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Adding Passive Entry: How-to

More curious than anything. does anyone know what the point of the rear antenna is?
 
Anyone in Michigan able to add sales code for me? Or have alpha near grand blanc?
 
Anyone in Michigan able to add sales code for me? Or have alpha near grand blanc?
Just adding the sales code won't do anything and that is a dealer only thing anyway. How far are you from Indianapolis?
 
Just adding the sales code won't do anything and that is a dealer only thing anyway. How far are you from Indianapolis?
Adding the sales code would allow him to keep it after a dealer software update though, wouldn't it? I haven't done mine yet, but it would be nice to not have to worry about the dealership killing that with an update. I know it can be fixed easily though by simply reprograming it with AlfaODB later.
 
Adding the sales code would allow him to keep it after a dealer software update though, wouldn't it? I haven't done mine yet, but it would be nice to not have to worry about the dealership killing that with an update. I know it can be fixed easily though by simply reprograming it with AlfaODB later.
It would yes. If the dealer does a restore, it would wipe it out without the sales code. Most dealers won't add a sales code to user added equipment. You might find one that will. The best thing to do is create a backup of your config in AlfaODB after you make any changes. Then you can simply restore it yourself. Of course you have to have AlfaODB and the bypass cables.
 
Does anyone have any tips for getting the rubber boot to sit flush again over the cab to door connection in the door jamb? Thanks
 
Does anyone have any tips for getting the rubber boot to sit flush again over the cab to door connection in the door jamb? Thanks
Make sure it goes over the white plastic part completely. You just have to work it over it. I did it before pushing the connector back into the door jamb.
 
Finished the whole project. Took me about 8 hours all set and done. 5 of the hours was just the passenger door. Once I figured it out it went much faster. Thanks to Jimmy for the wiring. And for the huge write up, couldn’t have done it without it.
 
If you are going to use the numbers below to order parts, double check them as things can change over time, so it's going to be up to you to verify you're getting the correct part when ordering. If you find a mistake please let me know so I can correct it.

5th Gen 1500 Handle and Cap Part Numbers
These should work on any of the 2019 and newer 5th gen 1500 trucks. Harnesses are going to be more specific based on your options, or you can just add the 2 wires and plugs to your existing stuff and save a good bit of money.

COLORBODY COLOR HANDLE, L & RBODY COLOR/CHROME HANDLE L & RHANDLE CAP, LEFTHANDLE CAP, RIGHT
Bright White6CV64GW7AD6CV361W7AD6CV50GW7AC6CV52GW7AB
Ivory White6CV64KGZAD6CV361WDAD6CV50JWDAC6CV52JWDAB
Diamond Black Crystal6CV64KXJAD6CV361XJAD6CV50KXJAC6CV52KXJAB
Maximum Steel Metallic6CV64KARAD6CV361ARAD6CV50KARAC6CV52KARAB
Granite Crystal Metallic6CV64LAUAD6CV361AUAD6CV50LAUAC6CV52LAUAB
Billet Silver Metallic6CV64JSCAD6CV361SCAD6CV50JSCAC6CV52JSCAB
Patriot Blue Pearl6CV64RPXAD6CV361PXAD6CV50RPXAC6CV52RPXAB
Blue Streak Pearl6CV64KCLAD6CV361CLAD6CV50KCLAC6CV52KCLAB
Flame Red6CV64PR4AD6CV361R4AD6CV50PR4AC6CV52PR4AB
Olive Green6CV64KFPAD6CV361FPAD6CV50KFPAC6CV52KFPAB

Replacement Clips for the 1500 door panels
Door Interior Trim Panel Retainer (Yellow): 6510747AA
Door Interior Trim Panel Retainer (White): 6510359AA

HD Part Numbers
Thank you to @01Time for providing the more comprehensive list below for the HD trucks than I had originally posted.

COLORBODY COLOR, FRONT LEFTBODY COLOR, FRONT RIGHTBODY COLOR, REAR LEFTBODY COLOR, REAR RIGHTBODY COLOR/CHROME, FRONT LEFTBODY COLOR/CHROME, FRONT RIGHTBODY COLOR/CHROME, REAR LEFTBODY COLOR/CHROME, REAR RIGHT
BILLET SILVER METALLIC1UJ81JSCAI1UJ86JSCAI1GH19JSCAF1GH18JSCAF6NV571SCAD6NV561SCAC6NV591SCAC6NV581SCAC
BLACK FOREST GREEN PEARL1UJ81KGZAI1UJ86KGZAI1GH19KGZAF1GH18KGZAF6NV571GZAD6NV561GZAC6NV591GZAC6NV581GZAC
BLUE STREAK PEARL1UJ81KCLAI1UJ86KCLAI1GH19KCLAF1GH18KCLAF6NV571CLAD6NV561CLAC6NV591CLAC6NV581CLAC
BRIGHT SILVER METALLIC1UJ81WS2AI1UJ86WS2AI1GH19WS2AF1GH18WS2AF6NV571S2AD6NV561S2AC6NV591S2AC6NV581S2AC
BRIGHT WHITE1UJ81GW7AI1UJ86GW7AI1GH19GW7AF1GH18GW7AF6NV571W7AD6NV561W7AC6NV591W7AC6NV581W7AC
BRILLIANT BLACK PEARL1UJ81AXRAI1UJ86AXRAI1GH19AXRAF1GH18AXRAF6NV571XRAD6NV561XRAC6NV591XRAC6NV581XRAC
DELMONICO RED1UJ81NRVAI1UJ86NRVAI1GH19NRVAF1GH18NRVAF6NV571RVAD6NV561RVAC6NV591RVAC6NV581RVAC
DIAMOND BLACK CRYSTAL PEARL1UJ81KXJAI1UJ86KXJAI1GH19KXJAF1GH18KXJAF6NV571XJAD6NV561XJAC6NV591XJAC6NV581XJAC
FLAME RED1UJ81PR4AI1UJ86PR4AI1GH19PR4AF1GH18PR4AF6NV571R4AD6NV561R4AC6NV591R4AC6NV581R4AC
GRANITE CRYSTAL METALLIC1UJ81LAUAI1UJ86LAUAI1GH19LAUAF1GH18LAUAF6NV571AUAD6NV561AUAC6NV591AUAC6NV581AUAC
MAXIMUM STEEL METALLIC1UJ81KARAI1UJ86KARAI1GH19KARAF1GH18KARAF6NV571ARAD6NV561ARAC6NV591ARAC6NV581ARAC
PATRIOT BLUE PEARL1UJ81RPXAI1UJ86RPXAI1GH19RPXAF1GH18RPXAF6NV571PXAD6NV561PXAC6NV591PXAC6NV581PXAC
PEARL WHITE1UJ81PWQAI1UJ86PWQAI1GH19PWQAF1GH18PWQAF6NV571WQAD6NV561WQAC6NV591WQAC6NV581WQAC
TRUE BLUE PEARL1UJ81KBUAI1UJ86KBUAI1GH19KBUAF1GH18KBUAF6NV571BUAD6NV561BUAC6NV591BUAC6NV581BUAC
WALNUT BROWN METALLIC1UJ81RUWAI1UJ86RUWAI1GH19RUWAF1GH18RUWAF6NV571UWAD6NV561UWAC6NV591UWAC6NV581UWAC
HYDRO BLUE METALLIC1GH19MBJAF1GH18MBJAF6NV571BJAD6NV561BJAC
OLIVE GREEN METALLIC1GH19KFPAF1GH18KFPAF6NV571FPAD6NV561FPAC


The following is a breakdown of the parts you will need to assemble your own 2-wire harnesses for the doors, as well as the rear antenna. All of the connectors and terminals can be found at Mouser or Digikey, except for the Yazaki stuff.

Rear Antenna Wiring Parts
22AWG wire (2 colors to make it easy)
Heat shrink tubing (recommended)
Braided wire sleeve (recommended)
Rear PE Antenna: 52112204AA or 56046957AA should work in this location
2019 & 2020 Rear Fascia Connector Terminals: TE Connectivity 1241380-1
2019 & 2020 Rear Fascia Connector Wire Seals: TE Connectivity 828904-1
2021 Rear Fascia Connector Terminals:
2021 Rear Fascia Connector Wire Seals:
2019+ Rear Antenna Connector Shell: TE Connectivity 1-1438608-5
2019+ Rear Antenna Connector Shell Terminals: TE Connectivity 1355717-1
2019+ Wire Seals for Antenna Terminals: TE Connectivity 963530-1

Door Handle Wiring Parts
18AWG wire (2 colors to make it easy)
Heat shrink tubing (recommended)
Braided wire sleeve (recommended)
Door Connector Terminals: Aptiv 10762775
Door Handle Connector Shell: Yazaki 7283-6079-30
Door Handle Connector Shell Terminals: Yazaki 7116-4720-02

Yazaki parts are hard to find without ordering minimum quantities. One option is to call SMD Inc, and see if they’ll send you free samples (2 connectors, 4 terminals).
@MayhemMOORE @Jimmy07

Please clarify Door Handle Wiring Parts for HD. It looks as though the cavities for the HD uses smaller blades at 3 locations

Thank You!
 
If anybody doesn’t want to spend the money for the entire door harnesses and rear facia harness, and doesn’t feel like building the add on harnesses with the parts, let me know and I can build them for you-
Ybotwhi.jpg
how much for the 3 cables I live in Ontario, Canada, Thanks.
 
I have a 2020 2500 PW Max Steel with the black textured door handles. Anyone have part numbers for the handles and caps? Local dealer can only find the handles and RH cap, no LH cap. I don't want to change all 4 to body color. I'm fine with the cheap black.
 
Ill add a couple pointers for future installers based on my experience:

1) only use hand tools on the torx screws. the one for the handle (holds the door lock) is only is cast aluminum. strips easily. ask me how I know. One M6 tap later..
2) ensure that the handle panel on the interior of the door is securely attached by the tab on the lock hole before tightening the torx screw below the handle. i didnt realize on the first door that this wasn't locked in place, which drove me crazy trying to figure out what the lock wouldn't set. Hence #1.

Other than that went good, second door was substantially easier.

Like many others used Jimmy's wiring. It was perfect. Quick shipping and very fairly priced.
 
Ive contacted two shops and a dealership. All have shot me down to do this, so to make the misses happy I'm gonna have to do this myself. Can anybody tell me what the cost is all in to do this?
 
Ive contacted two shops and a dealership. All have shot me down to do this, so to make the misses happy I'm gonna have to do this myself. Can anybody tell me what the cost is all in to do this?
Yep, no stealership will do it. I don't know exactly, but you can figure it up by the parts list. But best guess is less than $500.
 
Add me to the group who has successfully completed this mod - massive thanks to @MayhemMOORE and @Jimmy07 for the initial write up and the harnesses. Brilliant research to determine the mod process and the wire harnesses are top notch, factory grade units.

In my case the handles worked the moment I closed AlphaOBD and the Passive Entry option was also present right away in the UConnect settings.

The driver’s door would have taken me an hour less if I had paid enough attention to Tyler Potter’s video and his mention of how to release the two connectors that plug into the door harness. To remove those connectors press a small tab at the top of the white connector and the bottom of the brown one using a 90 degree pick or something similar - then pull the connectors from the harness. With that knowledge my passenger door only took about 45 minutes.

Again, thanks to all who contributed to this mod. I love working on my vehicles, and really enjoyed this project too. Forum posts like this are an awesome resource!

Cheers,

Bob
 
I now have sets of harnesses for the rear doors for anyone interested in making those passive entry. They are as plug n play as possible, aside from having to tap the wires for the front door handles (tapped under the front door sill trim).
Here’s a video of someone installing them:

View attachment 136151
Just knocked out the rear passenger side. I’m going to do the driver’s side rear tomorrow morning. This video was a huge help with following along the process. I actually think the rear door was easier than the fronts, but I’m only half way through this process so I may be speaking prematurely here. I found that everything was just a lot more cooperative. Especially those stubborn door connectors that we’ve all dealt with on the front doors. The rear doors release much more easily, at least in my experience they did.

I realistically could have had the rear passenger side done in about 1.5 hours but of course I jinxed myself and made a simple mistake during reassembly. Something was continuously catching on my window, preventing it from going all the way down. Logically thinking, I figured it had to be the new section of harness I installed, so I removed and re-routed it 3 or 4 times and still was running into the same issue. After a good 45 minutes of digging, I realized I stupidly installed the main door harness/grommet into the door upside down. Just as a FYI, the orientation arrows are there for a reason! Installing it upside down will cause the harness to catch on the window glass. Lol, just don’t be a bonehead like me and you should be fine with this project.

One other thing I noticed with the passenger side is that one wire from Jimmy’s harness has instructions to tap into a green wire with purple stripe. As the video Jimmy linked above indicates, the wires you want are both together right towards the top of the bundle on both the passenger and driver side. I just wanted to call this out because I did find another purple and green wire that could easily be mistaken as the wire to tap into if you’re not cautious (see photo below).

Once I complete the driver’s rear, I’ll update this post if I find anything else worth mentioning, but overall, the video from Jimmy’s post does an awesome job at breaking down the entire process.

Thanks again for the harnesses @Jimmy07. Amazing quality as usual.

8BDDD3D4-D862-4318-B381-E366B84ACDBC.jpeg
08A14DBC-67A5-4C01-8644-0A2D7E7E21E8.jpeg
 
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1675200840084.png
For those thinking of tackling this job, here is a pic of what the door panel looks like when it is removed from the frame. Red indicates the clips where the wire harness should be routed to prevent the window from snagging the harness. The Blue circle shows the torx bolt towards the front of the door handle and can be seen when the handle is removed from the car. The Green circle shows the back of where the door handle was. It uses the T25 torx bolt that you have to access on the side but cannot see because it is located inside the door. The Yellow circle shows the bolts I had to remove to route the harness through a rubber boot. Hope this helps/clarifies how to route the harness.
 
Just knocked out the rear passenger side. I’m going to do the driver’s side rear tomorrow morning. This video was a huge help with following along the process. I actually think the rear door was easier than the fronts, but I’m only half way through this process so I may be speaking prematurely here. I found that everything was just a lot more cooperative. Especially those stubborn door connectors that we’ve all dealt with on the front doors. The rear doors release much more easily, at least in my experience they did.

I realistically could have had the rear passenger side done in about 1.5 hours but of course I jinxed myself and made a simple mistake during reassembly. Something was continuously catching on my window, preventing it from going all the way down. Logically thinking, I figured it had to be the new section of harness I installed, so I removed and re-routed it 3 or 4 times and still was running into the same issue. After a good 45 minutes of digging, I realized I stupidly installed the main door harness/grommet into the door upside down. Just as a FYI, the orientation arrows are there for a reason! Installing it upside down will cause the harness to catch on the window glass. Lol, just don’t be a bonehead like me and you should be fine with this project.

One other thing I noticed with the passenger side is that one wire from Jimmy’s harness has instructions to tap into a green wire with purple stripe. As the video Jimmy linked above indicates, the wires you want are both together right towards the top of the bundle on both the passenger and driver side. I just wanted to call this out because I did find another purple and green wire that could easily be mistaken as the wire to tap into if you’re not cautious (see photo below).

Once I complete the driver’s rear, I’ll update this post if I find anything else worth mentioning, but overall, the video from Jimmy’s post does an awesome job at breaking down the entire process.

Thanks again for the harnesses @Jimmy07. Amazing quality as usual.

View attachment 150090
View attachment 150091

So just to provide an update to the driver's side rear door. I put this project on hold due to some uncertainty with the wiring portion. Specifically at the step with tapping the new passive entry harness from the rear door into the existing vehicle wiring by the driver's seat under the front door sill trim. The video Jimmy07 included above only illustrates the passenger side, which was simple enough to figure out and replicate. On the driver's side, one wire from the new passive entry harness is supposed to tap into a green/yellow wire while the other one is supposed to tap into a green/white wire.

I'm running into two issues here.
1. I'm not finding a definite green/yellow wire. I do see a green/tannish yellow but I’m not certain that is the correct one.
2. There are several variations of green/white wires in this grouping, and I'm not sure which is the correct one to tap into.

DE1114C2-DDED-4363-91CD-C699BA1AB6F5.jpeg

I have everything else complete and ready to go, so once I get this last piece of the puzzle sorted out I should be good. I haven't had much time this past week to really dig into it, but if possible, I may try and see if I can trace the wires back from the front door connector so that I can identify the proper wires I need. Once completed, I'll grab updated photos and try to clarify this step of the install for anyone else that may be interested in taking on this project. If anyone has this info already available and can save me the time, please bring me up to speed!

Edit: Jimmy07 is helping me work through this and he has ruled out several wires already. He has a few thoughts in mind that he is working to verify. Will update once resolved.
 
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