Moparian
Ram Guru
Yes same one, just a newer revision. I got this one since its $100 cheaper and I am only adding subs to mine, https://www.abt.com/PAC-Audio-AmpPRO-SUB-Advanced-Amplifier-Interface-APSUBCH41/p/156297.html
5thGenRams Forums
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?
- Thread starter WRH
- Start date
minmar10
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2020
- Messages
- 33
- Reaction score
- 41
Alright, thanks.
Last edited:
I hate to add onto this huge thread with another question, but hopefully it’ll be a simple answer! I actually like my base stereo (surprisingly) but I noticed the sound stage up front is loud and sounds relatively good, but the rear speakers hardly get any volume at all. If I upgrade the rear speakers only will they play any louder? If I got some 3 way rear speakers how do you think it would affect the overall sound quality? I wish the rears just played a bit louder to more evenly match the front & it wouldn’t hurt to have a little more highs coming from the rear too. I’m assuming this would be a simple plug and play swap right? Any specific rms range or ohms I should look for? And if I added a sub and mono amp could I just get the ANC bypass harness from crutchfield and plug it in or is there more to it? I swear I’ve read a ton of these posts but I’m an idiot with stereo stuff lol. Thank you!
brian42
Ram Guru
You can fade the sound to the rear to bring them up more.
If you replace the rear speakers you probably won't make them louder. If you stay with the 2 ohm impedance the aftermarket speakers will probably be more power hungry than the OEM ones so will not be louder. Sound better, yes. Play louder, probably not.
If you replace all 4 door speakers then you might bring up the sound.
The door speakers are mid-bass speakers. Adding 2- or 3-way speakers will change the sound stage as the OEM system just pumps highs out of the dash and bounces them off the windshield to project it through the cab.
Some combinations will be better than others and what one person likes another will not so you will have to make your decision based on what you read and what you like.
Best of luck and post your journey for the rest of us to learn from.
If you replace the rear speakers you probably won't make them louder. If you stay with the 2 ohm impedance the aftermarket speakers will probably be more power hungry than the OEM ones so will not be louder. Sound better, yes. Play louder, probably not.
If you replace all 4 door speakers then you might bring up the sound.
The door speakers are mid-bass speakers. Adding 2- or 3-way speakers will change the sound stage as the OEM system just pumps highs out of the dash and bounces them off the windshield to project it through the cab.
Some combinations will be better than others and what one person likes another will not so you will have to make your decision based on what you read and what you like.
Best of luck and post your journey for the rest of us to learn from.
Thank you so much for all the info! Hmm ok so it doesn’t sound like replacing only the rear speakers is the best use of money. I just added dynamat to the inside of my doors and it definitely feels like the stereo is louder overall in the truck (I’m assuming since sound isn’t escaping “out” of the truck through the door panels), but after doing so my rear speaker on some notes almost sounds like paper tapping. I did disconnect the speaker to dynamat inside, I could’ve swore I plugged it in the same way but is it possible I didn’t? Could that sound come from somehow flipping the plug? Thanks againYou can fade the sound to the rear to bring them up more.
If you replace the rear speakers you probably won't make them louder. If you stay with the 2 ohm impedance the aftermarket speakers will probably be more power hungry than the OEM ones so will not be louder. Sound better, yes. Play louder, probably not.
If you replace all 4 door speakers then you might bring up the sound.
The door speakers are mid-bass speakers. Adding 2- or 3-way speakers will change the sound stage as the OEM system just pumps highs out of the dash and bounces them off the windshield to project it through the cab.
Some combinations will be better than others and what one person likes another will not so you will have to make your decision based on what you read and what you like.
Best of luck and post your journey for the rest of us to learn from.
brian42
Ram Guru
If it's the OEM wiring there should only be one way that the plug goes together. Did you put the speakers back in the same door they came from?
Now that you can hear "better" you might be hearing some imperfections that were there before but you couldn't hear.
My right front door speaker pops way earlier than the other ones but the dealership says that everything sounds fine. Every speaker will react a little differently. Even more so if there's a potential issue with it.
Now that you can hear "better" you might be hearing some imperfections that were there before but you couldn't hear.
My right front door speaker pops way earlier than the other ones but the dealership says that everything sounds fine. Every speaker will react a little differently. Even more so if there's a potential issue with it.
Hmm ok! No I did one door at a time so it’s not from a different door. It definitely sounds worse than it did before so I’m gonna take it all apart again and see if I can tell anything is wrong. Thank you for all the info!
So I upgraded all 4 door speakers in my base stereo to Infinity Ref 9632ix and they sound really good! I kinda feel like my driver door doesn’t sound as good as the rest for some reason but whatever. The fronts definitely play full range, not just lows like I saw on this forum. Overall it sounds great especially at high volume 25+ but below that I kinda feel like it’s lacking bass so I want to add a 10” alpine S sub & Alpine amp. Question though, if I get the $10 bypass harness for the ANC, does the sub get the speaker signal from the ANC or do I need to wire it up behind the dash or something? I thought I had read I can hook it up to the ANC. So power wire from battery to amp, then ground, then get signal to amp from ANC, then speaker wire from amp to sub? Is that right?
pmegason
Active Member
I believe that if you use the bypass harness then you will skip the ANC all together. I know you can tap into the speaker wires there for you signal to the amp if your amp has high level inputs. Your best bet is to get the PAC AMP PRO. You will get the remote wire and all the RCA outputs you need. 30 minute install and it makes it so much easier.
Hmm ok I think you’re right. I think I misread it before. Yeahhh $350 for the Amp Pro is going to be a hard pass for me lol I’ll just bypass the ANC and tap into my speaker wires for $10. Thanks!
minmar10
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2020
- Messages
- 33
- Reaction score
- 41
They have 2 different amp pros, if you are just going to power the sub with the amp go with the amp pro sub. A little lighter on the wallet.
pmegason
Active Member
$350 is what they charge online if you can find one. I got mine for $240 at a local shop. Look at the PAC website for a bypass harness that will give you the outputs you need. I think they have them.
alexcinati
New Member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2019
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 1
The 3.5" are 8 ohm for a reason. They are connected in parallel with the front doors speakers that are 2 ohm. If you do math such setup will have 1.60 ohm overall ( Ideally should be 2 ohm). If you install 3.5" with 4 ohm you will get 1.33 ohm per channel. I have mine for a year now with JBL 2ohms and Alpine 4 ohm and low cut filter and it works just fine. I am talking about an 8.4" screen standard 6 speaker system.
Moparian
Ram Guru
If you have the base system pickup this as you can tap into the speaker wires without having to jackup your factory wiring. I also used the kicker kisloc2 which gives you a remote turn on lead as well. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-Factory-...ocphy=9011569&hvtargid=pla-931342574061&psc=1
Amazon.com: Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On Output : Electronics
Buy Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On Output: Amplifier Wiring Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Dang the more people like you chime in the more I feel like I may be over my head with this install haha. I planned on getting the bypass harness, but what exactly does that kicker thing do? Or why do I need it?
HookedonRam
Active Member
I have the harness but what does the kicker thing do? I replaced all my stock speakers but there still not enough power. I’d like to add an amp to amplify all the speakers and maybe add a sub or two.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Moparian
Ram Guru
The kicker is a line out converter to feed your amp, basically takes your factory signal and flattens it(to a degree). To get the cleanest signal you would want the Pac AmpPro which connects behind the radio(if you want to run a DSP or audiophile grade speakers) but these will work fine if you are wanting to amplify all of your speakers and a sub you'll need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl...onics&sprefix=line+out,electronics,173&sr=1-5
or for half the price
or for half the price
All_Black_Lone_Star
Active Member
No if you have the base system you will not need load resistors.
roostertails12
Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2019
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 25
So I wanted to give my 2 cents on this. Sorry for the longer post I’m advance.
I have a 2019 Lonestar level 2 with the base 6 speaker system. I started with the 3.5 dash and rear 6x9’s. For the dash I went with infinity and the rears are kickers . I got the clipping from the dashes , I didn’t use blockers so o just lived with it for a little while.
I finally bought everything to do a sub and amp add , I wanted to use the pac unit but the unit that just gave a sub output was and is impossible to find .... the other pac unit after I did my research I found that you had to amplify everything to make It work... that’s not what I was wanting so I ended up going with the lc2i in line with the anc-ch01 to splice in to. I spliced the power and ground from the harness , and tapped in to the rears for my rca outputs to my app and it sets under my driver seat.
I didn’t want to mess with behind the seat mounting For an amp , so I went with a small kicker mono block and it mounts under the middle back seats. For a box I went with ground shaker . Down fire ported 10 box . I think the down fire has always sounded clean and loud. . The fit isn’t the best but I always have rough country floor liners as well. So it may have messed with the figment a little. For the sub I went with a JL WO 4 ohm. After tuning it a little it really sounds great. It’s not going to shake the mirrors. But plenty loud and extremely clear. I did a ton of research before I did this and wanted to share for anybody interested. .
side note. When I bypassed the ANC .... the clipping stopped from the dash speaker. And they scream.
The box took about 3 weeks to get . that was the worst. Although it performs really well. And it’s not outrageously priced like the stealth box. I still have some room under the smaller back seat.
Hope This helps somebody out.
I have a 2019 Lonestar level 2 with the base 6 speaker system. I started with the 3.5 dash and rear 6x9’s. For the dash I went with infinity and the rears are kickers . I got the clipping from the dashes , I didn’t use blockers so o just lived with it for a little while.
I finally bought everything to do a sub and amp add , I wanted to use the pac unit but the unit that just gave a sub output was and is impossible to find .... the other pac unit after I did my research I found that you had to amplify everything to make It work... that’s not what I was wanting so I ended up going with the lc2i in line with the anc-ch01 to splice in to. I spliced the power and ground from the harness , and tapped in to the rears for my rca outputs to my app and it sets under my driver seat.
I didn’t want to mess with behind the seat mounting For an amp , so I went with a small kicker mono block and it mounts under the middle back seats. For a box I went with ground shaker . Down fire ported 10 box . I think the down fire has always sounded clean and loud. . The fit isn’t the best but I always have rough country floor liners as well. So it may have messed with the figment a little. For the sub I went with a JL WO 4 ohm. After tuning it a little it really sounds great. It’s not going to shake the mirrors. But plenty loud and extremely clear. I did a ton of research before I did this and wanted to share for anybody interested. .
side note. When I bypassed the ANC .... the clipping stopped from the dash speaker. And they scream.
The box took about 3 weeks to get . that was the worst. Although it performs really well. And it’s not outrageously priced like the stealth box. I still have some room under the smaller back seat.
Hope This helps somebody out.
