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Air conditioning Hack

Matt, I had to cut it and trim off about 3/4 inch of the hose. I could still reinstall it and did when the first valve I got was wrong for my V6. I slit along the length of the hose about 3/4 inch and the hose came off. I have taken off heater hoses a few times and it has always gone this way if the hose has been installed for awhile. If you put in the valve it is actually better for the hose to be a little shorter.
 
Today I was able to get 36-38 degrees blowing out of both the drivers side and the passenger side ac vents. Previously I was getting 44 out of the passenger side and 50-52 out of the driver side. I installed a water shut off valve in the heater hose going from water pump to the heater core. It's the outbound side of the pump says "out"right on the hose. This stops any hot water from getting into the air conditioning system at all. You will have no heat for the heater you will have no way to control the air conditioning temperature it will be as cold as it can be. This was only a test for me if you decide to do this it will be at your own risk. In essence this proves there's definitely a blend door issue inside the dash letting hot water into the HVAC system when we are telling it not toView attachment 25616View attachment 25617View attachment 25618View attachment 25619View attachment 25616View attachment 25616View attachment 25617View attachment 25618View attachment 25619View attachment 25616View attachment 25619
Is there anything you need to do or adjust when winter comes and you need to run your heater?
 
Is there anything you need to do or adjust when winter comes and you need to run your heater?
Yes, just open the valve, only takes amount of time to open and close hood. This was the best thing I have done to date. It gets terribly hot here in Houston, combined with black truck and sun roof. My wife wouldn’t ride with me last summer, all is good now. Valve is closed until the fall.
 
Anyone added the valve to the Ecodiesel yet? Different hose setup. Only one comes up to the top front of the engine block. It's hardline to rubber back to hard line. I could also tap in towards the firewall.
 
So I bought the valve incase I needed it, but not sure yet if I will. We had a warm day, it was 86 and fairly humid, truck had been sitting in the sun for a few hours. When I got in, it was hot, but not middle of the summer hot. I had the system set on auto at 70 degrees. My ride home is about 38 miles, about 10 miles down the highway I had to start adjusting the temp up as I was getting cold. My system seems to be working ok, but we will see when it gets hotter.
 
Yes, just open the valve, only takes amount of time to open and close hood. This was the best thing I have done to date. It gets terribly hot here in Houston, combined with black truck and sun roof. My wife wouldn’t ride with me last summer, all is good now. Valve is closed until the fall.
Yup, that Gulf life....Agreed, except when you get the all common afternoon thunderstorm and temps drop about 30 degrees instantly and your windows fog up and you would have to stop, pop the hood, turn the HOT valve to get some heat to defrost. With the solenoid valve, just push a button to open the valve from the cab.
 
I currently have the a/c mod, and recently I’ve noticed a small, very small leak out of the top of the valve, essentially the threaded area. Anyone experience this? Thinking I should replace it? Also, I have a Durango that could use some A/C assistance. Has anyone done this to a Durango by chance?
 
I currently have the a/c mod, and recently I’ve noticed a small, very small leak out of the top of the valve, essentially the threaded area. Anyone experience this? Thinking I should replace it? Also, I have a Durango that could use some A/C assistance. Has anyone done this to a Durango by chance?

Yes, my leaking began after I opened the valve this spring after 9 months of use. I was using this style:


This valve has better specs and is reportedly more durable:

 
Yes, my leaking began after I opened the valve this spring after 9 months of use. I was using this style:


This valve has better specs and is reportedly more durable:


Ya I have the top one installed now also. Maybe I’ll upgrade and get the other one. Thanks
 
Yes, my leaking began after I opened the valve this spring after 9 months of use. I was using this style:


This valve has better specs and is reportedly more durable:


What size are you using or is everyone using of the second one?
 
Just ordered an electronically operated ball valve. It's the "normally open" version, so with the flip of a switch in the cab it will close off the coolant flow to the heater core giving me the coldest temps possible. And if its a really cold morning I can just turn it off and have everything back to normal, all without going under the hood. Much more convenient in my opinion.
 
Just ordered an electronically operated ball valve. It's the "normally open" version, so with the flip of a switch in the cab it will close off the coolant flow to the heater core giving me the coldest temps possible. And if its a really cold morning I can just turn it off and have everything back to normal, all without going under the hood. Much more convenient in my opinion.
Any links to this magic valve?
Let us know how it works after the install.
 
Any links to this magic valve?
Let us know how it works after the install.

 
Just ordered an electronically operated ball valve. It's the "normally open" version, so with the flip of a switch in the cab it will close off the coolant flow to the heater core giving me the coldest temps possible. And if its a really cold morning I can just turn it off and have everything back to normal, all without going under the hood. Much more convenient in my opinion.
Yes do keep us updated, pictures too.
 
I just talked to the master "reefer repair" guy where I work. The kind of reefer units the go in tractor trailers and can keep them at -20*
He said he saw no problems at all with closing off the heater core to get as cold as air as I could, could not see any risk of "freeze up". Also said "why not all the big rig trucks do too".
Granted he is not an auto AC technician, so it's another man's opinion. We stood around my Ram this morning with the hood open looking at what I had done, talking about the situation. Said he would "do it too".
People have been bypassing heater cores long before you were born. I think it will be alright. :)
Absolutely correct. Every Dodge Durango in the Middle East (win the 2000’s) had this modification done to the heater core plumbing.
 
I’m lucky. 95 today and first test with my AC in my 20 laramie and it was cold!
 
Absolutely correct. Every Dodge Durango in the Middle East (win the 2000’s) had this modification done to the heater core plumbing.

Im looking into doing this on my 2020 srt Durango but I can’t seem to find which line to tap into. but I swapped out my valve on my truck. Love the mod cuz my truck is ice cold.
 
Im looking into doing this on my 2020 srt Durango but I can’t seem to find which line to tap into. but I swapped out my valve on my truck. Love the mod cuz my truck is ice cold.
Find where the hoses go to the heater core on the fire wall. Its always the top hose going into the heater core, then just find a suitable spot in that hose to tap into. You can use a clamp to test and verify b4 cutting into it as well.
 
After going through maybe a dozen visits to the dealer from everything from the screen software updates, various rattles, brake squeal and noises like a sasquatch, this is my only issue left. I've got the parts today, just a matter of doing it. 94 degrees here and my wife and daughter can't stand that it takes 15 minutes to get the cab cool. Any other last minute tips anyone has learned with the @KcRay hack that is keeping families happy during the summer months?:ROFLMAO: Going to have to do it tomorrow!
 

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