It took me 4 months to get my Ram back for a dropped valve. Engine replaced at 40,011 miles under lifetime warranty. Cost me $100 plus tax.The 3.0 Hurricane engine has been around for over 2 years used in the Jeep Wagoneer platform. It's 2.0L Hurricane cousin has been used since 2018.
I would not worry about the thermostat since all 2025 RAM are using the 4th revision. So far I have 5,500 miles on my SO and it's not perfect.
I'm sure GM will give you prompt service after the 6.2 drops a valve into the piston like by brother in law 2023 Tahoe did after 18,000 miles.
GM didn't even give him a new engine instead it took the dealer 3 weeks to rebuild it.
All brands do for sure. You could go over to Ferd and face lots of recalls and same with GM. Toyoda fan boys have gotten kinda quiet now that their "ecoboost" version has had serious issues.
RAM will get it figured out, then they will bring back the hemi, ha ha. We can only hope.
I agree too....So far after 2791 miles just 2 flash's updates and was done after a alignment for my lift kit installed they took care of the flash took all of 3 hours.My salesman took me to lunch while I was waiting.I have own 3 Ram 5.7L 1500 and test drove one of the 3.0L Hurricane's and almost ordered a RHO but ordered a Rebel instead and saved some cash..But I too am a believer of the 3.0L SST platform it just is no comparison in performance or towing wise too.The HO version with the 3:92 rear axle is one quick truck..I know the exhaust aftermarket will figured out a semi tone exhaust kit and will sell millions of them.But I am all for that Beger2 Tune of 100hp increase..That would make a SO go to 520hp which would be stupid fast...On Premium gas of course..
you think this surging is normalI watch a fair amount of YouTube automotive news and as @lonepeak stated above they all have problems; Toyota especially. I'm about to turn 4,000 miles on my 2025 Rebel and aside from the light throttle surging, she runs great. As far as the cold high idle, which seems excessive, it's consistent at least.
No I don't think it's normal. There's something off in the tuning under certain throttle positions I think. And I agree, it's annoying.you think this surging is normal
I am pretty certain this is transmission issues, It kind of feels like de-fueling between shifts, but is likely torque converter or clutch pack engage/disengage? Ive played around with throttle application a lot and it doesn't seem to change until you really get on the throttle.No I don't think it's normal. There's something off in the tuning under certain throttle positions I think. And I agree, it's annoying.
i agree and what makes me think its o2 sensors wot they shut off when coolant temps below 160 they are off truck run great cold and on wot. But it is consistent its like after each shift it double bucks on light throttle almost like a bad stick driver.. Only two ways to drive in town very lite throttle with traffic just push halfway down and hold let it shift near 3000 rpm . Some have this some don't but the ones that do symptoms are the same from everyone.I am pretty certain this is transmission issues, It kind of feels like de-fueling between shifts, but is likely torque converter or clutch pack engage/disengage? Ive played around with throttle application a lot and it doesn't seem to change until you really get on the throttle.
ok 12 digress this morning after 4 mins it was still idling at 1300 from 1800 for the first 3 mins . It is the trans omg shifted like poo dealer keeps saying no cel nothing broke way the truck is omg i wanna go nuts man also my transferase has blue marker writing on it sst 3.0 wtfi agree and what makes me think its o2 sensors wot they shut off when coolant temps below 160 they are off truck run great cold and on wot. But it is consistent its like after each shift it double bucks on light throttle almost like a bad stick driver.. Only two ways to drive in town very lite throttle with traffic just push halfway down and hold let it shift near 3000 rpm . Some have this some don't but the ones that do symptoms are the same from everyone.
ok 12 digress this morning after 4 mins it was still idling at 1300 from 1800 for the first 3 mins . It is the trans omg shifted like poo dealer keeps saying no cel nothing broke way the truck is omg i wanna go nuts man also my transferase has blue marker writing on it sst 3.0 wtf
I like the way you described this. That's exactly right.i agree and what makes me think its o2 sensors wot they shut off when coolant temps below 160 they are off truck run great cold and on wot. But it is consistent its like after each shift it double bucks on light throttle almost like a bad stick driver.. Only two ways to drive in town very lite throttle with traffic just push halfway down and hold let it shift near 3000 rpm . Some have this some don't but the ones that do symptoms are the same from everyone.
I like to warm up any vehicle, at any ambient temperature before driving, however I do start out with light throttle because the transmission takes longer to warm up. I get up to 55 MPH within a 1/4 mile.It’ll be ok if you drive it nicely for the first 5 miles, light driving during warm up doesn’t hurt an engine, it helps it, where people make a mistake is loading it up right after start up (warm or cold outside), I have about a 5 minute journey under 40mph before I get to a bigger road, I just accelerate gently till then.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like to warm up any vehicle, at any ambient temperature before driving, however I do start out with light throttle because the transmission takes longer to warm up. I get up to 55 MPH within a 1/4 mile.
Ya, in these 20 -30 degree mornings my gauges show trans and coolant are about 35-40 degrees at startup. Even after 2-3 minutes of idling and maybe another 2-3 of lower speed driving through the neighborhood, the trans is still below 80 degrees (coolant already over 100).Exactly, no matter what the temperature is, an automatic transmission should warm up for at least 2 minutes before driving.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk