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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

steve1982 said:
Yeah, I did the same speakers front and rear. For me, the 4 door speakers ended up being wired backwards, all 4. But that's what worked for me and may not totally be the same for you unfortunately. That "Speaker Pop" app at least got them to all be the same. Maybe check them with the app before you pull them out and let us know? I didn't have a chance to do that on mine.
Click to expand...
Will do, but I do not see the Speaker Pop app in the play store, I have an Android.
There's a million different options, but not a one actually says "speaker pop".
 
steve1982 said:
Yeah, I did the same speakers front and rear. For me, the 4 door speakers ended up being wired backwards, all 4. But that's what worked for me and may not totally be the same for you unfortunately. That "Speaker Pop" app at least got them to all be the same. Maybe check them with the app before you pull them out and let us know? I didn't have a chance to do that on mine.
Click to expand...
Which kicker model speakers did you get?
Kicker 43DSC69304 ?
 
rah6887 said:
Will do, but I do not see the Speaker Pop app in the play store, I have an Android.
There's a million different options, but not a one actually says "speaker pop".
Click to expand...
Gotcha. I picked up that tip from somebody around page 10 of this thread. Maybe there's some more info on the comparable Android app back there.
And yes, those are the speakers I grabbed. They had them in stock at Best Buy, so I grabbed 2 sets. (If I had planned on buying them, I would have grabbed them on Crutchfield to get the free adapters.)
 
steve1982 said:
Gotcha. I picked up that tip from somebody around page 10 of this thread. Maybe there's some more info on the comparable Android app back there.
And yes, those are the speakers I grabbed. They had them in stock at Best Buy, so I grabbed 2 sets. (If I had planned on buying them, I would have grabbed them on Crutchfield to get the free adapters.)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info.
Crutchfield shows the Metra 71-050 adapter included with the Kickers, seems like I read on here somewhere that you can get an adapter that reverses the polarity for the doors.
Whoever engineered all of this mess needs to be throat punched...
 
I have the base 8.4 with 6 speaker system. I recently installed dash speakers 3.5" Infinity REF-3032CFX and volume over 22 to 23 and speakers pop and cut-out. I have changed polarity on speakers and still same issue. Crutchfield will replace speakers but can't believe they are the issue. If anyone has any insight I would appreciate it. This thread is full of good info, just can't seem to figure this out. Thanks
 
MBORO19RAM said:
I have the base 8.4 with 6 speaker system. I recently installed dash speakers 3.5" Infinity REF-3032CFX and volume over 22 to 23 and speakers pop and cut-out. I have changed polarity on speakers and still same issue. Crutchfield will replace speakers but can't believe they are the issue. If anyone has any insight I would appreciate it. This thread is full of good info, just can't seem to figure this out. Thanks
Click to expand...

Did you install the filters that came with the speakers? The in-line bass blockers. It’s possible you are overdriving them. I’d also make sure your connections are solid.
 
Patsy1099 said:
Did you install the filters that came with the speakers? The in-line bass blockers. It’s possible you are overdriving them. I’d also make sure your connections are solid.
Click to expand...

They did not come with any extra in-line bass blockers, only the ones soldered into speaker itself. All connections are tight. These speakers are 2 ohm verse the stock ones 8 ohm... They are much louder and clearer but start popping and cutting out at higher volume.
 
MBORO19RAM said:
I have the base 8.4 with 6 speaker system. I recently installed dash speakers 3.5" Infinity REF-3032CFX and volume over 22 to 23 and speakers pop and cut-out. I have changed polarity on speakers and still same issue. Crutchfield will replace speakers but can't believe they are the issue. If anyone has any insight I would appreciate it. This thread is full of good info, just can't seem to figure this out. Thanks
Click to expand...
Likely a power issue. Do the dash speakers seem overwhelming vs the others?

sman301 sman301 sman301
 
sman301 said:
Likely a power issue. Do the dash speakers seem overwhelming vs the others?

sman301 sman301 sman301
Click to expand...

They are quite a bit louder than stock. Did you have any issues with these? I see you have the same form your signature. Did yours have bass blockers?
 
MBORO19RAM said:
They did not come with any extra in-line bass blockers, only the ones soldered into speaker itself. All connections are tight. These speakers are 2 ohm verse the stock ones 8 ohm... They are much louder and clearer but start popping and cutting out at higher volume.
Click to expand...

They should have come with bass blockers in the box, mine did. Thats from Infinity not Crutchfield. I know other members have not used them and I don’t remember issues but it’s one less fracture point when cranking the volume, especially if adding an amp down the road. Are both speakers doing it?
 
Where did you guys install the remote turn on wire? I'm a bit of a novice at this.
 
MBORO19RAM said:
They are quite a bit louder than stock. Did you have any issues with these? I see you have the same form your signature. Did yours have bass blockers?
Click to expand...
No I didn't change my dash out yet. Not sure where you saw that.
I'm still trying to figure out the best way to build my audio setup.
I see a lot of people on here installing bass blockers to reduce the output of the dash since the stock speaker are 8ohms and most aftermarket are 4ohms.
 
sman301 said:
Where did you guys install the remote turn on wire? I'm a bit of a novice at this.
Click to expand...

the remote turn in wire is simply “switched 12v” which means connecting it to a fuse or wire that gets “switched” on when you turn your ignition on as opposed to a power source that is always “hot”. You wouldn’t want that because then your amp would stay on when your truck is off. It’s the same as connecting a radar detector or dashcam, etc., just a switched 12v power source. Now many modern amps don’t need the remote turn on wire if they can accept “High level inputs” since this will tell the amp to “turn on” but I have found that running a remote wire seems to work better because you are less likely to get a thump when the amp powers up.
 
RichInMN said:
A "Micro 2" "Add a circuit" fuse tap in slot 66 will do the trick.
Click to expand...
Are you talking about at the fuse box? Sorry not very versed with car electronics although I'm very good with other electronics.

sman301 sman301 sman301
 
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