Air conditioning Hack

[KcRay]

I took a few pictures, and need some assistance.
First, this looks like the in/out hose for the heater core thru the firewall, near the passenger side.
View attachment 36259

And one line goes into the larger hose attached to the radiator.
View attachment 36260

And I believe the hose I need to clamp is the one shown below, entering the engine area, must be the water pump?
View attachment 36261

Is this correct? I would hate to clamp a random AC or radiator hose and burn up my truck!

The hose at the top, going through the fire wall to the heater core is always the inlet. Follow it down and clamp it off anywhere, as long as it is a heater hose going directly to the heater core.

 

[KcRay]

The hose at the top, going through the fire wall to the heater core is always the inlet. Follow it down and clamp it off anywhere, as long as it is a heater hose going directly to the heater core.

You could even clamp it up by the firewall

 

[downsjh]

You could even clamp it up by the firewall

Thanks. Clamped near the firewall, dropped air temp by 10 degrees (48F at idle after 10 min in 90F weather. )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dmodem]

It's embarrassing when I tell friends how posh my $63k Ram is, but then have to deflect laughter when I show them a $8 Harbor Freight clamp set has to rectify a known air conditioning issue that Ram doesn't have a remedy for - even though they acknowledged my system was problematic while it was at the Ram dealer for a week this summer without being fixed.

 

[Timeless]

It's embarrassing when I tell friends how posh my $63k Ram is, but then have to deflect laughter when I show them a $8 Harbor Freight clamp set has to rectify a known air conditioning issue that Ram doesn't have a remedy for - even though they acknowledged my system was problematic while it was at the Ram dealer for a week this summer without being fixed.

@RamCares

It is beyond ridiculous that FCA is not addressing this issue on what is a fantastic offering otherwise.

 

[Jack Whitefield]

I have a sneaky suspicion that Ram knows what the issue is, and they don't want to acknowledge it. Lets just say the issue effects 25% of 2019/2020 Rams. Lets assume they know what the problem is, and the fix would require tearing the dash apart, and replacing a defective part. Logistically, how would/could they accomplish this, with thousands of Rams.

The simplest solution is to deny there is an issue at all. IE, "It's working within manufacturers specs." That seems to be the general line I keep seeing on the board. "It's working within specs." You have to wonder if Ram is telling the dealerships to keep repeating that line, until owners just give up.

 

[Timeless]

I have a sneaky suspicion that Ram knows what the issue is, and they don't want to acknowledge it. Lets just say the issue effects 25% of 2019/2020 Rams. Lets assume they know what the problem is, and the fix would require tearing the dash apart, and replacing a defective part. Logistically, how would/could they accomplish this, with thousands of Rams.

The simplest solution is to deny there is an issue at all. IE, "It's working within manufacturers specs." That seems to be the general line I keep seeing on the board. "It's working within specs." You have to wonder if Ram is telling the dealerships to keep repeating that line, until owners just give up.

I suspect the defect is much higher and Ram just knows that not every part of the country sees triple digit temps and high humidity.

 

[User_3336]

Just like FORD and all the 18 F150's with the Coyote 5.0 V8 engine, and the excessive oil consumption. Denied for the longest that the oil consumption "was within specs on a new truck". Blamed on the "break-in" period. THEN the problem became MORE widespread and worse, to the point they had to start replacing engines. Denied the issue for a while, then it came back to bite them in the butt. You know that's costing them a nice $$$$$...
Likewise RAM will never admit the flaw much like post #649.

 

[KcRay]

I suspect the defect is much higher and Ram just knows that not every part of the country sees triple digit temps and high humidity.

Agreed, this is a "design flaw" or "vehicle characteristic". Majority of buyers are just not as sensitive to this as others are.

 

[grooves12]

Agreed, this is a "design flaw" or "vehicle characteristic". Majority of buyers are just not as sensitive to this as others are.

Agreed. I don't think the problem has anything to do with the temps of the AC system. The problem is there is not enough airflow because the vents are too small and/or have poor airflow design throughout the system. This results in not enough volume of cold air flowing throughout the cabin and incredibly loud vents with the AC on.

My 2003 GMC Sierra probably pushed as much airflow at 50% fan speed as the new Ram does at Max and did so with 25% of the noise level.

I experienced the same headache with a home AC system when a capacitor dropped fan speed and airflow throughout the system. The home AC blew "in spec" at 52 degrees but wouldn't cool the house below 74. It took a few AC guys to figure out the problem, but once it as fixed it was back to making the house as cold as I wanted, via more airflow at the same 52 degree outlet temp. Unfortunately, I think the lack of airflow is a design flaw and don't think there will be a fix for us (unless trading in for a new model when they redesign the system is a "fix.")

 

[Gman]

The 5th gen has significantly more airflow than the previous gen. I still think the issue is related to a blend door that allows too much airflow through the heater core.

 

[ldoh]

I thought the 5th gen air vent design was a bit on the skimpy side too. It's surprising how narrow the sliver of column air is coming out from the dash vents. Other than comfort and cabin temperature, I wonder how vent air flow is tested. I guess one could use a anemometer to compare wind speed between the classic and 5th gen but that wouldn't capture the 2 or 3 dimensional slices of cooled air available throughout a heated cabin.

A time elapsed IR image comparison would show the shortcoming about as well as a steak cooking on the dash and it would show possible leaks directed through the defrost/windshield.

 

[jimk hunt]

I thought the 5th gen air vent design was a bit on the skimpy side too. It's surprising how narrow the sliver of column air is coming out from the dash vents. Other than comfort and cabin temperature, I wonder how vent air flow is tested. I guess one could use a anemometer to compare wind speed between the classic and 5th gen but that wouldn't capture the 2 or 3 dimensional slices of cooled air available throughout a heated cabin.

A time elapsed IR image comparison would show the shortcoming about as well as a steak cooking on the dash and it would show possible leaks directed through the defrost/windshield.

It's the blend door, nothing to do with the size of the vents or ducting. That's why the hack works.

 

[ldoh]

It's the blend door, nothing to do with the size of the vents or ducting. That's why the hack works.

We're talking about two different things. Vent air flow depends on the fan, duct resistance, vent openings, less on temperature, and nothing related to the hack.

 

[jimk hunt]

We're talking about two different things. Vent air flow depends on the fan, duct resistance, vent openings, less on temperature, and nothing related to the hack.

I tried but failed to quote grooves12 as well.
"Agreed. I don't think the problem has anything to do with the temps of the AC system. The problem is there is not enough airflow because the vents are too small and/or have poor airflow design throughout the system. This results in not enough volume of cold air flowing throughout the cabin and incredibly loud vents with the AC on."

If you were not agreeing with him, my bad. The vents are not the reason the ac is ineffective.

 

[grooves12]

If the air coming out of the vents is 55 degrees... yet, the cabin remains at 70+, the problem is not enough airflow. Hacks that lower the temp of the outlet air will have some impact, but it is a band-aid that doesn't fix the underlying problem (and could cause other problems.)

 

[User_3336]

VENT TEMP is never going to be anywhere near cabin temp. Just is no way.

just as your home a/c system. My vents blow 58 degree vent temps, but about 70-71 is about as cool as it gets. I supposed if I let it run all day might be lower...

If the air coming out of the vents is 55 degrees... yet, the cabin remains at 70+, the problem is not enough airflow. Hacks that lower the temp of the outlet air will have some impact, but it is a band-aid that doesn't fix the underlying problem (and could cause other problems.)

 

[Gman]

There's thermal energy being put into the cab, even if it's cool outside. There's going to be at least one carbon-based life-form/hot water bottle in there at about 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit.

The idea that the cab temp will be in alignment with the vent temp for A/C is unrealistic.

 

[ColoradoCub]

Some of you are reaching for answers and hopeful solutions. I had zero issues at 99 deg cooling down my cabin with the hack in place. I did not need to have the fan on 3/4 to high speeds all the time like I do with the hack not in place. The air flow and duct sizing IMO are just fine when my AC is blowing 43 deg, when it’s blowing 52-54 deg my fan never comes off high and even then it doesn’t seem like enough air is being pushed. The problem IMO is trying to cool the cab with mid 50’s AC temps.

 

[ldoh]

There's a lot of venting in these a/c threads. And most would say a hack shouldn't be an answer or a solution for an expensive new vehicle. No questions mid 50's to 43F helps. But those living in desert-like environments have different needs - call it worst case scenario demands that a/c vehicle systems have been handling for years. In worst case outside temp scenarios adequate vent air flow makes a huge difference even with 40F vent temps. We shouldn't need the hack or supplement the hack with $500 ceramic tinting and turning off passenger vents but there it is.