Just looking for a little insight since I may have to go this route for mine, did they make you get the EXACT same truck, or were you able to make minor changes?
I'm in Florida so I'm only familiar with the laws in this state. Additionally, I am not a lawyer and heed all of the other standard disclaimers. This is my personal experience, so your mileage may vary.
In Florida, there are several routes you can take.
1) Hire a lawyer to work a Magnusson-Moss Act case on your behalf. In this scenario, the lawyer is paid by the manufacturer, and you are normally out of pocket $0 whether you win or lose. Normally, you'll keep the vehicle, get it repaired, and win a small sum for your trouble.
2) Hire a lawyer to work a state Lemon-Law case on your behalf. Normally, this would cost you out of pocket, or the lawyer may take a portion of the winnings.
3) Do it yourself. Florida's laws are clear, and they have a great Attorney General's Office legal staff that help you by answering questions.
I took route #3. I filed the paperwork myself after the 3rd repair attempt. The manufacturer had 10 calendar days to respond with a desire to seek a 4th and final repair attempt. They missed the deadline by 2 days, and I held them to it, so there was no 4th and final repair attempt. At that point, FCA offered a replacement instead of having me continue with the Lemon Law claim. From what I can tell, it is better if they avoid going to a hearing, because if they lose and are required to exchange or buy back the vehicle, the title will be marked as such - hurting the resale value. If they avoid the hearing and a negative outcome, they can fix the problems and resell the vehicle as used.
They use some formulas to work the numbers, but as I understand it, it's usually MSRP for MSRP. That doesn't mean you have to get the exact same vehicle - or even the same manufacturer (Dodge or Jeep vs Ram, for instance), but any amount over the original MSRP is out of your pocket, plus the tax difference. In my case, any amount under (up to $2000) was refundable. In Florida, you'll lose a usage fee, which is calculated by state guidelines. You'll recoup any expenses or additions to the vehicle that you have receipts for and can provide to them, including things like LineX, seat covers, mufflers, etc. Any warranties can be carried over, or refunded to the loan.
In the end, the formula looks something like this:
New MSRP - Old MSRP = MSRP Liability
MSRP Liability * Tax Rate = Tax Liability
Loan Payoff + Usage Fee + MSRP Liability + Tax Liability - Accessory Credits = Final Cost to you for financing.
If the MSRP is the same, or you pay down the new vehicle, the loan agent may just substitute the new VIN for the old VIN in what's called a substitution of collateral. As I understand it, this doesn't require a new loan or another hit on your credit.
If your MSRP is not the same, or if you do not pay down the new vehicle, you will likely be required to take out a new loan for the new vehicle.
In my particular case, I custom built a new vehicle that was about $8,000 more than my old MSRP. This was offset by the credits and warranties I cancelled. I only had around 3,000 miles when all this occurred. If you have many more miles, you may not make out the same way. The key to all of this is: know your state laws.
Good luck if you decide to pursue this option. It will definitely take a while from start to finish.
