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2020 RAM Laramie 4WD Audio System Build w/ 12" Display and JL Audio Stealthbox

FYI... I also have the bass control knob for that amp. Not sure I could live without it being that music sources and songs are all over the place with bass.

I have the subs crossed over really low at 45Hz. When I tried to use the 80Hz xover, the lower end of the mid-bass between 50-80Hz disappeared ... cancelling each other out. I thought about using an 80Hz filter on the doors and let the sub do the duties, but the doors handle it pretty well... AND that ANC noise is in that range, so I am pretty sure blocking frequencies below 80Hz would negate the ANC in that range.

Hey Sonnie,

I disconnected the sub and I didn’t notice any difference in the exhaust sound. The stealthbox and amp will arrive tomorrow and the PAC AmpPro arrives next week. What setting should I set the dip switches on the PAC AmpPro (1 & 2 switches)?
 
I flipped the first two dips down.

Thanks for confirming the exhaust/sub disconnect. I was hoping I wasn't just missing it.

Right now, my truck sounds really quiet, but I sure miss my miniDSP.
 
I posted this thread in our audio forum and will copy it here, being it is related to my RAM truck.

I keep saying that one day I am going to grow out of my car audio hobby obsession. Perhaps that will be the day you guys will be talking about me in the past tense, as I just can't shake it.

With my previous 2019 RAM Laramie 2WD there were a couple of instances where I really needed a 4WD, and the fact I kept having buyer's remorse for not getting one when I got the 2019, I finally broke down and traded in the 2019 for a 2020. I shopped around as I normally do, and the only dealer that would really step up to help me out was about 5-6 hours away, and the unit they had in stock has the new 12" display that RAM came out with in 2019. This one also happens to have the Harman Kardon system vs the Alpine system. But since I was not going to be doing anything with the factory system in the 2020...
whistling.gif
... I figured the HK system with the larger display might be okay.

I had went all out in the 2019, although I thought the Alpine system was reasonably good for a factory system. I ended up with a really nice Hybrid Audio Technologies system with a custom built MTI Acoustics sub box, and used the miniDSP to tune the system. It turned out extremely nice... 2019 RAM 1500 Laramie Crew Cab System Build Project

So I met the dealer delivery guy about half way from my home and the dealership to swap trucks and sign the paperwork. Jumped in the new 2020 and immediately started fiddling with all the various settings while sitting in the Walmart parking lot, looking upon a massively huge black cloud headed my way. After getting everything setup, I proceeded on home. As I got going, I started messing with the audio controls to try to get it sounding somewhat listenable, but no matter what I did, the SiriusXM sounded horrible. I thought surely this system can't be that bad. The bass was extremely boomy... unbearably so... to the point of having to turn the bass down to -9... the lowest setting. See my boomy bass thread here: Harman Kardon Boomy Bass

After getting home, I decided to grab my USB drive and give it a try... okay... much better than SiriusXM, but still boomy bass. After investigating in the forum here (and other places), I learned that the boomy bass was an issue. I also read about a lot of unhappy owners with the HK system. However, there were a few that really liked the system... a mixed bag of likes/dislikes. I kept reading and investigating, spoke with RAMCare, and while some were able to get their boominess fixed, I am on the latest software update and nothing else can be done for my system, as odd as that may be.

This got me thinking about maybe just putting the MTI box in the truck (since I have it already), swapping out the 5-channel amp for a single channel sub amp etc. However, I didn't want to have to run the PAC and setup the miniDSP again, and I didn't want to sacrifice the use of my rear floor storage bins, and the new rubber mats I got for the rear, as the MTI box would not fit like I wanted it to. So I started looking around and found out JL Audio makes a Stealhbox for the truck that fits very nicely and does not interfere with the storage nor the mats... it's a perfect fit. And they have an amp that has a built-in DSP using their TuN software that looks really cool and interesting. I also learned that my truck has the single voice coil sub that is NOT used in the ANC, unlike my triple voice coil sub in the 2019. So this makes it very easy to feed the JL Audio LoC-22 with the factor sub speaker leads. Problem solved for the subwoofer issue.

The question now would be how good is the rest of the Harman Kardon system. I began my normal procedure of dampening the outer door skin, the rear of the truck, quieting down as much of the noise as I could, not that the RAM trucks are not already one of the quietest rides on the market, if not the quietest. I even stuffed the sub with polyfil and dampened the enclosure. After doing all this... wow... what a completely different sounding system. I was able to turn the bass from -9 to +7 and really crank up the volume with the USB music. The mid-bass is astoundingly good. I don't want to confuse anyone... it is not as good as the HAT system with the minDSP, but it's good enough I can live with it and not have to go thru the a full overhaul (remember this statement). After removing the factory subwoofer, I learned that it really wasn't helping much on the bass end of things. The system sounds about as good with or without it... and it's still a tad on the boomy side when the sub is connected, although not nearly as bad as it was. I've actually been really enjoying listening to the system without the factory sub, and continue to be amazed at just how good the HK system sounds. Hopefully the Stealthbox will give it that extra punch in the lowest octaves once I get it installed.

New additions will be as follows...

JL Audio Stealthbox


32859




32860



JL Audio VX1000/1i Amp


32861



JL Audio LoC-22 Integration Mudule


32862



JL Audio DRC-205 Control Knob


32863



Here's what I've done thus far...

I did not take pics of the doors... it looks pretty much the same as what I did in my previous install (and about like any other pics you see of dampening material on doors). I did go a step farther and remove the inner door panel so that I could get more dampening on the outer skin. I also used a thicker foam between the door panel and door. In the back, I build a box to go over the vents and used open cell foam for filtering the dust that seems to creep in so easily thru those vents, and the open cell is in front of closed cell to help trap some of the air noise. I'm not hearing a peep out of the back now... it is eerily quiet in this truck now.

Here you can see the rear vent boxes I fabricated, and some of the dampening material... and the 1/2" thick closed cell foam that I lined the back wall and the back of the rear wall panel with. I believe this helps the overall system sound by eliminating exterior noise, by dampening panels that can create noise from being vibrated, and by padding various items in the truck from vibrating due to bass. The green foam is the open cell filter, similar to what you would use on an air filter for a lawn mower, etc. The black foam is closed cell foam used in acoustic treatment.


32865




32866



I covered the opening where the factory subwoofer was located... added extra closed cell foam in that area behind the panel as well. Basically just trying to prevent any noise from coming thru that opening.


32867



I have already installed the DRC-205 control knob... and this required using my Dremel tool to cut out some plastic behind the panel, as this knob box requires a 1 inch square area behind the panel. I tried to find a suitable location and looked all over the place... this just seems to be the right spot since there was a blank panel space there just begging for something to go there.


32868




At this point, I am now waiting on the Stealthbox, VXi amp and LoC-22. When I get those in hand and installed, I'll post more pics and give my thoughts on the sound.

UPDATE: 7/15/2020

So remember that statement I made early on, "it's good enough I can live with it and not have to go thru the a full overhaul". This is something you should NEVER say! If it were TRUE, I would not have ordered another JL amp (6-channel) and another miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (after selling the other one I had just a week or so ago). The problem (other than I just can't shake the bug) is the front stage. I can't get it up high enough with the door speakers playing frequencies that are pulling it down, and the imaging is just not sufficient with the center speaker being used. It's moving around on me too much. It's really difficult to have a JBL MS-8 processor for several years (I think I still have two of them in my shop) ... then a miniDSP, which is even better than the MS-8, and try to be satisfied with less. I'm already half way there with the Stealthbox installed, so why not take the next step and go all the way with it.
justdontknow.gif


Sonnie what are the vents used for along the back wall? I did some sound deadening last night and this morning, then took it for a drive without the rear seats and I could heard exhaust noise coming through them. Do they serve some kind of purpose or can I just put some foam over them?
 
Sonnie what are the vents used for along the back wall? I did some sound deadening last night and this morning, then took it for a drive without the rear seats and I could heard exhaust noise coming through them. Do they serve some kind of purpose or can I just put some foam over them?
Yes... you need them to release pressure in the cab. If you cover them like I did, you won't notice any noise coming thru them.
 
Looking for some guidance; the goal is to upgrade the full front stage of my 8.4" alpine system. I don't care for rear fill, and would like to retain factory amplifier to power the rear speaker + ANC if possible.

Currently in production or in the mail:
PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41
(2) Image Dynamics IDQ8
(3) Faital Pro XFE2522
(TBD) Some kind of 6x9 for the doors, or use my old Hertz HV165 with a 6x9 to 6.5" adapter (6.5 mids from the HSK165 line.. I don't know where my xover or tweeters are anymore)
Image Dynamics i5800 (2x180 bridged to power fronts, 1x400 for the subs)
Frostbite enclosure
36sq fit 80mil sound deadener, probably mostly for rear seat area and front doors

The subwoofers are straight forward. What I am trying to figure out is how do I go about powering the fronts while still using the factory amp to power the rear doors + rear overhead.

I THINK I need the PAC aph-ch01 harness to simplify the connections, but I'd imagine connecting this harness would disconnect ALL speakers, and thus requiring ALL speakers to be aftermarket amplified. Unless I am mistaken, and the harness is actually a "T" harness, where I can just tap into the speaker's where needed. Is anyone able to advise before I purchase the aph-ch01 harness?
My assumption is that the alternative is cut and tap into the front speakers at the stock amp, or to run new wires to the doors. Thanks in advance!
 
It's going to be difficult to upgrade your front stage and retain ANC, as ANC need front and rear door speakers at the approximate impedance and sensitivity to function properly. Once you replace the front speakers and power them with an aftermarket amp, you lose ANC. It's not bad (for me anyway), but it's noticeable.

You can't tap into any of the speakers leads after the amp and use those, because it will amplify the ANC, and cause issues.

You can use the outputs of the PAC AmpPro to power the fronts and it will retain the rear speakers using your fader on the factory head unit, but again, you lose the ANC by powering the fronts.
 
It's going to be difficult to upgrade your front stage and retain ANC, as ANC need front and rear door speakers at the approximate impedance and sensitivity to function properly. Once you replace the front speakers and power them with an aftermarket amp, you lose ANC. It's not bad (for me anyway), but it's noticeable.

You can't tap into any of the speakers leads after the amp and use those, because it will amplify the ANC, and cause issues.

You can use the outputs of the PAC AmpPro to power the fronts and it will retain the rear speakers using your fader on the factory head unit, but again, you lose the ANC by powering the fronts.

I was afraid of that. It seems like it may be more trouble than it is worth on a work truck, unless I go all out.

so, if were to bypass anc, then I can stock-amp the rears and aftermarket (bridge my amp) to power the fronts? Would I still need the aph-ch01
 
Sure you can power the fronts with any amp... all you need is the AmpPRO to feed the aftermarket amp... it's an RCA output from the AmpPRO to the aftermarket amp ... no reason to use the APH-CH01.
 
Before I pull my door panel and measure it in the rain can anyone tell me what is the max depth for a front door 6x9? I think I want to run the infinity kappa 90 csx but think they may be too deep.

Edit: I found it. In another thread someone posted ...
Depth to the window is about 3 3/4", you can use a spacer in the front if you need more than that, there's at least 1/4 to 3/8 on the front side.
 
Last edited:
I don't know the measurement, but I can confirm the CDT at 2.87" will fit... and the HAT Unity at 2.95" will fit.
 
So... now I have 3 FaitalPRO speakers for sale... tab already removed on the side that goes to the window for the left and right corners. $85 shipped.

View attachment 62748

along with a pair of CDT 6x9 speakers as well... no pic right now, but the look brand new... $85 shipped.

I also installed these Unity 6x9's in the front doors today. Had to cut out about 1/8" all the way around... same as in my previous RAM. Easily done with a small drum sander in a Dremel.

View attachment 62749

Then I added a bead of raw butyl rubber to seal it good...
View attachment 62750

Then I dampened the enclosure to give it some more rigidity and prevent the plastic housing from vibrating as much as possible.
View attachment 62751

Still waiting on the miniDSP. Got all the speaker wires connected and run to the back, along with breakers and fuses changed out/added, etc.

Hoping to get the amp installed tomorrow, and everything hooked up, with the exception of the miniDSP, as it may be a couple more days before I see it.

Why 6x9's in the door... why not use 6.5" speakers? Here's why... these doors are designed better for 6x9 speakers, and a 6x9 oval speaker is equivalent to an 8" round speaker. The 6x9 will produce more bass than a 6.5". Yes, I'm using a subwoofer, however, I want as much bass up front as possible, and I'd like to crossover my door speakers at 60Hz, not the traditional 80Hz, and it would be difficult to find a shallow mount 6.5" with the Fs parameter that the 6x9 has, which will enable a cleaner response down to 60Hz. The subwoofer is only going to handle up to 45Hz, although with the boost in SPL on the sub, it will be more like 60Hz. Bottomline... in my opinion and in my experience, a 6.5" speaker isn't going to sound as good as a 6x9. The 6x9 is going to be superior in many ways, most importantly to assist in getting the bass more up front where it should be.
Do you still have the 3 FaitalPRO speakers for sale? What model are they?
 
Measured from my iPhone 11 Pro in MLP. Not sure how accurate, but the graph seems pretty telling to what my ears hear. When I measured my home theater system with Audyssey set to reference, the graph looked excellent. The changes I make with the EQ in the truck immediately reflect in follow-up tests on this graph as well.

Stock
View attachment 60549

Infinity (Dash) & PAC/Kicker amp hooked to stock subwoofer - Bass +5, Mids +4, Treble +1
View attachment 60550


FaitalPRO (Dash) & PAC/Kicker/stock sub, now with Poly-Fil, butyl rubber behind the box, & acoustic foam along rear wall - Bass +5
View attachment 60551
Kinda looks like the Poly-Fil reduced the sub’s output below 30 Hz.
Is this an app for the iPhone? Could you please share more info? I would really like to take some measurements without having to buy umik mic and rew software.
 
I will be adding an aftermarket subwoofer/amplifier into my HK system this weekend. I have the PAC Amp Pro and also purchased the APH-CH03 harness. The only question I have is do I have to run a remote wire to the aftermarket sub?
 
I will be adding an aftermarket subwoofer/amplifier into my HK system this weekend. I have the PAC Amp Pro and also purchased the APH-CH03 harness. The only question I have is do I have to run a remote wire to the aftermarket sub?
The Amp Pro has a remote turn on wire, and yes you will need to run it to the amp
 
Sorry, another question…do I need to unplug my stock HK subwoofer?
 
FaitalPRO where can I buy these speakers. I want drop in factory replacements for the dash and maybe later the doors . I have no subs in the back or anything like that . I just want a little cleaner sound .Want to start with the dash and then do the doors later if needed .
 
I posted this thread in our audio forum and will copy it here, being it is related to my RAM truck.

I keep saying that one day I am going to grow out of my car audio hobby obsession. Perhaps that will be the day you guys will be talking about me in the past tense, as I just can't shake it.

With my previous 2019 RAM Laramie 2WD there were a couple of instances where I really needed a 4WD, and the fact I kept having buyer's remorse for not getting one when I got the 2019, I finally broke down and traded in the 2019 for a 2020. I shopped around as I normally do, and the only dealer that would really step up to help me out was about 5-6 hours away, and the unit they had in stock has the new 12" display that RAM came out with in 2019. This one also happens to have the Harman Kardon system vs the Alpine system. But since I was not going to be doing anything with the factory system in the 2020...
whistling.gif
... I figured the HK system with the larger display might be okay.

I had went all out in the 2019, although I thought the Alpine system was reasonably good for a factory system. I ended up with a really nice Hybrid Audio Technologies system with a custom built MTI Acoustics sub box, and used the miniDSP to tune the system. It turned out extremely nice... 2019 RAM 1500 Laramie Crew Cab System Build Project

So I met the dealer delivery guy about half way from my home and the dealership to swap trucks and sign the paperwork. Jumped in the new 2020 and immediately started fiddling with all the various settings while sitting in the Walmart parking lot, looking upon a massively huge black cloud headed my way. After getting everything setup, I proceeded on home. As I got going, I started messing with the audio controls to try to get it sounding somewhat listenable, but no matter what I did, the SiriusXM sounded horrible. I thought surely this system can't be that bad. The bass was extremely boomy... unbearably so... to the point of having to turn the bass down to -9... the lowest setting. See my boomy bass thread here: Harman Kardon Boomy Bass

After getting home, I decided to grab my USB drive and give it a try... okay... much better than SiriusXM, but still boomy bass. After investigating in the forum here (and other places), I learned that the boomy bass was an issue. I also read about a lot of unhappy owners with the HK system. However, there were a few that really liked the system... a mixed bag of likes/dislikes. I kept reading and investigating, spoke with RAMCare, and while some were able to get their boominess fixed, I am on the latest software update and nothing else can be done for my system, as odd as that may be.

This got me thinking about maybe just putting the MTI box in the truck (since I have it already), swapping out the 5-channel amp for a single channel sub amp etc. However, I didn't want to have to run the PAC and setup the miniDSP again, and I didn't want to sacrifice the use of my rear floor storage bins, and the new rubber mats I got for the rear, as the MTI box would not fit like I wanted it to. So I started looking around and found out JL Audio makes a Stealhbox for the truck that fits very nicely and does not interfere with the storage nor the mats... it's a perfect fit. And they have an amp that has a built-in DSP using their TuN software that looks really cool and interesting. I also learned that my truck has the single voice coil sub that is NOT used in the ANC, unlike my triple voice coil sub in the 2019. So this makes it very easy to feed the JL Audio LoC-22 with the factor sub speaker leads. Problem solved for the subwoofer issue.

The question now would be how good is the rest of the Harman Kardon system. I began my normal procedure of dampening the outer door skin, the rear of the truck, quieting down as much of the noise as I could, not that the RAM trucks are not already one of the quietest rides on the market, if not the quietest. I even stuffed the sub with polyfil and dampened the enclosure. After doing all this... wow... what a completely different sounding system. I was able to turn the bass from -9 to +7 and really crank up the volume with the USB music. The mid-bass is astoundingly good. I don't want to confuse anyone... it is not as good as the HAT system with the minDSP, but it's good enough I can live with it and not have to go thru the a full overhaul (remember this statement). After removing the factory subwoofer, I learned that it really wasn't helping much on the bass end of things. The system sounds about as good with or without it... and it's still a tad on the boomy side when the sub is connected, although not nearly as bad as it was. I've actually been really enjoying listening to the system without the factory sub, and continue to be amazed at just how good the HK system sounds. Hopefully the Stealthbox will give it that extra punch in the lowest octaves once I get it installed.

New additions will be as follows...

JL Audio Stealthbox


32859




32860



JL Audio VX1000/1i Amp


32861



JL Audio LoC-22 Integration Mudule


32862



JL Audio DRC-205 Control Knob


32863



Here's what I've done thus far...

I did not take pics of the doors... it looks pretty much the same as what I did in my previous install (and about like any other pics you see of dampening material on doors). I did go a step farther and remove the inner door panel so that I could get more dampening on the outer skin. I also used a thicker foam between the door panel and door. In the back, I build a box to go over the vents and used open cell foam for filtering the dust that seems to creep in so easily thru those vents, and the open cell is in front of closed cell to help trap some of the air noise. I'm not hearing a peep out of the back now... it is eerily quiet in this truck now.

Here you can see the rear vent boxes I fabricated, and some of the dampening material... and the 1/2" thick closed cell foam that I lined the back wall and the back of the rear wall panel with. I believe this helps the overall system sound by eliminating exterior noise, by dampening panels that can create noise from being vibrated, and by padding various items in the truck from vibrating due to bass. The green foam is the open cell filter, similar to what you would use on an air filter for a lawn mower, etc. The black foam is closed cell foam used in acoustic treatment.


32865




32866



I covered the opening where the factory subwoofer was located... added extra closed cell foam in that area behind the panel as well. Basically just trying to prevent any noise from coming thru that opening.


32867



I have already installed the DRC-205 control knob... and this required using my Dremel tool to cut out some plastic behind the panel, as this knob box requires a 1 inch square area behind the panel. I tried to find a suitable location and looked all over the place... this just seems to be the right spot since there was a blank panel space there just begging for something to go there.


32868




At this point, I am now waiting on the Stealthbox, VXi amp and LoC-22. When I get those in hand and installed, I'll post more pics and give my thoughts on the sound.

UPDATE: 7/15/2020

So remember that statement I made early on, "it's good enough I can live with it and not have to go thru the a full overhaul". This is something you should NEVER say! If it were TRUE, I would not have ordered another JL amp (6-channel) and another miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL (after selling the other one I had just a week or so ago). The problem (other than I just can't shake the bug) is the front stage. I can't get it up high enough with the door speakers playing frequencies that are pulling it down, and the imaging is just not sufficient with the center speaker being used. It's moving around on me too much. It's really difficult to have a JBL MS-8 processor for several years (I think I still have two of them in my shop) ... then a miniDSP, which is even better than the MS-8, and try to be satisfied with less. I'm already half way there with the Stealthbox installed, so why not take the next step and go all the way with it.
justdontknow.gif
Quick question from a soon to be new Ram Owner, I too am thinking about getting the Stealthbox and an external Amp, By doing this will I void any factory warranties or if I get the MOPAR Protection Plan
 
@Sonnie I have been reading all your posts about upgrades to the HK system and want to thank you it was very helpful! I currently have all the 3.5's replaced with CDT unity drivers and CDT 6x9's with dual JL 10's. Like you I fell down the rabbit hole and just ordered a dsp and amp to power the speakers properly. My question is what route did you go on the upper door speakers? I can pull them out and run a 4 channel setup for the front doors/dash or use a passive crossover on them and tie them into the door. Kinda thinking less is more when trying to bring the soundstage up. Opinions/experiences?
 

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