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Adding Passive Entry: How-to

Jimmy07

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View attachment 77342
I didn't find any obvious loose, disconnected, etc wires.
The white plug on the door module has power at the red and black wires coming from the door. The black plug with wires going to the window motor has no power. If I push the window button they get power for a brief moment but then back to zero voltage. Checked the module to switch and module to window motor wires for continuity. Did I mess up the door module somehow?
The two big wires on black connector (C7/G) are the only possible problem circuits. With AlfaOBD, connect to the passenger door module, scan for faults (there will be a bunch from when you had everything unplugged from it), clear them out. Start the truck (you can stay connected to the door module), operate the passenger window. Then scan for faults again and tell us what you got.
 

Scyllint

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Nevermind. Couldn't help myself.
B2577 - no description
B18BA - open circuit. Window control
 

Jimmy07

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Nevermind. Couldn't help myself.
B2577 - no description
B18BA - open circuit. Window control
B2577 is the lost calibration fault. To calibrate, you roll the window up and keep the switch up for a few seconds after the window is up, then roll the window down, and keep the switch pressed down for a few seconds. Obviously, you can’t do this until B18BA is taken care of. It’s probably an actual open circuit on one of those two wires, or bad connection at the door module or window motor. You can’t really tell by measuring voltage at the door module window driver pins, because the module probably shuts those circuits down when it has no load. If the wiring and connections are good, apply 12 volts directly to the window motor up then down circuits. If those are good, then it would be safe to assume the door module went bad.
 

Scyllint

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If the wiring and connections are good, apply 12 volts directly to the window motor up then down circuits.
Where do I apply the 12 volts for those circuits?
I have an extra car battery I can wire up
 

Jimmy07

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Where do I apply the 12 volts for those circuits?
I have an extra car battery I can wire up
Here is the pinout of the connector that plugs into the motor, so you’ll be using the pins on the motor that the connector engages-
9rmNPn0.jpg

If using an external battery supply, ground the negative battery to the truck metal. Apply positive battery to pin 3 to see if the window goes down, and apply power to pin 6 to see if the window goes up.
 

abaddon48

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Here are some part numbers to get people started. These should work on both 2019 and 2020 models. Harnesses are going to be more specific based on your options, or you can just add the 2 wires and plugs to your existing stuff and save a good bit of money.

Double check the description if you use these numbers to order stuff and make sure it's correct. If you find a mistake please let me know so I can correct it.

ColorBody Color HandleBody Color/Chrome HandleHandle Cap, LeftHandle Cap, Right
Bright White6CV64GW7AD6C4361W7AD6CV50GW7AC6CV52GW7AB
Ivory White6CV64KGZAD6CV361WDAD6CV50JWDAC6CV52JWDAB
Diamond Black Crystal6CV64KXJAD6CV361XJAD6CV50KXJAC6CV52KXJAB
Maximum Steel Metallic6CV64KARAD6CV361ARAD6CV50KARAC6CV52KARAB
Granite Crystal Metallic6CV64LAUAD6CV361AUAD6CV50LAUAC6CV52LAUAB
Billet Silver Metallic6CV64JSCAD6CV361SCAD6CV50JSCAC6CV52JSCAB
Patriot Blue Pearl6CV64RPXAD6CV361PXAD6CV50RPXAC6CV52RPXAB
Blue Streak Pearl6CV64KCLAD6CV361CLAD6CV50KCLAC6CV52KCLAB
Flame Red6CV64PR4AD6CV361R4AD6CV50PR4AC6CV52PR4AB

Replacement Clips

Door Interior Trim Panel Retainer (Yellow): 6510747AA

Door Interior Trim Panel Retainer (White): 6510359AA
Do these parts apply to 2021 also?
 

Scyllint

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B2577 is the lost calibration fault. To calibrate, you roll the window up and keep the switch up for a few seconds after the window is up, then roll the window down, and keep the switch pressed down for a few seconds. Obviously, you can’t do this until B18BA is taken care of. It’s probably an actual open circuit on one of those two wires, or bad connection at the door module or window motor. You can’t really tell by measuring voltage at the door module window driver pins, because the module probably shuts those circuits down when it has no load. If the wiring and connections are good, apply 12 volts directly to the window motor up then down circuits. If those are good, then it would be safe to assume the door module went bad.
Applied power to both terminals (not at the same time) on the window motor and nothing happens.
Jumped power from the red wire at the door power module to the motor also and still no joy. New window motor time I guess?
 
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Quicksilver76

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Ok. I've read through the entire post and I am about ready to pull the trigger on this. I've gotten the wiring harnesses from Jimmy and need a few other parts to get going. While I was reading, I realized there is a button on the handle of the Ram passive entry.
So, my question is how does it work? Do you have to push the button every time to unlock the doors or can you just place your hand between the handle and the door and doors come unlocked? I get it to lock the doors you need the buttons, but I'm wondering about the unlock.
 

Scyllint

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Ok. I've read through the entire post and I am about ready to pull the trigger on this. I've gotten the wiring harnesses from Jimmy and need a few other parts to get going. While I was reading, I realized there is a button on the handle of the Ram passive entry.
So, my question is how does it work? Do you have to push the button every time to unlock the doors or can you just place your hand between the handle and the door and doors come unlocked? I get it to lock the doors you need the buttons, but I'm wondering about the unlock.
The button is just for locking. Grab handle to unlock doors, push button to lock
 

Quicksilver76

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That's what I was hoping for. I have a Highlander and that's how it works. I once opened a Mazda for a friend and I got laughed at because I didn't know I had to "push the button" to unlock the doors. Maybe I was doing something wrong or is Mazda that far off?
 

Scyllint

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Some vehicles are different. On my mom's Nissan you have to push the button to lock and unlock
 

eproulx38

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USPS is killing me. Dealership I ordered all my parts from is only 4 1/2 hours from me in the same state. They assured me that they dropped off my parts to USPS office near them 6 days ago (15th). USPS tracking is still stuck on " Shipping label created". I have the harnesses from Jimmy already and my vacation starts Wednesday so I will have free time to install it. USPS better get moving haha!
Just scanned today in California. Looks like I'm waiting a little longer for the install. NY to California then back to NY...pretty streamlined haha.
 

MayhemMOORE

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Posts 9 and 10 have been updated with some install instructions and photos should be working now for the HD's. Thanks to @Scyllint for providing this info, and to @B1bfragger for letting me know I was the only one who could view the photos.
 

V-Twin

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This extra wire looks to go to 8c on the main harness.
I snipe the connector and swapped with old harness. Everything works fine as normal with our passive entry. I haven't configured it yet.


View attachment 63133 View attachment 63134
I received the same connector with the extra wire. What did you do with the extra wire? Just cut it, tape it and not use it?

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 

tswea1

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Help needed,

Recently attempted to do this passive entry modification on a 2020 Bighorn lv2 with limited success. Parts used are below

6CV361XJAD - door handle
6EG54KXJAB - right door handle cover
6FX82KXJAC - left door handle cover
56046957AA - rear antenna
Wiring harness from Jimmy

Made the required setting changes in AlphaOBD and double checked to make sure I didn’t miss one.

Currently, I am getting no response from either the driver or passenger doors when attempting to open or lock using the handle. However, the tailgate passive entry feature is working. Passive entry setting shows up in the connectU.

Any thoughts on how to trouble shoot or what the issue may be?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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