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Active Grill Shutter Removal

I wonder how these guys are claiming no CEL with the motor zip tied to a bracket. Gonna call BS on that. Lol
I've seen guys do that and have no CEL for a day or two, then it come on. I think that's what happened to me, it didn't come on right away but it did after a little driving.

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Their is a bracket kit you bolt to the motor to limit the arm travel then you just zip tie the motor somewhere no shutters needed
 
Their is a bracket kit you bolt to the motor to limit the arm travel then you just zip tie the motor somewhere no shutters needed
When I removed mine, there wasn't one for the 5th gen yet, I'm still not sure if there is. The 5th gen is a different design than the 4th gen. There is no arm.

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Yes, the proper way is to create a stopper for the normal stop range on the active grill shutter motor, then yes you can mount it anywhere. Did this in my 15 ecodiesel, and a year and a half bit one code.
 
I have a question & hope someone can help. I have a 2020 big horn 1500. I’m a rural mail carrier. I took my truck in several months ago for something & they told me my grill shutter was broken. They said it was a plastic “flap” that runs along the bottom in the front. The service guy said it was just for aerodynamics so wasn’t all that important other than with the cel light on I may not know if I have a more serious issue. I’d like to fix it or just remove it if that’s all it’s for & if that’s possible. After reading some of the posts here removal doesn’t really sound possible. Can anyone tell me what this is actually for? I had a Jeep prior to this so I’ve never heard of this. Is it possible to remove it with no problems or cel? If so can you guide me to a video? Also, being such a new truck parts are hard to find are the 2019 or earlier parts the same? Thanks for any advice.
 
It improves airflow around the front of the truck truck for better highway mpg.

Vehicles have had these for a few years now.


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I have a question & hope someone can help. I have a 2020 big horn 1500. I’m a rural mail carrier. I took my truck in several months ago for something & they told me my grill shutter was broken. They said it was a plastic “flap” that runs along the bottom in the front. The service guy said it was just for aerodynamics so wasn’t all that important other than with the cel light on I may not know if I have a more serious issue. I’d like to fix it or just remove it if that’s all it’s for & if that’s possible. After reading some of the posts here removal doesn’t really sound possible. Can anyone tell me what this is actually for? I had a Jeep prior to this so I’ve never heard of this. Is it possible to remove it with no problems or cel? If so can you guide me to a video? Also, being such a new truck parts are hard to find are the 2019 or earlier parts the same? Thanks for any advice.
You seem to indicate the lower air dam, which there are different threads on here detailing it's removal. I believe it can be unplugged with no CEL, but check the other threads to be sure.
 
Old-ish thread but I thought I would chime in. I bought a 19 5th gen with 82k on the clock. When on the highway the trans temp would go up to 240 after about 20 minutes of highway cruising and start whining under load. Brought it back to the dealer and they replaced the "heater"... which I believe to be a heat exchanger that uses engine coolant to warm the trans. That dropped it to about 228/230 but still whining under load. Brought it back to the dealer and they sat on it for another two weeks and basically said they acknowledge the problem but there is nothing we can do as we can find no damage to the trans. Again this only happens on the highway, exactly where the AGS kicks in. SO... I pulled some AGS flaps. Problem solved. Considering I got 12mpg on my last 2600ish mile trip, I'm not too concerned with any efficiency loss.
 
I don't see how this can possibly lower your engine temps while towing? These trucks are designed to live between two temps, somewhere around 93 C to 108 C. When your truck is colder than 93, flaps are closed. When your truck is hotter than 108, flaps are always open. So if you're pulling a trailer and heating up past 108, then removing the slats (which are already open + the thermostat) is not going to help. (That's assuming everything is working as designed and nothing is wrong with the system).

I do agree that we have a heating issue though, I've experienced 120 while towing up some smaller hills (compared to mountains) so maybe a bigger oil cooler can help.
 
I have had my active shutters deleted for almost 2 years trouble free.
 
There is a trans stat delete out there. I use it my trans temps are much more comfortable to me now.
 
How did you do that? Is it completely removed or did you just leave the top and bottom shutter like everyone else?
Completely removed. I removed the motor from the assembly, plugged it back in and zip tied it out of the way behind the grille. The motor has to stay plugged in to avoid a check engine light.
 
Completely removed. I removed the motor from the assembly, plugged it back in and zip tied it out of the way behind the grille. The motor has to stay plugged in to avoid a check engine light.
Completely removed. I removed the motor from the assembly, plugged it back in and zip tied it out of the way behind the grille. The motor has to stay plugged in to avoid a check engine light.
That’s strange. I’ve seen several posts of people who’ve done it and got a CEL and one way they didn’t was to leave the top and bottom shutter still on so the motor can cycle. Also 4th gen rams needed a special kit to be able to remove the shutters. Your Greene tune has nothing to do with the shutters not throwing a CEL?
 
That’s strange. I’ve seen several posts of people who’ve done it and got a CEL and one way they didn’t was to leave the top and bottom shutter still on so the motor can cycle. Also 4th gen rams needed a special kit to be able to remove the shutters. Your Greene tune has nothing to do with the shutters not throwing a CEL?
My tune has nothing to do with it as I removed them after my tuning
 
I recently removed mine on a 2020 1500 big horn bts and was prepared to fabricate a bracket to trick the motor. When I got into the motor for the ags is completely different than the earlier versions. No arm to trick or check positioning. It’s a straight through hole that the shutters go into and the “bearing” turns which in turn, turns the shutters. It automatically has its own limit check. Removed shutter assembly and tied up motor out of way. Check engine light hasn’t come on and it’s been over a month.
 
That’s strange. I’ve seen several posts of people who’ve done it and got a CEL and one way they didn’t was to leave the top and bottom shutter still on so the motor can cycle. Also 4th gen rams needed a special kit to be able to remove the shutters. Your Greene tune has nothing to do with the shutters not throwing a CEL?
You didn't need a special kit to remove the shutters on a 4th gen. you just left the upper and lower shutter intact where the motor could still experience the full range of motion. I did it. I think I ended up with at least 7 slats off.
 
You didn't need a special kit to remove the shutters on a 4th gen. you just left the upper and lower shutter intact where the motor could still experience the full range of motion. I did it. I think I ended up with at least 7 slats off.
Yeah sorry not to remove the shutters. I meant the kit was for the motor that operated the shutters if you were to remove them completely.
 

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