2025 Ram 1500 Current Owners - Discussion, Feedback, and Problems

[JDGRam19]

So my 25 limited HO has a CEL on now at 4300 miles. I’ve had one before but went away after a day or so, probably misfire or wrong octane fuel. This time I know something is off…the truck acts like it has no power and the turbo does not exist. I can lay it on the floor and it takes forever to get to 60mph.

 

[RamTruckMan]

I think all it does is turn on front defrost with fan on high and temp to max. I wish it had actual heat in the lower windshield, my wife's Honda pilot does and it works great. Unrelated but the forward facing collision camera does seem to have heat in the windshield right in front of it.

I think it’s actually similar to my Wife’s Highlander where there are rear window type defrost strips/loop under where the wipers rest to free them if they’re icebound.

 

[CobraKai]

So my 25 limited HO has a CEL on now at 4300 miles. I’ve had one before but went away after a day or so, probably misfire or wrong octane fuel. This time I know something is off…the truck acts like it has no power and the turbo does not exist. I can lay it on the floor and it takes forever to get to 60mph.

Did you get under the hood at all? I have a similar issue with a jeep wrangler with the turbo 4 cylinder and it was the boost pressure hose blew off or something stupid once I limped it over to the dealer. may be worth looking in there see if anything came loose..

 

[CobraKai]

Am I alone with this? Dead Battery after truck sits for 3 days. 2025 Laramie. 5000 miles. In for service 4 times and it still does it. 1. Replaced the battery, 2. Loose battery cable (sure it was). 3. 10 days in without remedy. 4. Replaced the anti-lock brake module. 5. I have not returned it for service yet.

I have just filed for the Lemon law. I have little faith in the service techs. I searched this forum but no post on this issue.

I haven't seen any other posts recently from people having that issue but that sounds like a parasitic draw on the battery to me... something staying on and not powering down on shut off maybe? I've seen in other forums issues with wireless phone chargers and outlets not shutting off...

 

[Flattire]

The dash periodically wakes up. Yes, parasitic draw. That's why they replaced the brake module.

 

[kapinallinen2]

The dash periodically wakes up. Yes, parasitic draw. That's why they replaced the brake module.

So the `25s are also suffering from random parasitic draw, good times troubleshooting that.
Would be interesting to know their troubleshooting methodology that led them to the brake module...

 

[Laramieblue]

Am I alone with this? Dead Battery after truck sits for 3 days. 2025 Laramie. 5000 miles. In for service 4 times and it still does it. 1. Replaced the battery, 2. Loose battery cable (sure it was). 3. 10 days in without remedy. 4. Replaced the anti-lock brake module. 5. I have not returned it for service yet.

I have just filed for the Lemon law. I have little faith in the service techs. I searched this forum but no post on this issue.

My 2 cents for what it is worth....
I bought a DC clamp on amp meter (Klein Tools CL390 AC/DC Digital Clamp Meter, now on sale for $68 on Amazon) to monitor the current when my truck is shut down to see if I am having any parasitic current issues. I would advise you do the same to determine if you are having this issue and how much you are drawing. Typically the parasitic current should be less than 0.05 (50ma) when truck is completely shut down. Keep in mind any of the truck's "Features" that are remote controlled, phone activated, voice activated to bring the truck alive will draw power just to be in that listening state.

 

[RamTruckMan]

My 2 cents for what it is worth....
I bought a DC clamp on amp meter (Klein Tools CL390 AC/DC Digital Clamp Meter, now on sale for $68 on Amazon) to monitor the current when my truck is shut down to see if I am having any parasitic current issues. I would advise you do the same to determine if you are having this issue and how much you are drawing. Typically the parasitic current should be less than 0.05 (50ma) when truck is completely shut down. Keep in mind any of the truck's "Features" that are remote controlled, phone activated, voice activated to bring the truck alive will draw power just to be in that listening state.

Additionally, some of the USBs stay powered after the truck is off. I recommend not having things plugged in those

 

[2025 rebel junk]

Am I alone with this? Dead Battery after truck sits for 3 days. 2025 Laramie. 5000 miles. In for service 4 times and it still does it. 1. Replaced the battery, 2. Loose battery cable (sure it was). 3. 10 days in without remedy. 4. Replaced the anti-lock brake module. 5. I have not returned it for service yet.

I have just filed for the Lemon law. I have little faith in the service techs. I searched this forum but no post on this issue.

I know yes there is many threads on your problem.New ones are junk hit or miss.There are many things to do to keep volts up. We should just be able to start and drive off but you can't. My volt will be 14.4 no auto lights or anything auto no wifi shut everything off even touch screen keep keys far away from truck when off.If i turn heat on high all seat warmers defrost and drive fast 13.0 13.3 my volts will be. Something aint right . I know for a fact if my truck sat for days these batteries would die. So slow driving cold start warm up for 4 mins no accessories on volts stay higher. GOOD luck on lemon law let us know how it goes. I wanna take this 80000 dollar paper weight drive it thru the dealership and service mangers house but i love my freedom .

 

[JDGRam19]

Checked yesterday and everything looked fine

 

[RamTruckMan]

On a different topic: I can’t wait for someone to crack the new CAN Bus encryption (AlphaOBD style). How ridiculous is it that there’s old style cruise control AND adaptive cruise control BOTH available on the steering wheel??? What an accident waiting to happen. Hopefully, when they do crack it, I’ll be able to turn off regular cruise control and the obnoxious triple horn when I get out of the truck with the key in my pocket. Oh, also, I’d turn on Bambi mode.
Thank you for coming to my TED Talk.

 

[2025Rebelguy]

Am I alone with this? Dead Battery after truck sits for 3 days. 2025 Laramie. 5000 miles. In for service 4 times and it still does it. 1. Replaced the battery, 2. Loose battery cable (sure it was). 3. 10 days in without remedy. 4. Replaced the anti-lock brake module. 5. I have not returned it for service yet.

I have just filed for the Lemon law. I have little faith in the service techs. I searched this forum but no post on this issue.

my truck is sitting at the dealer now, after sitting overnight on Christmas totally dead batteries. 1400 miles.

 

[Laramieblue]

Am I alone with this? Dead Battery after truck sits for 3 days. 2025 Laramie. 5000 miles. In for service 4 times and it still does it. 1. Replaced the battery, 2. Loose battery cable (sure it was). 3. 10 days in without remedy. 4. Replaced the anti-lock brake module. 5. I have not returned it for service yet.

I have just filed for the Lemon law. I have little faith in the service techs. I searched this forum but no post on this issue.

My Tacoma's battery would die after sitting for a couple of weeks so being an Electronics Engineer I did some research and discovered the newer vehicles have many computers constantly drawing power from the battery. This continual draw is called Parasitic current, and this is what I found for the amount of current draw. “Typically, the normal amount of parasitic draw is between 50 and 85 milliamps in newer cars and less than 50 milliamps for older cars.”
What I did to determine what my truck was drawing is to connect a clamp meter on DC amp setting. Then I closed all the doors, shut down the engine, removed the key and I was able to watch the current draw go down and finally stabilize at 62 milliamps. Car batteries are designed to have lots of starting or cranking current but very little current for being continuously drawn upon to keep electronics powered up. I looked at my batteries' Amp hour rating and divided it by the 62 milliamps and the result was about 325 hours or around 2 weeks.

If you like to troubleshoot the issue yourself you could connect up the meter then pull out one fuse at a time from each fuse box and see which pulled fuse reduces the current draw, that would be the bad circuit. You might just find one circuit or fuse doing all the power drain or several fuses draining the power. At least you can now go to the dealer and tell them which fuses are causing all the power draw. Just make sure you don't have any electronics powered up or truck doors open which will activate some computers or lights.

You would think the dealer's service department could do this but sometimes the Manufacturer tells the dealers what they can do to troubleshoot trucks and what they are not allowed to do. Perhaps this type of troubleshooting which is very detailed and will take several hours to complete is not allowed. This may be why they tell you they can't find the problem, perhaps the service department doesn't have techs that are trained to troubleshoot or repair the complex electronics.

Next time you go in for service for a dead battery ask them if they have done a parasitic draw test and what are the results that were noted in the service log. Make sure you get the results, that will show they did the test. If it is above the limits ask them what troubleshooting they did to find the source of the draw. The steps above are the easiest way to single out the cause, if they didn't do it then ask what steps they did do to find the source of the current draw.

Good luck and hope novel this didn't put you to sleep.....

 

[Flattire]

"sometimes the Manufacturer tells the dealers what they can do to troubleshoot trucks and what they are not allowed to do. Perhaps this type of troubleshooting which is very detailed and will take several hours to complete is not allowed."

Unacceptable. I'm a biomedical engineer and I agree with your diagnostic procedure. If the OEM isn't allowed or can't facilitate a repair, I'm happy to get rid of this POS. They've had the truck 21 of the last 30 days.

 

[Gregbj33]

Rough Country 3.5 with the M1 struts. Sitting pretty
View attachment 193926

Looks great!! Hopefully mine will be going on tomorrow so I can put on my 35s from my 2022.

 

[Ramboy13]

Forged Blue

Is that Forged Blue with Night Edition?? I didn't think that was available.

 

[RamTruckMan]

Is that Forged Blue with Night Edition?? I didn't think that was available.

I don’t think it’s the Night edition, grill has chrome.

 

[Ramboy13]

I don’t think it’s the Night edition, grill has chrome.

I honestly thought that was reflection from the garage lights. But you're probably right.

 

[Laramieblue]

"sometimes the Manufacturer tells the dealers what they can do to troubleshoot trucks and what they are not allowed to do. Perhaps this type of troubleshooting which is very detailed and will take several hours to complete is not allowed."

Unacceptable. I'm a biomedical engineer and I agree with your diagnostic procedure. If the OEM isn't allowed or can't facilitate a repair, I'm happy to get rid of this POS. They've had the truck 21 of the last 30 days.

Reason why I said that about Manufacturers is from life experience, not just BS. I had 2 bolt heads break off my rear ring gear while driving and blew a hole in my rear differential housing. Long story short when the Toyota dealership replaced the differential unit (ring & pinion gears all one package) I asked them to check the torque of the pinion nut preload pressure, check the ring-pinion gear gap (backlash) and apply special cream to check wear pattern between gears. What I consider standard quality control checks of final assembly and to ensure proper fit and wear between ring-pinion gears. I offered to pay dealer for T&M to make those QC checks and give me the results before assembling new axle. Dealer said Toyota corporate would not allow their mechanics to perform such task nor do the mechanics have the proper tools to make those checks.
Was that all just BS, not sure but you make the call there.
If true then corporate control over dealership's service centers could be across the board and not just Toyota.

Considering all the dead battery issues in this forum us truck owners need to be asking the service center more questions on what exactly they did to troubleshoot the issue and why they replaced what they did.

Get detailed service reports of what exactly you complained about and the details of what the mechanic did to troubleshoot the issue. The standard warranty report is not detailed enough and has way too many codes in there very few can understand.

I have been through this before and NO longer accepting their standard vague responses as answers! Please don't do the same.

 

[2025 rebel junk]

Reason why I said that about Manufacturers is from life experience, not just BS. I had 2 bolt heads break off my rear ring gear while driving and blew a hole in my rear differential housing. Long story short when the Toyota dealership replaced the differential unit (ring & pinion gears all one package) I asked them to check the torque of the pinion nut preload pressure, check the ring-pinion gear gap (backlash) and apply special cream to check wear pattern between gears. What I consider standard quality control checks of final assembly and to ensure proper fit and wear between ring-pinion gears. I offered to pay dealer for T&M to make those QC checks and give me the results before assembling new axle. Dealer said Toyota corporate would not allow their mechanics to perform such task nor do the mechanics have the proper tools to make those checks.
Was that all just BS, not sure but you make the call there.
If true then corporate control over dealership's service centers could be across the board and not just Toyota.

Considering all the dead battery issues in this forum us truck owners need to be asking the service center more questions on what exactly they did to troubleshoot the issue and why they replaced what they did.

Get detailed service reports of what exactly you complained about and the details of what the mechanic did to troubleshoot the issue. The standard warranty report is not detailed enough and has way too many codes in there very few can understand.

I have been through this before and NO longer accepting their standard vague responses as answers! Please don't do the same.

Have so much to say but i won't. These mechanics are part replacement specialist . They don't have have a clue. I call them chat gbt mechanics ai Youtube mechanics . The one old head at the dealer does engines only or transmissions REPLACEMENT with reman parts . Back in the day we would take something apart fix it make it better.Today they replace a part 3 days later a new problem or was it the original problem.