Adding Passive Entry: How-to

[MayhemMOORE]

Help needed,

Recently attempted to do this passive entry modification on a 2020 Bighorn lv2 with limited success. Parts used are below

6CV361XJAD - door handle
6EG54KXJAB - right door handle cover
6FX82KXJAC - left door handle cover
56046957AA - rear antenna
Wiring harness from Jimmy

Made the required setting changes in AlphaOBD and double checked to make sure I didn’t miss one.

Currently, I am getting no response from either the driver or passenger doors when attempting to open or lock using the handle. However, the tailgate passive entry feature is working. Passive entry setting shows up in the connectU.

Any thoughts on how to trouble shoot or what the issue may be?

Thanks


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Does everything else in the door work, windows, locks, etc? My guess is either the main door harness connector or connector at each handle is not seated right, or the pins you added to them are not in the correct position.

 

[tswea1]

Yup, everything else in the door is working (windows, mirror, locks). Was worried that it might be related to the wiring, guess time to get up close and personal with the door again.


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[MayhemMOORE]

Yup, everything else in the door is working (windows, mirror, locks). Was worried that it might be related to the wiring, guess time to get up close and personal with the door again.


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Double check that the pins from Jimmy’s harnesses are in the correct spots and seated fully. If everything else works I’m guessing it’s either got to be that, or the plug at the handles themselves.

 

[V-Twin]

Correct

Thanks!

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[Scyllint]

Double check that the pins from Jimmy’s harnesses are in the correct spots and seated fully. If everything else works I’m guessing it’s either got to be that, or the plug at the handles themselves.

This and also how did you snake the wire from the handles in the frame? The wire from the handles could be taken out if the window hits it as it moves

 

[MayhemMOORE]

This and also how did you snake the wire from the handles in the frame? The wire from the handles could be taken out if the window hits it as it moves

Good point. I would think that it would probably jam up the window, but you never know. If it’s both doors, I’m leaning towards pins not fully seated or they ended up in the wrong positions somehow. I don’t think anyone else has posted about an issue affecting both doors until now.

 

[Pete7919]

Just completed and wanted to add some details from my install.

1. I ordered this OBD controller: Veepeak Mini WiFi OBD2 Scanner for iOS and Android for $16.99
2. I also ordered this cable: sportuli Fit for Chrysler -12+8 Cable Adaptor for Autel MaxiSys MS908 MS906S 908S MS905 for $35.99

These two items save $$$ vs some of the other suggestions I've seen.

I had purchased Jscan for when I installed the OEM Tow Controller because I wanted to use my Iphone and it was cheaper than AlfaOBD. I could not use it for this install. Maybe someday it'll be updated for the 2019-2020 MY. Had I known I would need AlfaOBD for this project I would have saved a bit by purchasing it for the previous project.

I was able to get AlfaOBD at a slight discount by using an Amazon Fire Tablet and purchasing "Coins". I needed to buy 5300 coins for $45.41 so that saved $4.58 off full price.

I also wanted to confirm that I used this antenna: 52112204AA. I had ordered two so I could pick the one that fit the best. I ended up using 3M VHB to secure it close to the area where it's supposed to go from the back. I didn't even lower the spare. I just slapped it in and then zip tied the cable in place.

I ordered everything from OEMpartsource.com. My total (including the extra antenna because I wanted to see which would fit better) was $205.05 plus shipping.

Here are my parts in case you are interested:

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
56046957AA​	Passive Entry Antenna​	$7.40​	1​	$7.40​
52112204AA​	Passive Entry Antenna​	$7.94​	1​	$7.94​
6CV361SCAD​	Exterior Door Handle, Right​	$88.14​	2​	$176.28​
6CV50JSCAC​	Door Handle Cap, Left​	$6.47​	1​	$6.47​
6CV52JSCAB​	Door Handle Cap, Right​	$6.96​	1​	$6.96​

Total for this project:

Door handle and antenna parts: $215.02
Wire Harnesses: $105
OBD Controller and bypass cable: $0 (I had these from OEM Tow Controller project. Would have cost me $56.16)
Kindle fire for AlfaOBD: $0 (I already owned. New these are $49.99+tax)
AlfaOBD: $45.41 (Purchased 5300 coins and then purchased on Amazon Fire App Store).

Total cost I paid since I had some of the parts: $365.43
Total cost if you but everything except an Android phone or tablet: $421.59
Total cost if you had to buy everything needed for this project including a tablet: $474.58

My numbers are based on Silver Billet/Chrome parts and include 6% sales tax.

 

[Jimmy07]

Just completed and wanted to add some details from my install.

1. I ordered this OBD controller: Veepeak Mini WiFi OBD2 Scanner for iOS and Android for $16.99
2. I also ordered this cable: sportuli Fit for Chrysler -12+8 Cable Adaptor for Autel MaxiSys MS908 MS906S 908S MS905 for $35.99

These two items save $$$ vs some of the other suggestions I've seen.

I had purchased Jscan for when I installed the OEM Tow Controller because I wanted to use my Iphone and it was cheaper than AlfaOBD. I could not use it for this install. Maybe someday it'll be updated for the 2019-2020 MY. Had I known I would need AlfaOBD for this project I would have saved a bit by purchasing it for the previous project.

I was able to get AlfaOBD at a slight discount by using an Amazon Fire Tablet and purchasing "Coins". I needed to buy 5300 coins for $45.41 so that saved $4.58 off full price.

I also wanted to confirm that I used this antenna: 52112204AA. I had ordered two so I could pick the one that fit the best. I ended up using 3M VHB to secure it close to the area where it's supposed to go from the back. I didn't even lower the spare. I just slapped it in and then zip tied the cable in place.

I ordered everything from OEMpartsource.com. My total (including the extra antenna because I wanted to see which would fit better) was $205.05 plus shipping.

Here are my parts in case you are interested:

Part Number​	Part Name​	Price​	Quantity​	Total​
56046957AA​	Passive Entry Antenna​	$7.40​	1​	$7.40​
52112204AA​	Passive Entry Antenna​	$7.94​	1​	$7.94​
6CV361SCAD​	Exterior Door Handle, Right​	$88.14​	2​	$176.28​
6CV50JSCAC​	Door Handle Cap, Left​	$6.47​	1​	$6.47​
6CV52JSCAB​	Door Handle Cap, Right​	$6.96​	1​	$6.96​

Total for this project:

Door handle and antenna parts: $215.02
Wire Harnesses: $105
OBD Controller and bypass cable: $0 (I had these from OEM Tow Controller project. Would have cost me $56.16)
Kindle fire for AlfaOBD: $0 (I already owned. New these are $49.99+tax)
AlfaOBD: $45.41 (Purchased 5300 coins and then purchased on Amazon Fire App Store).

Total cost I paid since I had some of the parts: $365.43
Total cost if you but everything except an Android phone or tablet: $421.59
Total cost if you had to buy everything needed for this project including a tablet: $474.58

My numbers are based on Silver Billet/Chrome parts and include 6% sales tax.

I know it’s too late for you, but I’ll mention it for anyone else that is strictly an iPhone user. Jscan will work for this on the DT trucks, even though it’s not in the list. Most of these FCA vehicles share BCMs and configuration settings. You would buy the license for your VIN, and just choose a gladiator JT or wrangler JL, or ram DS, and connect as one of those vehicles. All the same settings are there that need to be changed.

 

[Pete7919]

I know it’s too late for you, but I’ll mention it for anyone else that is strictly an iPhone user. Jscan will work for this on the DT trucks, even though it’s not in the list. Most of these FCA vehicles share BCMs and configuration settings. You would buy the license for your VIN, and just choose a gladiator JT or wrangler JL, or ram DS, and connect as one of those vehicles. All the same settings are there that need to be changed.

I guess I didn’t look deep enough but I couldn’t find all the settings to change in JScan. I was successful with it before...

 

[Jimmy07]

I guess I didn’t look deep enough but I couldn’t find all the settings to change in JScan. I was successful with it before...

You might have been looking for all of the settings from the list in the writeup, but it’s only 5 settings in Jscan- passive entry present, passive entry CSM, AP1 smart switch, AP2 smart switch, and AP5 smart switch. Then restart ECUs.
EDIT: I see what you mean, now. The passive entry settings aren’t there for DS Rams, but they are for JTs and JLs, so you would connect to one of those to make the changes.

 

[tswea1]

Good point. I would think that it would probably jam up the window, but you never know. If it’s both doors, I’m leaning towards pins not fully seated or they ended up in the wrong positions somehow. I don’t think anyone else has posted about an issue affecting both doors until now.

So, took the drivers side door apart, confirmed the pins were in the correct location, and using multimeter confirmed that the wires were in the correct location. Any suggestions on how to test or what the issue may be?

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[Jimmy07]

So, took the drivers side door apart, confirmed the pins were in the correct location, and using multimeter confirmed that the wires were in the correct location. Any suggestions on how to test or what the issue may be?

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Are the terminals locked into the connector housing with no way to “push” them out? When you insert the wires, did you pry up the white and brown faces inside the connector to unlock the terminals, and here an audible click when you inserted them.

 

[MayhemMOORE]

So, took the drivers side door apart, confirmed the pins were in the correct location, and using multimeter confirmed that the wires were in the correct location. Any suggestions on how to test or what the issue may be?

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When I did mine I used factory harnesses, so I’m not sure where to go from here. Are the wires for passive entry indeed populated all the way up to the body side of that connector? @Jimmy07 can probably tell you exactly what to look for, he is very knowledgeable on all the wiring and stuff in these trucks.

 

[tswea1]

Are the terminals locked into the connector housing with no way to “push” them out? When you insert the wires, did you pry up the white and brown faces inside the connector to unlock the terminals, and here an audible click when you inserted them.

I did not pry up the white and brown faces to unlock the terminals, however I did hear an audible click and there is no way to push them out, tried with a set of needle nose pliers to push them out today. Also, the pins appear to have the same amount exposed, so I am fairly certainly they are fully seated.

Does someone have a picture of the magnet on the door cover? I took a close look at the driver side one and could not find it, so wondering if maybe I got the wrong parts?


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[MayhemMOORE]

I did not pry up the white and brown faces to unlock the terminals, however I did hear an audible click and there is no way to push them out, tried with a set of needle nose pliers to push them out today. Also, the pins appear to have the same amount exposed, so I am fairly certainly they are fully seated.

Does someone have a picture of the magnet on the door cover? I took a close look at the driver side one and could not find it, so wondering if maybe I got the wrong parts?


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Take a look back at post #342. I posted a photo of my original caps without magnets. You can see the slot where the magnet would go. I believe all the caps are made the same, it’s just the matter of whether the actual magnet is in there or not. Give me a few and I’ll pull the cap off my truck and get a shot of a factory setup with the magnet in it.

 

[MayhemMOORE]

@tswea1 here’s a shot of the cap from the driver’s side on my truck. You can see the tiny magnet in the slot.

 

[tswea1]

@tswea1 here’s a shot of the cap from the driver’s side on my truck. You can see the tiny magnet in the slot.

Well, mystery solved, no magnet


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[tswea1]

I do also notice yours has a different QR code number, 20 252 PE compared to my 20 154.


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[MayhemMOORE]

I do also notice yours has a different QR code number, 20 252 PE compared to my 20 154.


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Well that’s good to know it was something simple and not something related to the actual wiring, and also only a few dollar fix.

The pic with the magnet is from my ‘21 with factory passive entry so that might be where the difference is with the codes along with paint color. But I’m guessing the PE part of it likely denotes passive entry.

 

[Scorch95]

Out of curiosity, are the pe door handed actually painted or is the plastic dyed to match the paint? I have an Anvil BTS and like the flat black textured handles. I know if I want to add pe ill have to accept either the gloss black or possibly have them painted flat black. Question would be how to protect the paint long term.


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