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Air conditioning Hack

I have heard Tales of people with really great dealers, that have decided to reprogram the blend doors with some success, but have not seen temperature numbers. People have just said it feels better. If you have time and the inclination for a possible run at it, you may be able convince your dealer to tackle this. The hack is so easy, just have to get past the the fact that we have to do this. Then you can go down the road freezing every one out.
 
Dookie, great post man. I did the original valve and am not a fan of having to pop the hood and turn the valve for warmth in the heater. I think I'm gonna give your solenoid valve a try when it gets cold here in Oklahoma again.

I do have 2 questions:
1) it's rated to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Do you think that's enough in the dead of summer while towing or under heavy load?
2) I see it's a 1/2" threaded female connection on each side of the solenoid valve. What's the best way to connect the 5/8" heater hose? Do they make an adapter that can fit?

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 
Does anyone run their valve at half closed or 3/4 closed?

Doesn't some heat help with moisture management? Do you still get AC improvement with half or 3/4 closed?
 
Jawzz said:
Dookie, great post man. I did the original valve and am not a fan of having to pop the hood and turn the valve for warmth in the heater. I think I'm gonna give your solenoid valve a try when it gets cold here in Oklahoma again.

I do have 2 questions:
1) it's rated to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Do you think that's enough in the dead of summer while towing or under heavy load?
2) I see it's a 1/2" threaded female connection on each side of the solenoid valve. What's the best way to connect the 5/8" heater hose? Do they make an adapter that can fit?

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
On question #1, yes, I do believe it will live fine, but only 1 way to find out is to just do it.
On #2, look back at my post, I linked the barbed fittings I would use. Stainless steel 1/2"MNPT X 5/8" barb for the hose side, and the factory style hose clamps.
 
Thanks to KCRAY. Your receipt makes me think you live close to my daughter, son-in-law, and two of my three grandkids. They are in Parkville.

To those with clamps, have you noticed what your sprinkler hose does if you kink it? Heater hose is pretty tough stuff but why take the risk for $20 in parts to do it right? Simple to reverse in the fall - and the lack of heat will remind me.

While in theory, the closing of a 5/8 hose will increase pressure in the cooling system that is not necessarily a bad thing and have you noticed the size of the radiator hoses? The heater flow is obviously minor in this system. Our trucks have lots of complicated electronics but coolant flow is a pretty simple system and hasn't changed much in decades. Seasonally closing off flow just makes sense.
 
Dookie said:
On question #1, yes, I do believe it will live fine, but only 1 way to find out is to just do it.
On #2, look back at my post, I linked the barbed fittings I would use. Stainless steel 1/2"MNPT X 5/8" barb for the hose side, and the factory style hose clamps.
Click to expand...
Thank you!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 
I bought the parts and looked at my truck which has a V6. I can still do it but the same line from the water pump that goes to the heater core also goes to the transmission. There is a T (metal). You would NOT want to put the valve in the line near the water pump because it would the affect the transmission too (in a negative way - potentially damaging way). But after the T where the only flow is to the heater core - up pretty high on the passenger side - should be fine. It will actually increase flow to the transmission in the summer when it might need it.

I just went to install and discovered the lines are 3/4, not 5/8. I will have to find a 3/4 heater control valve. Available at o'reily. Costs $20, so more. I will post the number tomorrow after I know it works.
 
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That sounds crszy. I've not seen a V6 ram in person but I've never heard of water cooling or heating a transmission typically there is an oil / fluid line from transmission to a cooler behind the grill. I'd trace those lines carefully before cutting anything.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
 
TX_Phil said:
That sounds crszy. I've not seen a V6 ram in person but I've never heard of water cooling or heating a transmission typically there is an oil / fluid line from transmission to a cooler behind the grill. I'd trace those lines carefully before cutting anything.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The new gen V8s have that as well, it leaves the water pump from a different port. Seems the V6s just tapped into the heater hose.
 
KcRay said:
The new gen V8s have that as well, it leaves the water pump from a different port. Seems the V6s just tapped into the heater hose.
Click to expand...
Looking at my V8 the transmission heater actually is fed by two hoses tapping into the lower radiator hose.
 
I looked carefully at the fluid when I got the hose off. It scared me for a minute because it is red. But it is clearly not transmission fluid, it is not oily. I'm sure it is coolant. The hose is also not the type used for transmission fluid, it is heater hose, just bigger. I'm waiting on an email from O'Reily that they have the parts ready.

I did not realize the transmission has a heater. That would mean more flow during the summer will not really help it. But it should not hurt it any either.
 
2wd said:
Does anyone run their valve at half closed or 3/4 closed?

Doesn't some heat help with moisture management? Do you still get AC improvement with half or 3/4 closed?
Click to expand...
I tried different open positions, which all gave cooler air. When fully closed, its feels like its substantially cooler than even cracking it open a tiny bit. Figure ill leave it closed until fall, then crack it a bit.
 
Took about 15 minutes to install and check. I turned the valve closed and checked and it would not blow warm air when set to heat. Then I opened the valve all the way and had heating that felt fine. So I know I put the valve in the right line and it is working. No leaks although a little coolant got on the exhaust manifold so steam came off.

For the V6, you need these parts plus three hose clampsheater valve.jpg

I said this in the previous post but you do NOT want to put this at the water pump, at least on my truck. The line from the water pump also sends coolant to the transmission. There is a T in a metal line up high on the passengers side where the flow to the heater comes off this shared line. You put this valve on the heater line from this T. So the transmission gets a little more flow when the valve is closed. I left the valve open about turn and a half. It was cool here this morning. I may fully close it when it gets hot and stays hot outside.
 
KcRay said:
The new gen V8s have that as well, it leaves the water pump from a different port. Seems the V6s just tapped into the heater hose.
Click to expand...
I would not have guessed that. I wonder why they pimp water to the transmission? I assume to augment the fluid cooler.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
 
TX_Phil said:
I would not have guessed that. I wonder why they pimp water to the transmission? I assume to augment the fluid cooler.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
To warm the transmission, can believe it.:unsure:
 
JimD007 said:
Took about 15 minutes to install and check. I turned the valve closed and checked and it would not blow warm air when set to heat. Then I opened the valve all the way and had heating that felt fine. So I know I put the valve in the right line and it is working. No leaks although a little coolant got on the exhaust manifold so steam came off.

For the V6, you need these parts plus three hose clampsView attachment 56676

I said this in the previous post but you do NOT want to put this at the water pump, at least on my truck. The line from the water pump also sends coolant to the transmission. There is a T in a metal line up high on the passengers side where the flow to the heater comes off this shared line. You put this valve on the heater line from this T. So the transmission gets a little more flow when the valve is closed. I left the valve open about turn and a half. It was cool here this morning. I may fully close it when it gets hot and stays hot outside.
Click to expand...
For the most part that only exists to heat up the trans faster for better fuel economy. I suppose if you were towing heavy in extreme heat and the trans gets over 200 degrees, it would provide a slight cooling effect? Usually they're oil cooled, which I'm sure it has that too.
 
KcRay said:
Today I was able to get 36-38 degrees blowing out of both the drivers side and the passenger side ac vents. Previously I was getting 44 out of the passenger side and 50-52 out of the driver side. I installed a water shut off valve in the heater hose going from water pump to the heater core. It's the outbound side of the pump says "out"right on the hose. This stops any hot water from getting into the air conditioning system at all. You will have no heat for the heater you will have no way to control the air conditioning temperature it will be as cold as it can be. This was only a test for me if you decide to do this it will be at your own risk. In essence this proves there's definitely a blend door issue inside the dash letting hot water into the HVAC system when we are telling it not toView attachment 25616View attachment 25617View attachment 25618View attachment 25619View attachment 25616View attachment 25616View attachment 25617View attachment 25618View attachment 25619View attachment 25616View attachment 25619
Click to expand...
As I was attempting to do this. I could not get the hose off. Its extremely snug on the fitting.
Any advice for getting it off without damaging the hose?
 
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