Yes, then they lay in the dealer's lap who has to tell us "it's a vehicle characteristic"You would think that FCA would just admit the design flaw/operational failure and fix it. If a guy can come up with $15 fix FCA and all their engineering brain power should be able to remedy this issue.
Maybe they should try politics where "alternate facts" are a way of life.......lolYes, then they lay in the dealer's lap who has to tell us "it's a vehicle characteristic"
Dont see any reason it wouldnt work and sure would be less hassle than putting in a valve.I wonder if this would work on the hose, for those of us that have leases and don't want to permanently hack the hose.
Fluid Line Clamp Set, 4 Piece
Amazing deals on this 4Pc Fluid Line Clamp Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
Nice man, hell yes.Dont see any reason it wouldnt work and sure would be less hassle than putting in a valve.
Nice man, hell yesI wonder if this would work on the hose, for those of us that have leases and don't want to permanently hack the hose.
Fluid Line Clamp Set, 4 Piece
Amazing deals on this 4Pc Fluid Line Clamp Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
I doubt that it would become stagnant since it would only need to be on during the summer months when its truly hot. The rest of the time you would remove it and let it operate as normalit shouldn't "freeze up" with no coolant flow. For 1) the thermostatic variable expansion valve, has a capillary tube in the evaporator coil to regulate the refrigerant flow and 2) the last heater box (well, it was a 4th gens, but I'm sure 5th gen is the same, as most vehicles today) there is a 2-wire thermistor, stuck into the evaporator coil, that will stop the compressor in the event of freeze up. There is no heat needed to prevent freeze up.
I'd be more concerned with non-moving stagnant coolant sitting, uncirculated in the heater core. The heater cores in these trucks are junk anyway, the crappy o-rings start leaking after around 100k.
If you look at what KcRay did, he disconnected the "out" hose at water pump , put it on port of added valve, added a short piece of new hose to other valve port, and attached it back to water pump port. Add clamps and done. You can reverse it in 5 minutes and nothing is cut off or changed. I would be afraid of hose damage by just pinching it.I wonder if this would work on the hose, for those of us that have leases and don't want to permanently hack the hose.
Fluid Line Clamp Set, 4 Piece
Amazing deals on this 4Pc Fluid Line Clamp Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
You are right!!!! That is the smartest way to go!! Thank you for pointing that out, I automatically assumed that he had cut the hose and added the valve in between!If you look at what KcRay did, he disconnected the "out" hose at water pump , put it on port of added valve, added a short piece of new hose to other valve port, and attached it back to water pump port. Add clamps and done. You can reverse it in 5 minutes and nothing is cut off or changed. I would be afraid of hose damage by just pinching it.
KcRay included multiple pictures that show how simple and easy to later remove this modification without leaving a trace. Go to page 1 at the very beginning of this thread "Air Conditioning Hack" and check out pics.You are right!!!! That is the smartest way to go!! Thank you for pointing that out, I automatically assumed that he had cut the hose and added the valve in between!
I drove today from work and the store was like an hour and a half and stayed solid at 41 degrees and never froze anything. The outside temp was 94! I remember my dad bypassing old heater cores that leaked and never have I heard of anything freezing as part of it. I am almost certain that the AC doesn't need any kind of heated water to keep it from freezing. Your home AC doesn't either. Think about it... Do we have hot water running to our home AC units outside? No. I am going to order a hose clamp made for clamping hoses and retire my vise grips lol. And that is what I'll put on there for the summer or until FCA wants to do something about it.I just talked to the master "reefer repair" guy where I work. The kind of reefer units the go in tractor trailers and can keep them at -20*
He said he saw no problems at all with closing off the heater core to get as cold as air as I could, could not see any risk of "freeze up". Also said "why not all the big rig trucks do too".
Granted he is not an auto AC technician, so it's another man's opinion. We stood around my Ram this morning with the hood open looking at what I had done, talking about the situation. Said he would "do it too".
Next new thread "How to treat Pneumonia Caused From Too Cold Ram AC temps" and member KcRay (our hero) will teach us how to knit a sweater to take along with you all summer and to put hand warmers in all pockets. ....lolI drove today from work and the store was like an hour and a half and stayed solid at 41 degrees and never froze anything. The outside temp was 94! I remember my dad bypassing old heater cores that leaked and never have I heard of anything freezing as part of it. I am almost certain that the AC doesn't need any kind of heated water to keep it from freezing. Your home AC doesn't either. Think about it... Do we have hot water running to our home AC units outside? No. I am going to order a hose clamp made for clamping hoses and retire my vise grips lol. And that is what I'll put on there for the summer or until FCA wants to do something about it.
People have been bypassing heater cores long before you were born. I think it will be alright.Although this idea on the surface seems very cool (get it?)... I'm following just to see the first "oh shi* " post.