5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

[wildh24]

Thanks! I think the new dash corners are just great and will probably switch out the doors if it bothers me. Now that I know they are bass only, it will help me adjust if need be.
Great info!

For what it's worth, I noticed an even bigger difference in sound quality when switching out the 6x9s than I did the 3.5s. The bass response and depth was a drastic improvement.

 

[ksn240]

For what it's worth, I noticed an even bigger difference in sound quality when switching out the 6x9s than I did the 3.5s. The bass response and depth was a drastic improvement.

The factory 6x9s are awful. Swapping them out makes a huge difference. Except now my door likes to rattle from the better speakers. Gotta open it back up and put in some dynamat and felt tape.

 

[Hackmunch]

someone should try and repin the rear doors(full range) with the front doors (400hz and below) this way the front doors are full range. obviously in surround mode it would create issues and fading wouldnt work but other than that i bet it would sound better up front.

 

[VaderRebel]

For what it's worth, I noticed an even bigger difference in sound quality when switching out the 6x9s than I did the 3.5s. The bass response and depth was a drastic improvement.

I believe it. I just don't have the stones to take my doors apart. I'll live with the mid and treble improvements for now... maybe down the road when the "new truck honeymoon" is over I'll really get into modding things.

 

[ksn240]

I believe it. I just don't have the stones to take my doors apart. I'll live with the mid and treble improvements for now... maybe down the road when the "new truck honeymoon" is over I'll really get into modding things.

It’s actually not that bad. I’ve taken the tears off twice already and about to do it again to add sound deadener. Be careful and take your time and you won’t break anything. Be careful around the middle of it. The panel is actually 2 separate pieces with a seal in the middle and rivets holding them together.

 

[Walski]

@kirkelli - Thanks for the write up! I have focal 165's in the truck right now. An Audio Control D-6.1200 under the rear seat and a T harness from LLJ customs in the mail. I can't wait to hook it all up. I guess I need to find some of those load resistors. :/

Llj told me there harness has the resistors built in. Also saw a video on 5starstereo where the pac rep said they found the resistors were not needed on the 5thgens

 

[Walski]

I thought the basic 6 speaker system has an ANC unit where the amp goes for the premium systems. Same connection, but just ANC instead of an amp.

Mine does not

 

[Whiskey_tango]

Mine does not

Maybe due to lack of Hemi?

 

[wildh24]

The factory 6x9s are awful. Swapping them out makes a huge difference. Except now my door likes to rattle from the better speakers. Gotta open it back up and put in some dynamat and felt tape.

I matted them as well. Paid a lot of attention to the panel where the speakers mount and applied on both sides in that area. I'm sure overkill, but I have no rattles in the doors and 6x9s really can put out bass down to 50hz.

I also have removed panels three times. It's not bad, but your right about the two panels and being careful. Also a trick to get the door latch cable off, but once you figure it out, it's easy peasy.

 

[VaderRebel]

Yeah, easy peezy until I slip once, scratch or rip something and the swearing and the murdering begins. Like I said, I'll leave the thrill seeking to you courageous folks with possibly more skill or patience than I have.

But at least I have all the information one could want or need to do the job when I'm ready!

 

[wildh24]

Yeah, easy peezy until I slip once, scratch or rip something and the swearing and the murdering begins. Like I said, I'll leave the thrill seeking to you courageous folks with possibly more skill or patience than I have.

But at least I have all the information one could want or need to do the job when I'm ready!

Wise man! I often think that's not hard and then swear at myself profusely after.

If you ever get down to ND and want to try, maybe I can help you. Takes about 45 minutes.

 

[VaderRebel]

Wise man! I often think that's not hard and then swear at myself profusely after.

If you ever get down to ND and want to try, maybe I can help you. Takes about 45 minutes.

That is a kind offer! Spring Break shopping may turn into "Speaker Swap Weekend" in 2020!

 

[mch]

I matted them as well. Paid a lot of attention to the panel where the speakers mount and applied on both sides in that area. I'm sure overkill, but I have no rattles in the doors and 6x9s really can put out bass down to 50hz.

I also have removed panels three times. It's not bad, but your right about the two panels and being careful. Also a trick to get the door latch cable off, but once you figure it out, it's easy peasy.

You have any pictures of what you did and what did you use for the sound deadening?

 

[wildh24]

I used Noico sound mat off Amazon. They're all pretty similar and I've had good luck with it in other projects. I don't have any pictures unfortunately.

All the stuff really does is add mass to whatever material you stick it too. It's not going to really lower ambient noise... It's not really designed to. It does however change the resonant frequency of materials so that they don't rattle, buzz, or echo as much. A metal door panel is a great example. Knock on it with and without damping material and you'll immediately notice.

If you use it, I've found you don't have to go overboard. A couple sheets on a door panel does as much as plastering the entire thing most of time and weighs a lot less. If you removed the 6x9 you can reach into the door cavity and apply directly to the back of the outer metal door panels. The 6x9s themselves are mounted to a molded plastic barrier. I applied small pieces to the inside and outside of the mold. Again, this is simply to add mass and keep it from vibrating. I then applied pieces were I could to faces of the barrier and backside of the door panel itself. (take notice of the air bags... You don't want to cover those).

I test a lot of areas simply by knocking on panels. If it goes ding or dong, I add a bit of material to the back side and knock on it again. If it then goes thud or thump, I move on. Adding bunch more does very little.

If you want to lower road or wind nose, you need to use other materials such as MLV.

Hope this helps.

 

[YoAdrian]

I may start a fresh thread for this, but I know some smart folks are following this one, plus its on topic (!), so I’ll start here...

Has anyone considered integrating the OEM HK 10” subwoofer (form fitted nicely behind the seat) into an after market install? As @Billet1500 4x4 says below it appears to be a single coil 2 ohm sub (unlike the triple coil Alpine sub ) so you would get the benefit of the OEM compact form fit box + the benefit of simple single coil/channel wiring. Mopar part # 68315544AA looks like it’s around $150... which seems nearly worth it if only for the box. May need to add the fasteners too I’m guessing. (update would need 2 x 06105102AA and 2 x 06508332AA fasteners, total ~$10)

So... thoughts? If I could add the 10” sub (even with its limited box volume) to my six speaker setup and have it all tucked away I might just have to smash my piggy bank... again...

2 ohm on everything. Heres the breakdown on the alpine and HK.

Alpine
3 - 3.5" mids in the dash
2 - 6x9 front doors
2 - 6x9 rear doors
2 - 3.5" mids in the rear head liner
1 - 10" sub
506 watts total with a 12 channel amplifier. each speaker is on it's channel and the subwoofer is a triple voice coil so each voice coil is on it's own channel. The lack of tweeters in the system make for the crappy highs.

HK
3 - 3.5" coaxial with 1" tweeter in the dash
2 - 3.5" coaxial with 1" tweeter in the front doors
2 - 6x9 front doors
2 - 6x9 rear doors
2 - 3.5" coaxials with 1" tweeter in the rear head liner
1 - 10" sub
900 watts total with a 12 channel amplifier. 12 speaker locations, single voice coil sub, the 3.5 and 1" tweeter share a channel at each location. Bringing total speaker count to 19.

 

[Patsy1099]

I may start a fresh thread for this, but I know some smart folks are following this one, plus its on topic (!), so I’ll start here...

Has anyone considered integrating the OEM HK 10” subwoofer (form fitted nicely behind the seat) into an after market install? As @Billet1500 4x4 says below it appears to be a single coil 2 ohm sub (unlike the triple coil Alpine sub ) so you would get the benefit of the OEM compact form fit box + the benefit of simple single coil/channel wiring. Mopar part # 68315544AA looks like it’s around $150... which seems nearly worth it if only for the box. May need to add the fasteners too I’m guessing. (update would need 2 x 06105102AA and 2 x 06508332AA fasteners, total ~$10)

So... thoughts? If I could add the 10” sub (even with its limited box volume) to my six speaker setup and have it all tucked away I might just have to smash my piggy bank... again...

Interesting idea. Will that sub box fit all ram models? I would think the cab frames are all identical but wasn’t sure if cutouts or wiring etc made it a no-go for some models. My rebel for instance doesn’t have sliding seats so i’d Have to unbolt/remove the seats to get back there. Do you happen to know the dimensions of the space available back there for the sub enclosure (maybe we can fit other options)? Last question, do you think being behind the seat restricts airflow/sound and that having the sub under the seat would be better or is that a non issue?

 

[wildh24]

Interesting idea. Will that sub box fit all ram models? I would think the cab frames are all identical but wasn’t sure if cutouts or wiring etc made it a no-go for some models. My rebel for instance doesn’t have sliding seats so i’d Have to unbolt/remove the seats to get back there. Do you happen to know the dimensions of the space available back there for the sub enclosure (maybe we can fit other options)? Last question, do you think being behind the seat restricts airflow/sound and that having the sub under the seat would be better or is that a non issue?

Boy...I know where you're going with this, but having used that sub in my HK setup, it's just not great. In terms of using the enclosure with a different sub like the JL 10tw1, that's a maybe. But I don't know what the volume of that box is. It's pretty small.

Having heard a proper size and powered JL 10tw1 compared to the stock sub, I'd not waste my time or money on it and just build or buy a box, sub, and amp. I actually preferred no sub to having the factory one.... I'm not sure if the enclosure, how it's tuned, or what but the factory sub blows out the mid bass and sounds like a bongo. It overpowers everything.

If you're interested, I'm building a new box to house 2 subs and won't have a need for the other... It's designed to fit in the within the factory storage system and not interfere with bins.

 

[YoAdrian]

Will that sub box fit all ram models? I would think the cab frames are all identical but...

Good Qs as usual Patsy, and valid concerns. I would also think they’re the same cabs but... that’s one thing to confirm. Could compare photos of our removed seats with HK folks.

Do you happen to know the dimensions of the space available back there for the sub enclosure (maybe we can fit other options)?

Last question, do you think being behind the seat restricts airflow/sound and that having the sub under the seat would be better or is that a non issue?

I know the space is very shallow and irregular, but I don’t have any measurements; that’s why the OEM box appeals to me so much; if the cabs are same I wouldn’t have to worry about any custom box design.

I’m sure neither the size nor positioning is optimum for deep bass, but its value is in its compactness. It fits in an unused/unusable space.

Now to dig up the post on how to remove the seats!

 

[YoAdrian]

Here’s a nice post (link) from @John Hable showing the back of the cab wall with the HK sub hanging there. Not sure which truck model/cab he has the HK in though.

 

[YoAdrian]

If you're interested, I'm building a new box to house 2 subs and won't have a need for the other... It's designed to fit in the within the factory storage system and not interfere with bins.

I suspect there will be much interest, including my own. Are your pics already posted?

Adding this link to a sweet video by @zx3junglist showing how to lean the Limited’s rear 40/20/40 seats forward (not so easy for the 60/40!), and the limited rear panel’s carpet cover: link