Add 1” to Mopar 2” Lift

[Ram1992]

You may have control arm issues. I would definitely do the ORP springs before a 2" block on top

Do you think if I purchase RL control arms I’ll be okay? I already have the 2” top hat spacer so that’s why I’m trying to reuse it.
The mopar spring spacers are in back order till April.

 

[Alxmlr789]

Do you think if I purchase RL control arms I’ll be okay? I already have the 2” top hat spacer so that’s why I’m trying to reuse it.
The mopar spring spacers are in back order till April.

I'm not sure. Before i bought my mopar lift, i had the ready lift 2" kit going in. (I have a lift at my house so i did the install myself). I actually removed the readylift halfway through the install because the spring was physically making contact with the knuckle due to the angle that the RL control arm provided. I thought i installed the control arm backwards it was that bad. I called ready lift, they said "our kits are not really designed to be used off road, so a little contact at full droop is ok, you'll never be at full droop anyways." I found this alarming, and very abnormal, so i took it off and ordered the mopar kit.

I would check around the web for those mopar spacers. If you type the part number into google, there are a few mopar shops that say "in stock".

 

[jwiley386]

Truck really looks good. How is the ride with the lift and 22’s? Did you use any wheel spacers?

Negative, everything except for the Borla Exhaust is stock or aftermarket Mopar. The 22's are factory and did not require a spacer to fit the 35x12.50 tire

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Negative, everything except for the Borla Exhaust is stock or aftermarket Mopar. The 22's are factory and did not require a spacer to fit the 35x12.50 tire

I am debating between Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 35x12.5x20, which I am not sure because I’ve read that 12.5 will rub the UCA or be very close. So it kind of scares me off because ultimately that is the tire I want. So my other choice is to switch tire brand and go with the Nitto Ridge Grappler 35x11.5x20 which are still a nice looking and greatly rated tire like the Duratrac. I just hear they are not as good in the snow as the Duratracs. I don’t even know if they are snow rated or not, I don’t think so. Either way Ontario hasn’t been getting as bad of snowfalls that I would be worried about especially when I used to drive around my old truck with 38.5x13.5x20 Open Country M/T and couldn’t be as bad as these Duellers H/T I have on it now. They just pack the snow and the snow sticks to them and coats them with snow, so it looks like my tires are made of snow.

So what’s the deal... Why are some people fine with 12.5s and some are not able to run them and rub the UCA?

11.5 is probably fine for my anyhow, better in the snow as it’s not as wide and better on fuel. I like my factory rims so I am keeping them and having them powdered coated Satan black and then the tires will be mounted by the same company powder coating them rims.

 

[Rollint]

I am debating between Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 35x12.5x20, which I am not sure because I’ve read that 12.5 will rub the UCA or be very close. So it kind of scares me off because ultimately that is the tire I want. So my other choice is to switch tire brand and go with the Nitto Ridge Grappler 35x11.5x20 which are still a nice looking and greatly rated tire like the Duratrac. I just hear they are not as good in the snow as the Duratracs.

This experience will vary depending on where you are driving and the type of snow that usually falls. The tires I had in Colorado that were amazing in the snow sucked in the Sierra nevada range because the snow in the Sierra is so wet/heavy and the tires couldn't handle it, but they did great Colorado where the snow is light and dry

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

This experience will vary depending on where you are driving and the type of snow that usually falls. The tires I had in Colorado that were amazing in the snow sucked in the Sierra nevada range because the snow in the Sierra is so wet/heavy and the tires couldn't handle it, but they did great Colorado where the snow is light and dry

We don't get as much snow fall in Ontario anymore and most of the time it's not wet snow, but it's not fluffy dry kind of snow either. My Toyo MT did pretty decent in the snow considering there were 38.5

Anyhow doesn't matter anymore as I just dropped the money on the Ridge Grappler. I didn't want to change my rims from factory as I like them. Didn't really want to run spacers either. So the RG was the only one I could get in the size I wanted, 35x11.5x20.

 

[BiGJZ74]

We don't get as much snow fall in Ontario anymore and most of the time it's not wet snow, but it's not fluffy dry kind of snow either. My Toyo MT did pretty decent in the snow considering there were 38.5

Anyhow doesn't matter anymore as I just dropped the money on the Ridge Grappler. I didn't want to change my rims from factory as I like them. Didn't really want to run spacers either. So the RG was the only one I could get in the size I wanted, 35x11.5x20.

Did you finally decide yet? Going Mopar?

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Did you finally decide yet? Going Mopar?

Yes after much contemplation (which is normal for me) I decided to go with the Mopar kit with ORP. I appreciate all the information I gathered from the various topics (especially the 51 page thread) and private messages, it helped me make a decision. I appreciated all the detailed information you helped me out with as well on private message. I like this board, people seem to always be willing to help out and take the time to respond. I know some of my messages were long lol....

I got a really good price at my local dealer (where I purchased my truck) that was a little less than the ReadyLift/5100/5160. I will be happy with the lift because it will give the same amount of lift and retain warranty which is a HUGE plus for me since I did buy the extended warranty.

Do you not have rubbing issues with the 35x12.5x20 on the factory rims? I was going to go with the 12.5 Duratracs but read so many people who are rubbing the UCA. So I went with the Ridge Grapplers so that I could get 35x11.5 on my factory 20" sport rims. I don't want spacers, but if you're not rubbing then I may change them to Duratrac 35x12.5 or Ridge Grappler 35x12.5. I already bought the tires, but I am sure the shop would be ok switching them out (won't be installed until August once I get the lift on). Maybe 11.5 will be better anyhow for the snow.

I may or may not change the UCA to the ReadyLift's down the road, but for now it seems like most people are ok with the Mopar/ORP angles on the ball-joint. If I do get them, it will drive the price up over the RL but I'm ok with that. If I have ball joint issues, I will send the truck for warranty, if they decline to fix then I will order the RL for sure or if I am lucky and they warranty it then I will keep on trucking!!

 

[BiGJZ74]

Do you not have rubbing issues with the 35x12.5x20 on the factory rims? I was going to go with the 12.5 Duratracs but read so many people who are rubbing the UCA. So I went with the Ridge Grapplers so that I could get 35x11.5 on my factory 20" sport rims. I don't want spacers, but if your not rubbing then I may change them to Duratrac 35x12.5 or Ridge Grappler 35x12.5. I already bought the tires, but they are not used and I am sure the shop would be ok switching them out. Maybe 11.5 will be better anyhow for the snow.

Good choice on the Mopar, can't go wrong with it. As for warranty, RL covers their stuff and my Geico Mechanical Breakdown Insurance covers anything my extended warranty doesn't cover so I am good to go on that front.

As for tires, Keep the 11.5's, I added a .25" spacer to the front to clear the aggressive side lugs on the RG 35x12.5's. I am gonna go with 11.5's or 295/65's next time around...

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Good choice on the Mopar, can't go wrong with it. As for warranty, RL covers their stuff and my Geico Mechanical Breakdown Insurance covers anything my extended warranty doesn't cover so I am good to go on that front.

As for tires, Keep the 11.5's, I added a .25" spacer to the front to clear the aggressive side lugs on the RG 35x12.5's. I am gonna go with 11.5's or 295/65's next time around...

Yeah I know RL warranties there stuff, but I was thinking more along the lines of factory related breakdowns. Like U-joints, Ball Joints, CV axle etc. and even worse if the something goes wrong with the drive shaft or motor I don't want problems. I don't anticipate anything happening, but the moment you think that bam!! it happens. It's more piece of mind for me then anything. You're good you have 3rd party warranty, but I would still be a little weary of them saying anything against non-oem modifications. At the end of the day whatever works for each individual is the most important aspect. Both kits are great, so like you told me before you can't go wrong with either and I agree on that. Once my warranty is up (be it because I am at my mileage or date) I may think about upgrading to a 4" BDS lift but I don't know I only hit pavement so I don't think there is a really advantage for me.

I will take your advice, and stick with the 11.5. I think it will be better on fuel and snow as it's not so wide. I know you don't need to worry about snow haha.

 

[BiGJZ74]

Yeah I know RL warranties there stuff, but I was thinking more along the lines of factory related breakdowns. Like U-joints, Ball Joints, CV axle etc. and even worse if the something goes wrong with the drive shaft or motor I don't want problems. I don't anticipate anything happening, but the moment you think that bam!! it happens. It's more piece of mind for me then anything. You're good you have 3rd party warranty, but I would still be a little weary of them saying anything against non-oem modifications. At the end of the day whatever works for each individual is the most important aspect. Both kits are great, so like you told me before you can't go wrong with either and I agree on that. Once my warranty is up (be it because I am at my mileage or date) I may think about upgrading to a 4" BDS lift but I don't know I only hit pavement so I don't think there is a really advantage for me.

I will take your advice, and stick with the 11.5. I think it will be better on fuel and snow as it's not so wide. I know you don't need to worry about snow haha.

I dont have 3rd party warranty, it's Mech. Breakdown insurance (MBI) that's a part of my Geico car insurance that pays for breakdowns just like my warranty...Mod's and all, just have to notify them of the mods.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

I dont have 3rd party warranty, it's Mech. Breakdown insurance (MBI) that's a part of my Geico car insurance that pays for breakdowns just like my warranty...Mod's and all, just have to notify them of the mods.

Nice, I thought it was some Geico 3rd party warranty. That is awesome it's part of your insurance.

 

[Ramrod3.0]

Would the mopar kit fit the diesel engine. I noticed it says 5.7 hemi. I would assume it would since the suspension appears to to the same. I have the orp package, and will be buying the rl UCA's.

Side note: I spoke to RL rep, and they recommended removing preload spacer if you have orp with 3.5 sst kit, for anyone running that package.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

Would the mopar kit fit the diesel engine. I noticed it says 5.7 hemi. I would assume it would since the suspension appears to to the same. I have the orp package, and will be buying the rl UCA's.

Side note: I spoke to RL rep, and they recommended removing preload spacer if you have orp with 3.5 sst kit, for anyone running that package.

I would assume the Mopar kit will work as the suspension is the same I believe. The kit also says it doesn’t work on them extended cab, only crew cab but members here have installed it on the extended cabs. Not sure if anyone did it on the diesel.

As for the preload space on the RL, you don’t use it if you have the ORP package because it would lift your truck 4.5” in the front and would be to high. Your CV angles would be bad.

Now with the ORP package and Mopar kit you will be fine as it will give you 3.5” at front which is like the max on the upgrade UCA’s. Would would be getting the RL UCA’s so you UCA angles would be at a better angle than the Mopar UCAs in the lift kit.

*note* if you do the Mopar kit with your ORP package your truck will not sit level. You’ll need to as another 1/2” or 1” spacer for the rear or change your rear springs to the non-ORP ones to sit level.

I just installed my kit and ordered ORP springs, I am just keeping the Mopar UCAs in the kit for now. I may get the RL UCAs down the road but I want the Vararam and Hellwig sway bar first.

 

[Ramrod3.0]

Thanks for the info, I'm going through with the purchase. Heard good things about the quality of the mopar lift.

The hellwig sway bar might be a future upgrade, I'm going to see how the lift goes first. Good luck on all your future add ins, Ram really did good with the 5th gens.

 

[troymi]

Can anyone out there talk about the 2020 Ecodiesel with Mopar 2" lift? Or other? Does the Mopar work? Use a level with it also? Or just do a front level?

Other thought is change the front end to Bilstein 5100 or Fox coilover?

Appreciate any input. Just got the diesel and want a solution.

 

[Andy9743]

@19BlueStreakSport am i understanding this correctly...the moapr 2" plus the orp springs will get me around 3" in the front on a non orp truck (19 larmie) ? Hoping to run a 35 on a method 18. Zeroish offset.

I like the height of the 3.5 readylift but 1000% prefer the full lifted strut approach.

Thanks

 

[Jsyjud]

@19BlueStreakSport am i understanding this correctly...the moapr 2" plus the orp springs will get me around 3" in the front on a non orp truck (19 larmie) ? Hoping to run a 35 on a method 18. Zeroish offset.

I like the height of the 3.5 readylift but 1000% prefer the full lifted strut approach.

Thanks

Yes you will get 1 inch + 2 more with the lift for 3 total. Here is mine with factory off road package with a 34.5" tall tire. Could easily fit a 35 x 11.50. I think a 35x12.50 might be a little tight.

 

[19BlueStreakSport]

@19BlueStreakSport am i understanding this correctly...the moapr 2" plus the orp springs will get me around 3" in the front on a non orp truck (19 larmie) ? Hoping to run a 35 on a method 18. Zeroish offset.

I like the height of the 3.5 readylift but 1000% prefer the full lifted strut approach.

Thanks

That is correct, the truck will be pretty level within 1/2" but varies between models.

I have 35x11.5 on my truck (Nitto RG), was going to go 12.5 but I would have needed spacers or different offset rims. I like the factory rims. 12.5 wide will put you too close to the upper tie rod and ball joint without a spacer.

 

[Alxmlr789]

Added ORP springs this weekend. Sits about 1” high in the rear which is perfect.