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Adding Passive Entry: How-to

Update on the driver’s side rear door. Massive shoutout to @Jimmy07! He was able to help guide me in the right direction. All four doors are now working and operational.

Resolution: So the wires that are needed to tap into are located under the plastic sill panel by the driver’s seat. Due to limited working space, I originally tried breaking into the harness just before that plastic cover. Well, the two wires needed to tap into run from under the driver’s seat and join the rest of the harness under that plastic cover. Therefore, neither wire I needed were located in the section of wiring I was originally working with.

In the photo below, you can see the section of wires coming from under the driver’s seat (just below my thumb) and you can see that it joins the other section of harness below the plastic sill cover. Note: Pay no attention to the four wires running on top of this harness. Those wires were from my blind spot monitoring retrofit with Jimmy’s harness, so you won’t have those on your truck unless you’ve added blind spot monitoring like I have.
19AA6359-6312-4C43-A630-DA48319BA88D.jpeg
This photo below shows the same thing as above, but I wanted to illustrate it more clearly. Do not attempt to tap into the wires back where I circled in red. You will not find what you’re looking for. The wires needed for this follow the path of the green arrow I included below.
651B2178-2A80-42B7-9B9F-D7E52AE3F092.jpeg

Pop the plastic sill cover off entirely. A small pick or flat blade screwdriver is all that is needed to release the tabs along the front and back piece of the plastic cover.

Once the cover was removed, I peeled back the tape from the harness in the section I have circled below in green. Use caution when cutting and peeling back the tape so that you do not damage any of the wires within the harness.
562507BC-F680-457C-858F-1A6271575410.jpeg
The green circle is just showing where I peeled the tape away, but you could certainly do this further down the run of wires if desired. Jimmy provides plenty of length on his harness to do so. I just chose to do it there because there is a little more room available to neatly place the wire taps in that plastic channel after the connections were made.

This photo is a close up section of the green circle I indicated above once I had peeled the tape away. The two wires needed can be found right near the top. Both have been indicated with the blue arrows below.
377286F8-87D6-4543-B7E3-1A7E5900A3C4.jpeg

Everything was tested after the connections were made and like I said above, passive entry is working perfectly now on all four of the doors. I hope this explanation helps provide clarity for the driver’s side rear and hope that it will save time for anyone else looking to add this to their truck.

Again massive massive thank you to @Jimmy07 for the help and follow up with this!
 
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Ive found a local shop that says they can give me passive entry without changing the handles using something from Directed Electronics. Anybody heard of a system NOT requiring changing out the handles? Cost is about $600.
 
Ive found a local shop that says they can give me passive entry without changing the handles using something from Directed Electronics. Anybody heard of a system NOT requiring changing out the handles? Cost is about $600.
I haven’t but very interested in this.
 
Ive found a local shop that says they can give me passive entry without changing the handles using something from Directed Electronics. Anybody heard of a system NOT requiring changing out the handles? Cost is about $600.
Most likely it is proximity system. When you get close to the vehicle, it unlocks automatically.
 
Yep better go with the factory style setup.. aftermarket setup your asking for a headache.


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I’ve done the directed one. They don’t typically destroy your electrical system when installed properly. I actually had it on my truck before switching to the oem one. I didn’t like it because every time you get near the truck it unlocks and then locks when you walk away, so when I’m outside it was constantly locking and unlocking. Plus it has a small key fob you have to carry for it to work. That was annoying to have to have along with your regular fob. I never had any issues with it, just prefer the oem one. BTW 600 is way too much for the directed one
 
Anyone in Central Florida willing to help with the programming?.....Winter Haven area?

I can do the hardware install ....just worried about the programming......
 
Anyone in Central Florida willing to help with the programming?.....Winter Haven area?

I can do the hardware install ....just worried about the programming......
Enabling the settings is the easy part! It is the actual install that likely scares most people away. But I'm just south of Orlando. Reach out when you're ready and we might be able to arrange something.
 
Yep better go with the factory style setup.. aftermarket setup your asking for a headache.


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I will say, OEM alternatives could be appealing for some. I have a BTS edition with the black textured handles. Adding PE OEM would mean 4 new handles (vs. just 2), paying to have them painted, having to install on rear doors + all the other parts and steps folks with normal painted handles need.

In the end it feels like a lot, only to not have a passive locking option which I miss from my old truck.
 
I will say, OEM alternatives could be appealing for some. I have a BTS edition with the black textured handles. Adding PE OEM would mean 4 new handles (vs. just 2), paying to have them painted, having to install on rear doors + all the other parts and steps folks with normal painted handles need.

In the end it feels like a lot, only to not have a passive locking option which I miss from my old truck.

You will only need 4 new handles if you're wanting the rear doors to have passive entry in addition to the front doors - an option that is not available from the factory. Doing just the front doors like the factory setup will lessen your pain by half.

Bob
 
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A big Thank You to MayhemMOORE (and I am sure others added info)for all the had work he put into the installation of Passive Entry.....Completed the job today and it works!! Thanks!
 
Hi All,

New Ram owner here! Just curious if anyone has done this to 2023 1500? Is the wiring/how to the same?

Very appreciative of all of the effort that has been put in to figuring this out!
 
Hi All,

New Ram owner here! Just curious if anyone has done this to 2023 1500? Is the wiring/how to the same?

Very appreciative of all of the effort that has been put in to figuring this out!
MayhemMOORE.......send him a message I am sure he would know.
 
Ive found a local shop that says they can give me passive entry without changing the handles using something from Directed Electronics. Anybody heard of a system NOT requiring changing out the handles? Cost is about $600.
I've had this installed for about a week and, have to say, I don't understand the hate. It works exactly like the OEM. I had the auto lock feature disabled so it only unlocks when we get near either front doors. Yes, I got ripped a new one (a little over $600) considering the parts are around $100 on Amazon (when available), but it sounds like its comparable to the other system you guys have done AND I didn't have to spend two saturdays ripping apart my truck OR reprogramming crap which scares my a bit. Unless something changes, I am liking my choice.
 
@MayhemMOORE

There is a mistake in one of your part numbers, Ivory white (without chrome) 5th gen body color door handle should be :

6CV64JWDAD​

Not the number 6CV64KGZAD that it is currently listed as.
Glad I caught this before they came in 😅 (the color code seems to be the "JWD" and "KGZ", with KGZ being green).

Thanks for putting this all together!
 
I have a 2021 Ram Built to serve edition in Tank Green. What handles should I use?
 
I have a 2021 Ram Built to serve edition in Tank Green. What handles should I use?
Mine is a BTS firefighters edition and I did Brilliant Black Pearlcoat and they look amazing

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