5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

Lots of info in this thread to digest. I only have one question. I bought the infinity speakers for my dash and doors. I have the alpine setup. I haven’t installed them yet but want to know if the drone from the anc is typical or just a few people get it. Also, if I do get it which harness do I need. I’ve seen a few online but not sure which to get. Not sure if the one I found on Amazon is the one I need. Thank you in advance 🙏🏾
 
So I wanted to give my 2 cents on this. Sorry for the longer post I’m advance.

I have a 2019 Lonestar level 2 with the base 6 speaker system. I started with the 3.5 dash and rear 6x9’s. For the dash I went with infinity and the rears are kickers . I got the clipping from the dashes , I didn’t use blockers so o just lived with it for a little while.

I finally bought everything to do a sub and amp add , I wanted to use the pac unit but the unit that just gave a sub output was and is impossible to find .... the other pac unit after I did my research I found that you had to amplify everything to make It work... that’s not what I was wanting so I ended up going with the lc2i in line with the anc-ch01 to splice in to. I spliced the power and ground from the harness , and tapped in to the rears for my rca outputs to my app and it sets under my driver seat.

I didn’t want to mess with behind the seat mounting For an amp , so I went with a small kicker mono block and it mounts under the middle back seats. For a box I went with ground shaker . Down fire ported 10 box . I think the down fire has always sounded clean and loud. . The fit isn’t the best but I always have rough country floor liners as well. So it may have messed with the figment a little. For the sub I went with a JL WO 4 ohm. After tuning it a little it really sounds great. It’s not going to shake the mirrors. But plenty loud and extremely clear. I did a ton of research before I did this and wanted to share for anybody interested. .

side note. When I bypassed the ANC .... the clipping stopped from the dash speaker. And they scream.

The box took about 3 weeks to get . that was the worst. Although it performs really well. And it’s not outrageously priced like the stealth box. I still have some room under the smaller back seat.

Hope This helps somebody out.
I'm planning to do the same as I move everything from my Gen 4 to my Gen 5. The box I had for my Gen 4 isn't going to fit and the LOC doesn't sound like it is preferred.

I was looking at the same box for my JL. How do you like it?

I have the reclining rear seats, do you know if they will still be able to recline?

I also have the MOPAR mats, will they work with this box and will I be able to access the underfloor storage?

Did you use the anc-ch01 so you didn't have to splice directly into the trucks wires?

Thanks.
 
View attachment 81373

The dsr1 already comes with new speaker leads to connect to, so you can just connect those to the aftermarket amps.
I have an HK system.. Would this allow me to splice into the speaker wires to feed a LOC for my sub amp while still using the factory amp for all other speakers? There have been t harnesses that people have used for this but from my research, they were not compatible with the HK system.
 
I have an HK system.. Would this allow me to splice into the speaker wires to feed a LOC for my sub amp while still using the factory amp for all other speakers? There have been t harnesses that people have used for this but from my research, they were not compatible with the HK system.

No, the dsr1 does not work for keeping the factory amp/anc. The dsr1 replaces it completely, meaning you will need new amps to power even the stock speakers.
 
Ok, I read through 20 pages and there is so much information in here it's giving me a headache. Almost everyone in here apparently dreams bigger than me and installs subs, amps, disables anc etc. What if I just had a poverty edition tradesman 3500 and wanted to simply swap out the factory speakers to something that sounds a little better. I don't need them to blow my ear drums out I just want slightly clearer sound than the cheap factory speakers. The little experience I have from years ago had me putting 3 ways in the doors and they sounded a lot better but that doesn't seem to be the best idea. Do I just go with simple 2 way 6x9 speakers, new 3.5" dash speakers and adapters for factory wiring and call it good? Or will anc give me problems?
 
Ok, I read through 20 pages and there is so much information in here it's giving me a headache. Almost everyone in here apparently dreams bigger than me and installs subs, amps, disables anc etc. What if I just had a poverty edition tradesman 3500 and wanted to simply swap out the factory speakers to something that sounds a little better. I don't need them to blow my ear drums out I just want slightly clearer sound than the cheap factory speakers. The little experience I have from years ago had me putting 3 ways in the doors and they sounded a lot better but that doesn't seem to be the best idea. Do I just go with simple 2 way 6x9 speakers, new 3.5" dash speakers and adapters for factory wiring and call it good? Or will anc give me problems?
The doors are what's hooked to the ANC (if you have it) and can become an issue with aftermarket replacements.

The dash speakers are in parallel with the front doors but don't seem to affect the ANC so swapping them is straight forward.

I'm not sure how the HDs are set up but if you have the base 6-speaker audio look under your driver's seat. If there's a box there (looks like it might be a small amplifier) then you have ANC (that's the ANC unit, not an amp). If there's no box then you don't have ANC and the world is your oyster to drop in aftermarket speakers all around (with adapters) and keep on truckin'.

The base audio speakers are powered from the head unit so there's no external amp.

For just speaker replacement here are a couple of threads off the top of my head:


 
I'm planning to do the same as I move everything from my Gen 4 to my Gen 5. The box I had for my Gen 4 isn't going to fit and the LOC doesn't sound like it is preferred.

I was looking at the same box for my JL. How do you like it?

I have the reclining rear seats, do you know if they will still be able to recline?

I also have the MOPAR mats, will they work with this box and will I be able to access the underfloor storage?

Did you use the anc-ch01 so you didn't have to splice directly into the trucks wires?

Thanks.
The loc was really easy to install and works perfectly fine. I wanted to use the sub only pac unit but was out of stock everywhere .... so this was the option I chose

like I said in the post the box preforms really well. When you fold the seat down it becomes very ridged snd does not
Move. And sounds really great .

I don’t know about the reclining seats sorry

if you have the storage u see the back seats then I doubt it will work.

The harness allowed me to splice in the the harness itself and not the truck wiring.
 
Net Audio has a direct connect harness that plugs into the subwoofer channel behind the seat after you remove the factory sub. That can be fed to a line out converter (LOC) or better a LC2i ($75) or LC2i PRO ($120) which gives you the RCA output for the amp and a stronger and cleaner signal. ANC may have to be bypassed or positive wire to it cut to avoid the bass being rolled off, especially if using a LOC. LC2i PRO should be able to correct it using the threshold and accubass adjustments, however not 100% sure as I haven't tried it yet. Ended up going with. PAC APSUB-CH41 to bypass ANC and provides a 5v RCA sub channel output crossed to 350Hz. Weaker than the 9.5-13v signal a LC2i produces, or even better the Epicenter from Audio Control at up to ~19v. The 5th gen rams are made for audio upgrades, just the ANC is a pain.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20210506-124914_Brave.jpg
    Screenshot_20210506-124914_Brave.jpg
    78 KB · Views: 55
Lots of info in this thread to digest. I only have one question. I bought the infinity speakers for my dash and doors. I have the alpine setup. I haven’t installed them yet but want to know if the drone from the anc is typical or just a few people get it. Also, if I do get it which harness do I need. I’ve seen a few online but not sure which to get. Not sure if the one I found on Amazon is the one I need. Thank you in advance 🙏🏾
Skip the hassle and find a PAC AmpPRO-CH41. Add the APH-CH03 and can bypass ANC and retain factory amp or push them with an additional amp or both without having to cut or splice anything. Extra cost for piece of mind, good sound, and easy to remove later if needed.
 
The doors are what's hooked to the ANC (if you have it) and can become an issue with aftermarket replacements.

The dash speakers are in parallel with the front doors but don't seem to affect the ANC so swapping them is straight forward.

I'm not sure how the HDs are set up but if you have the base 6-speaker audio look under your driver's seat. If there's a box there (looks like it might be a small amplifier) then you have ANC (that's the ANC unit, not an amp). If there's no box then you don't have ANC and the world is your oyster to drop in aftermarket speakers all around (with adapters) and keep on truckin'.

The base audio speakers are powered from the head unit so there's no external amp.

For just speaker replacement here are a couple of threads off the top of my head:


I'm almost positive all HD's have ANC. Mine has about 57 microphones all around the interior so I have it.
 
Dang the more people like you chime in the more I feel like I may be over my head with this install haha. I planned on getting the bypass harness, but what exactly does that kicker thing do? Or why do I need it?
You can use positap connectors to tap into signal wires. ANC can be cut (just positive wire) as well to avoid signal cutting out. To avoid all of that and to greatly speed your install a harness from PAC is a good choice. If you use a line out it may still sound like crap as it is already amplified and pushes a very low voltage signal to the amp. A few extra bucks goes a long way versus having to do everything over again and being frustrated.
 
I've got a 19 Ram Limited. I've got the 9 speaker system with sub and window sticker says the ANC. Sticker doesn't say anything about Alpine, though. I was looking at upgrading the dash and door speakers with some Kicker 3.5s and 6x9s. Looks like I'll need the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 to bypass the ANC.

If I get the PAC adapter, though, from what I've been able to tell, I'll lose the signal from the factory amp to the door speakers so I'll need to install an aftermarket amp to push my new door speakers? Crutchfield makes it seems like I can just drop in some 6x9s and be good to go... I may be horribly confused. I miss the old days of car audio before all the premium systems...
 
I've got a 19 Ram Limited. I've got the 9 speaker system with sub and window sticker says the ANC. Sticker doesn't say anything about Alpine, though. I was looking at upgrading the dash and door speakers with some Kicker 3.5s and 6x9s. Looks like I'll need the PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 to bypass the ANC.

If I get the PAC adapter, though, from what I've been able to tell, I'll lose the signal from the factory amp to the door speakers so I'll need to install an aftermarket amp to push my new door speakers? Crutchfield makes it seems like I can just drop in some 6x9s and be good to go... I may be horribly confused. I miss the old days of car audio before all the premium systems...
If you are just changing the speakers then you don't need the PAC AMPPRO or an ANC bypass. You can just swap the speakers. The dash and doors are wired parallel so you will need to check the OHMS. I only had the 6 speaker system with no ANC on my 2020 because I have the EcoDiesel. My 2019 I had the ANC and had to use a bypass harness when I added an amp and sub. The only thing I have stock in my 2020 is the radio it self. All the doors and dash have been swapped for Kickers.
 
If you are just changing the speakers then you don't need the PAC AMPPRO or an ANC bypass. You can just swap the speakers. The dash and doors are wired parallel so you will need to check the OHMS. I only had the 6 speaker system with no ANC on my 2020 because I have the EcoDiesel. My 2019 I had the ANC and had to use a bypass harness when I added an amp and sub. The only thing I have stock in my 2020 is the radio it self. All the doors and dash have been swapped for Kickers.
I was going to swap the doors and dash with Kickers. I will go back later and add a sub and amp once I figure out where to put the things. I thought I saw somewhere in this 92 pages that I couldn't retain use of the factory amp with the speaker swap due to the ANC. Sounds like I'll order all the speakers today. I'll put the sub and the AmpPRO off to another day. Thank you!
 
I've got the 9 speaker system with sub and window sticker says the ANC.
The dash and doors are wired parallel so you will need to check the OHMS.
Only the base 6-speaker audio had the dash and front door speakers wired in parallel (8 ohms for the dash speaker and 2 ohms for the door speakers).

Wiring diagrams are in post #22 of this thread (page 2) thanks to @I Love Grits .

With the amplified systems (Alpine and H/K) the dash speakers are on their own channel since both of those systems have an external amp.

IIRC the dash speakers for the Alpine and H/K are 2 ohm.
 
Only the base 6-speaker audio had the dash and front door speakers wired in parallel (8 ohms for the dash speaker and 2 ohms for the door speakers).

Wiring diagrams are in post #22 of this thread (page 2) thanks to @I Love Grits .

With the amplified systems (Alpine and H/K) the dash speakers are on their own channel since both of those systems have an external amp.

IIRC the dash speakers for the Alpine and H/K are 2 ohm.
Thanks, Brian. It looks like the Alpine system is 2 ohm speakers. I was hoping I could just drop some new speakers in the dash and doors and call it a day. Crutchfield is recommending a new amp (naturally) for the new speakers but adding a new amp means bypassing the old one which, I believe, is wired into the ANC which means needing the PAC AmpPRO which I wasn't planning to order yet. I have to take the door panels off to do my interior lighting upgrade with the Paragon Optics kit so I wanted to swap speakers out while I had them off.
 
You can drop new speakers in and call it a day if you want.

I'm not sure how they determine it at the factory but some of the speakers are wired out of phase for the ANC. I've read of people just swapping speakers, swapping speakers and fixing polarity issues, going whole hog with a whole new system, and lots of stuff in-between. Some have been happy and some not.

In the end it's what you want to do. If you want to try out new speakers and get the Metra adapters then it's easily reversible if you aren't happy with the results.

I would recommend doing one thing at a time to see if you like it. If you jump in with all the speakers and you aren't happy then you'll have to undo things in stages to see where it "went wrong". If you add one thing at a time instead it will be easier to determine your satisfaction level at each step until you get as far as you want.

Audio systems are an incredibly subjective topic and you will get the entire range of recommendations (from people are happy with the base 6-speaker audio to those that are disappointed with the H/K audio). It is up to you to decipher everything and decide the direction you want to go.
 
Last edited:
I was going to swap the doors and dash with Kickers. I will go back later and add a sub and amp once I figure out where to put the things. I thought I saw somewhere in this 92 pages that I couldn't retain use of the factory amp with the speaker swap due to the ANC. Sounds like I'll order all the speakers today. I'll put the sub and the AmpPRO off to another day. Thank you!
You can use the Audio Control lc2i to tap the high level frequency of the sub to give you an rca output for a sub amp. My brothers 17 sport has the alpine system and this is what we did to upgrade the subs
 
Final set-up, base 6 speaker system, in case someone wants a quick idea of one option:

Kicker 44KSC3504 in dash corners
Infinity Reference REF-9632ix in front doors (TWEETERS DISABLED)
Infinity Reference REF-9633ix in rear doors
Rockville 10" Powered Sub hidden behind the rear wall carpet - high level inputs off the L/R rear doors at the amp (probably will swap for a thin 12 later)

Running +6 bass, -1 Mid, -3 Treble. All speakers NEGATIVE phase as it came stock. ANC disabled (de-pinned at harness)

Sounds GREAT for a low cost setup, total cost about $350. Whatever I did could not get rid of piercing horrible treble from the front 9632's at max negative treble on the EQ, cut tweeter wire and problem solved, plenty of treble from the dash speakers and rear.
Where did you tap into the high level inputs on the base system? I thought the base system didn’t have an amp. I have the base system with no amp. Just the ANC which I bypassed with a adapter. I ordered the Rockville 10” sub and am wondering where to tap into the speaker wires for the high level input. Any pointers would be appreciated!
 
Where did you tap into the high level inputs on the base system? I thought the base system didn’t have an amp. I have the base system with no amp. Just the ANC which I bypassed with a adapter. I ordered the Rockville 10” sub and am wondering where to tap into the speaker wires for the high level input. Any pointers would be appreciated!
The outputs from the head unit on the Base 6 / inputs to the ANC are amplified and as such will work for your sub high-level signal, with the caveat that without resistance across those wires some folks have experienced the head unit muting itself - not an issue if you are tapping, only if you are disconnecting completely from factory speakers. I attached a wiring diagram for your reference.

*The bypass you used may have different colors; it would make sense to tap the bypass wiring instead of cutting the factory harness. I'd use Rear right & Rear left channels for your sub.
 

Attachments

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top