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AC - does anyone have a truck that blows ice cold?

I am definitely in the category of "yeah, I think there is a design problem but I am just living with it". Definite doesn't seem to cut it at times in this Alabama heat and humidity.
Let's hope they get the TSB soon. I'm with you, I am just waiting for it.
Despite having come from an F150 and it's now 4 years and Ford has never fixed the cooled seat issue, I believe that RAM has the incentive to make things right (remember the old car rental ad, "Avis, we try harder") as opposed to Ford sitting on their laurels.
When you are far and away the truck sales leader for 50+ years, management can and seems to have developed an attitude of not really caring.
 
Let's hope they get the TSB soon. I'm with you, I am just waiting for it.
Despite having come from an F150 and it's now 4 years and Ford has never fixed the cooled seat issue, I believe that RAM has the incentive to make things right (remember the old car rental ad, "Avis, we try harder") as opposed to Ford sitting on their laurels.
When you are far and away the truck sales leader for 50+ years, management can and seems to have developed an attitude of not really caring.

I agree totally on RAM needing to get this right. I cannot tell you how much crap I take from people who think "Dodge" is junk, and then they say "Fiat". This is an opportunity for RAM to really have a chance at retention/loyalty.
 
When I park my truck in the sun during the day, I use my windshield shade from Covercraft. It definitely helps keep the temp down, so start up recovery is quicker.

I think that is probably making a huge difference. I'm going to get some ceramic tent soon, maybe a sun shade too.
 
It’s hot again in Houston and my truck is in the shop to look over a/c. It is black on black Which doesn’t help but every vehicle my wife owns has been black and never any issues. It just doesn’t consistently push cold air from the vents, it was so bad last weekend (which was a scorcher) my wife refused to ride in it. The tech pulled a code when I dropped off and it indicated overheated blower. I’m hoping maybe a little light on refrigerant, will see. Tech said lots of a/c performance complaints on this model. Hoping for a solution.
 
It’s hot again in Houston and my truck is in the shop to look over a/c. It is black on black Which doesn’t help but every vehicle my wife owns has been black and never any issues. It just doesn’t consistently push cold air from the vents, it was so bad last weekend (which was a scorcher) my wife refused to ride in it. The tech pulled a code when I dropped off and it indicated overheated blower. I’m hoping maybe a little light on refrigerant, will see. Tech said lots of a/c performance complaints on this model. Hoping for a solution.
Here is a work around for now. Do at your own risk. Do not cut factory hoses so you can remove without a trace. You are (probably) currently getting 58-60 degree air from drivers center vent and 46-50 from passenger center vent. After reducing coolant flow, you will get (probably) 46-48 degree air out of both of those vents. Some members just buy Harbor Freight hose clamps (tool that squeezes hose without sharp edges) or a single coolant valve added to "out" hose from water pump (hooked to black metal tube and printed "out" on hose itself). Attached is my plan for complete control. Have not installed yet but it absolutely will work.IMG_3083.jpg
 
Y'all got me curious, so I just tested mine. Ambient temp = 86.8, in-truck temp before starting = 89.1
30 seconds after starting, with temps set to LO, max fan, and recirc on, these are the temps I see for each vent (left to right):
61.7, 54.2, 51.7, 56.0
after 2 minutes:
51.0, 52.5, 49.4, 54.4
after 4 minutes:
50.7, 52.7, 48.3, 49.6

This is "in spec" from the FCA test procedure, and I have no complaints. In normal use, I always just set it to Auto with the temps at 68 driver / 70 passenger, and it seems to do a fine job even with ambient over 100 degrees.
 
Y'all got me curious, so I just tested mine. Ambient temp = 86.8, in-truck temp before starting = 89.1
30 seconds after starting, with temps set to LO, max fan, and recirc on, these are the temps I see for each vent (left to right):
61.7, 54.2, 51.7, 56.0
after 2 minutes:
51.0, 52.5, 49.4, 54.4
after 4 minutes:
50.7, 52.7, 48.3, 49.6

This is "in spec" from the FCA test procedure, and I have no complaints. In normal use, I always just set it to Auto with the temps at 68 driver / 70 passenger, and it seems to do a fine job even with ambient over 100 degrees.
Nice job! These are for all 4 dash vents, right? Go get vice grips or c clamp and wrap a sock on "out" hose for protection and put clamp on hose "out" from water pump and squeeze it like a garden hose and perform same test. You will see big difference
 
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Nice job! These are for all 4 dash vents, right? Go get vice grips or c clamp and wrap a sock on "out" hose for protection and put clamp on hose "out" from water pump and squeeze it like a garden hose and perform same test. You will see big difference
Why! His temps are right in line with design and he is comfortable with it. Why “screw” with it
 
Why! His temps are right in line with design and he is comfortable with it. Why “screw” with it
Just for info comparison to amount of affect the hot coolant has. I agree that his temps sound reasonable. He seemed to be in experimenting mood.
 
I don't understand the fascination with the coolant affecting the dash temps. OF COURSE it's going to affect the dash temps. NOBODY here really expects that the multi-million-dollar funded engineering team dedicated to thermal controls inside the vehicle somehow overlooked the fact that the flimsy plastic heater box blend door they spec'd doesn't act as a thermal vault? And that this has been the case in any vehicle produced since the invention of the heater box and blend door combo? Yeah, the air inside the vents gets colder when you take away the heat, guess what, the breeze is a whole lot stronger if you punch a hole in your windshield too. It's not acting as designed anymore, but it's a "fix" right?

Trying to use the clamps as "proof" to show fca that there's an air conditioning problem is like letting all the air out of your tires and then telling FCA "Look the tires are flat, you have a problem!". The entire point is being missed here. There's a blend door problem (theoretically), and the argument will be won when someone proves the blend door isn't functioning as designed, NOT by messing with an adjacent piece of non-related equipment.
 
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I don't understand the fascination with the coolant affecting the dash temps. OF COURSE it's going to affect the dash temps. NOBODY here really expects that the multi-million-dollar funded engineering team dedicated to thermal controls inside the vehicle somehow overlooked the fact that the flimsy plastic heater box blend door they spec'd doesn't act as a thermal vault? And that this has been the case in any vehicle produced since the invention of the heater box and blend door combo? Yeah, the air inside the vents gets colder when you take away the heat, guess what, the breeze is a whole lot stronger if you punch a hole in your windshield too. It's not acting as designed anymore, but it's a "fix" right?

Trying to use the clamps as "proof" to show fca that there's an air conditioning problem is like letting all the air out of your tires and then telling FCA "Look the tires are flat, you have a problem!". The entire point is being missed here. There's a blend door problem (theoretically), and the argument will be won when someone proves the blend door isn't functioning as designed, NOT by messing with an adjacent piece of non-related equipment.
And no one on this forum knows how FCA designed the blend door to function. Everyone is making assumptions as to how they think the blend door to function. I think most believe the blend door should go fully shut when A/C is required, but perhaps FCA wants the blend door to “blend”, not just shut.
 
I don't understand the fascination with the coolant affecting the dash temps. OF COURSE it's going to affect the dash temps. NOBODY here really expects that the multi-million-dollar funded engineering team dedicated to thermal controls inside the vehicle somehow overlooked the fact that the flimsy plastic heater box blend door they spec'd doesn't act as a thermal vault? And that this has been the case in any vehicle produced since the invention of the heater box and blend door combo? Yeah, the air inside the vents gets colder when you take away the heat, guess what, the breeze is a whole lot stronger if you punch a hole in your windshield too. It's not acting as designed anymore, but it's a "fix" right?

Trying to use the clamps as "proof" to show fca that there's an air conditioning problem is like letting all the air out of your tires and then telling FCA "Look the tires are flat, you have a problem!". The entire point is being missed here. There's a blend door problem (theoretically), and the argument will be won when someone proves the blend door isn't functioning as designed, NOT by messing with an adjacent piece of non-related equipment.
For the most part, members are looking for relief from mediocre driver center vent AC air cooling that live in hot areas of the country. Cra1g was interested in gathering some real measured numbers with his truck's AC cooling vent temps. His truck seems to be performing very well and may be what the design should be delivering. I simply thought while he had put together some great data maybe go to the next step and see where numbers would go if coolant flow temporarily reduced just for experimental data gathering. As already discovered by a member that talked to a technician at a dealership about issue, apparently there is a problem with the underside of dash sealing the ductwork for HVAC causing the blend problem. FCA already knows there is a problem.
 
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Houston driver, w/ Black/Black config. Yeah, I know not the ideal setup for Houston, but it sure is pretty.

Anyway, my A/C temps are very close to cra1g's below, and I have not felt that the car was "not cooling down enough". I wasn't thrilled seeing mid-40 to 50 temps when I measured, but the reality is it seems like the system is keeping up... so far. August is still coming.

Generally, I'll use Auto setting between 68-72. I always try to use the remote start feature a minute before I head out. I try to find shady parking, or at least park with my dash facing away from the sun. If that's not possible, the windshield shade comes out. These steps make a huge difference in my experience.

Y'all got me curious, so I just tested mine. Ambient temp = 86.8, in-truck temp before starting = 89.1
30 seconds after starting, with temps set to LO, max fan, and recirc on, these are the temps I see for each vent (left to right):
61.7, 54.2, 51.7, 56.0
after 2 minutes:
51.0, 52.5, 49.4, 54.4
after 4 minutes:
50.7, 52.7, 48.3, 49.6

This is "in spec" from the FCA test procedure, and I have no complaints. In normal use, I always just set it to Auto with the temps at 68 driver / 70 passenger, and it seems to do a fine job even with ambient over 100 degrees.
 
And no one on this forum knows how FCA designed the blend door to function. Everyone is making assumptions as to how they think the blend door to function. I think most believe the blend door should go fully shut when A/C is required, but perhaps FCA wants the blend door to “blend”, not just shut.

Here’s where you are wrong. If we have a member who believes his truck cooling is satisfactory, and gets good temps out of the vents, and then tries clamping off the heater core - we will either see a big drop in temperature, or we won’t. If there is no drop in temp, then we know his blend door etc is working as intended in his truck, and everybody else has a defect.
 
And no one on this forum knows how FCA designed the blend door to function. Everyone is making assumptions as to how they think the blend door to function. I think most believe the blend door should go fully shut when A/C is required, but perhaps FCA wants the blend door to “blend”, not just shut.

Yeah, but here's the thing, nobody has confirmed the blend door ISN'T functioning as designed.

And, my point above is: If you want to prove the blend door isn't functioning, you don't do it by compromising the flow to the heater core. There's no control in that experiment. The blend door is going to let some heat through even when it's fully closed. How much? I don't know. THAT'S the data people should be starting with, to first see IF the problem IS the blend door at all.

For the most part, members are looking for relief from mediocre driver center vent AC air cooling that live in hot areas of the country. Cra1g was interested in gathering some real measured numbers with his truck's AC cooling vent temps. His truck seems to be performing very well and may be what the design should be delivering. I simply thought while he had put together some great data maybe go to the next step and see where numbers would go if coolant flow temporarily reduced just for experimental data gathering. As already discovered by a member that talked to a technician at a dealership about issue, apparently there is a problem with the underside of dash sealing the ductwork for HVAC causing the blend problem. FCA already knows there is a problem.

I'll say it again, there's no control in this data collection. The numbers that are being collected can't be compared to anything in order to see what exactly the problem is. How do we know each and every person listing their "data" is following the HVAC testing procedure exactly? Are they recording ambient temperature, (the "Feels Like" local temp from a calibrated known good source) or are they using the truck's temp sensor which we also know is optimistic by 5 or more degrees? Are they setting their A/C properly, manually selecting Lo and manually selecting fan speed? How long are they waiting? Is the truck warm or cold? What's the coolant temp? People can collect all the "data" they want, put the "numbers" in a chart, but it's Not. Good. Data. And, on top of all this, (once again), nobody has confirmed that the blend door is functioning properly FIRST, and then found the delta of the air temp across the blend door, so that the air vent temp data they collect is controlled.

And if there is in fact a duct leak under the dash, that's NOT a blend door problem, and further makes the clamping of the coolant hoses even more ridiculous. If there's a duct leak, that means that heat is getting back into the system after the blend door and the heater core.
 
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Yeah, but here's the thing, nobody has confirmed the blend door ISN'T functioning as designed.

And, my point above is: If you want to prove the blend door isn't functioning, you don't do it by compromising the flow to the heater core. There's no control in that experiment. The blend door is going to let some heat through even when it's fully closed. How much? I don't know. THAT'S the data people should be starting with, to first see IF the problem IS the blend door at all.



I'll say it again, there's no control in this data collection. The numbers that are being collected can't be compared to anything in order to see what exactly the problem is. How do we know each and every person listing their "data" is following the HVAC testing procedure exactly? Are they recording ambient temperature, (the "Feels Like" local temp from a calibrated known god source) or are they using the truck's temp sensor which we also know is optimistic by 5 or more degrees? Are they setting their A/C properly, manually selecting Lo and manually selecting fan speed? How long are they waiting? Is the truck warm or cold? What's the coolant temp? People can collect all the "data" they want, put the "numbers" in a chart, but it's Not. Good. Data. And, on top of all this, (once again), nobody has confirmed that the blend door is functioning properly FIRST, and then find the delta of the air temp across the blend door, so that the air vent temp data they collect is controlled.

I'd add that the whole concept of measuring the outlet temperature doesn't really prove anything, except whether it's in-spec or not. Cooling effectiveness is also about volume of airflow and direction (how well it reaches occupants in the cabin). You could have -15F air coming from the vent, but it won't cool your truck if the airflow is very small and only directed at the windscreen. And so comparing it to other vehicles ("my Honda blows 41F and the Ram 44, therefore the Ram sucks at cooling"), as some in this thread have done, is a waste of time.
 
For what it is worth,
When I took my truck for the UConnect update and air bag recall, I complained about my AC blowing Diff. temp. from driver and passenger vents. The tech that was working on the updates was around when i complained about the AC to the service MGR. The tech jumped in and said the problems is due to a design flaw.
the service MGR told him to shut up! I told the service MGR to let the tech. talk!
I will try to explain the best I captured the info.
So, apparently the trap doors separating the left and right vents come together in the center of the dash top. He said he was tasked by FCA for the analysis of this issue. .the tech said when he removed the dash top on a truck with same complaints, the dash top sits on top of the channel/tunnel directing air to the vents on each side. Dash top has a foam seal on the bottom side that sits on top of the dash sealing the tunnel. the seal is supposed to seal. The seal does not work as designed (does not seal air tight), therefor that is why we get hotter reading on the driver side.
The service MGR gave the usual BS as to why the temps are different!
The tech said that he does not know anything about any changes to the design.
******read this***** azzx got some info out of a knowledgable technician at his dealership. Thanks azzx !!! :cool:
 
I don't understand the fascination with the coolant affecting the dash temps. OF COURSE it's going to affect the dash temps. NOBODY here really expects that the multi-million-dollar funded engineering team dedicated to thermal controls inside the vehicle somehow overlooked the fact that the flimsy plastic heater box blend door they spec'd doesn't act as a thermal vault? And that this has been the case in any vehicle produced since the invention of the heater box and blend door combo? Yeah, the air inside the vents gets colder when you take away the heat, guess what, the breeze is a whole lot stronger if you punch a hole in your windshield too. It's not acting as designed anymore, but it's a "fix" right?

Trying to use the clamps as "proof" to show fca that there's an air conditioning problem is like letting all the air out of your tires and then telling FCA "Look the tires are flat, you have a problem!". The entire point is being missed here. There's a blend door problem (theoretically), and the argument will be won when someone proves the blend door isn't functioning as designed, NOT by messing with an adjacent piece of non-related equipment.
This is a means to an end, not messing with non related equipment. I was the first here to cut the coolant flow, I did not do this to show FCA the error of their ways. I wanted colder air, and I got it. It's just that simple. If this is not a design flaw, so be it. Do you go over to the threads about lifting truck suspension, or changing exhaust systems and push your egotistical diatribes there? Your analogies are off putting and childish.
 
This is a means to an end, not messing with non related equipment. I was the first here to cut the coolant flow, I did not do this to show FCA the error of their ways. I wanted colder air, and I got it. It's just that simple. If this is not a design flaw, so be it. Do you go over to the threads about lifting truck suspension, or changing exhaust systems and push your egotistical diatribes there? Your analogies are off putting and childish.
Exactly, KcRay. I’ll keep my hose clamped and the colder air flowing until FCA comes up with fix.
 

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