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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

I would use the PAC ANC-CH01, it bypasses the ANC, gives you the speaker outputs you can tie you LOC or DSP into and costs like $25-30 bucks. Not sure why would you spend $250+ on the CH41 when you dont have an amplified system.
Will this work though? The spec sheet only has wiring for 4 speakers. Where do the dash speakers tie in?
 
Thank you for the feedback. If I get the DSR1, I wouldn't need to pick up LOC's , right? Since I put up my prior post, I have mentally committed to redoing the wiring and installing an amp. I think I can manage the door speaker wires fairly well, but do you (or anyone else) know how the dash wires are routed?
No I do not know the wire colors or how it is routed, but most likely you can find the left and right side speaker wires under the kick panels and door jams. Take the speakers out and look at the wire color and search for the in those locations. Or you can find them behind the radio.
 
Thank you for the feedback. If I get the DSR1, I wouldn't need to pick up LOC's , right? Since I put up my prior post, I have mentally committed to redoing the wiring and installing an amp. I think I can manage the door speaker wires fairly well, but do you (or anyone else) know how the dash wires are routed?
The easiest place to pick up the wires are under the driver's seat - also it is advisable to run your LOC (or DSP/LOC) using the non-processed amplified output from the radio (on the way in to the ANC), not after the ANC has mangled it (tapping at or near the speaker on the output side). Here's a diagram with all the wiring colors - good luck!

Note - this site sized down the attached image, message me if you need the full-size / readable version!
 

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Is it just me, or do the door panel retainers seem to be one time use. I just noticed the bottoms of both my doors are loose
 
Is it just me, or do the door panel retainers seem to be one time use. I just noticed the bottoms of both my doors are loose
Never mind, I'm an idiot, I didn't have the big pins snapped all the way in. SMH
 
The easiest place to pick up the wires are under the driver's seat - also it is advisable to run your LOC (or DSP/LOC) using the non-processed amplified output from the radio (on the way in to the ANC), not after the ANC has mangled it (tapping at or near the speaker on the output side). Here's a diagram with all the wiring colors - good luck!

Note - this site sized down the attached image, message me if you need the full-size / readable version!

I appreciate the input. Unfortunately, no ANC module in my V6. I did purchase the DSR1. Seemed to make the most sense from what I have been reading. I've pretty much got it all figured out. I am just concerned about replacing the speaker wire in the dash (not really sure how easy that will be without some extensive disassembly). I'm hoping to somehow use the old wiring as a "lead", but we'll see.
 
I appreciate the input. Unfortunately, no ANC module in my V6. I did purchase the DSR1. Seemed to make the most sense from what I have been reading. I've pretty much got it all figured out. I am just concerned about replacing the speaker wire in the dash (not really sure how easy that will be without some extensive disassembly). I'm hoping to somehow use the old wiring as a "lead", but we'll see.
The driver's side is cake, you can fish straight up to it from down below.

The passenger side on the other hand
There will be swearing! :LOL::LOL::LOL:
The vents and glove box are in the way.

It's possible though - just not easy at all. I recommend heading generally towards the door from the top, and coming down inside that panel next to the kick.
 
The driver's side is cake, you can fish straight up to it from down below.

The passenger side on the other hand
There will be swearing! :LOL::LOL::LOL:
The vents and glove box are in the way.

It's possible though - just not easy at all. I recommend heading generally towards the door from the top, and coming down inside that panel next to the kick.
Brutal. Well, given the current circumstances, I have time. Knowing is part of the battle. Thank you!
 
Has anybody with the base system tried installing a 4ohm/10w resistor on their aftermarket dash speakers? If so did it make an improvement since the factory stereo would see an “8ohm” load. Seems like the 4th gen guys had some success with this on their base systems.
An L-Pad....yes it works. Look up LPad calculator it will tell you the values
You need 2 resistors one across the + and - and the other inline on the positive. Just watch the wattage they can get hot.
 
Need some input, I did the Infinity Ref series upgrade to my Alpine system, 3.5's, the component 6x9 woofer in the front doors, and yesterday I did the 6x9 3-way in the rear doors.
The issue now is that the system is way to bright, too much treble. No amount of equalizer helps. I verified the treble boost on the speakers are set to 0db. At this point I'm about ready to put the stock speakers back in. But, I wonder if the 2-way would be a better choice. The 3-way goes up to 30K hz, and the 2-ways go up to 20K hz.
Anyone have an idea what the stock speakers go up to? I really want a matched speaker system and it was sounding pretty good.
 
how'd you snap them in all the way? I was thinking the same thing, mine are still loose on the bottom lol
I think the small ones are just guides, the bigger ones are what really hold in place, smack the panel pretty hard in those locations to get them to snap back in
 
Sorry if this has been discussed already in this thread....I've been browsing it for 3 days and am only up to page 28. Anyway, base 6 speaker system, I just pulled the first dash speaker and wanted to do the 9V pop test to check the polarity. How are you supposed to do that without alligator clips? The contact points are too far apart on the speaker to make contact to the battery alone. On a side note, the Metra 72-7902 is reversed from what the factory plug had +/-.
 
Sorry if this has been discussed already in this thread....I've been browsing it for 3 days and am only up to page 28. Anyway, base 6 speaker system, I just pulled the first dash speaker and wanted to do the 9V pop test to check the polarity. How are you supposed to do that without alligator clips? The contact points are too far apart on the speaker to make contact to the battery alone. On a side note, the Metra 72-7902 is reversed from what the factory plug had +/-.
The way I used to do it when I installed at circuit city was solder a 5-6 inch length of black and red wire to the respected terminal on the battery then strip a quarter inch or so off of other end and tint it with solder. Works great.
 
Wow, talk about a long thread from many experienced people who have done some amazing things to upgrade their stock systems. I appreciate everyone's input I have been reading over the last 68 pages. All that said, there is a lot of info and acronyms mentioned in these posts that I am not sure I follow. Firstly, I would never considered myself an audiophile, but I do like a nice sound when listening to my mostly country, but sometimes R&B/Hip hop music. Secondly, I am leasing my truck, so I want everything I do to be inexpensive but quality and completely reversible for when or if I return my truck. I was sold on the Infinity Reference series, 3032cfx in the dash and 9632ix in all four doors. Problem is they are all out of stock at Crutchfield, due to the pandemic I assume, and this leaves me in a conundrum. So my questions, does ANC affect the quality of a Bluetooth conversation or just keep the cab quieter for the MDS? And what and where is the LOC everyone is talking about. Due to it being a lease, I probably won't add a sub. Just want better sound from dash and door speakers. BTW, for your reference, I am rocking that amazing base 6 speaker system. Affordable/inexpensive speaker suggestions are appreciated as well.
 
Wow, talk about a long thread from many experienced people who have done some amazing things to upgrade their stock systems. I appreciate everyone's input I have been reading over the last 68 pages. All that said, there is a lot of info and acronyms mentioned in these posts that I am not sure I follow. Firstly, I would never considered myself an audiophile, but I do like a nice sound when listening to my mostly country, but sometimes R&B/Hip hop music. Secondly, I am leasing my truck, so I want everything I do to be inexpensive but quality and completely reversible for when or if I return my truck. I was sold on the Infinity Reference series, 3032cfx in the dash and 9632ix in all four doors. Problem is they are all out of stock at Crutchfield, due to the pandemic I assume, and this leaves me in a conundrum. So my questions, does ANC affect the quality of a Bluetooth conversation or just keep the cab quieter for the MDS? And what and where is the LOC everyone is talking about. Due to it being a lease, I probably won't add a sub. Just want better sound from dash and door speakers. BTW, for your reference, I am rocking that amazing base 6 speaker system. Affordable/inexpensive speaker suggestions are appreciated as well.

Try the Kicker CSC354 for the dash they are great speakers and cost half of the infinity. Since you do have a lease I personally would just upgrade the dash for a brighter stage and add a sub. You can always pull the sub out and add it to your next vehicle or sell it and get some of your money back. The base 6 speaker system is the easiest to upgrade and you will not have to cut any of the factory harnesses. Simply buy a T-harness from net audio link below or make one your self (half price). Now the real trick is the subwoofer Amp and enclosure do your research it could add up quick. The ANC is just for the drone removing it will not impact anything else.

 
The Kicker is a nice upgrade, I didn't even need the Metra adapters when I did my Jeep. I still think you will need the bass blockers for the dash, but I'm not 100% on that
 

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