AC - does anyone have a truck that blows ice cold?

[Flot]

Riccnick, now go clamp off your heater core line (which takes about 2 minutes) and then drive around in your truck for 10 minutes and tell us if the A/C feels any different.

I absolutely agree with scientific measurements of the temps etc. However, I can tell you that of the 3 cars in my driveway, and the dozen I’ve owned in the last 20 years, only one hasn’t cooled acceptably. I don’t think it is my job to debug Ram’s issues here (and I took it to the dealer at one month of ownership) but I will if I have to.

I also of course agree that some amount of temperature bleed must be expected and designed for in these air boxes. However, for all of those who are complaining that seem to have such a rapid fix by blocking off the heater core, something must be wrong. I also have some concerns that while the factory test procedure is end-to-end, it may not adequately catch this kind of issue.

PS: I pulled out my glove box lid and air filter once before and I don’t recall seeing the blend door, only the recirc door, but I’ll revisit next weekend. What I’d really like to know is where I can snake an inspection camera in.

 

[Billy James]

Riccnick, now go clamp off your heater core line (which takes about 2 minutes) and then drive around in your truck for 10 minutes and tell us if the A/C feels any different.

I absolutely agree with scientific measurements of the temps etc. However, I can tell you that of the 3 cars in my driveway, and the dozen I’ve owned in the last 20 years, only one hasn’t cooled acceptably. I don’t think it is my job to debug Ram’s issues here (and I took it to the dealer at one month of ownership) but I will if I have to.

I also of course agree that some amount of temperature bleed must be expected and designed for in these air boxes. However, for all of those who are complaining that seem to have such a rapid fix by blocking off the heater core, something must be wrong. I also have some concerns that while the factory test procedure is end-to-end, it may not adequately catch this kind of issue.

PS: I pulled out my glove box lid and air filter once before and I don’t recall seeing the blend door, only the recirc door, but I’ll revisit next weekend. What I’d really like to know is where I can snake an inspection camera in.

If its like the old trucks, you would need to get to the top of the airbox about where the driver's middle vent is. This would probably require a lot of dash disassembly. The actual blend door (flap between heater core and A/C section from the condenser) would be to your right a bit; but there should be some access through either your A/C outlet or the top of the box. You may even be able to just snake through the drivers right vent towards your right. The blend door should be slightly to the right of the vent just about where your air conditioning controls are.

 

[riccnick]

Riccnick, now go clamp off your heater core line (which takes about 2 minutes) and then drive around in your truck for 10 minutes and tell us if the A/C feels any different.

I absolutely agree with scientific measurements of the temps etc. However, I can tell you that of the 3 cars in my driveway, and the dozen I’ve owned in the last 20 years, only one hasn’t cooled acceptably. I don’t think it is my job to debug Ram’s issues here (and I took it to the dealer at one month of ownership) but I will if I have to.

I also of course agree that some amount of temperature bleed must be expected and designed for in these air boxes. However, for all of those who are complaining that seem to have such a rapid fix by blocking off the heater core, something must be wrong. I also have some concerns that while the factory test procedure is end-to-end, it may not adequately catch this kind of issue.

PS: I pulled out my glove box lid and air filter once before and I don’t recall seeing the blend door, only the recirc door, but I’ll revisit next weekend. What I’d really like to know is where I can snake an inspection camera in.

I'm not disputing that the air isn't the coldest air I've ever felt, and I'm also not saying it won't get colder if I block the heater core lines, I understand the principles of it. To me, I got good numbers (in the upper 40's after 15 min) which is near the low (good) side of the results on the chart, allowable was 55 degrees for my feels like temp category. My point is, there's nothing "wrong" with mine, whether I want more performance out of it or not. Modding the truck for better A/C performance is a completely different approach than saying there's a problem with the A/C performance, which this and the other threads (at least originally) were about. Modding for the sake of modding is cool in my book, and I absolutely partake in it with my own personal vehicles, not arguing that at all either, just pointing out that the reason behind it has to be personal, not due to a manufacturing defect. (And once again, this context is all based off MY results, there very well could be others that don't operate properly even when following the A/C Performance Test procedure properly)

Check out my post above the test, getting to see (one of) the blend door actuator is as easy as three clips and does not require removing the glove box door at all.

 

[Wlgtv]

Yup. I was totally disappointed this week when it was a blazing 32c here. 30 minutie drive home and max AC with blower on max and I think it would have been cooled with the windows open. I guess the first visit back the the dealer is gonna happen sooner than I thought

 

[sticker500]

I'm not disputing that the air isn't the coldest air I've ever felt, and I'm also not saying it won't get colder if I block the heater core lines, I understand the principles of it. To me, I got good numbers (in the upper 40's after 15 min) which is near the low (good) side of the results on the chart, allowable was 55 degrees for my feels like temp category. My point is, there's nothing "wrong" with mine, whether I want more performance out of it or not. Modding the truck for better A/C performance is a completely different approach than saying there's a problem with the A/C performance, which this and the other threads (at least originally) were about. Modding for the sake of modding is cool in my book, and I absolutely partake in it with my own personal vehicles, not arguing that at all either, just pointing out that the reason behind it has to be personal, not due to a manufacturing defect. (And once again, this context is all based off MY results, there very well could be others that don't operate properly even when following the A/C Performance Test procedure properly)

Check out my post above the test, getting to see (one of) the blend door actuator is as easy as three clips and does not require removing the glove box door at all.

I have pretty much stated the same thing, it's a crap design but one that meets printed specs. As long as they can meet specs that they wrote there is nothing for FCA to issue a TSB about. What we can do as owners is voice the concern, spread the word and NOT recommend the vehicle based on A/C that does not perform as well as competitors.

This happened to me in a 2013 F-150 Platinum, and in 2016 when I bought a new one the design was improved and was night and day difference.

 

[psyberai]

Loving these posts. Here is my contribution.
I felt like the AC was not functioning properly...the air stayed too warm for my taste and still felt a bit humid, so I took it in. Techs say it was a malfunctioning temperature sensor. Solution was to replace.
When the part came in, I vomited every bit of the forum armchair theories and solutions I could remember. He nodded his head and said they are aware of all of that. I was like Roger that!...do your thing then maestro.
Long story short, they were a friendly and seemingly competent lot, but this did not improve much based on my "feels". I agree with riccnick in that their tests have verified that my system is operating as designed, however, the 52 degree vent temps at 80 degree outside temp, and, my comfort level invalidates this design as working well for this user.

I'll be clamping this puppy for my own comfort.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[smiles5619]

I felt my new Ram wasn't pumping AC like my 2013 did. Someone on here said to try the Auto selection. I put my temp to 16 and hit Auto, BAM, IT WORKED! Give it a try as my AC is ice cold using the auto selection.

 

[sticker500]

I felt my new Ram wasn't pumping AC like my 2013 did. Someone on here said to try the Auto selection. I put my temp to 16 and hit Auto, BAM, IT WORKED! Give it a try as my AC is ice cold using the auto selection.

"16" ?

 

[smiles5619]

"16" ?

Sorry, I'm Canadian so that is in celsius.

 

[sticker500]

Sorry, I'm Canadian so that is in celsius.

HA, no reason to apologize. I should have paid more attention. Auto doesn't cut it for me.

 

[psyberai]

HA, no reason to apologize. I should have paid more attention. Auto doesn't cut it for me.

Unfortunately, it didn't work for me either, but I am glad that it works for someone.

 

[James1414d]

I went in for recalls and had them check the AC too. They said it was blowing 45, which is B.S.

I brought it into my work to check it over. Found the refrigerant low. It had 350g, spec is 510g. Dont know if it's everybodys issue, but mine is now consistently cooler.

 

[greatone99]

2019 nov 18 built rebel mine blows ice cold air .

 

[duke2001]

I went in for recalls and had them check the AC too. They said it was blowing 45, which is B.S.

I brought it into my work to check it over. Found the refrigerant low. It had 350g, spec is 510g. Dont know if it's everybodys issue, but mine is now consistently cooler.View attachment 28102View attachment 28103View attachment 28104

So you are saying your dealer lied to you, you then checked the system yourself and put in the correct amount of refrigerant. Now your system is operating correctly? Is that right? And you don’t have a “blend door” issue? Why would you not call out your dealer if they lied to you? You should file a complaint with BBB, at least?

 

[Rototerrier]

... Guess that must be 32 degrees or below. Sure wish mine blew ice cold. Best I still get is 50 without the clamp and 44 when clamped. Would love to know how to get to ice cold. Going to take mine in soon to get pressures checked. Going to tell them some folks in the forum get ice cold air, hopefully they'll know what temperature that equates to and get mine down to match.

Mine does seem to work fine unless the truck is heat soaked before I fire it up. It can never recover and stays hot while the sun is still out. I did a 10 hour road trip and it stayed perfectly comfortable at low fan speeds for the entire trip, not clamped, which started in the early cool morning.

My biggest issue is still that it just can't cool down the truck when it starts hot. Unfortunately it's not garage kept, so it quite often starts out heat soaked when I get in it.

 

[James1414d]

So you are saying your dealer lied to you, you then checked the system yourself and put in the correct amount of refrigerant. Now your system is operating correctly? Is that right? And you don’t have a “blend door” issue? Why would you not call out your dealer if they lied to you? You should file a complaint with BBB, at least?

Whatever, it works now.

It went to a lazy technician is my guess.

 

[sticker500]

I went in for recalls and had them check the AC too. They said it was blowing 45, which is B.S.

I brought it into my work to check it over. Found the refrigerant low. It had 350g, spec is 510g. Dont know if it's everybodys issue, but mine is now consistently cooler.View attachment 28102View attachment 28103View attachment 28104

Be interesting to see what if you can achieve these temps when it’s 90+ outside.

 

[jdmartin]

It always seemed to me, in the many vehicles that I’ve owned, that Max AC is nothing more than the system going down to it’s lowest temp setting and the fan going up to its highest setting. i.e. no real change in the temp.

Max AC in a computerized system should be source on recirculate, AC temp at lowest and fan at highest. If you have old fashioned levers and knobs it generally only means air source is recirculate.

Also, the temperature from the dash should decrease if you have ac on recirculate. If you have it on fresh air you will have more or less the same temperature all the time and be working harder to remove the humidity from the incoming air. Imagine if your home AC system worked that way!

 

[greatone99]

Max AC in a computerized system should be source on recirculate, AC temp at lowest and fan at highest. If you have old fashioned levers and knobs it generally only means air source is recirculate.

Also, the temperature from the dash should decrease if you have ac on recirculate. If you have it on fresh air you will have more or less the same temperature all the time and be working harder to remove the humidity from the incoming air. Imagine if your home AC system worked that way!

exactly and a lower fan speed will give u a colder coil ,colder air

 

[BeauxXL1200]

I went in for recalls and had them check the AC too. They said it was blowing 45, which is B.S.

I brought it into my work to check it over. Found the refrigerant low. It had 350g, spec is 510g. Dont know if it's everybodys issue, but mine is now consistently cooler.View attachment 28102View attachment 28103View attachment 28104

I’m gonna take mine to an auto AC shop and have them check the refrigerant level. I’ve got my “out” hose clamped off and I’m getting 45 degrees out to the middle, drivers side vent. So that’s tolerable in this Texas heat, but if it’s low on refrigerant, I’d like to get it topped off to see that helps.