this, it is at your own risk. Don't cut the factory heater hoses so you can remove it later without a trace when Ram has proper fix. (I previously listed a 1/2" Pex valve but it is too small for good hose seal and 3/4" is perfect in Pex world)
****update**** I found this valve with 3/4" Pex barbed ports that others in reviews have used for heater core control. It is an Everflow 615P034-NL and is available with free shipping on Amazon! It has a compact handle. I just ordered a pair so will see if it seems like a good alternative.Another member verified that 3/4 Pex fits 5/8" heater hose. Check out pics.......If you decide to do this, it is at your own risk. Don't cut the factory heater hoses so you can remove it later without a trace when Ram has proper fix. (I previously listed a 1/2" Pex valve but it is too small for good hose seal and 3/4" is perfect in Pex world)
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Jhill
Ram Guru
Instant gratification!!!! Why let the dealer "store" your truck for days and not improve cooling when you can solve it in minutes? Nice job!
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James Cole
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1. 40-45F
2. Maybe. I don't really know. Its not smashed down that tight. I really am not that concerned as I don't really think it matters. As long as its cool
U
User_3336
Guest
Anyone thing there will be any short/long term damage to the hose by "clamping"/crimping it down? I still got my clamped down with a crescent wrench with a sock around the hose. I can tell the temps are better.
But in the end, I don't want to damage my hose on a new truck!
Impressions/suggestions?
But in the end, I don't want to damage my hose on a new truck!
Impressions/suggestions?
U
User_3336
Guest
Do you have a link from the website. Might get me one.
I think I found it. looks similar.
www.harborfreight.com
I think I found it. looks similar.
Fluid Line Clamp Set, 4 Piece
Amazing deals on this 4Pc Fluid Line Clamp Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
James Cole
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In reading reviews about these "four season" and similar looking coolant shutoff valves, they apparently have a history of leaking from the adjuster screw....some are from china, others better made from USA. I am considering putting in a real brass/stainless ball valve from Grainger or other quality product supplier. Their specs have wide temp/pressure range and ball valves rarely leak. May have to buy threaded female to female threaded valve and add 5/8 male barbed fittings to get it to fit. Maybe 1/3 more money than the regular one that members are getting but I will feel at ease with no leaks. .....A little OCD and I hate murphy's law
Good suggestion, but our hose is 5/8 will this one fit?
Jhill
Ram Guru
Its closest available size is 3/4" because it is meant for Pex hose and special clamp system and not 5/8" barb that would be a proper fit for 5/8 hose. Another member verified 3/4" Pex works perfect with 5/8" heater hose.
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