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5th Gen Stock Stereo Upgrade Options?

I seriously doubt either the HK or the Alpine system would come even close to satisfying the volume and rumble I prefer. I'm used to having a 12" sub for bass, so there's no way a factory sub would even come close to that. Not to mention I am trying to keep the legacy of my 32 year old Fosgate Power 300 amp alive and well. :)

I will be keeping an eye on these forums on a regular basis until the time comes. I'm hoping any kinks people have had will be ironed out by then...
Get the Alpine system. Replace the factory speakers and leave them running off the factory amp. Then get a stand-alone sub and run it off your Fosgate amp. You’ll be happy.
 
^^^I think the cleanest and easiest solution is the PAC Amppro to get your sub signal. That would is as close to just an easy old school plug and play piece as you get. It adds a bit of cost but is about as simple as it comes and would really reduce the chances of noise.
PAC Amppro will not work with basic 6 ch system as there is no Amps.. In either case, w/ or w/o factory Amp., and you intend to add aftermarket speakers & Amps, still better to take your feed directly from factory radio to a DSP and bypass any factory amp. This is one less conversion and noise source than using an PAC. I can tell there are still some people skeptical on using a DSP (i.e. FIX 86) to feed their aftermarket amps.. And if you are using a non turntable AMP(s) you should be. In other words.. you will defiantly need to be able to fine tune your system.. I have a complete aftermarket system while maintaining my factory head unit. The head unit works as the factory intended, however music coming out of my system is mind-blowing. I went my system upgrade with intention to buy an aftermarket Head Unit i.e. Alpine or Kenwood, if i couldn't get decent sounds using the factory head unit. After completing my install, there is no need switching out the factory head unit. It sounds as good or better then the aftermarkets mentioned above. Now,, if you don't go with a tune-able system, then i can't make this claim.
 
PAC Amppro will not work with basic 6 ch system as there is no Amps.. In either case, w/ or w/o factory Amp., and you intend to add aftermarket speakers & Amps, still better to take your feed directly from factory radio to a DSP and bypass any factory amp. This is one less conversion and noise source than using an PAC. I can tell there are still some people skeptical on using a DSP (i.e. FIX 86) to feed their aftermarket amps.. And if you are using a non turntable AMP(s) you should be. In other words.. you will defiantly need to be able to fine tune your system.. I have a complete aftermarket system while maintaining my factory head unit. The head unit works as the factory intended, however music coming out of my system is mind-blowing. I went my system upgrade with intention to buy an aftermarket Head Unit i.e. Alpine or Kenwood, if i couldn't get decent sounds using the factory head unit. After completing my install, there is no need switching out the factory head unit. It sounds as good or better then the aftermarkets mentioned above. Now,, if you don't go with a tune-able system, then i can't make this claim.

I thought the basic 6 speaker system has an ANC unit where the amp goes for the premium systems. Same connection, but just ANC instead of an amp.
 
I thought the basic 6 speaker system has an ANC unit where the amp goes for the premium systems. Same connection, but just ANC instead of an amp.
i have the Cummings.. I believe the Hemi's have the ANC but not 100% sure. In any case,, i would take your feed from the radio rather than the PAC. One less noise source and harmonic contributor
 
I have no doubt that running the Fix 86 or DSR1 plus a DSP and/or amps with DSP would allow a person to really tweak to ones tastes, but that may or may not be the objectives of everyone.

Like a lot of things, I think it's important to determine what it is that you want to accomplish and what is your budget (in dollars and/or time).

I'm definitely curious on the approach. Would you mind giving us a run down of your system and about the cost of each component so people can know what they'd be in for?

Me personally:
Infinity tested reference factory replacements
-. 3.5s @$50/pr Amazon
- 6x9s @105/pr
- PAC Amppro @ $220
- Pioneer 8701 @ $122
- Cables etc @$100
- JL 10tw1 @ $200/ea
- Box Materials @$100
 
Don't be paranoid. I have an Alpine X209 w/JL Audio amp & Morel Speakers in my Jeep. The factory system in my Truck w/ the FIX 86 feeding my amps sound as good or better than the Alpine in my Jeep. In fact, you will get a cleaner output with FIX than using the PAK simply because the PAK would be doing an additional conversion. The factory radios with Amps are taking the high level out to feed factory amp. No different that the FIX 86. However if you use the PAK method you are then converting once again to LOW level RCA.. Defiantly go with a Tunable DSP amplifier such as Alpiine or JL Audio. This is the trick to getting good sounding output.


I'm running an audio control DSP - The stock system needed a TON of EQ adjustment. It's crazy how much they tune the output to work with really crappy stock speakers.

For those of you with a Fix 86, was there any need for 'timing adjustment' ? Or just EQ?
 
I have no doubt that running the Fix 86 or DSR1 plus a DSP and/or amps with DSP would allow a person to really tweak to ones tastes, but that may or may not be the objectives of everyone.

Like a lot of things, I think it's important to determine what it is that you want to accomplish and what is your budget (in dollars and/or time).

I'm definitely curious on the approach. Would you mind giving us a run down of your system and about the cost of each component so people can know what they'd be in for?

Me personally:
Infinity tested reference factory replacements
-. 3.5s @$50/pr Amazon
- 6x9s @105/pr
- PAC Amppro @ $220
- Pioneer 8701 @ $122
- Cables etc @$100
- JL 10tw1 @ $200/ea
- Box Materials @$100
i have a parts list and build diagram posted on an earlier post. And i think i also mentioned on earlier post that i am a Music buff and require the best sounds in my vehicles. Most people that i know,, start upgrading their car stereo equipment and next thing they are knee deep, not to mention, wasted money during the process. I learned years ago,, if you are going to do something you enjoy,, 'just do it right' the first time.. I think their are a lot of folks here that share that same concept.. My parts list totals over $4500. But one does not need to spend that amount if they wish not too, it's personal choice and a budget to allow the expense. The two major parts to begin what i have are: JL Audio DSP $215 on Amazon and the radio Harness $75. You can build almost anything you want from those two starting points and not worry about changing them out when you upgrade down the road. This will also give you the cleanest input to aftermarket amps, which is highly desired considering we are retaining the factory head unit. One could bypass the harness and tab into the factory harness, but $75 offered an easy clean method to do that. And one could also restore everything back to factory very easily if warranty work was needed with this harness. My real intention with my post is to get the message out to folks that desire to maintain their factory head unit, for obvious reasons, and want pure clean professional sounds at the competitive level. If you want to do that with your factory head unit,, you can do that. :)
 
I'm running an audio control DSP - The stock system needed a TON of EQ adjustment. It's crazy how much they tune the output to work with really crappy stock speakers.

For those of you with a Fix 86, was there any need for 'timing adjustment' ? Or just EQ?
The Fix gave me a flat output that i ran directly into my VXi amps. The beauty about these Amps, you can tune them via Laptop or Tablet and also set delay for speakers for optimum sound preference. I can only suggest that you visit JL Audios web site and down load the free tuning software. There are 'dummy' set up files that will let you play with the tuning ability. This will give you a really good idea what these Amps can do and i know you will appreciate. JL Auido stuff is pricey and i have found that Amazon is the best place for JL Audio deals,
 
The Fix gave me a flat output that i ran directly into my VXi amps. The beauty about these Amps, you can tune them via Laptop or Tablet and also set delay for speakers for optimum sound preference. I can only suggest that you visit JL Audios web site and down load the free tuning software. There are 'dummy' set up files that will let you play with the tuning ability. This will give you a really good idea what these Amps can do and i know you will appreciate. JL Auido stuff is pricey and i have found that Amazon is the best place for JL Audio deals,

The audio control DSP's do the same thing. Laptop software and auto-eq with pink noise input (which is absolutely required with these uConnect units) - I was just curious if the uconnect needing "timing correction"

This: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-u...FiX-The-Importance-of-Factory-Time-Correction
 
The audio control DSP's do the same thing. Laptop software and auto-eq with pink noise input (which is absolutely required with these uConnect units) - I was just curious if the uconnect needing "timing correction"

This: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-u...FiX-The-Importance-of-Factory-Time-Correction
Yes, Factory RAM radios have delay built into them for various speakers. Very easy to correct with the JL Audio Software and VXi Amps. And a must if you are going to upgrade all six speakers in their factory locations and adding tweeters into the mix. I installed my Tweeters on the pull out panel to by the mirros on both sides. Im driving the 8 speakers with the JL VXi 8 CH amp and the Sub with Vxi Mono amp..
 
Cool. I might pick up a fix86 to put in front of my AC.
 
Can somebody confirm if swapping the dash corners on the Alpine 9 speaker system you have to repin both out of phase or just driver side? I installed Infinity 3.5's and they are much brighter, but my doors got quiet... wondering if phase is the issue.
 
Can somebody confirm if swapping the dash corners on the Alpine 9 speaker system you have to repin both out of phase or just driver side? I installed Infinity 3.5's and they are much brighter, but my doors got quiet... wondering if phase is the issue.
The front driver side dash speaker IS in proper phase. The entire rest of the system is "technically" wired backwards and out of phase. It shouldn't have caused your doors to get quieter, maybe they just overpower it. In the Alpine system each speaker is on its own separate channel, unlike the base 6 speaker system where the dash and door are wired in parallel.
 
Actually, they are physically quieter... muffled, barely audible with your ear pressed against the door. They weren't before the Infinity 3022's went in.

Confused.
 
Actually, they are physically quieter... muffled, barely audible with your ear pressed against the door. They weren't before the Infinity 3022's went in.

Confused.
That is odd. Are you just talking about the front doors, or the rear as well? The fronts are bass only and not full range. I didn’t notice it until I went to replacing everything. I’ve swapped all mine out without issue with no volume loss or drone. I can’t think of anything that would have made the doors quieter though. Even phase for the 3.5s really doesn’t matter a whole lot, especially since the one is wired differently than the rest.
 
That is odd. Are you just talking about the front doors, or the rear as well? The fronts are bass only and not full range. I didn’t notice it until I went to replacing everything. I’ve swapped all mine out without issue with no volume loss or drone. I can’t think of anything that would have made the doors quieter though. Even phase for the 3.5s really doesn’t matter a whole lot, especially since the one is wired differently than the rest.
That explains it. I didn't realize the front doors were bass only. Thank you! Maybe my brain was playing tricks with me before I swapped out the corners... now that they're so bright and clear they probably do over power the front doors. Would you recommend I use the capacitors that came with the Infinity's to balance it out a bit?
 
That explains it. I didn't realize the front doors were bass only. Thank you! Maybe my brain was playing tricks with me before I swapped out the corners... now that they're so bright and clear they probably do over power the front doors. Would you recommend I use the capacitors that came with the Infinity's to balance it out a bit?
I don't think your going to notice anything by installing the Caps. They are provided to cut low frequencies and I believe the system is already doing that. Have you tried adjusting the Bass on the EQ? Not sure if it'll help, or just make the awful stock subwoofer even more boomy.
 
I don't think your going to notice anything by installing the Caps. They are provided to cut low frequencies and I believe the system is already doing that. Have you tried adjusting the Bass on the EQ? Not sure if it'll help, or just make the awful stock subwoofer even more boomy.
Thanks! I think the new dash corners are just great and will probably switch out the doors if it bothers me. Now that I know they are bass only, it will help me adjust if need be.
Great info!
 

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