5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[jsampsell]

I think I will order one of these as well. I hope someone else has used V1 with the HK system.

I installed it this past weekend and it works as expected.

 

[Chakobe]

Some more pics, front doors and tweeter mounts. Tweeter mounts are custom made, i used a router table to copy the factory dash speaker profile. For dyns had to use 1/8 abs 1/4 made the tweeter hit the grill.

Hey, a couple of questions. Did you use the Rockford DSR-1? Also did you notice any audio issues due to replacing the dash speakers with tweeters?

 

[Ellisstrong]

I installed it this past weekend and it works as expected.

Thanks I’m ordering it right now.

 

[Grimson]

Has anybody with the base system tried installing a 4ohm/10w resistor on their aftermarket dash speakers? If so did it make an improvement since the factory stereo would see an “8ohm” load. Seems like the 4th gen guys had some success with this on their base systems.

Yes, I did this to my Kicker KS dash speakers. They were way to hot prior to the resistor add...

 

[Meglomachinist]

Well no luck on the pac v2 in my ecodiesel, just hi leveled in to feed the helix dsp. A picture of progress finally stopped raining so got all the wire run just need to hook everything up and tune away. As you can see its almost like the truck was designed for two helix hxa 500s.

 

[Meglomachinist]

Hey, a couple of questions. Did you use the Rockford DSR-1? Also did you notice any audio issues due to replacing the dash speakers with tweeters?

Im using a helix dsp.2 not a rockford, and running the fronts full active no passive crossovers. Will know more on chimes etc tomorrow as Im just getting ready to test. Im assuming no issues since Im running high level so should see any "sounds" fine. The factory drivers in the dash are basically acting like a tweet on the base models and with the range on the dynaudios and my previous experiences using them in front stage setups expecting nothing but awesome.

 

[sparkygreen]

Well no luck on the pac v2 in my ecodiesel, just hi leveled in to feed the helix dsp. A picture of progress finally stopped raining so got all the wire run just need to hook everything up and tune away. As you can see its almost like the truck was designed for two helix hxa 500s.

Awesome work! Where did you run the main power wire inside the cab? Ive read some say that its hard to run down the door sills since there is no room. Just curious if you ran it there or pulled the seat and ran it down the center?

Also what is your second battery and where is it located? I notice the Stinger relay. Im back and forth on adding a second small format battery like XS or Kinetic.

Any other photos or info you want to share is helpful. Im installing my system now. I need one more day and Ill have all 4 doors sound deadened and all door/dash speakers installed. Then on to the main cab to sound deaden and install power, signal and amps.
Thanks!

 

[Moparian]

Awesome work! Where did you run the main power wire inside the cab? Ive read some say that its hard to run down the door sills since there is no room. Just curious if you ran it there or pulled the seat and ran it down the center?

Also what is your second battery and where is it located? I notice the Stinger relay. Im back and forth on adding a second small format battery like XS or Kinetic.

Any other photos or info you want to share is helpful. Im installing my system now. I need one more day and Ill have all 4 doors sound deadened and all door/dash speakers installed. Then on to the main cab to sound deaden and install power, signal and amps.
Thanks!

I had no issue running 4 AWG down the door sills, you have to cut some electical tape to be able to open the plastic channel that all of the factory wires run through but there is enough room. You might have an issue if you are running 0/1 AWG but it wasnt really a tight fit with the 4 so you'd probably be ok, The good thing is if you take out the rear passenger seat and the floor storage bin you can easily get your RCA's, remote turn on and bass knob(if you have one) ran back to under the driver seat easily.

 

[Meglomachinist]

Awesome work! Where did you run the main power wire inside the cab? Ive read some say that its hard to run down the door sills since there is no room. Just curious if you ran it there or pulled the seat and ran it down the center?

Also what is your second battery and where is it located? I notice the Stinger relay. Im back and forth on adding a second small format battery like XS or Kinetic.

Any other photos or info you want to share is helpful. Im installing my system now. I need one more day and Ill have all 4 doors sound deadened and all door/dash speakers installed. Then on to the main cab to sound deaden and install power, signal and amps.
Thanks!

No second battery I just use marine breakers instead of fuses as they are way more simple to deal with if you ever need to work on the system and are usually easier to mount cleanly. In this case a perfect spot right in front of the battery. Power is run down drivers side. The factory wire troughs work great, I ran 4 guage and all new speaker wire down the drivers side, and the stinger speedwire, rh speaker wire and control cable for the dsp on passenger. Just slice the tape and pop them open. To get all the way to the back you do need to undo the rear seat belt torx bolt pull the panel and underseat trim and then you can fully pop those channels. Now if you dont have an e torque there is also a nice unused grounding lug right back on the drivers side, see picture. Should have more pics up later today. Good luck with your install.

 

[sparkygreen]

No second battery I just use marine breakers instead of fuses as they are way more simple to deal with if you ever need to work on the system and are usually easier to mount cleanly. In this case a perfect spot right in front of the battery. Power is run down drivers side. The factory wire troughs work great, I ran 4 guage and all new speaker wire down the drivers side, and the stinger speedwire, rh speaker wire and control cable for the dsp on passenger. Just slice the tape and pop them open. To get all the way to the back you do need to undo the rear seat belt torx bolt pull the panel and underseat trim and then you can fully pop those channels. Now if you dont have an e torque there is also a nice unused grounding lug right back on the drivers side, see picture. Should have more pics up later today. Good luck with your install.

Thanks for the info. I have 1/0 Power wire so I will have to see if it will fit in the same spot or not.

Great info on the grounding lug! Mine is non-etorque and that will come in very handy!

 

[sparkygreen]

I had no issue running 4 AWG down the door sills, you have to cut some electical tape to be able to open the plastic channel that all of the factory wires run through but there is enough room. You might have an issue if you are running 0/1 AWG but it wasnt really a tight fit with the 4 so you'd probably be ok, The good thing is if you take out the rear passenger seat and the floor storage bin you can easily get your RCA's, remote turn on and bass knob(if you have one) ran back to under the driver seat easily.

Thanks for the heads up. I am running 1/0 so we will see how it goes. Im definitely taking out both rear seats to get back there with the sound deadening. I have nothing but time, so I figure I will end up pulling the driver's seat if needed to help run wires.

Thanks!

 

[Moparian]

Thanks for the heads up. I am running 1/0 so we will see how it goes. Im definitely taking out both rear seats to get back there with the sound deadening. I have nothing but time, so I figure I will end up pulling the driver's seat if needed to help run wires.

Thanks!

You shouldnt need to pull the driver seat, if you move it all the way forward and up, it gives you plenty of access to the ANC or amp, plus the carpet is already cut right there for the rear floor vents so it makes it easy to run wires to the back without having to remove carpet. I ran my bass knob wire under the center console all the way up to the front edge. You will need a E12 socket(e-torx) to get the front bolts and a 18/19mm socket for the rear bolts for both seats in the back.

 

[sparkygreen]

You shouldnt need to pull the driver seat, if you move it all the way forward and up, it gives you plenty of access to the ANC or amp, plus the carpet is already cut right there for the rear floor vents so it makes it easy to run wires to the back without having to remove carpet. I ran my bass knob wire under the center console all the way up to the front edge. You will need a E12 socket(e-torx) to get the front bolts and a 18/19mm socket for the rear bolts for both seats in the back.

Thanks for the info. I'll have to get that E-Torx. I was assuming standard torx would be all I needed.

I also have 18mm socket, but I don't think I have a 19mm. If I need to get one of those too when I get the E-Torx.

Thanks!

 

[Moparian]

Thanks for the info. I'll have to get that E-Torx. I was assuming standard torx would be all I needed.

I also have 18mm socket, but I don't think I have a 19mm. If I need to get one of those too when I get the E-Torx.

Thanks!

Im 99.9% sure its an 18mm, I didnt have one so I had to make due with the 19. Home Depot has nice set of 3/8 e-torx for $25

 

[Meglomachinist]

Thanks for the info. I'll have to get that E-Torx. I was assuming standard torx would be all I needed.

I also have 18mm socket, but I don't think I have a 19mm. If I need to get one of those too when I get the E-Torx.

Thanks!

The torx for seatbelts is a T50. For 1/0 you will need to pull outside the channels. Good luck.

 

[sparkygreen]

The torx for seatbelts is a T50. For 1/0 you will need to pull outside the channels. Good luck.

Ok, Ive got a T-50. Good to go there!

 

[wbluke910]

2019 bighorn etorque with base 6 speaker looking to upgrade dash and doors maybe add a sub under back seats. Been reading through almost every page and can't seem to get a clear answer that doesn't seem conflicted by another answer. Thanks for the time and help. I'm also basic to car audio just have no idea what to buy either.

 

[Moparian]

2019 bighorn etorque with base 6 speaker looking to upgrade dash and doors maybe add a sub under back seats. Been reading through almost every page and can't seem to get a clear answer that doesn't seem conflicted by another answer. Thanks for the time and help. I'm also basic to car audio just have no idea what to buy either.

You can upgrade the dash and doors without getting an amp. The only thing you need if you want to run an amp is the PAC Audio ANC-CH01 and a Line Out Converter. If you want I can make you one depending on what you want to do(just add a sub or amp all of your speakers and add a sub). PM me if you are interested.

 

[sparkygreen]

The torx for seatbelts is a T50. For 1/0 you will need to pull outside the channels. Good luck.

An update for anyone that might benefit from it in the future. I was able to run my 1/0 power through the factory grommet in the firewall, then behind the center console stack into the passenger footwell, then kick panel. From there it fit in both front and rear wire channel trays all the way to the back on the passenger side. It was a bit of a tight fit in some spots, but i re-taped the channel trays when done and it was all good.

Good luck!

 

[Dep668]

For those that have upgraded speakers, did you have to add ccf anywhere? (closed cell foam).

I have some dynamat (cld) that I'll be using on my doors and rear wall. Having trouble sourcing ccf in Ontario, other than Hushmat which is crazy expensive, or Noico Red, which is Polyethylene. Apparently not favorable.

Just curious how bad the rattles are on the panels, and if ccf will actually be needed. I don't plan on using any mlv.